Geometry Correction Brackets (my experience with the wobbles)

[HighGround]

I want to add my information to the hopper for anybody that’s seeking solutions down the road as it relates to lifts and death wobble.

So many of the death wobble and steering issues are specific to the different parts that each of us are installing, so I share this with that in mind. I appreciate the folks that have taken the time to share their experiences on this forum. I believe it saved me quite a bit of frustration and money to get to where I’m at now

FOR THE RECORD:

My truck is a Sport S with the Max Tow package.

My truck has always had the steel steering box.

I live in Southern California and commute 60 miles per workday on Interstate 405, which sucks as far as the road surface is concerned.


STEP 1:

Day 1 of ownership, I installed a Teraflex 1.5” spacer and swapped the sport wheels/tires for Rubicon take-offs. At this point the steering was stable through the steering wheel, but keeping the truck in its lane would be a bit dicey over 70mph. This didn’t really concern me, as I didn’t get it to race around and it just felt like old solid axle trucks I remember from my youth.

STEP 2:

I installed-

1) Rancho Level It kit (springs, shocks, end links). The kit is a stated 1.5” lift, but a Rancho rep stated it would be closer to 2” with my full width steel bumper (no winch).
2) A Teraflex 0.5” spacer above the Rancho coils.
3) Mopar extended length lower control arms.
4) Readylift adjustable track bar.
5) Rancho RS9000XL series shocks.
6) 3/4” Daystar rear coil spacers.

The combined components resulted in a bit over 2.5” of true lift. The pinion angle was reading 0 degrees on my phone


My first time driving the above combo resulted in a steering feel that was very sensitive to bumps (edge of DW) and a couple occasions of full death wobble at roughly 45mph and 70mph. These were bad enough to require a full stop. I will also say that the ride was rougher than I would have expected, but I chalked it up to the spring and shock swap.

STEP 3:

I adjusted tow, which stopped the true DW incidents, but still had a truck on the very edge of it. I was expecting it to go full DW with every pot hole and expansion joint.

STEP 4:

I checked torque specs on ALL parts of the steering system including the ball joints.

The tie rod wasn’t up to spec at the knuckles but it didn’t have any play in it either.

The above step didn’t have any tangible effects on the steering.

STEP 5:

I installed Rancho geometry correction brackets. I used the top (smallest adjustment) hole. The pinion angle was bouncing between 1-2 degrees on my phone.

This was the game changer!!!!

The ride is now super smooth by comparison. The truck tracks dead straight and there is zero hint of the wobbles no matter what I run over, regardless of my typical driving speeds.

I will say that I can tell caster is high in the steering feel. It’s simply not as light as it was when stock. But, as a comparison, it’s not as heavy as my wife’s Land Rover and it’s way more stable at higher speeds that it was when stock. In fact, I found myself regularly going about 5mph faster than I thought the first time I drove to work.

As I stated at the beginning, this is simply my experience with the specific components I have installed.

That being said, I think the geometry correction brackets are an underrated component. I was worried about them being low, but they aren’t any lower than the rear LCA mounts. For my use (daily driver, fire roads, general trail use) they won’t be a hinderance.

I sincerely hope this helps someone dealing with their own modification issues.

Cheers.

Sponsored

 

[Uparms]

I want to add my information to the hopper for anybody that’s seeking solutions down the road as it relates to lifts and death wobble.

So many of the death wobble and steering issues are specific to the different parts that each of us are installing, so I share this with that in mind. I appreciate the folks that have taken the time to share their experiences on this forum. I believe it saved me quite a bit of frustration and money to get to where I’m at now

FOR THE RECORD:

My truck is a Sport S with the Max Tow package.

My truck has always had the steel steering box.

I live in Southern California and commute 60 miles per workday on Interstate 405, which sucks as far as the road surface is concerned.


STEP 1:

Day 1 of ownership, I installed a Teraflex 1.5” spacer and swapped the sport wheels/tires for Rubicon take-offs. At this point the steering was stable through the steering wheel, but keeping the truck in its lane would be a bit dicey over 70mph. This didn’t really concern me, as I didn’t get it to race around and it just felt like old solid axle trucks I remember from my youth.

