Dilly's Willy Build/Log

[Dilly’S Willy]

I've been lurking for a while, mostly using the forum to educate myself and help decide whether I was getting a Jeep or not for my next 4 wheeled vehicle. I've been on 2 wheels since 2018 exclusively and decided I needed a truck now for many reasons which I can dive into another time. I may jump around a bit in this post, bear with me. Here were the requirements:

Manual transmission
4x4
Power rear window OR removable tops (Think Tundra OR Jeep)
Tow package from factory
LSD Rear end
NO LEATHER
Under $35k
Under 60k miles
Zero accidents

Those options weren't really an issue for my search, EXCEPT the MT. That resulted on average less then 60 vehicles nationwide, over 4 months of searching. Until around August I was heading out with my pup and searched or Gladiators in general, noticing a blue one with low miles (and my budget) at a dealership I worked for in the past. I called, we drove out, test drove, and that blue blunderbuss with under 28k miles was mine for pickup the next day. Got dropped off with the pup (service dog) and we drove to the dog park first thing, then by the end of the day put around 200 miles on it.

I've since put over 10k miles on it, and (knock on wood) have had zero major issues with it. I say "major" issues because I've had a couple small dumb things intermittently and to be blunt, it's due to a lazy dealership service when the previous owner had it. Those "small dumb things" are: driver door rattles over bumpy roads, front doors leak at seal near B-Pillar, missing tailgate bedliner, and a rattle that isn't always reproducible around 55mph in 3rd gear under moderate to heavy load (but there's many cases on the forums/YT/social media about it). I've already been in contact with said dealer and we're working to (hopefully) achieve proper corrections. Everything is still under Jeep warranty until May 2026, and I've got further coverage through the dealer I worked for/purchased from which I trust from experience.

Everything is currently stock, including:
- 23W package
- Trailer Tow Package
- Cold Weather Group
- Mopar Black Doorsill Guards
- Mopar Hard Tri-fold Tonnaeu Cover
- Mopar Grab Handles (Front)
- Black Freedom 3-Piece Hard Top
- Mopar Spray-in bedliner

I've only added a Viofo A229Plus dashcam, after being nearly killed 5x on motorcycles, and how bad people are when behind the wheel...I'm not taking chances anymore. It's a 2k 2nd Gen Starvis sensor with parking modes and I used their hardwire kit w/ voltage cutoff. It's been over a month with the hardwire kit and the Jeep starts up effortlessly every time. It's mounted directly behind the rear view mirror and provides a great view for off-roading too!

My BIGGEST complaint is the 3.73 gears being a non-Max Tow. I don't mind the narrow axles or the anti-slip (clutch LSD) rear end, but man the heavy Firestone M/T2 combined with the constant rolling valleys in the northeast is annoying as hell with these 3.73 gears. I knew the manual was essentially a 4 speed with 2x OD vs a true 6 speed, but the 3.73 is just not good for the Willys models as they come with heavy tires unlike the other Sport models. Here you must ring out 2/3/4 in the hills to keep up with traffic, but I am averaging around 18-19 combined in summer and 16-17 combined in winter. FYI I drive "spiritedly", I didn't buy a truck to drive like an old woman on sunday. I'm pretty confident the 4.56 gears will not only give back usable power and help off-roading, but increase mpg a bit too. Not expecting 21+mpg but 19-20 would be great all year round, especially with the 34.1" in the future.

