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FAD Missing

Iwanajeep131

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Thank you all for your help. I appreciate it. Had service 4wd light come on and I thought the 2 piece rcv was the reason.
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JTGuy

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So they removed the FAD? I thought. that was a big MPG thing. So now caster angle will be a large factor again when lifting. A lift with proper caster can cause driveshaft vibes.
 

WILDHOBO

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So they removed the FAD? I thought. that was a big MPG thing. So now caster angle will be a large factor again when lifting. A lift with proper caster can cause driveshaft vibes.
It’s a big reason I’m glad mine isn’t a 24+
 

Zachanadandy

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So they removed the FAD? I thought. that was a big MPG thing. So now caster angle will be a large factor again when lifting. A lift with proper caster can cause driveshaft vibes.
I doubt it's much of an impact on mpg at all which is why they dropped it. As far as the caster and vibrations, the rzeppa joints are very tolerant of angle mismatches. If you go to an aftermarket ujoint shaft then you'll likely have issues. You can buy the actuator motor and install a switch to make your FAD functional if you run into issues.
 

JTGuy

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Or just install a D-60 with hubs. Maybe a Pro Rock 44 with hubs.
 

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GerryAZ

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Although I don’t plan to lift my 2026 Willys ā€˜41 Edition, I am glad it has the FAD to reduce wear/tear on the front driveshaft and axle U-joints (and maybe help gas mileage just a little).

My 1988 Comanche had the vacuum-operated disconnect. The only trouble I had with the FAD in 33 years and 200,000 miles was one time when the vacuum line was knocked loose by a tire shop during tire rotation (normal operation restored by reconnecting the line). There is no load on the spider gears and axle U-joints so they spin freely and long-term wear is no issue with proper lubrication.
 

WILDHOBO

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Although I don’t plan to lift my 2026 Willys ā€˜41 Edition, I am glad it has the FAD to reduce wear/tear on the front driveshaft and axle U-joints (and maybe help gas mileage just a little).

My 1988 Comanche had the vacuum-operated disconnect. The only trouble I had with the FAD in 33 years and 200,000 miles was one time when the vacuum line was knocked loose by a tire shop during tire rotation (normal operation restored by reconnecting the line). There is no load on the spider gears and axle U-joints so they spin freely and long-term wear is no issue with proper lubrication.
I really like having the fad. Yes. If I had aftermarket axles, I’d do locking hubs instead. But some way of preventing that driveshaft from rotating needlessly. I don’t care about the gas mileage, as it’s no long my daily, and I doubt it would be noticeable anyway. It’s the wear and tear.
 

DylanM

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Less wear and tear on the front driveshaft at the expense of having a weaker axle housing and more potential failure points. Not a good trade in my opinion. I'd rather they'd used the simpler setup as used in the TJ, but will just deal with whatever issues pop up with what we got.
 

WILDHOBO

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Less wear and tear on the front driveshaft at the expense of having a weaker axle housing and more potential failure points. Not a good trade in my opinion. I'd rather they'd used the simpler setup as used in the TJ, but will just deal with whatever issues pop up with what we got.
Lifted the rezeppa joints don’t survive. I’ve murdered two of them. I finally put a 1350 on. Those are not happy at high speeds so I’m happy I have the disconnect.
 

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Zachanadandy

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Less wear and tear on the front driveshaft at the expense of having a weaker axle housing and more potential failure points. Not a good trade in my opinion. I'd rather they'd used the simpler setup as used in the TJ, but will just deal with whatever issues pop up with what we got.
I think the wear and tear argument is ridiculous anyway. It's not like there's load on any of the front drive components even without the FAD in 2wd. What wear are you saving? The pinion bearings? Everything else still rotates as the stub shafts are attached to the wheels. Further the rear end is always under load and yet you aren't burning through rear ends every 20k miles? How much wear are we really talking about? At 200k miles you may need to rebuild the rear but the front will still have a few miles left on it...if it hasn't broken or bent at the FAD housing by then? It has its advantages for drive shaft angles that aren't great (although if you screw that up too bad what do you do when it's snowing on the freeway). Given the choice I'd take the strength of a single piece axle tube on the passenger side.
 

WILDHOBO

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I think the wear and tear argument is ridiculous anyway. It's not like there's load on any of the front drive components even without the FAD in 2wd. What wear are you saving? The pinion bearings? Everything else still rotates as the stub shafts are attached to the wheels. Further the rear end is always under load and yet you aren't burning through rear ends every 20k miles? How much wear are we really talking about? At 200k miles you may need to rebuild the rear but the front will still have a few miles left on it...if it hasn't broken or bent at the FAD housing by then? It has its advantages for drive shaft angles that aren't great (although if you screw that up too bad what do you do when it's snowing on the freeway). Given the choice I'd take the strength of a single piece axle tube on the passenger side.
Only the driveshaft and transfer case output. As far as I’m concerned, that’s the wear. No biggie if not lifted. But lifted those oem driveshafts can’t handle it.
 

Zachanadandy

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Only the driveshaft and transfer case output. As far as I’m concerned, that’s the wear. No biggie if not lifted. But lifted those oem driveshafts can’t handle it.
My JT has been lifted since 1100 miles and on 37s. It's at 53k miles now. The front driveshaft is still fine. It's drooping too far that kills them. With the mojave shocks and shock extensions mine doesn't droop far enough to bother it. Yes I'm giving up a fair amount of downtravel, but we have the wife's JLUR for the extreme rock trails. Works great on moderate to hard trails and out in the desert at speed which is my main concern for this truck. If the rzeppa joints failed quicker from simply turning on the road in 2wd, the rear wouldn't last.
 

WILDHOBO

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My JT has been lifted since 1100 miles and on 37s. It's at 53k miles now. The front driveshaft is still fine. It's drooping too far that kills them. With the mojave shocks and shock extensions mine doesn't droop far enough to bother it. Yes I'm giving up a fair amount of downtravel, but we have the wife's JLUR for the extreme rock trails. Works great on moderate to hard trails and out in the desert at speed which is my main concern for this truck. If the rzeppa joints failed quicker from simply turning on the road in 2wd, the rear wouldn't last.
The rears don’t handle lots of droop great either. But a carrier bearing spacer helps. Mines also been lifted since close to new on 37’s. The front angle is severe even at ride height. You pretty much get a choice between spring bow and driveline angle unfortunately. I chose spring bow since the driveshaft doesn’t move unless I’m in 4wd.
 

Stan H

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The rears don’t handle lots of droop great either. But a carrier bearing spacer helps. Mines also been lifted since close to new on 37’s. The front angle is severe even at ride height. You pretty much get a choice between spring bow and driveline angle unfortunately. I chose spring bow since the driveshaft doesn’t move unless I’m in 4wd.
Are you running a Dauble Cardain in the rear @WILDHOBO , and are ypu running without a carrier bearing? Or is that even possible? šŸ¤”
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