"Flipped" Rear Sway Bar

[ajkaz]

Does anyone make a kit that relocates the sway bar to the top of the underneath of the Bed?

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[hjdca]

Both Rock Jock Anti-Rock and Teraflex make great kits. No more bending end links in the rocks. I have the Anti-Rock and love it. Teraflex came out recently (looks like the anti-rock) and has a lower price point.

 

[jeep1]

https://www.rockjock4x4.com/RJ-256200-103

If you are carrying any weight at all, get the "Heavy" version. Pretty straightforward install.

 

[RacerAV]

Antirock gets my vote! But would be nice for a factory parts flip kit, agreed...

 

[fourfa]

I have the Teraflex kit, as part of their extended rear travel kit. High quality parts all around.

Install wasn’t strictly bolt on - you need to drill a few extra holes in the axle bracketry and frame, and be careful to make sure everything lines up properly. Drilling the hardened frame is best with a small carbide drill to pilot the hole, then a quality step drill to enlarge to size. Cutting fluid and find the right RPM too

 

[Renegade]

I have the Teraflex kit, as part of their extended rear travel kit. High quality parts all around.

Install wasn’t strictly bolt on - you need to drill a few extra holes in the axle bracketry and frame, and be careful to make sure everything lines up properly. Drilling the hardened frame is best with a small carbide drill to pilot the hole, then a quality step drill to enlarge to size. Cutting fluid and find the right RPM too

I don’t want to hijack this thread, but I think the OP’s question was answered. How do you like the TF system? Any downside to it, like rear ground clearance?

 

[fourfa]

Loving it so far! I have a tall, heavy camper, and I could see some users wanting more roll stiffness for that use case (the TF kit is near stock rate). Between the roll bar, heavy rear spring (Clayton HD), rear track bar relocation (TF also), and shock rates all the way up, I’m very happy with it on pavement. But still flexes out easily in the rocks.

I guess technically ground clearance is a fraction of an inch less under the rear axle where the new brackets clamp around the axle housing? But out near the hub where it matters least. More importantly, the links to the torsion bar are very tight to the axle instead of dangling low back behind the axle like stock. There’s no way to make contact on the links now, big improvement.

Downsides - +2.5” bumpstop is absolutely required. The arms will hit the inner fender sheet metal if you don’t. So I guess if you aren’t pairing it with a suspension setup that gives you more droop, that could be a downside. I paired the TF 16” travel kit with the 3.5-4.5 Falcons, which are a perfect match for lengths, and basically gave up 2.5” of uptravel to gain 6” of downtravel. This setup droops like crazy now. The big Clayton coils haven’t bottomed out hard on me yet, despite the camper. So it all seems to be working together well

 

[ajkaz]

Loving it so far! I have a tall, heavy camper, and I could see some users wanting more roll stiffness for that use case (the TF kit is near stock rate). Between the roll bar, heavy rear spring (Clayton HD), rear track bar relocation (TF also), and shock rates all the way up, I’m very happy with it on pavement. But still flexes out easily in the rocks.

I guess technically ground clearance is a fraction of an inch less under the rear axle where the new brackets clamp around the axle housing? But out near the hub where it matters least. More importantly, the links to the torsion bar are very tight to the axle instead of dangling low back behind the axle like stock. There’s no way to make contact on the links now, big improvement.

Downsides - +2.5” bumpstop is absolutely required. The arms will hit the inner fender sheet metal if you don’t. So I guess if you aren’t pairing it with a suspension setup that gives you more droop, that could be a downside. I paired the TF 16” travel kit with the 3.5-4.5 Falcons, which are a perfect match for lengths, and basically gave up 2.5” of uptravel to gain 6” of downtravel. This setup droops like crazy now. The big Clayton coils haven’t bottomed out hard on me yet, despite the camper. So it all seems to be working together well

This is great info! Thanks! 2.5" of added bump stop is a tough one for me, I dont think I can make that compromise at the moment. We'll see that direction the build goes.

Appreciate the in depth review.

 

[fourfa]

FYI the TF comes with fixed length rear links that are sized for their extended travel kit. I think if you just want the TF sway bar alone, you could get adjustable rear links and set the length to match your bumps. You probably wouldn’t have to worry about overflexing in droop because you wouldn’t have that much droop. But this is not professional advice - you’d have to pull the springs and one swaybar arm at a time and flex it all the way out with jacks to be sure

 

[JTenn]

Both Rock Jock Anti-Rock and Teraflex make great kits. No more bending end links in the rocks. I have the Anti-Rock and love it. Teraflex came out recently (looks like the anti-rock) and has a lower price point.