The overall goal with the build consists of:

• Daily, dual use for towing and off-road adventures
• An audio system that isn't overpowered by Jeep things (doors/tops off at highway speeds)
• Isn't a "4 speed double overdrive" dog to lug through the hills
• Retain/obtain as much articulation w/out losing highway manners or lifting unnecessarily
• Keep stock wheels/offset

The plans are quite extensive:

Stage 1/1.5
Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T 255/85R17 (w/ matching spare)
Matching alloy spare (replace steel spare)
4.56 Mopar regear
2"+ lift/level (full/correct lift, not the cheap/mall crawler way)
-------------------
Mud Flaps
Differential/Tranny vents relocation

Stage 2/2.5
PAC AmpPro (R.2)
3.5" Kicker KSC350 Dash speakers
6.5" Alpine Type-S Coaxial Speakers in Knee Panels (w/ pods & polyfill)
6.5" Alpine Type-S/R Component in Soundbar (w/ polyfill)
10" Kicker L7T in custom down-firing under-rear-seat enclosure (w/ polyfill)
Kicker LX1300.7 Amp (4 internal amps, 3 for 6ch, 1 for subs)
0-Gauge positive lead-to-distribution fuse block (for Stage 3.5)
Distribution fuse block (1in/2out)
4-Gauge distro fuse block-to-amp
Footrest(s) for doors off (DIY as I don't like any offered)
-------------------
Full width/length skid tray
Oracle Heated LED headlights

Stage 3/3.5
Mojave/Rubicon PBJ fenders (front/rear)
TrueTrac Rear LSD
Front Locker (w/ remote activation)
Swaybar disconnects (may mod for remote activation: front and rear)
--------------------
2nd battery (bed mounted, underneath possibly)
Battery isolater
2-Gauge distro fuse block-to-isolator
2-Gauge isolator-to-2nd battery (fused, bed mounted, underneath possibly)
2/3kw Pure-Sine AC inverter (bed mounted, waterproofed, bed AC outlet, for tools/etc)
Distribution fuse block (1in/2out)
2-Gauge distro fuse block-to-inverter
On-board air (bed mounted, waterproofed)
8-Gauge distro fuse block-to-air
Steel F/R Bumpers w/ winch (DIY)

Stage 4
OEM LED DRL/Turn lights
LED Tail lights
Euro LED Turn Mirror covers
PBJ paint-matched OR PBJ coated freedom tops
PBJ front grill surround (match 2024+ Willys look)
Bestop Sunshade for Sunrider
Tube Doors

Stage 5
Custom engine build
- Carillo Rods
- Wiseco 10.5:1 Pistons
- ACL Race bearings
- ARP Studs
- Beehive Valve Springs/Retainers
- Garret GTX3071 Gen2
- Tial twin 38mm EWG
- Greddy Profec EBC
- AEM UEGO
- Twin Walbro 255lph pumps
Engine tuning by me w/ HP Tuners and OEM Gpec2 (WOOT for early 2021 build date!)

NOTE: Stage 1 and 2 I'm indecisive about which will be first. I'd like to have tires but will hate the 3.73s even more, while having nice audio would be great all the time, but still may add enough weight to want the regear.

As you can tell I have BIG plans for this truck. It is and will be both my daily driver and used for my upcoming business (until my 450 Supermoto and 2.17L stroker WRX are finished being restored), then will be the weekend warrior, rolling advertisement for my business, and the tow truck for adventures with a camper and dirtbikes.

I enjoy building my own vehicles how I want them, and will never buy one for a trend. Sure it's probably easier swapping a bigger engine (boring) but show me a properly built/tuned TURBO 3.6 wrangler/gladiator...I'LL WAIT. And TBH, superchargers are BORING. With modern ECU tuning/turbos, and correct boost threshold, you won't even notice a difference, other than better efficiency with a turbo. 100+hp gain with a SC requires 20-40hp to turn it, 100+hp gain with a turbo requires existing exhaust gasses and 15-25lbs of metal for exhaust material. They don't wear out your bottom end prematurely like a SC will, and are cheaper to rebuild when the time comes....which is also less often.

