Dilly's Willy Build/Log

[LouisvEarlleJT]

Just got the JT back from the dealer who did warranty work for the previous owner, new paint should look good in the snow with this storm coming in. And I bet you've never seen a JT next to an igloo!

They had me in a 2024/25 Renegade Limited with the 1.3T and it was okay...had it for almost 2 weeks. Has a 9 speed auto and on demand 4x4 (awd), but the Fiat engine only made peak power between 3k-4.5k and after 1/2 throttle input you don't get anything else. I also NEVER saw it hit 8/9th gears even going downhill at any speed.

It DID have the 8.4" screen which was nice. Does anyone know if you can swap the 8.4" from other models without issues? Specifically to 7"/non-alpine vehicles? The connectors should be the same, and I have access to these units from all model jeeps that were offered and the price is too good to beat.

yep you can, plug & play if you get an “unlocked” version, otherwise you need a dealer to make the vehicle recognize it (or maybe use a tazer?).

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[Dilly’S Willy]

yep you can, plug & play if you get an “unlocked” version, otherwise you need a dealer to make the vehicle recognize it (or maybe use a tazer?).

What do you mean "unlocked"? I have the vin to get the code if needed from Mopar too. I thought I read that they just pair after a few sleep cycles...

 

[LouisvEarlleJT]

What do you mean "unlocked"? I have the vin to get the code if needed from Mopar too. I thought I read that they just pair after a few sleep cycles...

I may be wrong, but I think the radios are paired to a specific VIN. They can be unpaired (I.e. unlocked) but a lot of the take-offs that you find for sale are still paired to a specific vin so if you just hook it up and go it won’t work. I think it’s an anti-theft measure or something. @ShadowsPapa can probably give a good write up on it

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

Built a small igloo with a shovel a last weekend, decided to drive the JT through the snow for fun, not remembering the tree buried underneath. Just added more fun to the mix. I have some video but need to edit it, here's a pic until then:

You can sleep two people or one and a large dog with the heater inside, it was about 4* the other day and about 45-50* inside.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

Went out to start the JT and it was DEAD. No nothing, just the needles tweaking backwards. Tested voltage and was 3.5v. Got it jumped and had the Auto Start-Stop warning. Ran the truck down the road and back and it starts right up. We will see if the AUX battery is dead again in the morning. Drove fine yesterday with no warnings.

I'm pretty sure the AUX battery is either going or gone. Guess it's time to delete it, unless my aftermarket warranty covers it. Will be calling tomorrow to find out. I hope they don't cause drama down the road if I do end up deleting it.

Not bad for two 5 year old OEM batteries in the north. The main battery seems fine, but I know the AUX battery will kill it if I don't do something soon.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

Update:

Warranty does NOT cover batteries. Whatever, the AUX battery isn't really worth dealing with. I'll just delete it and remove the cables/fuse for safety and cleaner wiring on later projects.

We're going on 3 days now and I haven't had another AUX battery related issue, yet. The light even went off after reconnecting the AUX battery ground to the Main battery ground terminal from testing. Time will tell.

 

[NC_Overland]

The manual tranny isn't a bad design, Aisin makes great transmissions. Poor driving habits/poor gearing selection don't help. The biggest complaint I've noticed about these gearboxes can be summed into one issue: GEARING.
- It's designed to compromise street driving (mostly emissions) and off-road performance for 4L range. Thus the "4 speed with double overdrive" feeling almost EVERYONE talks about. Now factor in the Rubicon 4L t-case ratios and you'll understand why they did what they did to the gearing.

As for shifting the powerband vs rpm use, I don't mind revving out, my 2.17L stroker revs to 7200 (and 8500 down the road), the 4.2L Vortec I6 revved to 7250 stock, my ez30r revved to 7100. I just want to add more power between 2000-4000 and a turbo sized correctly will allow just that, and some more everywhere else. I'm not looking for crazy power, 400whp is plenty for a daily, especially when that power hits before 3k and holds to 6k. Also usable torque is what people enjoy, look at the diesel bois loving their 400+ft/lb below 2k. Sometimes, but not always, the math maths. Perks of designing race vehicles for a hobby I guess.


