Disconnect one side of swaybar with cordless impact?

[Volt0]

I have a cordless impact, and could easily zip off the bolt at the bottom of the swaybar link on the driver side. The passenger side looks … a little more manual.

So is there a reason why we see folks/companies doing things to disconnect both sides at the trail head? If you do at least one side, they can move independently … so they do both for more travel or something?

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[chorky]

If you only disconnect one side, say the drivers, and when the drivers side is flexed hard it can push the right side down hard potentially getting into a rock. It would be worth testing though.

 

[TheRealStreetcommander]

Yes, it will work in a pinch, but as noted, the sway bar becomes a big swinging lever. It can also sometimes shift the bar left or right in the bushings.

 

[Rahkmalla]

From my memory the passenger side is the side that requires less tools. Not more.

The drivers side you need a socket and a wrench to hold the nut while you loosen the bolt. The passengers side is on a flag nut, so you only need a socket.

As for only doing one side... that sounds like potential for rubbing parts and potentially damage. Wouldn't suggest it.

 

[Panthers65]

I use to do it, for smoothening out the ride on a rough road it works fine, but as stated above when you really get to flexing the side that's still connected you have a better potential to get things hung up or hit things. It can also overextend the sway bar bushing that is left connected causing it to fail faster.

 

[Gvsukids]

I have a cordless impact, and could easily zip off the bolt at the bottom of the swaybar link on the driver side. The passenger side looks … a little more manual.

With the wide axles, I can slip my impact in to loosen the bolts at full turn. Grab an 18mm wrench to hold the bolt on the driver's side.

 

[TheDerb]

Isnt the Right side side a flag nut? that’s easier to deal with than an impact wrench…. they aren’t torqued to any crazy level.


the flag is part of the nut, Volt0. It means you only need 1 wrench for the bolt to complete the removal. No need to have a wrench on the nut.

Also I suggest getting a crescent wrench and a 6mm Allen wrench to remove the top portion of the sway bar link. Push the whole sway bar up, and zip tie it to the frame so that it isn’t just sticking out to get damaged.

 

[Rahkmalla]

I suggest getting a crescent wrench and a 6mm Allen wrench to remove the top portion of the sway bar link

If I were manually disconnecting I would never fully remove the sway bar link. The tops are a HUGE pain in the ass to disconnect.

Just disconnect the bottoms of the links and zip tie the links to the sway bar.

 

[TheDerb]

If I were manually disconnecting I would never fully remove the sway bar link. The tops are a HUGE pain in the ass to disconnect.

Just disconnect the bottoms of the links and zip tie the links to the sway bar.

I’ve never met anybody who had trouble before- you just put the 6mm hex wrench into the bolt face to stabilize the bolt. It takes about 10 seconds.

 

[Rahkmalla]

I’ve never met anybody who had trouble before- you just put the 6mm hex wrench into the bolt face to stabilize the bolt. It takes about 10 seconds.

Too skinny to fit a socket so you have to do it with a wrench. I didn't have a ratcheting wrench in that size, and you only get about 30 degrees of rotation each turn and they are on there nice and good from the factory.

10 seconds? I'd good money pay to see it, cause I've done it and it took way longer than that (did it once to install autolynx)

 

[Volt0]

With the wide axles, I can slip my impact in to loosen the bolts at full turn. Grab an 18mm wrench to hold the bolt on the driver's side.

I just tried it out in the garage today.

Driver's side => I can use an impact with wobbler on the diff side, wrench on the wheel side and zipped right off.

Pass side => manually used a ratchet, with less than 90degree stroke. Wasn't painful or anything, but would have been faster if I could just squeeze a button. ;-). Even at full turn, I don't see how an impact would get in there. Are you saying that there's a way to do that, with the wheel on? If so, could we get a pic?

 

[Gvsukids]

I just tried it out in the garage today.

Driver's side => I can use an impact with wobbler on the diff side, wrench on the wheel side and zipped right off.

Pass side => manually used a ratchet, with less than 90degree stroke. Wasn't painful or anything, but would have been faster if I could just squeeze a button. ;-). Even at full turn, I don't see how an impact would get in there. Are you saying that there's a way to do that, with the wheel on? If so, could we get a pic?

Here,

 

[ChrisNLA]

You could.

But if you have $450 to throw away the Apex Auto Lynx are amazing.

Sat on the tailgate and played on my phone while two other people in our group where digging out impacts, laying in the dirt, and playing with parts. All I did was turn two knobs and get back in the truck.

Anyway - Id recommend disconnecting both sides and zip tying it up to the frame. Risk overextending the connected side, possibly flipping the sway bar over in the process - or the non connected side hanging down and hitting things.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Just disconnect the bottoms of the links and zip tie the links to the sway bar.

This right here. You don't want loose links swinging around

 

[jav_eee]

Here,

That ain’t the passenger side….

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