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ACTman

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Geoarch

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There are a few variables, but from our testing, the clutch doesn't give you much in reserve, as with most vehicles with self-adjusting pressure plates, only a bit worse on the Jeeps. For a full explanation, see the following thread, especially post #19.
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/jt-jl-clutch-and-flywheel-explained-by-act.68758/
I installed the JP6 clutch in my JTR, and it acts like a clutch, not catching near the top, and a very solid feel. I wouldn't go back. I went into the dealer for the shift sensor recall the other day, and they were glad to hear I installed the ACT system. There is a JT that has been sitting on the lot there for a year with a hole in the bell housing from the clutch coming apart at speed.
 

ACTman

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I installed the JP6 clutch in my JTR, and it acts like a clutch, not catching near the top, and a very solid feel. I wouldn't go back. I went into the dealer for the shift sensor recall the other day, and they were glad to hear I installed the ACT system. There is a JT that has been sitting on the lot there for a year with a hole in the bell housing from the clutch coming apart at speed.
Thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
 

seven30

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If this were true, there would be burnt clutches in every make and model still sold with a manual. You really think the only car a young dumb kid would want to show off in would be a truck? Not a Mustang, Camaro, or Challenger? Not Caymans or 911s? No Miatas? No M's be they 2, 3, or 4? No WRXs or Supras?

I believe that this clutch assembly is more punishing for mistakes and poor driving habits than a more traditional setup, but as far as outright abuse goes, i'd be absolutely amazed if Gladiators and Wranglers held the title of most abused clutch. That award has got to go to the Mustang, Camaro, Challenger trio, and they don't have open clutch recalls.
I have the 6spd with 72K. I lost a cam before the clutch. But, I will say when new managing the clutch was tough for the following reasons:
1) two plate design was mushy as heck for about 2k miles
2)No low end grunt with the 3.6
3)Dual mass flywheel makes stalling even more likely
4)Heavy vehicle
5) Quiet engine

This was the most touchy clutch Ive ever dealt with. Worse than my 7inch solid center 4puck floater. But after 4k of being nice to the clutch its "broke in" and become quite pleasant.
No more stink even backing a trailer uphill and good control. Plus light pedal.
 

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I have the 6spd with 72K. I lost a cam before the clutch. But, I will say when new managing the clutch was tough for the following reasons:
1) two plate design was mushy as heck for about 2k miles
2)No low end grunt with the 3.6
3)Dual mass flywheel makes stalling even more likely
4)Heavy vehicle
5) Quiet engine

This was the most touchy clutch Ive ever dealt with. Worse than my 7inch solid center 4puck floater. But after 4k of being nice to the clutch its "broke in" and become quite pleasant.
No more stink even backing a trailer uphill and good control. Plus light pedal.
i had a couple stalls and a couple almost stalls in the first 2k miles before i shut hill asssit off, then no issues from there out. It felt like the hill assist was a little too grabby and turning it off felt SO much better.

as for the quiet engine, i chopped out my suitcase muffler to solve that.
 

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seven30

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i had a couple stalls and a couple almost stalls in the first 2k miles before i shut hill asssit off, then no issues from there out. It felt like the hill assist was a little too grabby and turning it off felt SO much better.

as for the quiet engine, i chopped out my suitcase muffler to solve that.
Interesting on hill assist. Will check that out.
 

81Mojave

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I think I would like to remove the suitcase muffler too, you guys are right on that the lack of exhaust note make driving it harder!
 

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I think I would like to remove the suitcase muffler too, you guys are right on that the lack of exhaust note make driving it harder!
After removing that muffler (and adding a Flowmaster snorkel), I stalled much less and other drivers liked it more. Could be the sound, but I think the negligible amount of power and engine restriction helped it out. Just my experience.
 

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I got tired of waiting on jeep to do the right thing and install a proper clutch for the recall. I decided to go and get the Mcleod super trail pro kit installed and picked it up today. This was the way the Gladiator should of came from the factory smooth but firm clutch with feedback from the hydraulic throwout bearing in the pedal when the clutch catches. Best upgrade by far.

