EcoDiesel UOA (Oil Analysis) Results Thread

[Rusty PW]

Just to clarify-

• Castrol edge euro 5w-40 A3/B4 with the API SP rating is one of the better/best oils, seemingly cheaper options that still meet the requirements? It's at my local Walmart for $27/gal.
• My understanding is the SN/SN+ is exceeded by API SP?
• CJ/CK type oils like T6 are an issue for gen3 turbos and shouldn't be used?
• MS-whatever can be met by an oil and just not paid to use it on the label?

Couple other Q's while I post on this jeep forum for my ram. I drive 94 miles each way each day. 50% flattish @ 80mph, 50% short hills gear limited to 7th with it dropping to 6th occasionally @ 75mph. About an oil change a month, 50k ish miles a year, b20 fuel, still havent gotten the recall on the fuel injectors.

• How soon is it going to blow up on my commute, tomorrow?
• Do you guys think I can get away with multiple oil changes on the same oil filter?
• EcoGuard filter just as good?
• Should I even be doing oil changes at 5k-6k miles when they're all highway, or can the castrol mentioned above get away longer safely?
• Transmission fluid change- yes, no, when, with filter change or just fluid, different brand oil pan/filter?
• differentials, transfer case, blinker fluid around the 90k-100k mile mark?
• DEF brand matter at all, when I get a work truck should I delete it?

I have 64,000 miles on my 2022.

Is it going to blow up on you. Just like every other engine. You roll the dice.

What ever oil you use. Make sure it's low SAP, low ash. I just which to Mobil 1 ESP.
Filters, I been using the OEM's. Both oil and fuel. I change the oil around the 5,000 mark plus send a sample to Blackstone. CHANGE your oil filter with every oil change. Diesels will put soot into the oil.

Transmission fluid change. I'm doing mine next spring. So around 70,000 miles. Using OEM filter and fluid.

Fluid change on the other systems. Depends how hard you drive it and off road it. I off road a good bit. So I have already changed my fluids before 50,000 miles. I'll do it again when I do the transmission change.

DEF, I use the premium. Costs more. But hoping that it doesn't crystalize as fast as the cheap stuff.

A lot of us are using this in our fuel.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FOSSQJU?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Have one of these for checking DEF fluid. Already found one bad jug that I returned.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLDZBS8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Blinker fluid. I use organic.

https://www.amazon.com/Blinker-Flui...d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1

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[IDontKnowAnything]

I guess also, cheaper trust worthy fuel and oil filters, ecoguard on amazon seem decent enough for fuel but my understanding is the mopar fuel filter is the only good option? docs diesel is considered poor quality right? I really don't know anything diesel related so yea, sick

 

[IDontKnowAnything]

I have 64,000 miles on my 2022.

Is it going to blow up on you. Just like every other engine. You roll the dice.

What ever oil you use. Make sure it's low SAP, low ash. I just which to Mobil 1 ESP.
Filters, I been using the OEM's. Both oil and fuel. I change the oil around the 5,000 mark plus send a sample to Blackstone. CHANGE your oil filter with every oil change. Diesels will put soot into the oil.

Transmission fluid change. I'm doing mine next spring. So around 70,000 miles. Using OEM filter and fluid.

Fluid change on the other systems. Depends how hard you drive it and off road it. I off road a good bit. So I have already changed my fluids before 50,000 miles. I'll do it again when I do the transmission change.

DEF, I use the premium. Costs more. But hoping that it doesn't crystalize as fast as the cheap stuff.