Mild fact-based rant:

Also let's be honest, the BIGGEST reason people went with the automatic is simple: CONVENIENCE. It's a sad, but true fact. When I sold vehicles at dealerships I would ask my customers if they wanted a manual transmission and here's the most common response (verbatim): "Why would I want that? I just want to get in, listen to music, and get where I'm going with the least effort possible." If I asked if their trade was automatic or a manual transmission: "Pretty sure it's manual, you can shift it yourself, wait, what? No there's only a gas and brake pedal. Oh that's an automatic? Well I never really use the manual mode anyways." This was for any vehicle type: 1500s, Tacos, Vettes. Rarely do you encounter a buyer than actually wants a manual transmission, unless they know exactly what they want.
- Combine that with an industry that not only is required to meet absurd US/EU emissions, but also has a dying market demand, and now you know why only Toyota makes more models that offer a manual transmission than any other brand today. Heck they're even toying with a gearbox/EV concept for the next gen AE86. Meanwhile Subaru, BMW, etc are all pushing for DCT/cvt autos and/or EV.

I didn’t buy a manual because the towing capacity sucks. I tow over that limit pretty regularly. My JKU Rubicon was a manual. The tow rating sucked regardless. That actually wasn’t a very good manual transmission. Mercedes builds way better automatics.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

I've updated the initial post regarding future mods and details, mostly related to electrical mods and their priority.

Originally I planned on using a 12" Kicker L7T, but the 12" doesn't fit in a down-firing position without the enclosure bumping out past the rear seat bottom (impeding floor space/feet) or requiring modifications to the seats/removing the seats and/or storage tray. Since the L7T are a square design, they have roughly 15-20% more cone area, which is why I wanted a 12". But a 10" with the added cone area is closer to a 12" round sub then a 10" round sub, thus hitting deeper, louder, and harder than a similarly spec'd 10" round sub too. The smaller specs for the 10" mean the custom enclosure can stay the same size and the sub will perform better as it requires less cu/ft than the 12" would have. Since the enclosure will be sealed (better SQL, aka quality) the reduced internal cu/ft requirements will be appreciated and allow it to play louder than a 12" in the same size sealed enclosure.

I also originally planned on using 3 amps (a Rockford 2ch, a Pioneer 4ch, and an AudioControl 1ch) since the front stage would have to be wired down to 2 ohms vs the rear staying at 4 ohms with a 4 channel amp. This is due to the dash speakers having a 8ohm impedance being wired in parallel with the 8 ohm knee speakers, which total 4 ohms. The soundbar is wired the same way, but I'm only using 1 set at 4 ohms to replace the 2 sets at 4 ohm. This is not something most speaker amps can do: use different impedances per channel on one amp at the same time, you generally must have all channels at either 2 OR 4 ohms, not 2 AND 4 ohms.

I called Kicker today and they informed me the LX1300.7 (yes 7 channel) has 4 separate internal amps, which means the dash speakers can be on amp 3 (lower rms output than amp 1 or 2), the knee speakers can be on amp 1, and soundbar speakers on amp 2 while the sub has its own internal amp. Or you can mix and match 2 ohm on one amp and 4 ohm on another amp at the same time, so it's extremely versatile. Also amps 1/2/3 all have separate HPF/LPF settings, and the sub amp has subsonic (HPF) and other standard filters too. There's more about it that really useful for our trucks that I can get into when I order it.

Basically the LX1300.7 costs about the same as all three of the other amps I was going to use to achieve a similar result, and takes us less then 1/2 the space not to mention less wires, fuses, etc. combine that with all the features and a 3 year warranty, it's a no brainer for doors/top off jamming!

As for other changes, I plan on adding a second battery under the bed with an isolator so I can run the inverter and air system from a separate source than the truck and audio system. I doubt there's room for a standard auto or marine style battery under the bed, but I can always use a thin/shallow battery design if needed. This is to help balance weight and keep the CG (Center of Gravity) low while not losing bed or interior cargo space. Same with the inverter and air system, I want to keep as much interior cargo space as I can for trips/daily needs while also maintaining the Trail Rating (water fording and ground clearance), so mounting everything in empty spaces is crucial. The air system will also have a storage tank to the compressor(s) don't have to be running to fill the whole time.