Now to fight with jeep to get reimbursement. Probably wont get a dime but have to at least try.
 

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I got tired of waiting on jeep to do the right thing and install a proper clutch for the recall. I decided to go and get the Mcleod super trail pro kit installed and picked it up today. This was the way the Gladiator should of came from the factory smooth but firm clutch with feedback from the hydraulic throwout bearing in the pedal when the clutch catches. Best upgrade by far.

Now to fight with jeep to get reimbursement. Probably wont get a dime but have to at least try.
Was unaware McLeod was now making some products for the JT. Interested to know if there is any utility in their $350 throw out bearing over the factory plastic jobby. Anyone have any experience?

@ACTman , what say you?
 

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ACTman

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Was unaware McLeod was now making some products for the JT. Interested to know if there is any utility in their $350 throw out bearing over the factory plastic jobby. Anyone have any experience?

@ACTman , what say you?
I haven't seen many issues with the stock bearing/arm arrangement. In theory, I don't have an issue with running a concentric slave cylinder IF it is super reliable, and set up correctly for the vehicle and clutch, since once it fails, you have to drop the transmission to get to it. Remember, the main purpose for changing the hydraulics, whether is it from McLeod or Centerforce is to resolve the problem their clutches pose of requiring more travel to operate than the stock clutch.

I can't say I am a fan of the McLeod design. It will however make the pedal stiffer, which wouldn't be a bad thing for the stock clutch. Potentially it could over-travel and damage the stock pressure plate, but I would to test to see if that is really a concern. Set up height for the McLeod concentric slave TOB will have to change from how they set it up with their clutch, since I know their JL/JT clutch is shorter than the factory parts.
 

brandc12000

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I haven't seen many issues with the stock bearing/arm arrangement. In theory, I don't have an issue with running a concentric slave cylinder IF it is super reliable, and set up correctly for the vehicle and clutch, since once it fails, you have to drop the transmission to get to it. Remember, the main purpose for changing the hydraulics, whether is it from McLeod or Centerforce is to resolve the problem their clutches pose of requiring more travel to operate than the stock clutch.

I can't say I am a fan of the McLeod design. It will however make the pedal stiffer, which wouldn't be a bad thing for the stock clutch. Potentially it could over-travel and damage the stock pressure plate, but I would to test to see if that is really a concern. Set up height for the McLeod concentric slave TOB will have to change from how they set it up with their clutch, since I know their JL/JT clutch is shorter than the factory parts.
I can tell you that the factory throwout bearing was waisted and close to failing when we pulled it out and looked at it. I only had 35000 miles on the jeep.
 

Jason_92586

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Got the truck back today with the Centerforce dual friction clutch/flywheel and hydraulics installed. Apart from the fact that the dealership fleeced me on the labor, everything so far is great. I drove the truck for about 40 miles (both city start/stop and highway). The dual friction feels heavy, but not overly so, and has none of the vagueness of the stock clutch. The effect of the heavier flywheel is also clearly there - truck does not stall when going uphill on 1st or 2nd gear without throttle. The stock clutch could never manage to do that. So far, I am quite happy with the centerforce kit - I imagine it will make off-road driving much better too.

I will be submitting for reimbursement to FCA Would be good to get back some of my $3K that this ordeal has cost me. I have kept the stock parts and if anyone is interested I will post photos. I am not an expert mechanic, but I am not a newbie MT driver either. I put 200K miles on my 2000 nissan frontier and never needed to replace the clutch, and never felt it slip even when towing, and so I am quite certain it is not my style of driving that caused any of this. Given my experience, I'd advice anyone who felt the stock clutch slip even a little, to check for heating and if they notice that to replace with a solid aftermarket part ASAP. Your safety is not worth waiting for whatever haphazard solution FCA is bound to come up with. They already showed how much they really care with the "software" update fix - I don't have much faith that they will come up with a robust/safe solution this time around.

Thanks to StevenInOrlando and especially to BrianKay for the advice. I am crossing my fingers that the the techs bled the clutch correctly so that I will have no more problems.
can you state exact CF clutch you bought, thank you
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