STEP 2:

I installed-

1) Rancho Level It kit (springs, shocks, end links). The kit is a stated 1.5” lift, but a Rancho rep stated it would be closer to 2” with my full width steel bumper (no winch).
2) A Teraflex 0.5” spacer above the Rancho coils.
3) Mopar extended length lower control arms.
4) Readylift adjustable track bar.
5) Rancho RS9000XL series shocks.
6) 3/4” Daystar rear coil spacers.

The combined components resulted in a bit over 2.5” of true lift. The pinion angle was reading 0 degrees on my phone


My first time driving the above combo resulted in a steering feel that was very sensitive to bumps (edge of DW) and a couple occasions of full death wobble at roughly 45mph and 70mph. These were bad enough to require a full stop. I will also say that the ride was rougher than I would have expected, but I chalked it up to the spring and shock swap.

STEP 3:

I adjusted tow, which stopped the true DW incidents, but still had a truck on the very edge of it. I was expecting it to go full DW with every pot hole and expansion joint.

STEP 4:

I checked torque specs on ALL parts of the steering system including the ball joints.

The tie rod wasn’t up to spec at the knuckles but it didn’t have any play in it either.

The above step didn’t have any tangible effects on the steering.

STEP 5:

I installed Rancho geometry correction brackets. I used the top (smallest adjustment) hole. The pinion angle was bouncing between 1-2 degrees on my phone.

This was the game changer!!!!

The ride is now super smooth by comparison. The truck tracks dead straight and there is zero hint of the wobbles no matter what I run over, regardless of my typical driving speeds.

I will say that I can tell caster is high in the steering feel. It’s simply not as light as it was when stock. But, as a comparison, it’s not as heavy as my wife’s Land Rover and it’s way more stable at higher speeds that it was when stock. In fact, I found myself regularly going about 5mph faster than I thought the first time I drove to work.

As I stated at the beginning, this is simply my experience with the specific components I have installed.

That being said, I think the geometry correction brackets are an underrated component. I was worried about them being low, but they aren’t any lower than the rear LCA mounts. For my use (daily driver, fire roads, general trail use) they won’t be a hinderance.

I sincerely hope this helps someone dealing with their own modification issues.

Cheers.

JKS Geo Correction brackets made a difference in my 2 inch mopar on 35s, Max Tow Sport. Not monumental but definite improvement in front end impact.

 

[OHJeeper]

Thanks for posting!

Did you measure the caster after the geo brackets, or just the pinion angle? Would love to know the caster numbers if you have them, or can measure them.

 

[HighGround]

Thanks for posting!

Did you measure the caster after the geo brackets, or just the pinion angle? Would love to know the caster numbers if you have them, or can measure them.

I measured it at 6 degrees when I did the initial work.

I did a deep dive after getting the DW and learned that true caster can’t be measured without a caster measurement device, like the kind on Amazon, or an alignment machine.

We can see an angle relative to the pinion, but not true caster because it’s measured on an arc. Therefore, I’ve not measured it again.

Although I assume it would be around 7.5 degrees of relative angle based on my new pinion angle.

 

[OHJeeper]

I measured it at 6 degrees when I did the initial work.

I did a deep dive after getting the DW and learned that true caster can’t be measured without a caster measurement device, like the kind on Amazon, or an alignment machine.

We can see an angle relative to the pinion, but not true caster because it’s measured on an arc. Therefore, I’ve not measured it again.

Although I assume it would be around 7.5 degrees of relative angle based on my new pinion angle.

6 degrees when you were stock and began the work, or after you did the initial stuff in step 1?

Interesting on the caster/arc comment... not sure what measured on an arc means and how that's different than measuring an angle. I failed high school geometry, though Not disputing your claim, I just truly don't understand the difference. I just take my magnetic angle finder and put it on the bottom of the steering knuckle and subtract the reference angle of the floor... I'm hillbilly.

 

[HighGround]

6 degrees when you were stock and began the work, or after you did the initial stuff in step 1?