I actually contemplated using a battery management system (BMS) to power the audio system after I add the second battery, both as a way to ensure I won't kill the main battery (say out camping or on the trails with the engine off) but also to use the secondary as a jump battery if the main ever does happen to get low. That way the second battery can stay charged, isolated, and/or power the audio for extended periods without risk.

- If anyone wants to know more about the inverter/air system/battery system being mounted under the bed while maintaining the Trail Rating, let me know and I'll break it down with details how to make it work.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

Recovery story:

Yesterday morning I was woken up to being needed when my grandmother fell walking to her car heading to work. No biggie. We got maybe 4" of snow but then wind was creating drifts over 3' high in places (I have video) so I told her I'd follow her to the main road, since our town is lazy AF about DOT things in general. I had mentioned "if you get stuck or slide off the road, try to relax and call me before you call AAA".

I took the long way back home (how I found the massive snow drifts) and hadn't even made it home yet, about 20 minutes later I get a call..."I'm stuck, idk what happened but I slid into the ditch". Great, but it's fine...we will go check it out and assess from there. I have my grandfather get dressed in case I need a second set of hands, and another 4x4 vehicle if needed (z71 Colorado).

I generally keep a snatch strap and 3/4" d-ring shackle in the JT for these exact reasons (and some people will donate for helping), and plan to get a few more items down the road since I'd like to do more challenging trails once I get the mods I need.

So we get there and she's not kidding about the ditch, the whole car is leaning about 50* to the right and high centered in the snow (I have video I'm working on uploading). Good thing I brought a shovel! So I'm digging around the front, the bumper, and a path since we're in 3-5' of snow in the ditch, and I pull some out from under the front too and clear the exhaust. Popped the bumper cover, screwed in the tow hook, threaded the 3/4" shackle with the snatch strap and hooked to the rear hook on the JT. I had all 3 of us on a 3 way call, with a headphone in 1 ear, advising what to expect/do (TC off, ESC off, 1500rpm in drive, wheels turned towards road, pop into neutral when on road). Popped the JT in 4L and 1st gear (manual ftw) and with a high idle, about 1300rpm, I just let took up about 5' of slack until the jolt, then kept going forward.

I was IMPRESSED to say the least! 1 small jolt and it just pulled her Equinox right out of the 5' deep ditch. No struggles, no wheel slip even in 8" of snow, tires chilling around 34/35psi (it was -7*F).

I will post the video another time, and post in the "what did you do WITH your gladiator" thread. I'll also link the recovery tools used.

Snatch strap: Badlands 10k lbs / 3"x30' Snatch Strap
D-ring shackle: Badlands 9500lbs 3/4" D-Ring Shackle, Black (red also offered)

EDIT: here's the video

EDIT 2: Guess I should install the rear view camera, it's just so cold out (-2 atm). I do have plans for an external rear view camera.



TLDR: Early start to the morning, helping family in snow, family got stuck driving and slid into 5' ditch. Went and pulled them out with little effort. JTW putting in easy work!

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

I think my brake pads are on the way out at 42k miles. Recently when I stop and park I smell a burning scent, similar to brakes or clutch. I doubt its the clutch because I tried climbing a boulder in 4L last year and never got a burnt clutch smell or a notification about overheating it. But maybe a week ago or so I heard what sounded like the rear brakes dragging/scraping at lower speeds near a wall when driving by...weirdly enough, the sound hasn't come back since.

The pedal does have about 1" of freeplay before biting at all on the first press, then bites immediately when pressed again shortly after. It's been this mostly way since I got the truck in August last year at 27k miles they put new front pads/rotors on it, which I thought was weird...until my conversation at a dealer a month ago when the GM told me "FYI I've noticed the brakes on the gladiators to not have long life, particularly the front brakes. We seem to go through front brakes about every 20-25k miles, and you mentioned this was your first jeep so I wanted you to be aware". But recently it's almost like the freeplay has increased, leading me to believe the pads in the rear are low. I keep forgetting to check brake fluid level to confirm (unless it was topped off during new front brakes when they sold it).

How accurate is this?