Anyone who's got a manual gladiator and has experience with 3.73 -> 4.56 vs 4.88 gears, please chime in on your experience, preferably without a SuperCharger.
Anyone with knowledge/experience with 255/85R17 on sport models with sport variant alloy wheels (sport/s/willys/overland/nighthawk/80th), please chime in about rubbing, before/after setups to prevent rubbing, can you hit full articulation without mods/what mods needed?
Anyone with 12" subwoofers in your gladiator UNDER the REAR seat, please chime in. Especially if you have down firing subs.
Anyone which knowledge/experience in FULL/Proper lift kits/builds, regarding skinny 35" tires on a NON-mojave/rubicon, please chime in.

If you can't tell, I'm an engineer by nature. From computers and robotics, to electrical and mechanical systems, if I don't know it and want to...I'll learn it.

Oh

Questions are welcome. Thoughts are too, opinions...couldn't care less but that's your right. We're all here to enjoy a passion: Jeeps and off-roading. Lets keep this civil and educational. This thread mainly to document MY build, but also as a place for others to reference any of the above projects if they wish to attempt doing the same, as I do my best to document them in the moment and provide clear, detailed info.

I enjoy learning and teaching, so lets share and enjoy! Pics to come, yes I have plenty.

Oh and say hello to Laser the bestest service doggo!

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[ORACLElights]

Awesome build, and such a great paint color!

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

Maybe I missed it, but I didn’t see the Angry Grille on that modification list anywhere.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

Awesome build, and such a great paint color!

Thanks! Haven't gotten started, yet. But here in my state there aren't any state OHV parks since 2018, only private OHV land you must pay to use or travel to nearby states. In the desert if it isn't marked, you can run it...usually. So I haven't bothered with the off-road mods.

Coming from Subaru build, where they cap around 10-20k for a full build, I think this is going to be closer to 30-60k for the build.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

Maybe I missed it, but I didn’t see the Angry Grille on that modification list anywhere.

Exactly, those people want everyone to know they bought "the poor man's G wagon"

 

[Jaxmax]

NE USA with deserts?

Can’t find a desert here in Pa!
Like your plan couple thoughts:
1. Get a set of Mojave take off wheels 3/4” more offset for more room and usually reasonable.
2. Clutch is something a lot of people improve on, towing is limited with a stick a bit. I have an auto though.
3. Apex sway bar disconnects are awesome , no electrical failure points, unlock’em and they are unlocked until you are done not locking back at a certain speed. Disconnected sway bar is a huge thing off-road. Welcome…..Jack

 

[LouisvEarlleJT]

May have missed it somewhere, but didn't see a clutch on those lists. The crappy 6-speed that jeep threw in these is what drove a lot of folks to an automatic in this platform.

Plenty to read on that subject in these forums.

Another thing to remember is that these motors are designed to spin up to higher RPMs, so even after extensive modification I wouldn't expect the power band to shift to a lower RPM range.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

NE USA with deserts?

Can’t find a desert here in Pa!
Like your plan couple thoughts:
1. Get a set of Mojave take off wheels 3/4” more offset for more room and usually reasonable.
2. Clutch is something a lot of people improve on, towing is limited with a stick a bit. I have an auto though.
3. Apex sway bar disconnects are awesome , no electrical failure points, unlock’em and they are unlocked until you are done not locking back at a certain speed. Disconnected sway bar is a huge thing off-road. Welcome…..Jack

I was in the desert before I came back to the NE.

1. I've considered the Mojave take-off option, but I currently NEED a Willys wheel for 5 tire rotations with the full-size matching spare so I'm not using the steel wheel or paying for 2 mount/dismount every rotation.
- Does the offset really make that much difference with the 255 width tire?
- What the consensus on lower offset with sport axles/wheel bearings long term?

2. I've got the recall clutch fix with around 5k miles when I got the truck, and now has about 10k miles more since I've owned it. Yes the clutch is meh, but it does stay consistent...for now. I MIGHT do an ACT clutch down the road as they don't require mods like the jank CF clutches do. Heck I might even get another SouthBendClutch kit (love them in Subaru builds). Regearing will help immensely with towing, which is also why I'm debating 4.56 vs 4.88, but having 32s on 4.88 is going to be spicy. I'm already running around 7.6 sec 0-60mph on 3.73 and not smoking the clutch.