A lot of us are using this in our fuel.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FOSSQJU?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Have one of these for checking DEF fluid. Already found one bad jug that I returned.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLDZBS8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Blinker fluid. I use organic.

https://www.amazon.com/Blinker-Fluid-Professional-Grade-Blinks/dp/B0BB8ML814/ref=sxin_14_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.3aa93b90-4c08-4522-b5aa-f75af029ab84:amzn1.sym.3aa93b90-4c08-4522-b5aa-f75af029ab84&cv_ct_cx=blinker+fluid&keywords=blinker+fluid&pd_rd_i=B0BB8ML814&pd_rd_r=7fa8521c-4853-46a8-a3b3-803bbe3f955a&pd_rd_w=v3PfZ&pd_rd_wg=ACR9j&pf_rd_p=3aa93b90-4c08-4522-b5aa-f75af029ab84&pf_rd_r=BR7FRWRXRY6RMJQ14JP4&qid=1762644687&sbo=RZvfv//HxDF+O5021pAnSA==&sr=1-2-794806aa-f21d-47b5-a3ea-b60ce78b088a-spons&aref=yBjO1ECk1M&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1

This quote thing is confusing me but hopefully this posts right.

So the castrol edge says it has "Ash, Sulphated ASTM D874 % w t 1.2" so would that be low ash and if its higher ash, as I understand that effects (affects?) the dpf system, would the long drives not negate that negative?

I have definitely noticed the black as night sooty oil, also how its excruciatingly hot it is when fighting with a slow catch can and the frame rail on the DT ram. Now I thought the soot went through the filter anyways and would in theory be carried out with oil, but $50 bucks is better than a blown motor, I agree.

Any brands for gear oil? Can a fella get away without the LSD friction modifier if using like amsoil severe gear?

Will DEF crystalize even if the tank is consistently filled and ran through regularly or is it only on like neglected systems? I saw a DEF tank treatment at one point, is that an alternative to expensive DEF?

Your fuel treatment looks similar to the everyday diesel treatment I picked up, hot shots everyday diesel, but one of the local cuntry boys told me to only use it when it gets really cold or on occasion, does it really provide any benefit? I though cetane caused issues with the DPF when used regularly or something?

The DEF refractometer, the local auto store guy told me to put water in the DEF tank lol I didn't, but is the system really that sensitive to concentration?

I'm really curious if the docs diesel filter kit is trustworthy as its a decent price if I remember right

 

[biodiesel]

So the castrol edge says it has "Ash, Sulphated ASTM D874 % w t 1.2" so would that be low ash and if its higher ash, as I understand that effects (affects?) the dpf system, would the long drives not negate that negative?

Castrol Edge Euro has very good UOA results at 6,000-mile intervals, however, it is a full SAPS oil. Full SAPS isn't good for DPF longevity. For that reason, I wouldn't recommend Castrol Edge Euro unless you're running a deleted tune or you don't care about DPF longevity.

Any brands for gear oil? Can a fella get away without the LSD friction modifier if using like amsoil severe gear?

Amsoil Severe Gear is what I use. It's already formulated with the friction modifier.

Will DEF crystalize even if the tank is consistently filled and ran through regularly or is it only on like neglected systems?

You don't have anything to worry about. You will go through plenty of DEF with the type of driving you do. I haven't had any DEF issues, and I only have 3,200 miles on my 2023 Jeep Gladiator.

I saw a DEF tank treatment at one point, is that an alternative to expensive DEF?

There are DEF treatments and DEF cleaners. You don't need to run the DEF treatment, but it's a good idea to use Rislone DEF/SCR Cleaner every 6 months.

 

[biodiesel]

Your fuel treatment looks similar to the everyday diesel treatment I picked up, hot shots everyday diesel, but one of the local cuntry boys told me to only use it when it gets really cold or on occasion, does it really provide any benefit? I though cetane caused issues with the DPF when used regularly or something?

A fuel additive is a good idea. You already have good lubricity due to running B20 fuel. Fuel additives will also help keep your fuel injectors clean and improve combustion for a cleaner burn.

The DEF refractometer, the local auto store guy told me to put water in the DEF tank lol I didn't, but is the system really that sensitive to concentration?

There's nothing wrong with using a DEF refractometer, but you really don't need to worry about it if you're buying DEF from places like Walmart where it's going to be fresh.

