Genesis Dual Battery - 3.6 non-etorque HELP

[MidbestKid]

Watched the video from genesis. Thought I did everything correctly.

Truck just cranks and cranks and won't start. Also an issue with my HVAC (still works when I switch to run mode) and heated seats (seat button doesn't function) and I have a check engine light.

Because the wiring is so wonky, only thing I don't have plugged in is the auxiliary negative standalone cable (one that ran to tiny aux battery I think), but those three tiny prongs aren't allowing me to place it onto the negative cables and tighten the nut down. Hole is also too small for the 13mm nut/bolt.

My dash volts read 12.1, But because the starter is working, I'm wondering why it isn't turning over. Multimeter states both batteries at about 12.5 volts so those are alright.

What the hell did I do wrong? I have to go to work in the morning lol


Edit: Ok, as suspected, tiny battery negative does not need to be used and I will tape it up and tuck it away (has not been connected to anything thus far). I'm wondering if my voltage is just too low. I will try jump starting in the morning, as my battery tender isn't at my house right now.

Otherwise, I might just work backwards and ensure everything is hooked up properly.

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[Hootbro]

Getting a code read on the check engine light would probably help here to narrow down.

I think you either got something miswired or possibly a blown fuse on the fuse array on side of the fuse box.

 

[dirtdevil]

Just food for thought.. My brother had a similar issue. Was due to a main harness not fully seated. Reseated all of them and worked fine after that. For sanity check, disconnect batteries and
- recheck all main harnesses fully seated
- there’s a strip of non replaceable fuses at the studs of the fuse box. Ohm those out to make sure they work. Oh and FYI get yourself a spare of these strip fuses and carry with you. They are not available at the auto store. If these blow on the trail your stuck. These feed power into the fuse box.
- check rest of fuses
- if your using both primary and aux agm battery, make sure both are individually fully charged above 12.4vdc. When charging should be about 13vdc. Below 12v discharged or dead.

 

[MidbestKid]

Checked everything over this afternoon.

-No blown fuses (stud strip fuses seem fine)
-no out of the ordinary bent wire looms
-re-seated the boxes under the fuse box
-re-installed the fuse box
-got post clamps for cables closer to base of the stud
-turned topper to 'on' position
-jump started it. Not much happened

Multimeter now reads 12.1 (main) and 12.4 (auxiliary)

Truck is close to dead now. Key fob won't work, and I get the jeep logo on the main screen then it goes to black. Won't even try to turn over at this point.

Overnighted some fresh batteries from genesis. Should be here tomorrow (my wallet is crying). Will keep you updated. Thanks guys!

 

[dirtdevil]

Yes pls do. Dumb question. I’m assuming you don’t have a battery charger to charge up the current battery? On a side note. When you do swap the batteries use your DMM and check to make sure you’re getting 13.5vdc at the battery terminal when running. This will show that the alternator is charging.
Hate to also mention this.. I’m also assuming you have the stock battery? You could return back to stock to verify the system still is in proper operation status.

 

[MidbestKid]

New batteries did the trick.

Only problem now is it's throwing a check engine light when in the 'run' position. It comes on normally, but then it chimes and flashes once or twice, then goes back to the solid illumination that's normal in the run position.

That, and my backup camera won't come on when I switch to reverse. It just stays on whatever menu screen I'm in when I shift to reverse.

At least I can move it now!

 

[Hootbro]

Since you pulled and replaces the batteries, the radio reset to a default state and has to do a cold reboot. That is ignition off, doors locked and wait a few hours with overnight usually doing the trick and should reconfigure. Sometimes it has to be done twice.

What are the codes for the CEL?

 

[MidbestKid]

Since you pulled and replaces the batteries, the radio reset to a default state and has to do a cold reboot. That is ignition off, doors locked and wait a few hours with overnight usually doing the trick and should reconfigure. Sometimes it has to be done twice.

What are the codes for the CEL?

Yes, after letting the truck sit for a bit after a few cycles, everything seems to function normally now, but the codes are:

P2119-15 (electronic throttle related) - i'm wondering if when I disconnected the air box that it didn't throw this code. I may have overtightened or under tightened the clamp connecting the box to the intake tube, or something may have gotten moved or shaken.

