Front sway bar end links, quick disconnects

[Wheelin98TJ]

You need to go full droop to know for sure and the MC lift is known to droop. You want just enough angle to it to ensure it doesn't invert.

1. Jack the truck at the frame so the entire front is hanging
2. Draw an imaginary line in your mind extending the endlink on the swaybar side
3. Set your swaybar link length so that the angle between that imaginary line and the swaybar is around 10-15 degrees.

If as a result of this your bar is pointing downward, I would go level to frame. If it's pointing upward then leave it as is. Mine is pointing a good ways upward with the 3.5" MC lift and springs.

As for the track bar, that's a good way to get in trouble if you don't know what you're doing. You have to disconnect the MC design to adjust (good because it doesn't slip over time like a sleeve can) but it will fight you getting it back in. There's some easy tricks involving tie down straps and other things but I'd watch videos and be sure you're ready for that.

The easiest trick to shift the front axle is to turn the steering wheel.

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[Rubi-Zero]

The easiest trick to shift the front axle is to turn the steering wheel.

Yep, if you need to adjust the track bar, it’s easy to get it to line back up with someone in the cab turning the steering wheel slowly back and forth until you get the bolt in.

 

[LostWoods]

The easiest trick to shift the front axle is to turn the steering wheel.

Works if you have someone handy but a ratchet strap is the easiest way solo if you don't have the strength to muscle it into place yourself. I try not to bother the wife for anything I can do in a minute or two and I generally assume people are doing work solo lest they find themselves needing to do something simple that requires 4 hands or two bodies.

 

[Lunentucker]

If you have a winch you can use that.
If you have a wench you can use that.

 

[Oneshotlucky]

Maybe the track bar is too long and pushing the axle toward the passenger side. As long as nothing is bent I'd try and shorten the track bar a little and put some miles on it to try and get the axle centered before swapping anything. I agree with you completely - if that's truly the axle's resting state, new end links will get worn out quick.

When I go to shorten the track bar I assume I will need alignment after? Also I have read I will need to get the steering wheel straight too! That’s a drag link adjustment after getting the axle centered. So when I go to measure and say the passenger side is an inch out, do I shorten it a half inch or the full inch? I’m thinking the difference needs split so I don’t push it to the driver side too much? I’m over thinking this ain’t I?

 

[Oneshotlucky]

Am I the only one that sees the difference in the offset in the tire to fender photos. Looks like a good .75 to 1 inch to the passenger side. I’d be dialing that in first. Questionable thing is who installed it. They were sure to paint pen the nut and track bar. They just forgot to measure.

Just measured from a common point on the frame to the outside of the tire. Driver side = 19.75 Passenger side = 21.0 it is 1.25 inches more on the passenger side! Soooo, to center the axle do I shorten the track bar by 1.25 or divide that by 2 so they are equal left and right? Never attempted this before!

 

[OHJeeper]

Just measured from a common point on the frame to the outside of the tire. Driver side = 19.75 Passenger side = 21.0 it is 1.25 inches more on the passenger side! Soooo, to center the axle do I shorten the track bar by 1.25 or divide that by 2 so they are equal left and right? Never attempted this before!

Divide in half. and as others have said, mount the passenger side link to the inside of the mounting tab like you did on the driver's side.

 

[OHJeeper]

... and you will likely need to adjust the drag link so the steering wheel is recentered.

 

[Lunentucker]

Drive it some after you move it and then check it again. It doesn't have to be perfect but it will help with making those disconnects work more smoothly.

 

[Lunentucker]

If it's the stock drag link you'll do the following rotations when looking from the front of the vehicle.

Rotate up and away to move steering wheel left.
Rotate down and towards front to move it to the right.

That's clockwise from driver's side to move left.
Counterclockwise from driver's side to move right.

 

[OHJeeper]

If it's the stock drag link you'll do the following rotations when looking from the front of the vehicle.

Rotate up and away to move steering wheel left.
Rotate down and towards front to move it to the right.

That's clockwise from driver's side to move left.
Counterclockwise from driver's side to move right.

No matter how many times I have done this, I always go the wrong way the first turn

 

[Lunentucker]

No matter how many times I have done this, I always go the wrong way the first turn

Hahaha. That's why I made a note last time and saved it.
If he has a turnbuckle it's the opposite I believe.

 

[Dougstdig]

Just measured from a common point on the frame to the outside of the tire. Driver side = 19.75 Passenger side = 21.0 it is 1.25 inches more on the passenger side! Soooo, to center the axle do I shorten the track bar by 1.25 or divide that by 2 so they are equal left and right? Never attempted this before!

Others beat me to it…sorry I couldn’t beat the end of a tough week nap. The sand man came and popped me in the forebrain.

What the others said is correct. I’d split the difference then measure again and fine tune it if needed. Now’s the time to get it spot on. You should also check the rear end. You can determine if it needs a track bar or a relocation bracket. If you do need one, I’d recommend the bar from Clayton. It has an upward bend in the middle that leans forward allowing you extra room to run up to a 37 to 38 inch spare in the stock location without it rubbing as the suspension cycles.

 

[LostWoods]

Just measured from a common point on the frame to the outside of the tire. Driver side = 19.75 Passenger side = 21.0 it is 1.25 inches more on the passenger side! Soooo, to center the axle do I shorten the track bar by 1.25 or divide that by 2 so they are equal left and right? Never attempted this before!

Be warned, the tires are generally a terrible place to measure because they turn in a way that will add to one side while subtracting from the other. If you are going to use them, make sure you are using a point above or below the knuckle where that difference is minimized but generally you want to use a point on the axle itself.

The amount to shorten/lengthen isn't exact as the angle of the track bar varies based on your ride height. If you need to move it an inch, you are realistically going to be changing he track bar closer to a bit over 3/4". The only time it's 1:1 is when the bar is perfectly perpendicular and that's not a thing on a 4wd in most cases.

But you have the right idea. If you see a difference of 1.25" side to side you'll halve that and go from there... I'd personally do about a half inch then see what you get.

 

[Oneshotlucky]

Be warned, the tires are generally a terrible place to measure because they turn in a way that will add to one side while subtracting from the other. If you are going to use them, make sure you are using a point above or below the knuckle where that difference is minimized but generally you want to use a point on the axle itself.

The amount to shorten/lengthen isn't exact as the angle of the track bar varies based on your ride height. If you need to move it an inch, you are realistically going to be changing he track bar closer to a bit over 3/4". The only time it's 1:1 is when the bar is perfectly perpendicular and that's not a thing on a 4wd in most cases.

But you have the right idea. If you see a difference of 1.25" side to side you'll halve that and go from there... I'd personally do about a half inch then see what you get.

I did it! Went 1/2 inch shorter and it is pretty damn straight. I left the Quick Disco pin on the outside and really had to shorten the Link. About the same as driver side. I can take the disco off by hand. Still have to push it on with a lever but I can live with it. Got the steering wheel perfect! Drove around and checked everything and all is well. No pull left or right. Went up to 80 MPH still good, no vibration or wiggle.

Now next steps.
1.) My sway bar at rest is at a 29 degree angle??? That cant be right, right? Maybe need shorter Quick discos soon?
2.) To be safe get an alignment now I assume?

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