Got my new end link today,

To replace this fully snapped one.

It does happen!!

 

[fourfa]

Following up regarding bump stop requirements... I read through the Anti-Rock instructions. They don't require or mention bump stops. They come with adjustable end links, and require you to measure and flex out everything yourself, not much guidance on what length to cut the link for any given suspension set up. But the basic setup is very similar - if you get it wrong, you will definitely punch the arms through the sheet metal in your bed.

IMO there's basically no fundamental difference in terms of bump stop requirements - with Teraflex they supply fixed end links that require 2.5" of bump stop, but you can buy your own adjustable end links and use whatever setup you want. Rockjock supplies adjustable links, that you have to cut to length, and leave it up to you not to end up with interference.

 

[Free2roam]

Both Rock Jock Anti-Rock and Teraflex make great kits. No more bending end links in the rocks. I have the Anti-Rock and love it. Teraflex came out recently (looks like the anti-rock) and has a lower price point.

What's your lift and tire size? The Rubicon is in my backyard but I'll never do it. Not into that type of off roading. More of a camping rig getting away from people if it's possible. Probably only going to lift it maybe 2.5 Clayton Overland kit HD springs max 35's. Apex disconnects on front and have a Helwig sway bar to install. But I do see how the Antirock would help. Advice? Thoughts?

 

[hjdca]

I have the Teraflex kit, as part of their extended rear travel kit. High quality parts all around.

Install wasn’t strictly bolt on - you need to drill a few extra holes in the axle bracketry and frame, and be careful to make sure everything lines up properly. Drilling the hardened frame is best with a small carbide drill to pilot the hole, then a quality step drill to enlarge to size. Cutting fluid and find the right RPM too

Note: the Rock Jock Anti-Rock kit does not require drilling into the frame.

 

[hjdca]

What's your lift and tire size? The Rubicon is in my backyard but I'll never do it. Not into that type of off roading. More of a camping rig getting away from people if it's possible. Probably only going to lift it maybe 2.5 Clayton Overland kit HD springs max 35's. Apex disconnects on front and have a Helwig sway bar to install. But I do see how the Antirock would help. Advice? Thoughts?

You can see my complete build by selecting the build link in my signature. I am running a stick shift JTR with a Clayton 3.5” overland plus kit, Falcon adjustable shocks, 37” tires, 5:13 gears, and all skids - control arms, diffs, engine, transfer case, exhaust loop. Good sliders are a must because you often have to pivot on a boulder to make a tight turn. The Rubicon trail is really fun, but, you need to have your rig prepared and go with other capable rigs. A winch is also a must.
There is really no way to avoid scrapping rims, sliders, & skids, so satin black parts are your friend and easy to touch up after the trip.
The Rock Jock Anti-Rock is great. Definitely worth it. I was bending end links all the time and they were Nickel and diming me constantly. I bent them up again at the Rubicon trail and decided to splurge on the anti-Rock. Note : You do not have to drill the frame with the anti-rock like you have to do with the new teraflex kit.
Also, it’s really good to have lockers, they make climbing some of the boulders much easier, and of course, sway bar disconnects are a must. You need as much articulation as possible to avoid high centering.

 

[Free2roam]

You can see my complete build by selecting the build link in my signature. I am running a stick shift JTR with a Clayton 3.5” overland plus kit, Falcon adjustable shocks, 37” tires, 5:13 gears, and all skids - control arms, diffs, engine, transfer case, exhaust loop. Good sliders are a must because you often have to pivot on a boulder to make a tight turn. The Rubicon trail is really fun, but, you need to have your rig prepared and go with other capable rigs. A winch is also a must.
There is really no way to avoid scrapping rims, sliders, & skids, so satin black parts are your friend and easy to touch up after the trip.
The Rock Jock Anti-Rock is great. Definitely worth it. I was bending end links all the time and they were Nickel and diming me constantly. I bent them up again at the Rubicon trail and decided to splurge on the anti-Rock. Note : You do not have to drill the frame with the anti-rock like you have to do with the new teraflex kit.
Also, it’s really good to have lockers, they make climbing some of the boulders much easier, and of course, sway bar disconnects are a must. You need as much articulation as possible to avoid high centering.

So basically happy with the sway bar? Again the Rubicon may be in my backyard. But it's not something I'm even interested in doing.

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