U0184-00 (lost communication with radio) - Seems obvious, but I would assume this is due to the battery replacement.

I used the tazer mini to check the codes, and this was after I let the truck rest for maybe an hour or so after getting certain systems back (backup camera).

Edit: I should state that the check engine light only happens when ignition is in run position. I haven't checked for codes with the truck running, but the CEL goes away once you fully start the truck and it drives fine.

 

[dirtdevil]

Excellent news. Were you able to verify the charging status with your DMM? Don’t want to end up with dead batteries again. As to the CEL, that’s exactly what my brother experienced when he installed his Genesis. There were a few codes which we attributed to a pin in the harness not fully seated in the fuse box. Once the harness was reseated everything worked fine.
Also not sure if this is with all jeeps or just the newer ones. To clear the CEL, you can’t just connect the ODBII like on normal cars. Something about a security module. Had to go through the Taser to clear the CEL.

 

[MidbestKid]

For those wondering where to mount your switch-pro, I used the JT kit and simply inverted it. Only downside is you can't use 2 bolts for mounting plate unless you drill your own hole in the metal. Wires contact insulation underneath hood, but not to a worrying extent. Ground wire on backside works just fine.

OCD is going nuts with all these wires, and I will attempt to clean it up at some point, but it all works (for now).

Thanks for the help everyone!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

- if your using both primary and aux agm battery, make sure both are individually fully charged above 12.4vdc. When charging should be about 13vdc. Below 12v discharged or dead.

12.4 is quite low - about 60-70% depending on battery temperature. (state of charge at a given voltage level varies with temperatures)

AGM is typically 12.8 when fully charged IF you remove the surface charge. With surface charge it can be 13. Some AGM will state a full charge is 13 volts - so there's variations in AGM battery makers as to what constitutes a full charge.

Edit: I should state that the check engine light only happens when ignition is in run position. I haven't checked for codes with the truck running, but the CEL goes away once you fully start the truck and it drives fine.

What are you seeing for running voltages (engine running) and when shut down for a few hours (just curious, that's all)

 

[MidbestKid]

12.4 is quite low - about 60-70% depending on battery temperature. (state of charge at a given voltage level varies with temperatures)

AGM is typically 12.8 when fully charged IF you remove the surface charge. With surface charge it can be 13. Some AGM will state a full charge is 13 volts - so there's variations in AGM battery makers as to what constitutes a full charge.



What are you seeing for running voltages (engine running) and when shut down for a few hours (just curious, that's all)

14.8V when I started the truck up. Granted, I have the engine on connector from Genesis which "Connects batteries together 30 seconds after engine starts, leaves them connected unless voltage drops below 11.6v with engine on, or under 13.1v for 5 minutes with engine off".

With the ignition in 'run' position, I believe I saw 11.X volts. This is with the topper in the 'auto' setting. Green light wasn't illuminated, meaning batteries were separated until I started the engine. Did not check the status of the light after I turned the truck off, but I could hear it pop after a few minutes which i'm assuming means it's changing from connected to disconnected

 

[ShadowsPapa]

14.8V when I started the truck up. Granted, I have the engine on connector from Genesis which "Connects batteries together 30 seconds after engine starts, leaves them connected unless voltage drops below 11.6v with engine on, or under 13.1v for 5 minutes with engine off".

With the ignition in 'run' position, I believe I saw 11.X volts. This is with the topper in the 'auto' setting. Green light wasn't illuminated, meaning batteries were separated until I started the engine. Did not check the status of the light after I turned the truck off, but I could hear it pop after a few minutes which i'm assuming means it's changing from connected to disconnected

Mine has been running 14.9 when the temps are in the 20s to lower 30s and I bet you aren't far from those temperatures.
14.8 sounds reasonable.
You should, though, be sitting at over 12.6 when it's sitting, engine off - for the batteries to be fully charged.
Yeah, some solenoids, depending on how/where mounted and so on, can make a pop when engaged or disengaged. Sounds like that's working.
Anyway, glad it's running and the system voltage at 14.8 is quite reasonable.

 

[chorky]

For those wondering where to mount your switch-pro, I used the JT kit and simply inverted it. Only downside is you can't use 2 bolts for mounting plate unless you drill your own hole in the metal. Wires contact insulation underneath hood, but not to a worrying extent. Ground wire on backside works just fine.

