Engine died during water crossing

[Maximus Gladius]

I'm not really knowledgeable on how to change water in the AT…

I’d make some calls on that one cause this one is expensive either by SEVERAL pan drops to clear the torque converter and the cooler and really, how many partial oil changes would it take to clear all the water out, can’t even imagine.

If one was to go by the ambiguous book that says ‘if the oil is contaminated with water etc, change the oil’. Is it saying via many pan drops or is it recommending a flush? Who knows?? This is where FCA would have to tell the OP how to best do this OR contact ZF in Germany and get their recommendation.

I did a flush on the first transmission that had glycol contamination in it and the flush used 17 quarts. I think the cost for a litre up here in Canada is $45-50/litre.

I would go the most cheapest route first and get an oil analysis at blackstone labs or Polaris labs FIRST and not guess on this one.

At least the other components (diffs, transfer case) hold around 1.5 quarts or so. It would be a good time to pop the diff covers and clean the locker magnets off at the same time if PO has lockers. (Gaskets are reusable)

Sponsored

 

[GOT FLOYD]

30" is the limit - half-way up the door sounds like more than 30" lift or no lift.
Agreed on changing the fluids of the differentials and t-case and transmission unless you are dead-sure that all vents were well above the water at all times - and bet you can't be really sure.
Something got wet that shouldn't be wet, sent the system into a tizzy (like perhaps wires to sensors got wet giving crazy readings to the PCM, etc.


Mine was because I left the car sitting under the maple tree out front for the night because the forecast was for 0% chance of rain, clear sky, etc.
Got up the next AM and found we got over 5" in one hour through the night.
Pulled spark plugs and water shot out over 30 feet when I gave the starter a quick bump.
Changed the oil 3 times that day, lucky as heck.

Things can bend and break if you get into a hydro-lock situation. I've seen bent and busted rods.
Totally agree - worth every minute and every dollar to change fluids after that.
It was only the third time that I could say there were no signs at all of any water in the crankcase or starbucks coffee in the oil filler tube on my car.

Nice Javelin!

 

[dcmdon]

Fixed it. Ha. oops

I'm not really knowledgeable on how to change OIL in the AT, transfer case, and diffs.

 

[obrianmcc]

I’d make some calls on that one cause this one is expensive either by SEVERAL pan drops to clear the torque converter and the cooler and really, how many partial oil changes would it take to clear all the water out, can’t even imagine.

If one was to go by the ambiguous book that says ‘if the oil is contaminated with water etc, change the oil’. Is it saying via many pan drops or is it recommending a flush? Who knows?? This is where FCA would have to tell the OP how to best do this OR contact ZF in Germany and get their recommendation.

I did a flush on the first transmission that had glycol contamination in it and the flush used 17 quarts. I think the cost for a litre up here in Canada is $45-50/litre.

I would go the most cheapest route first and get an oil analysis at blackstone labs or Polaris labs FIRST and not guess on this one.

At least the other components (diffs, transfer case) hold around 1.5 quarts or so. It would be a good time to pop the diff covers and clean the locker magnets off at the same time if PO has lockers. (Gaskets are reusable)

In Moab this past year we came upon a stretch of water that when we attempted to cross I stopped and backed out when my 35's disappeared. Changed fluid later and all was fine. I since relocated the diff breathers to under the hood and correct me if I'm wrong but the trans breather is already on top of the engine. I wasn't able to locate a breather for the transfer case. Your trans is probably fine ... the plug is on the side above the pan. You an easily inspect the fluid.

 

[Sunnysideup]

The Transfer case vent can be re-located too. Its near the front on top of TC and it sits level with top of transer case... you can extend it to engine compartment too!

 

[troverman]

When driving slow and steady into deep water with a vehicle, you create a small bow wave like in a boat. This will slightly lower the level of the water inside the engine bay, usually by a few inches, compared to the outside water level.

 

[MemphisMississipp]

Hey, this is my first post and I’m learning about my jeep so go easy on me.

last Sunday night I crossed a flooded creek on the OOAT and it killed my engine. Water was half way up my door (3.5” lift on 37”s).

I grabbed my winch controller and jumped out my window. I took my winch one and swam to the bank swam back and put the winch in gear, and winched it out.

I thought I had destroyed my favorite toy but after eating 30 min, my headlights turned back on and I started it up.

I had a check engine light until I got to camp and started it the next morning, now the engine light is off, and it runs perfect.

questions:

1. Did I just get lucky or is there a safety device that shut it down before it drank creek water?

2. should I be concerned about anything/have anything checked out?

Before I get a lecture, trust me nobody could be more acutely aware of how lucky he is and how dumb that crossing attempt was.

Thanks

Saw a dude on video having fun running 2 foot water in new gladiator. Crossing the creek for a third time at higher speed, stuck in middle of creek. Discovered water in the oil and pulled to the shore. The hose clamp on the breather was loose. I felt for the dude

Sponsored