Driver’s side soundbar speaker issues

[Brian2o0o]

I swapped out my factory speakers in the sound bar for the Trail Seven adapters with 6.5” speakers. I have the Stinger Heigh10 stereo. The passenger side has always worked fine, but the drivers side continues to work on and off. I have tried everything I can think of and I can get the speaker working while the stereo is on by plugging/unplugging the speaker, but then the next time I start the Jeep no sound again. I’ve swapped the pos/neg around on the pigtails because they were backwards from trail seven, reset the stereo, checked the speaker wiring on the back of the stereo and even tried a new speaker. Everything seems to fix the problem temporarily, but then it comes right back. My last resort looks like it will be soldering in resistors. Anyone have any other ideas?

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[WILDHOBO]

I swapped out my factory speakers in the sound bar for the Trail Seven adapters with 6.5” speakers. I have the Stinger Heigh10 stereo. The passenger side has always worked fine, but the drivers side continues to work on and off. I have tried everything I can think of and I can get the speaker working while the stereo is on by plugging/unplugging the speaker, but then the next time I start the Jeep no sound again. I’ve swapped the pos/neg around on the pigtails because they were backwards from trail seven, reset the stereo, checked the speaker wiring on the back of the stereo and even tried a new speaker. Everything seems to fix the problem temporarily, but then it comes right back. My last resort looks like it will be soldering in resistors. Anyone have any other ideas?

How are they getting power, directly from the head unit, or through an external amp? If from the head unit, it’s common for the head units to want a specific amount of load. If they don’t get it, they’ll shut down the channel to “protect” the head unit. It’s common with oem, including my oem head unit. I had to put load resistors between the head unit and the speakers. My local audio guy told me which size, and had some in stock. It’s been flawless since.

 

[Brian2o0o]

How are they getting power, directly from the head unit, or through an external amp? If from the head unit, it’s common for the head units to want a specific amount of load. If they don’t get it, they’ll shut down the channel to “protect” the head unit. It’s common with oem, including my oem head unit. I had to put load resistors between the head unit and the speakers. My local audio guy told me which size, and had some in stock. It’s been flawless since.

Yea, powered by the head unit, no amp. I found specific resistors that they were using over on the JL forum and just soldering them between the pos/neg posts on the speakers. How did you wire yours in?

 

[WILDHOBO]

Yea, powered by the head unit, no amp. I found specific resistors that they were using over on the JL forum and just soldering them between the pos/neg posts on the speakers. How did you wire yours in?

The ones I bought are awesome. Screw terminals. So no soldering, but still a great connection. I’ll see if I can find what they are.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Yea, powered by the head unit, no amp. I found specific resistors that they were using over on the JL forum and just soldering them between the pos/neg posts on the speakers. How did you wire yours in?

These.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161ACLGD20/AudioControl-AC-LGD-20-Load-Resistors.html

 

[WILDHOBO]

I removed their wires with the plugs, and put my speaker wires right to their terminals. Then some electric tape to cover the terminals.

 

[BourbonRunner]

These.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161ACLGD20/AudioControl-AC-LGD-20-Load-Resistors.html

Not to go off topic but...

Dude. These things have come a long way since I sold car audio in the late 90's early 00's.

Back then you'd get a tube of black magic with a scosche of voodoo heat shrunk around a couple leads. Solder in and see if it fixes the problem.

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