3. Those are what I've been considering, for starters anyways.
- Can you use them both front and rear or just front?
- WHEN DO YOU NEED LONGER BRAKE LINES? I can't find a good standard for when to do this, other than with lift kits.

Also, what mudflaps are those? I've have Rally Armor on my Subaru and love them. But between the 2-3x cost for Jeep, and almost smaller flaps compared even to my Subaru (rally build), and RB flaps looking cheap af...I'm not sure what to do. For reference, check out Rally Armor's Urethane flaps for Subaru, they don't get hard, super flexible for off-road, and look great.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

May have missed it somewhere, but didn't see a clutch on those lists. The crappy 6-speed that jeep threw in these is what drove a lot of folks to an automatic in this platform.

Plenty to read on that subject in these forums.

Another thing to remember is that these motors are designed to spin up to higher RPMs, so even after extensive modification I wouldn't expect the power band to shift to a lower RPM range.

May have missed it somewhere, but didn't see a clutch on those lists. The crappy 6-speed that jeep threw in these is what drove a lot of folks to an automatic in this platform.

Plenty to read on that subject in these forums.

Another thing to remember is that these motors are designed to spin up to higher RPMs, so even after extensive modification I wouldn't expect the power band to shift to a lower RPM range.

The manual tranny isn't a bad design, Aisin makes great transmissions. Poor driving habits/poor gearing selection don't help. The biggest complaint I've noticed about these gearboxes can be summed into one issue: GEARING.
- It's designed to compromise street driving (mostly emissions) and off-road performance for 4L range. Thus the "4 speed with double overdrive" feeling almost EVERYONE talks about. Now factor in the Rubicon 4L t-case ratios and you'll understand why they did what they did to the gearing.

As for shifting the powerband vs rpm use, I don't mind revving out, my 2.17L stroker revs to 7200 (and 8500 down the road), the 4.2L Vortec I6 revved to 7250 stock, my ez30r revved to 7100. I just want to add more power between 2000-4000 and a turbo sized correctly will allow just that, and some more everywhere else. I'm not looking for crazy power, 400whp is plenty for a daily, especially when that power hits before 3k and holds to 6k. Also usable torque is what people enjoy, look at the diesel bois loving their 400+ft/lb below 2k. Sometimes, but not always, the math maths. Perks of designing race vehicles for a hobby I guess.


Mild fact-based rant:

Also let's be honest, the BIGGEST reason people went with the automatic is simple: CONVENIENCE. It's a sad, but true fact. When I sold vehicles at dealerships I would ask my customers if they wanted a manual transmission and here's the most common response (verbatim): "Why would I want that? I just want to get in, listen to music, and get where I'm going with the least effort possible." If I asked if their trade was automatic or a manual transmission: "Pretty sure it's manual, you can shift it yourself, wait, what? No there's only a gas and brake pedal. Oh that's an automatic? Well I never really use the manual mode anyways." This was for any vehicle type: 1500s, Tacos, Vettes. Rarely do you encounter a buyer than actually wants a manual transmission, unless they know exactly what they want.
- Combine that with an industry that not only is required to meet absurd US/EU emissions, but also has a dying market demand, and now you know why only Toyota makes more models that offer a manual transmission than any other brand today. Heck they're even toying with a gearbox/EV concept for the next gen AE86. Meanwhile Subaru, BMW, etc are all pushing for DCT/cvt autos and/or EV.

 

[LouisvEarlleJT]

The manual tranny isn't a bad design, Aisin makes great transmissions. Poor driving habits/poor gearing selection don't help. The biggest complaint I've noticed about these gearboxes can be summed into one issue: GEARING.
- It's designed to compromise street driving (mostly emissions) and off-road performance for 4L range. Thus the "4 speed with double overdrive" feeling almost EVERYONE talks about. Now factor in the Rubicon 4L t-case ratios and you'll understand why they did what they did to the gearing.

