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Fridge in bed on slide

darkhorse13

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Question, because I can't quite tell from your pics...could you slide the Rebel Offroad mount back along the rail so that the fridge sits closer to the cab, or would the wheel well interfere with the bracket? I'm not concerned with being able to extend the slide out past the tailgate, but rather looking for a platform for the fridge that doesn't require bolting through the floor.
If you don't have a bed rack or anything else using the bed rail channels you can move it anywhere. I have to mount mine between the bed rack points and could only slide back just a little bit more. The (2) mounting bolts on the platform base are pre-drilled and there's no movement there unless you re-drilled holes

Jeep Gladiator Fridge in bed on slide 1648674590791
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Shadowmaker

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I ended up fitting a piece of plywood into the bed. Bolted a fridge slide onto the board. This guy gave me ideas of how I fashioned mine.

 

arjeeper

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Can anyone confirm the ARB Elements 63 on a solid mount (no slide) will fit under a Diamondback SE?
 

Wolf Island Diver

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Thanks to everyone contributing to this thread. I got an ARB Classic II 63 based on this and it fits under my Diamondback HD.

I’ve go so much crap in my truck (recovery gear, camping stuff, PowerTank, Viking propane tank, etc., that there’s no room for it to slide around.

I don’t think I’m going to do a slider. Instead following the KISS principle, I’m going to get a piece of HDPE from my plastics supplier and mount it to the bottom to facilitate sliding it out more easily over the rough bed liner. I may fabricate some rails out of aluminum angle that will butt up against the HDPE like guard rails, to keep it from sliding around when there’s less stuff in the truck and just use rivnuts to attach them to the floor of the bed to facilitate removal. The tailgate will keep the fridge secure from the back. In order to open this fridge I have to slide it all the way out anyway so I don’t thing I can find a slider that long.

The one thing that I struggled with is the best way to power it. I debated between the GZ Yeti 500 and the Dometic PL40. GZ doesn’t do a really good job of making it clear what the Yeti can do. For example they claim it will power a standard fridge for about 6 hours. They don’t talk about these portable fridges. You also have to dig to find out if you can change it and power a fridge at the same time (you can). I was leaning towards the Dometic but the GZ is more versatile

I took the leap and I’m glad I did. With the Yeti 500 and can run the ARB for about 40 hours. In high temps, obviously that will go down. With the 120w fast charger, it will recharge in less than 4 hours. I keep the Yeti plugged into the inverter in the bed. I can stay at one camp site for about 2 days, move down the trail a bit and get another 2 days out of the fridge. Im pretty satisfied with this setup.

My only gripes are that ARBs temperature is significantly off. I just keep an AcuRite thermometer in the fridge and set the temp based on that. I also find that temps in the bed don’t get all that high. The ARB puts out very little heat when running. I can’t imagine a need for dual batteries anymore, not that there’s room with the diesel. I also wished the GZ had a Bluetooth app so I could monitor it from the cab like the ARB.


Jeep Gladiator Fridge in bed on slide 9D79597D-337C-4BDE-8B2D-99D63BF850B5
 

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Shadowmaker

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Thanks to everyone contributing to this thread. I got an ARB Classic II 63 based on this and it fits under my Diamondback HD.

I’ve go so much crap in my truck (recovery gear, camping stuff, PowerTank, Viking propane tank, etc., that there’s no room for it to slide around.

I don’t think I’m going to do a slider. Instead following the KISS principle, I’m going to get a piece of HDPE from my plastics supplier and mount it to the bottom to facilitate sliding it out more easily over the rough bed liner. I may fabricate some rails out of aluminum angle that will butt up against the HDPE like guard rails, to keep it from sliding around when there’s less stuff in the truck and just use rivnuts to attach them to the floor of the bed to facilitate removal. The tailgate will keep the fridge secure from the back. In order to open this fridge I have to slide it all the way out anyway so I don’t thing I can find a slider that long.

The one thing that I struggled with is the best way to power it. I debated between the GZ Yeti 500 and the Dometic PL40. GZ doesn’t do a really good job of making it clear what the Yeti can do. For example they claim it will power a standard fridge for about 6 hours. They don’t talk about these portable fridges. You also have to dig to find out if you can change it and power a fridge at the same time (you can). I was leaning towards the Dometic but the GZ is more versatile

I took the leap and I’m glad I did. With the Yeti 500 and can run the ARB for about 40 hours. In high temps, obviously that will go down. With the 120w fast charger, it will recharge in less than 4 hours. I keep the Yeti plugged into the inverter in the bed. I can stay at one camp site for about 2 days, move down the trail a bit and get another 2 days out of the fridge. Im pretty satisfied with this setup.