OCD is going nuts with all these wires, and I will attempt to clean it up at some point, but it all works (for now).

Thanks for the help everyone!

Power trays also makes a really great option - I preferred it over the one your using from 813 simply because it frees up space, so the 813 mount can then be used later for other things.

Mine has been running 14.9 when the temps are in the 20s to lower 30s and I bet you aren't far from those temperatures.
14.8 sounds reasonable.
You should, though, be sitting at over 12.6 when it's sitting, engine off - for the batteries to be fully charged.
Yeah, some solenoids, depending on how/where mounted and so on, can make a pop when engaged or disengaged. Sounds like that's working.
Anyway, glad it's running and the system voltage at 14.8 is quite reasonable.

I saw 15v charging yesterday. Been sitting on a ctek charger all night, but it's below freezing.



OP:
Ok. A couple things here. First, I have a lot of info on this on my build thread and another forum thread if you can search and find them it might answer a lot of your questions.

• The video on the genesis website is not correct. They never got around to making a new updated one. The negative cable for the Aux battery is not needed and can be taped up and stored out of the way
• The positive cable for the aux battery has 2 solutions.
  • One is you can attach it to the positive main battery connection (which is kinda a pain, I did this so I know),
  • Or you can use one of the several methods for deleting the factory aux. One method is to make a jumper and then remove I believe it's fuse 42. This will effectively make the start/stop inoperable without having to push the button, removes the ESS functionality and does not give you a CEL light. This is what I plan to do before next summer...
  • Currently, I have chosen option 1 because I don't have the right crimpers to make a jumper cable as needed (can someone please post the link here to that thread that discusses this?)
• Before going over all of your system and things, a couple tasks should be done
  • Disconnect your batteries, all of them, from the truck and system, and check voltage after an hour or two of them sitting. ShadowsPapa has talked about this a lot in many threads. Before making sure your charging system is ok, it's good to verify the batteries themselves are not bad or damaged. I know, because one of mine came damaged and had to get replaced under shipping warranties.
  • Though it sounds dumb, make sure all your connections on the battery are sound, tight, and have good contact
  • Make sure all your fuses are properly seated
  • make sure the main wiring harnesses (at the underside of the distribution box you removed for the genesis system) are seated and not damaged (there is talk about this on other threads, some people do accidentally damage various pins when reseating things if not done correctly

As for overall genesis function. The additional charging harness 'tricks' the vehicle system into thinking the batteries need a higher charge than they do. There is good and bad to this, but short end of the story is if working correctly you should see routinely charging voltages above 12.7. Most the time I am in the 13-14 range, and when cold in winter it is usually pegged at 15v (for me). If your batteries are dying after the truck sits for a night that means you have a drain somewhere. It could be a lot of different things but make sure you dont have something turned on, or a computer system that isn't going to 'sleep' mode, or no accidental shorts to ground. Also, if you bent and pulled hard on your main power or negative cable, give it a quick trace to see fi there is any kink, or something pulled too far, or possibly a internally broken wire, which can happen. With the ignition in 'run' or 'acc' mode with the engine OFF it is fine to see voltages in the 11v range - this is because various computer systems are using electricity without the alternator to provide needed electricity. Now if you see those voltages when the engine is running, thats a different problem.

but I could hear it pop

The "pop is in fact the combiner changing states. It is quite loud and sometimes you can hear it in the cab with the engine running even.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Or you can use one of the several methods for deleting the factory aux. One method is to make a jumper and then remove I believe it's fuse 42. This will effectively make the start/stop inoperable without having to push the button, removes the ESS functionality and does not give you a CEL light. This is what I plan to do before next summer...

But that doesn't kill ESS - ESS still functions, just without the aux battery. And no jumper is needed. An ESS stop will still happen - and all power coming from the crank battery even for N1. (because pulling F42 prevents the PCR from opening)

As seen here, as long as the PCR and related wiring stays in place, the main battery feeds N1
Follow the green brick road.........

A jumper is only required if the PCR and related wiring is removed. Otherwise, the main battery feeds N1 through the PCR.

Removing F42 only prevents the PCR from opening for the initial startup test, and doesn't disable anything ESS related - ESS will still function although some say with limits as to the number of times it works per drive cycle.

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