As for shifting the powerband vs rpm use, I don't mind revving out, my 2.17L stroker revs to 7200 (and 8500 down the road), the 4.2L Vortec I6 revved to 7250 stock, my ez30r revved to 7100. I just want to add more power between 2000-4000 and a turbo sized correctly will allow just that, and some more everywhere else. I'm not looking for crazy power, 400whp is plenty for a daily, especially when that power hits before 3k and holds to 6k. Also usable torque is what people enjoy, look at the diesel bois loving their 400+ft/lb below 2k. Sometimes, but not always, the math maths. Perks of designing race vehicles for a hobby I guess.


Mild fact-based rant:

Also let's be honest, the BIGGEST reason people went with the automatic is simple: CONVENIENCE. It's a sad, but true fact. When I sold vehicles at dealerships I would ask my customers if they wanted a manual transmission and here's the most common response (verbatim): "Why would I want that? I just want to get in, listen to music, and get where I'm going with the least effort possible." If I asked if their trade was automatic or a manual transmission: "Pretty sure it's manual, you can shift it yourself, wait, what? No there's only a gas and brake pedal. Oh that's an automatic? Well I never really use the manual mode anyways." This was for any vehicle type: 1500s, Tacos, Vettes. Rarely do you encounter a buyer than actually wants a manual transmission, unless they know exactly what they want.
- Combine that with an industry that not only is required to meet absurd US/EU emissions, but also has a dying market demand, and now you know why only Toyota makes more models that offer a manual transmission than any other brand today. Heck they're even toying with a gearbox/EV concept for the next gen AE86. Meanwhile Subaru, BMW, etc are all pushing for DCT/cvt autos and/or EV.

For sure, I have no qualms with Aisin. Solely with Jeep . Still can’t get over the fact that the same 6-speed is in a 2-door JL and a JT.
Anyway, don’t want to hijack your build thread griping about transmissions. Good luck!

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

For sure, I have no qualms with Aisin. Solely with Jeep . Still can’t get over the fact that the same 6-speed is in a 2-door JL and a JT.
Anyway, don’t want to hijack your build thread griping about transmissions. Good luck!

Blame Stellantis haha!

At one point I thought about changing the ratios not just the final drive (R&P), then remembered the whole off-road portion with 4L and THOSE added ratios to the R&P and all things considered it wasn't worth the money to me, and apparently 99.9% of JT owners.

It's all good. I appreciate you.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

Time to be a technician again. When I got the truck, the coolant res was a bit low (below min line) but it never got hot (above 203F) all summer. I kept an eye on it and started checking how common this was. Turns out not UNcommon, but not something I'd consider normal (maybe for FCA it is). Seems if you're not consuming it "fast enough" nobody seems to genuinely care (including Jeep), and the most common source is a weep hole in the tank connection to the bottom hose.

I noticed the other day that when I got home after going out for a few hours of driving when it was 18F outside that the next morning the res level was EVEN LOWER than the previous morning, by about 2-3mm. I grabbed Mopar pre-mix and topped it off. While at the dealer they said "that amount of loss is pretty normal", are you F*$#ing shitting me dude? I have 30k ABUSED miles on an engine people cry about being known for headgaskets and THAT doesn't burn a DROP (EJ205). "FCA might not warranty coolant loss unless it's a headgasket", My man...I'm an ASE master tech, don't start bsing me, "Well I'm not saying it's guaranteed they won't but I've seen it NOT covered before".

So here we go, being OCD about recording coolant levels daily until May 2026 (FCA warranty expires), after that I'll keep checking, but the extended warranty can deal with it. I'm not sure if it's being burned during a cold start, or if it's weeping. But 2-3mm loss overnight from expansion/retraction is unacceptable. I've owned 7 prior vehicles and 4 motorcycles, the ONLY exception was a 1995 Grand Prix with the dreaded 3500, and the ONLY reason it consumed coolant was it had a CRACKED BLOCK when I got it (19yo, poor, needed basic transportation, got lied to by some wealthy f*&$).