My only gripes are that ARBs temperature is significantly off. I just keep an AcuRite thermometer in the fridge and set the temp based on that. I also find that temps in the bed don’t get all that high. The ARB puts out very little heat when running. I can’t imagine a need for dual batteries anymore, not that there’s room with the diesel. I also wished the GZ had a Bluetooth app so I could monitor it from the cab like the ARB.


Jeep Gladiator Fridge in bed on slide IMG_6468 2.JPG
Tell me more about your Air setup? Will the GZ fit under the back seat?
 

Wolf Island Diver

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Tell me more about your Air setup? Will the GZ fit under the back seat?
Here’s the link to a thread about these DIY air setups.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...-down-system-with-powertank.49750/post-879507

@JBahr mounted his using the SmartCap. I piggybacked on his work and ran ports through penetrations in the bed to fit under my Diamondback cover. Both of us have write ups and links to parts.

I’m not sure about the GZ fitting under the seat. I replaced the box with this:

https://www.813fabrication.com/under-seat-bin

On the passenger side I have about 75lbs worth of tools in one of these:

https://www.atlas46.com/products.ht...etach-Tool-Roll/p/136876533/category=34912316

I think the GZ might fit. When I get a chance I will check. I have it in the bed so that I can plug the 120w charger into the bed inverter.
 

Shadowmaker

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Here’s the link to a thread about these DIY air setups.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...-down-system-with-powertank.49750/post-879507

@JBahr mounted his using the SmartCap. I piggybacked on his work and ran ports through penetrations in the bed to fit under my Diamondback cover. Both of us have write ups and links to parts.

I’m not sure about the GZ fitting under the seat. I replaced the box with this:

https://www.813fabrication.com/under-seat-bin

On the passenger side I have about 75lbs worth of tools in one of these:

https://www.atlas46.com/products.ht...etach-Tool-Roll/p/136876533/category=34912316

I think the GZ might fit. When I get a chance I will check. I have it in the bed so that I can plug the 120w charger into the bed inverter.

Thanks for the info... I am considering a GZ or an Ecoflow
 

gimprota

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I was looking for something to put under the Tonneau cover and ended up with a Rough Country 45L fridge that is about 17" high and costs half of the more common brands.

I have had a Dometic and an ARB in the past, we will see how this compares.
For me, height was a key factor, and traveling alone most of the time I didn't need more than 50l (in my research it seems there are a lot more refrigerators over 50l that are below 20" height), so this checks all the boxes.
It has an LG compressor, which should be decent long-term, and even if it is not as refined as the other brands, for less than half the price I'll try it.

Just another option to add to the list.
 

Wolf Island Diver

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I now have some more experience with the ARB in high temps (85-92) in an enclosed bed packed with other gear. In short it works. It makes the inside of the bed hot which affects what I can put in my food box (Roam 52L). Chocolate is not a good idea 🥴. The ARB can still maintain 31 degrees which meats my needs. It’s only left in the packed bed with the tailgate closed when moving which is when the GZ is plugged into the inverter. When I stop and set up camp, the fridge gets slid out onto the tailgate. With the weight distribution of the fridge I find that it can cantilever out so that it’s back side is flush with the outside edge of the Diamondback without it tumbling off the tailgate.

I’m finding that running off the GZ in 85+ temps, run times are roughly down to probably a day and a half, but I’ve now got 120-140 effective watts of Solar so it’s not a concern. The long and short is that if you use this setup (Yeti 500x, ARB 63) and it’s hot and you’re staying more than a day, you need solar which shouldn’t be surprising.

I’m not sure what the effect on the fridge with less ventilation is long term. It doesn’t run like this for weeks, only less than a day at a time, but I can only assume it stresses the compressor. Also it makes the inside of the bed hot. I’d like to investigate active bed ventilation but I actually need better sealing or positive pressure to keep dust out. Those needs might work at cross purposes.

All that crap below (roam box, orange wood box, pizza oven!, cookpartner stove w/ griddle, roll top table way in the back) goes in the bed along with a Alps guide table, cleanwaste toilet, the GZ, worthington AL propane tank in a PowerTank bracket, 15lb PowerTank and a chainsaw. There’s a large recovery gear bag and spill kit forward of the fridge. That bag (x-large ATC gear bag) with a massive Factor55 Kinetic alone takes up 1/4 of the bed
Jeep Gladiator Fridge in bed on slide 70F3FCDA-3208-4268-98E3-B65F517C6304

The NATO cans go in the enclosed compartment I fabricated between the Front Runner and the Diamondback along with chairs, Discata and other random stuff.

I’m going to fabricate a pivoting table for the Mountain Hatch tailgate cover, probably out of real baltic birch with a monopod support leg, so I can get rid of the Alps table and I’ve switched to gas on the ooni so I don’t need to bring wood. I’m always trying to reduce how much stuff I bring while maximizing the luxuries.
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