Interesting on the caster/arc comment... not sure what measured on an arc means and how that's different than measuring an angle. I failed high school geometry, though Not disputing your claim, I just truly don't understand the difference. I just take my magnetic angle finder and put it on the bottom of the steering knuckle and subtract the reference angle of the floor... I'm hillbilly.

6 degrees after step 2. I didn’t bother measuring until I started having issues.

As for measuring, it took me awhile to wrap my head around it. Eventually I’ll get the tool from Amazon so I can get the true measurement. I do my own work anyway, so I don’t mind having it in the tool box.

I’m curious to see how close it is to the angle finder.

 

[OHJeeper]

6 degrees after step 2. I didn’t bother measuring until I started having issues.

As for measuring, it took me awhile to wrap my head around it. Eventually I’ll get the tool from Amazon so I can get the true measurement. I do my own work anyway, so I don’t mind having it in the tool box.

I’m curious to see how close it is to the angle finder.

Which one are you looking at on Amazon? The ones I initially came across look like expensive bubble-level angle finders

I use this (well, an older version from my Dad's old toolbox): https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Level-Tool-700-Magnetic/dp/B00004T807

Would love to hear your results if you end up buying one and comparing to the angle finder.

Again, thanks for posting your experience on here!

 

[Courtsm3]

I had these on my 20’ glady with 2.5” of lift and it was the best mod I ever did (drive wise). I have a 2.5” for my 21’ eco and waiting for the same brackets before I do the whole install. I was impressed with the rancho quality, one piece design and beefy build. Worth the money.

 

[HighGround]

Which one are you looking at on Amazon? The ones I initially came across look like expensive bubble-level angle finders

I use this (well, an older version from my Dad's old toolbox): https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Level-Tool-700-Magnetic/dp/B00004T807

Would love to hear your results if you end up buying one and comparing to the angle finder.

Again, thanks for posting your experience on here!

Tenhulzen Automotive 2-Wheel Alignment Tool - All-in-one (Camber/Caster/Toe Plates) - Made in USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PKI0YSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RXVX1QH3JZ90HT0DGE9Y

They seem simple and I believe that’s the case. It measures when the wheel is turned 20 degrees and then again turned 20 degrees in the opposite direction. At least I think that’s correct. Lord knows I’ve been wrong about things before.

 

[Shopshirt]

So I stood on the shoulders of greatness once again! Thanks to information here.

A little context, Installed the MOPAR lift with the LCA's and Bilstein B8 5100's netted a little over 2.5" of lift in the front. First 3 weeks, noticed a shimmy, did a bolt check and nothing. After the bolt check, when hitting bumps a couple of bumps ended up giving me full wobble where I had to stop. Had my alignment check and total toe was a little over spec at 21 degrees (10 passenger/ 11 Drivers side) Caster with the MOPAR LCAs was 4.9.

Added

• JKS drop brackets,
• Metal Cloak track bar (replaced a RC Track Bar), and
• added a steer smarts sector shaft brace for good measure.

The truck was running really stiff, like a buckboard wagon before and I felt like I was beating it up driving down a paved road.

Caster measures around 6.5 on the first hole with the JKS brackets. It is a night and day difference. My JT did not like 4.9 caster and the change in control arm angle. The truck feels planted with the Bilsteins and I feel like the ride is better than it was when it came from the factory!

Shout out to the guys at Round2 Offroad in Cedar Park TX for entertaining my questions and the install.

 

[mgw750]

Old thread but still intresting (to me anyways). I have close to the same setup the OP has. Rancho level it kit (springs, swaybar links, shocks). to the kit I added the Rancho track bar, Geometry Brackets, Terraflex 1/2 inch spacer (added another 1/2 inch later). 3/4 inch spacer to the rear and replaced the Rancho shocks with Bilstiens 5100 shocks. This thing handles much better then I ever expected and except for the 5000x shocks hasn't given me any troubles in the 25000 miles i have put on it. I just added Ranchos adjustable lower control arms to it(for no other reason than "I just wanted to") Any ways really impressed with all the parts, minus the 5000x shocks.

Sponsored