Also, I've been debating the tires/lift/etc vs the audio system as the first set of mods. While the 34s/etc would look great and be functional, there's not anywhere in my state to enjoy that setup and I don't have the time currently to travel for that. Where as I enjoy music almost all the time, and I'm tired of adjusting the volume to be able to hear the details vs words with the crap factory audio trying to not blow the speakers (bass at 0 and volume at 20-24). You take a panel or door off, forget trying to enjoy music at all, even at volume 30.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

But with the 34s you could run over all the traffic!!!! That’s kind of like being off-road right?

 

[LouisvEarlleJT]

Time to be a technician again. When I got the truck, the coolant res was a bit low (below min line) but it never got hot (above 203F) all summer. I kept an eye on it and started checking how common this was. Turns out not UNcommon, but not something I'd consider normal (maybe for FCA it is). Seems if you're not consuming it "fast enough" nobody seems to genuinely care (including Jeep), and the most common source is a weep hole in the tank connection to the bottom hose.

I noticed the other day that when I got home after going out for a few hours of driving when it was 18F outside that the next morning the res level was EVEN LOWER than the previous morning, by about 2-3mm. I grabbed Mopar pre-mix and topped it off. While at the dealer they said "that amount of loss is pretty normal", are you F*$#ing shitting me dude? I have 30k ABUSED miles on an engine people cry about being known for headgaskets and THAT doesn't burn a DROP (EJ205). "FCA might not warranty coolant loss unless it's a headgasket", My man...I'm an ASE master tech, don't start bsing me, "Well I'm not saying it's guaranteed they won't but I've seen it NOT covered before".

So here we go, being OCD about recording coolant levels daily until May 2026 (FCA warranty expires), after that I'll keep checking, but the extended warranty can deal with it. I'm not sure if it's being burned during a cold start, or if it's weeping. But 2-3mm loss overnight from expansion/retraction is unacceptable. I've owned 7 prior vehicles and 4 motorcycles, the ONLY exception was a 1995 Grand Prix with the dreaded 3500, and the ONLY reason it consumed coolant was it had a CRACKED BLOCK when I got it (19yo, poor, needed basic transportation, got lied to by some wealthy f*&$).


Also, I've been debating the tires/lift/etc vs the audio system as the first set of mods. While the 34s/etc would look great and be functional, there's not anywhere in my state to enjoy that setup and I don't have the time currently to travel for that. Where as I enjoy music almost all the time, and I'm tired of adjusting the volume to be able to hear the details vs words with the crap factory audio trying to not blow the speakers (bass at 0 and volume at 20-24). You take a panel or door off, forget trying to enjoy music at all, even at volume 30.

Yeah. . .coolant level shouldn't change. I had to top off my coolant and e-power steering fluid on delivery, but since then the only thing I've had to add was more e-power steering fluid, last weekend (small amount). Going on 3 years come March.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

Just got the JT back from the dealer who did warranty work for the previous owner, new paint should look good in the snow with this storm coming in. And I bet you've never seen a JT next to an igloo!

They had me in a 2024/25 Renegade Limited with the 1.3T and it was okay...had it for almost 2 weeks. Has a 9 speed auto and on demand 4x4 (awd), but the Fiat engine only made peak power between 3k-4.5k and after 1/2 throttle input you don't get anything else. I also NEVER saw it hit 8/9th gears even going downhill at any speed.

It DID have the 8.4" screen which was nice. Does anyone know if you can swap the 8.4" from other models without issues? Specifically to 7"/non-alpine vehicles? The connectors should be the same, and I have access to these units from all model jeeps that were offered and the price is too good to beat.

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