Extra wear from larger tires

[LostWoods]

So far, can anyone give specific parts to look after and signs of wear? I’ll even be happy with a list of parts and use other sources to see about signs of wear and repair

Just pay attention to steering and ball joints. Easiest way is to put the front up on jackstands under the axle and have someone wiggle the wheel rapidly (just like 11-1 back and forth) while you wrap your hand around the steering joints. Pivoting is good, popping you can feel is not. For the ball joints, you'll need a 2x4 or a long prybar. Just pin it under the wheel and lift while looking/feeling ball joints. If you feel them popping or see them moving other than their normal rotation, it's time to upgrade.

Steering is the worst because when it wears, you get the death wobble. If you have the budget and wheel regularly, I'd just start upgrading parts to Synergy or SteerSmarts stuff around 30k or so just to be safe. The steering on these is better than in the past but it's still not something I'd trust long term.

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[PyrPatriot]

So every Jeep i have had when JK's came out after lifting properly with 35" tires the front end parts that are non serviceable, get way too much slop at 30,000 miles. so i replace tie-rod, drag-link, track bar also swaybar links with Synergy , Metalcloak, JKS or rockkrawler , Yetti. most are 1 ton spec parts. & serviceable. i have replaced all that on my Gladiator before 5,000 miles . except my tie-rod and that's next. ball joints can go soon if you wheel a lot & hard. rear brakes wear quickly on JK around 30,000miles but JT have a lot bigger brakes. i also got the synergy sector shaft brace just to stiffen up steering box . then just check all bolts regularly.

hmmmm, would replacing these at 50k be too late? I just hate to start throwing more money on a financed truck I have had only 7 months/20k miles

thank you for giving ways to “keep an eye out” on things. I have 0 car knowledge but am learning.

 

[PyrPatriot]

Just pay attention to steering and ball joints. Easiest way is to put the front up on jackstands under the axle and have someone wiggle the wheel rapidly (just like 11-1 back and forth) while you wrap your hand around the steering joints. Pivoting is good, popping you can feel is not. For the ball joints, you'll need a 2x4 or a long prybar. Just pin it under the wheel and lift while looking/feeling ball joints. If you feel them popping or see them moving other than their normal rotation, it's time to upgrade.

Steering is the worst because when it wears, you get the death wobble. If you have the budget and wheel regularly, I'd just start upgrading parts to Synergy or SteerSmarts stuff around 30k or so just to be safe. The steering on these is better than in the past but it's still not something I'd trust long term.

Bases on the explanations in this article, where are the steering joints?
https://www.autoblog.com/2020/03/04/2020-jeep-wrangle-rubicon-suspension-deep-dive/

 

[LostWoods]

Bases on the explanations in this article, where are the steering joints?
https://www.autoblog.com/2020/03/04/2020-jeep-wrangle-rubicon-suspension-deep-dive/

All the yellow circles I added below. Basically it's each end of the three major components:

1. Track Bar
2. Drag Link
3. Tie Rod

When you go to upgrade steering, you'll replace those three and be good to go. Just make sure that when you do, they are serviceable to at least allow greasing but even better, rebuilding the joints themselves.

 

[Texops]

hmmmm, would replacing these at 50k be too late? I just hate to start throwing more money on a financed truck I have had only 7 months/20k miles

thank you for giving ways to “keep an eye out” on things. I have 0 car knowledge but am learning.

yours could last that long who knows . they hardly ever break being unsafe you'll know when you get deathwobble after hitting a bump in the road . just inspect your play every now and then .

 

[Bob502000]

What is the extra wear from having 35s, and from 37s? It seems the consensus is that 35s will cause less extra wear compared to 37s, which often weigh only a couple pounds more than 35s.

What are the parts that will wear out faster now that I have heavy Falken 35s on my rig? How do I know signs of wear to replace said parts? At about what mileage of road driving and weekly forest road off road driving (almost no rock crawling, though some roads have rocks) will I need to replace what?

37s here and death wobble brand new. Adjustable front track bar (rub ex) and a steer smarts drag link. Back yard toe in adjust and it works fine now. Might go for the steer smarts tie rod some day but its working good now.

 

[PyrPatriot]

37s here and death wobble brand new. Adjustable front track bar (rub ex) and a steer smarts drag link. Back yard toe in adjust and it works fine now. Might go for the steer smarts tie rod some day but its working good now.

You mean you have new death wobble now or as soon as you went up to 37s? This is the first I am hearing of folks having problems like that with 37s

 

[Bob502000]

You mean you have new death wobble now or as soon as you went up to 37s? This is the first I am hearing of folks having problems like that with 37s

Got it from the dealer with the lift and 37s. Its had pre death wobble right away and when I hit the right man hole cover it went to full blown death wobble. I did a lot of reading on the subject and when I called the dealer, all they would do is replace the steering components with the same stuff. The stock stuff might be ok for stock tires. I could grab the drag link and rattle it up and down with my hand and could see the difference the lift made on the side to side alignment so I decided to upgrade to heavy duty drag link and adjustable track bar made of solid cast iron. When you get the stock stuff off and look at it, it makes you glad to have replaced them (light weight and crimped ends). Still want to replace the tie rod but just the other two parts fixed it. Toe in was way off as well, like a quarter of an inch so that prolly helped as well.

 

[PyrPatriot]

Got it from the dealer with the lift and 37s. Its had pre death wobble right away and when I hit the right man hole cover it went to full blown death wobble. I did a lot of reading on the subject and when I called the dealer, all they would do is replace the steering components with the same stuff. The stock stuff might be ok for stock tires. I could grab the drag link and rattle it up and down with my hand and could see the difference the lift made on the side to side alignment so I decided to upgrade to heavy duty drag link and adjustable track bar made of solid cast iron. When you get the stock stuff off and look at it, it makes you glad to have replaced them (light weight and crimped ends). Still want to replace the tie rod but just the other two parts fixed it. Toe in was way off as well, like a quarter of an inch so that prolly helped as well.

Wow. Never read that before. Is it because they are 37s? Or the weight?

 

[Bob502000]

Wow. Never read that before. Is it because they are 37s? Or the weight?

12.50 inches wide as well. Put (JL death wobble) in the internet search box and see all the info and videos. Use JL because they been around a while longer and the same as JT anyways.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

My JTR got exponentially better after 37x13.50's on 20x10 wheels with a -24mm offset...Basically extending the track-width of the Jeep. And it got even better after adding the the Fox TS 2.0 steering stabilizer. I imagine it will get even better once I install all the EVO Mfg stuff for the front end I have sitting in boxes right now, waiting on my rear 1.5" JKS springs to ship... They're taking FOREVER!

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