I'm used to replacing pads every 20-25k miles, but that's due to a combination of my other vehicles being race oriented and driven as such: 2001 WRX (bored/stroked, 500hp ready), 2017 zx6r, 2022 zx10r, 2025 450 (Supermoto).

I can be fine with pads every 20-25k miles on the JT, I don't baby it or drive like an old fart. I do try to engine brake on hills vs just brakes, I don't currently tow/haul more than myself/dog (dirtbikes on occasion), and maybe off-road 1-3x per month if I'm lucky right now. Stock everything, are the MTs really that hard on the brakes?

I've had thoughts about possible air in the lines since there's about 1" of pedal play on the first press (seems not uncommon sadly in shops these days when doing brakes), but the second pedal press removes this suspicion (unless the abs pump compensates) as the pedal becomes instantly firm at the top.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

Update on brakes:

Had the tires rotated the other day, brake pads were 8mm all around. The noise has gone away, but I still think there may be air in the system, unless it's normal for the JTs to need the pedal pressed a second time to get a firmer/quicker bite? They definitely still stop fine.

Anyone else have an initially soft brake pedal until the second press?

 

[ChrisNLA]

Update:

Warranty does NOT cover batteries. Whatever, the AUX battery isn't really worth dealing with. I'll just delete it and remove the cables/fuse for safety and cleaner wiring on later projects.

It does under the 3/36K, but you have to leave your vehicle for the batteries to get tested, etc.

The battery died in my JK around 2018 (Jeep was only two years old) and after I found it was gonna be a giant hassle just to get it warrantied I took my other car to Oreillys and bought an AGM and dealt with it myself

I'm about 3.5 years into the batteries on my truck. So far, so good

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

It does under the 3/36K, but you have to leave your vehicle for the batteries to get tested, etc.

The battery died in my JK around 2018 (Jeep was only two years old) and after I found it was gonna be a giant hassle just to get it warrantied I took my other car to Oreillys and bought an AGM and dealt with it myself

I'm about 3.5 years into the batteries on my truck. So far, so good

Do you ever maintain with a charger? I was considering doing the trailer plug method since I have a 25' battery tender extension cable for my dirtbikes.

Debating getting another Aux battery, or just converting to a bigger/relocated Aux battery. Probably just swap it until I get ready to run the 2gauge for the 2nd battery for the inverter setup down the road.

My Aux battery is slowly killing my main battery, I drive it about 100 miles+ almost every day, and the following morning the battery gauge k-on/e-off drops about .1v every 2-5 days. Alternator is great, 14.4/5v consistently. Just need to get other things done before I drop $250 on a battery.

 

[ChrisNLA]

Do you ever maintain with a charger? I was considering doing the trailer plug method since I have a 25' battery tender extension cable for my dirtbikes.

Debating getting another Aux battery, or just converting to a bigger/relocated Aux battery. Probably just swap it until I get ready to run the 2gauge for the 2nd battery for the inverter setup down the road.

My Aux battery is slowly killing my main battery, I drive it about 100 miles+ almost every day, and the following morning the battery gauge k-on/e-off drops about .1v every 2-5 days. Alternator is great, 14.4/5v consistently. Just need to get other things done before I drop $250 on a battery.

Nope. My commute with the truck is generally 10 miles a day and then one or two 70 mile round trips over the weekend.

I always push the button to turn auto stop / start off.

On occasion I forget, and then the system seems to work fine - which has been my 'gauge' for how good the batteries are

 

[JTdiRtyD]

Do you ever maintain with a charger? I was considering doing the trailer plug method since I have a 25' battery tender extension cable for my dirtbikes.

Debating getting another Aux battery, or just converting to a bigger/relocated Aux battery. Probably just swap it until I get ready to run the 2gauge for the 2nd battery for the inverter setup down the road.

My Aux battery is slowly killing my main battery, I drive it about 100 miles+ almost every day, and the following morning the battery gauge k-on/e-off drops about .1v every 2-5 days. Alternator is great, 14.4/5v consistently. Just need to get other things done before I drop $250 on a battery.

I recently wired in a Noco connector and I plug in on weekends. It's helped keep my remote start from being canceled.

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