I'm really curious if the docs diesel filter kit is trustworthy as its a decent price if I remember right

Docs doesn't make filters or engine oil. They are a reseller. Personally, I would stick with Mopar or bproauto (O.E. Backed).

 

[IDontKnowAnything]

Castrol Edge Euro has very good UOA results at 6,000-mile intervals, however, it is a full SAPS oil. Full SAPS isn't good for DPF longevity. For that reason, I wouldn't recommend Castrol Edge Euro unless you're running a deleted tune or you don't care about DPF longevity.

DPF longevity meaning the DPF system will actually die sooner or just itll eat DEF faster? Are we talking itll die at 200k miles or itll die at 100k miles because of the full SAPS?

There are DEF treatments and DEF cleaners. You don't need to run the DEF treatment, but it's a good idea to use Rislone DEF/SCR Cleaner every 6 months.

Would the DEF/SCR cleaner negate any ill effects of the high SAPS motor oil?

A fuel additive is a good idea. You already have good lubricity due to running B20 fuel. Fuel additives will also help keep your fuel injectors clean and improve combustion for a cleaner burn.

Fuel additives just like the hot shot or is there specific cleaners, treatments etc that are better in different areas? I almost always buy vehicles with higher miles and put an intake cleaner, oil treatment and fuel treatment through them, but I have been hesitant because I figure I don't understand enough about diesels. I'd rather not rely on google and end up doing more harm than good, like I read before BG EPR'ing the ram that modern oil at a more frequent change is more effective and safer than oil treatment, so yea idk, ya know. Is there a BG product equivalent that's worth while and safe?

There's nothing wrong with using a DEF refractometer, but you really don't need to worry about it if you're buying DEF from places like Walmart where it's going to be fresh.

Ohhhh so fresh DEF is important, gotcha.

Docs doesn't make filters or engine oil. They are a reseller. Personally, I would stick with Mopar or bproauto (O.E. Backed).

BPROauto, I'll use the google machine for that.


I really appreciate you guys answering the questions, you're all like the father I never had. <3
I have a great father but he's the "whatever the mechanic says" type of guy while I trust strangers on forums more.

 

[Rusty PW]

A fuel additive is a good idea. You already have good lubricity due to running B20 fuel. Fuel additives will also help keep your fuel injectors clean and improve combustion for a cleaner burn.



There's nothing wrong with using a DEF refractometer, but you really don't need to worry about it if you're buying DEF from places like Walmart where it's going to be fresh.



Docs doesn't make filters or engine oil. They are a reseller. Personally, I would stick with Mopar or bproauto (O.E. Backed).

Using the refractometer. I returned a jug back to Walmart. It read low. I didn't trust it.

 

[biodiesel]

DPF longevity meaning the DPF system will actually die sooner or just itll eat DEF faster? Are we talking itll die at 200k miles or itll die at 100k miles because of the full SAPS?

SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus, and Sulphur) is the solid residue left after the DPF does a regen, it won't burn off. The ash accumulates until there is a restriction and the DPF needs to be replaced. Think of it as Full SAPS (globes), Medium SAPS (marbles), and Low SAPS (sand). As you can see, ash accumulation is exponential in terms of particle size, so much so that a study concluded that a Low SAPS oil of 0.6% compared to 1.0% results with a 270% longer DPF life.

 

[biodiesel]

Using the refractometer. I returned a jug back to Walmart. It read low. I didn't trust it.

It may have been a bad batch (poor water to urea ratio). I don't blame you for taking it back. However, it probably would have been fine had you added it to your existing system. To keep the system hydrated with water, I keep the DEF tank topped off. By keeping the DEF tank full, there's less air spare for evaporation. Evaporation is a major cause of crystallization. So far, we haven't had any DEF quality issues in the 10 years we've owned and operated diesels.

 

[biodiesel]

Fuel additives just like the hot shot or is there specific cleaners, treatments etc that are better in different areas?

