DIY Bedrail System

[tanner20]

How did you bend it? Torch, a vise, and a big adjustable wrench?

I botched the first one with a vise and a ball peen hammer trying to fold it over an 3/32" allen wrench trying to work it cold. It didn't lay flat. Fortunately (for me), I work at a shop that forms metal so mine were done with some dies and a press.

It is possible to get the same results with a MAP torch (available from most hardware stores), a pair of vise grips and some patience, though...just takes more time. A word of caution if you use a torch is to remove as much of the Zinc plating as possible as the fumes are not good for you.

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[InvertedLogic]

I botched the first one with a vise and a ball peen hammer trying to fold it over an 3/32" allen wrench trying to work it cold. It didn't lay flat. Fortunately (for me), I work at a shop that forms metal so mine were done with some dies and a press.

It is possible to get the same results with a MAP torch (available from most hardware stores), a pair of vise grips and some patience, though...just takes more time. A word of caution if you use a torch is to remove as much of the Zinc plating as possible as the fumes are not good for you.

Was afraid of that. These brackets are super thick, I've been trying to find a way to bend them in an average garage.

 

[tanner20]

Was afraid of that. These brackets are super thick, I've been trying to find a way to bend them in an average garage.

Been thinking about it and believe it can be done even easier.

PIcture a vise with the jaw open about 0.250-0.375". Stand a 'sit on top' strut channel washer up in that space at about a 45° angle.

Hold the part at that angle with downward pressure on the radius of the washer with a chisel close to the full width of the washer.

Strike the chisel with a heavy hammer / mini sledge a few times.

This 'setup' is fairly similar to how the tooling worked on the kick press. We weren't using a hydraulic press, so it did take 5-6 kicks per bend.

You won't get where you want in a single move...it's going to take the shock of the hammer impacting the chisel, creasing the radius against the jaws of the vise a few times to close it up.

I'm sure there's more than one way to do it, but this simulates what I did using things most guys have at home.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Just a heads up I bought the black eye bolts thinking it would save a step for painting. A month later they started to rust and needed painted anyways.

Black bolts from a home center or hardware store are often black oxide - not good for outside use. It's literally a black patina formed by oxidizing the steel with specific chemicals.

A person could use black zinc plated bolts. Those would hold up pretty well even in weather. They'd eventually lose protection from rubbing and scraping but would hold up a lot better than store-bought black oxide bolts. (difference - black oxide is duller finish, black zinc is deeper looking, with shine, can be a semi-chocolate brown to dark brown to black)

Just something to consider for those who want things to look decent for a longer time.

I found this thread after asking about ways to anchor taller things in my truck after an emergency run to Menards to buy a new water heater. Yeah, you guessed it - there goes my day..... the water heater is tall, had no place to anchor to keep it from tipping on the 25 minute trip home so we ran straps through the back doors, through the cab and around to hold it up. NEVER AGAIN. I hated those straps rubbing on the paint of that NOT metal roof!

These ideas are beyond fantastic. Now I have to decide - rails, or bolt on anchor loops, or a combination of the two..........


These are black zinc.
I plated these for a guy doing a classic car restoration -

 

[mazeppa]

Just did my DIY bedrails using Unistrut that I had Line-X applied to and the rubber end caps.

 

[gerky18]

Just did my DIY bedrails using Unistrut that I had Line-X applied to and the rubber end caps.

If you don't mind me asking, what did they charge you for the Line-X? I have mine with the spray-on bedliner (from a can) and it looks good but when I move the points around it sometimes chips.

 

[Gmac03]

Why doesn’t anybody buy black strut channeling instead of painting it? Does it not hold up well?

As I was...I see the original posts were using painted strut channels. ??

 

[gerky18]

Why doesn’t anybody buy black strut channeling instead of painting it? Does it not hold up well?

As I was...I see the original posts were using painted strut channels. ??

The reason I painted mine was availability. Lowes and Home Depot do not stock black strut channeling and the only reason I painted it was to blend in with the bedliner. I am not sure if the black strut is more expensive or not but it was a one day project to go to the store and finish it the same day.

 

[jbehrn]

If you don't mind me asking, what did they charge you for the Line-X? I have mine with the spray-on bedliner (from a can) and it looks good but when I move the points around it sometimes chips.

At my local HF they sell a gallon of roll on bed liner for about $40. I’m guessing it’s about the same quality.... Is the chipping you are seeing minor or is it big pieces coming off?

 

[gerky18]

At my local HF they sell a gallon of roll on bed liner for about $40. I’m guessing it’s about the same quality.... Is the chipping you are seeing minor or is it big pieces coming off?

It is small chipping. I have the square metal washers on the outside and when I moved them small bits came off. Nothing major just noticeable. I let all the paint dry for a few days before installing too so I think it is just pressure when I secure it all together.

 

[mazeppa]

If you don't mind me asking, what did they charge you for the Line-X? I have mine with the spray-on bedliner (from a can) and it looks good but when I move the points around it sometimes chips.

I had them done at the same time I had by bed done, so they inclusive in total price quoted. They usually charge $50 minimum on small items, except when you have them batched together with a larger project.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Is everyone using the 1 5/8 x 1 5/8" stock or is anyone using 13/16" stuff?

 

[mazeppa]

Is everyone using the 1 5/8 x 1 5/8" stock or is anyone using 13/16" stuff?

That is the size I used, and I think most others in this thread are using that size also. The 13/16 would work, especially across the front of the bed, but you may be limited with available hardware for the 13/16 shorter strut channel.

On the picture above, the green tape points to the one hole I had to drill in the strut, couldn't get all four holes in the bed to line up with the elongated holes in the strut. I used Unistrut but I think the Superstrut elongated hole dimensions are the same.

 

[mazeppa]

Modified Toyota Tie Down Cleats, # 58461-04020-00 to work better on Unistrut, by adding M8x1.25 strut channel nuts. The M8 T-stud that I screwed strut channel nuts onto will just unscrew from the tightening knob from a tie down cleat. The strut channel nut can be tightened down to perfectly line up with the M8 T-stud.

**** Edit: change M8x1 to M8x1.25 for the proper strut channel nut thread

 

[Gmac03]

So need some help...

Ordered everything but have too small of washers from the order.

Couldn't find the strut channel cap backers. Looked to be rubber or plastic squares.

Couldn’t find the washers for the eyelets.

Hopefully the depot will have something appropriate and black colored.

And last and most importantly I have a Access LiteRider inside the rails tonneau cover that is using clamps. Anybody have a solution for mounting it with this DIY bed rail system?

Thanks. ??

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