In terms of lubricity, the best fuel additive on the market is Opti-Lube. For that reason, I prefer Opti-Lube over Hot Shot's. For those who neglect their system and need a good clean up, then I recommend Hot Shot's Diesel Extreme. Diesel Extreme has proven to be a very effective cleaner. But for day-to-day operation, I use Opti-Lube in all of my diesel engines including the tractor.

 

[IDontKnowAnything]

SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus, and Sulphur) is the solid residue left after the DPF does a regen, it won't burn off. The ash accumulates until there is a restriction and the DPF needs to be replaced. Think of it as Full SAPS (globes), Medium SAPS (marbles), and Low SAPS (sand). As you can see, ash accumulation is exponential in terms of particle size, so much so that a study concluded that a Low SAPS oil of 0.6% compared to 1.0% results with a 270% longer DPF life.

That was an awesome explanation thank you. Could you list the top couple low SAPS oils you'd recommend? Looked like there was a couple on this thread but they definitely get lost in the sauce.

I'm not sure how the oil analysis deals work but I could test some oils if anyone is curious, those miles come fast for me.

 

[biodiesel]

Could you list the top couple low SAPS oils you'd recommend?

Unfortunately, there's isn't a low SAPS oil approved for the Gen 3 EcoDiesel; however, some people are running a Low SAPS oil (that's another discussion). Amsoil MS and XClean Gen2 are the best performing oils for the Gen 3 EcoDiesel (based off dozens of samples). They are both a mid-SAPS oil, but Amsoil MS doesn't technically meet the Chrysler spec either. So, if you want to meet Chrysler spec, then Motul XClean Gen2 is your best oil.

 

[IDontKnowAnything]

Unfortunately, there's isn't a low SAPS oil approved for the Gen 3 EcoDiesel; however, some people are running a Low SAPS oil (that's another discussion). Amsoil MS and XClean Gen2 are the best performing oils for the Gen 3 EcoDiesel (based off dozens of samples). They are both a mid-SAPS oil, but Amsoil MS doesn't technically meet the Chrysler spec either. So, if you want to meet Chrysler spec, then Motul XClean Gen2 is your best oil.

Oh man, they look good but I can't rationalize spending twice as much when I already spend over $700 just on oil. Hopefully I don't regret it, but one of those had a .7 saps and the castrol had like 1.2 i think, I'll just send it and hopefully the dpf system makes it to when I get a promotion and work truck lol.

Side note, are there any reliable treatments specifically for intake / egr / dpf / turbo cleaning or is all that type stuff snake oil?

 

[Rusty PW]

It may have been a bad batch (poor water to urea ratio). I don't blame you for taking it back. However, it probably would have been fine had you added it to your existing system. To keep the system hydrated with water, I keep the DEF tank topped off. By keeping the DEF tank full, there's less air spare for evaporation. Evaporation is a major cause of crystallization. So far, we haven't had any DEF quality issues in the 10 years we've owned and operated diesels.

When my level gets to half full. I fill it up. At work. We have had trouble with bad DEF fluid.

 

[biodiesel]

Oh man, they look good but I can't rationalize spending twice as much when I already spend over $700 just on oil.

The more expensive oils will last longer with lower wear rates, but I can understand your position, especially if you're on a budget.

Side note, are there any reliable treatments specifically for intake / egr / dpf / turbo cleaning or is all that type stuff snake oil?

EGR coolers are too expensive to remove and clean. I'd suggest replacing the EGR cooler when it becomes clogged. In my case, I will probably change the EGR cooler on my Ram 1500 somewhere between 80,000 - 90,000 miles as preventative maintenance since that truck is a designated tow rig.

We've already talked about the DPF. Running a low or mid SAPS oil will extend the service life.

The best thing you can do for the turbo is to run the proper oil and allow a hot turbo a few minutes to cooldown before turning off the engine. We've seen factory turbos in the Gen 2 EcoDiesel last 200,000, 300,000, and 400,000 miles.

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