Gladiator wont start .. new battery no ACC power

[Combolc]

Woke up today and the JT wouldnt start. It has brake lights, interior light and checked the batteries with meter. They are both brand new but checked them anyway and they are showing 12. volts

I press the button and nothing happens. No radio, no ACC, nothing. Remote start same thing. I tried swapping some of the relays to see if I had some issues there but didnt really know which one could be bad.

Any ideas would help. Thanks!

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[PuddleJumper]

check the main fuse array. might be blown.

20-19. Its a fuse block that can blow albeit rarely. you can check it for continuity with a tester. Its the only thing that comes to mind for me when batteries have voltage but nothing else does. Also check grounds?

 

[Combolc]

ok so I pulled N-1 I think it was to disconnect the aux battery, then pulled terminal off the main. Waited 30 minutes went back connected everything and it started right up.. WTF?

Anyone have a clue?

 

[Combolc]

check the main fuse array. might be blown.

20-19. Its a fuse block that can blow albeit rarely. you can check it for continuity with a tester. Its the only thing that comes to mind for me when batteries have voltage but nothing else does. Also check grounds?

Didnt find any issue there. pulled all the power and it worked. wth

 

[PuddleJumper]

Didnt find any issue there. pulled all the power and it worked. wth

hey man its the tried and true method of all technicians. un plug and plug it back in.

 

[Hootbro]

FOB battery?

 

[Combolc]

FOB battery?

Tried both my fobs and the push the fob on the button trick still no luck and they both work now after the "reset"

 

[Hootbro]

Tried both my fobs and the push the fob on the button trick still no luck and they both work now after the "reset"

When you did the FOB to the push button, did the "RUN" light come on and/or the "OFF" light stayed off?

Sounds like the Radio Frequency Hub rebooted with your wire removal and install.

 

[Combolc]

When you did the FOB to the push button, did the "RUN" light come on and/or the "OFF" light stayed off?

Sounds like the Radio Frequency Hub rebooted with your wire removal and install.

Nothing happened , only "push brake to start" message on dash. I didnt get any feedback from anything. At one point I was thinking that the push button was just dead. The batteries are new so I didnt think it was that. I thought maybe a relay but when i didnt get any ACC either which really confused me.

I am hoping to figure out the cause so it doesn't happen again.

 

[Hootbro]

Nothing happened , only "push brake to start" message on dash. I didnt get any feedback from anything. At one point I was thinking that the push button was just dead. The batteries are new so I didnt think it was that. I thought maybe a relay but when i didnt get any ACC either which really confused me.

I am hoping to figure out the cause so it doesn't happen again.

The technical term for the push button start is "Keyless Ignition Node Module". It has a fused power (F10) that powers both it and Radio Frequency Hub.

The light on the Keyless Ignition Node Module if power is present, is controlled through the Radio Frequency Hub and recognizes your chipped key through a RFI ring that sends a signal the Radio Frequency hub on Security K Line Comm path between the two.

Absent any wiring disturbance, it really only leaves the Radio Frequency Hub or possibly a intermittent Keyless Ignition Node Module but I think the former Radio Frequency Hub is more suspect since you stated both FOB's did not work even with remote start.

If you have a scan tool like JScan and not a generic OBDII reader, it would be worth while to see if any module codes are stored. Like a loss COMM or Power high/shorted code for either the Keyless Ignition Node Module or the Radio Frequency Hub Module

 

[Combolc]

The technical term for the push button start is "Keyless Ignition Node Module". It has a fused power (F10) that powers both it and Radio Frequency Hub.

The light on the Keyless Ignition Node Module if power is present, is controlled through the Radio Frequency Hub and recognizes your chipped key through a RFI ring that sends a signal the Radio Frequency hub on Security K Line Comm path between the two.

Absent any wiring disturbance, it really only leaves the Radio Frequency Hub or possibly a intermittent Keyless Ignition Node Module but I think the former Radio Frequency Hub is more suspect since you stated both FOB's did not work even with remote start.

If you have a scan tool like JScan and not a generic OBDII reader, it would be worth while to see if any module codes are stored. Like a loss COMM or Power high/shorted code for either the Keyless Ignition Node Module or the Radio Frequency Hub Module

Thank you - Yeah no wiring changes and I did get power to the Keyless Ignition Node Module lights were on and OFF button illuminated.

I will try to plug my tester and and see if I can pull any codes.

bad part is, I just got the JT back after 5 months getting the entire rear diff rebuild that Jeep could not explain why happened. Now more issues.

 

[Hootbro]

Kind of spitballing here but you have any rear window leak issues? That Radio Frequency Hub Module is on the back inside cab wall under the panel plastic. Bit of a pisser to get to but if any water is leaking, may be getting down and corroding something there.

Something to keep in mind.

 

[Lost1wing]

Could have been cold temperatures. Don't know much about where you were. Also don't know your reference of New. New as in you just put new batteries in? Was it a week ago?

12v is not good, but I get your reference of 12v meaning not a flat battery. 12.0 to 12.2 is not what your JT is looking for, 12.6 to 13.0 is.

You could have reset the IBS if you left N1 and the main battery terminal off long enough. Normally you would separate the grounds from the top plate at the main negative and pull the connector off of the IBS to do this. Hopefully you won't see any more issues. Disconnecting the battery may have made the codes go away. Unfortunately reconnecting the batteries the way you disconnected them could set different codes unrelated to your situation.

 

[Combolc]

Could have been cold temperatures. Don't know much about where you were. Also don't know your reference of New. New as in you just put new batteries in? Was it a week ago?

12v is not good, but I get your reference of 12v meaning not a flat battery. 12.0 to 12.2 is not what your JT is looking for, 12.6 to 13.0 is.

You could have reset the IBS if you left N1 and the main battery terminal off long enough. Normally you would separate the grounds from the top plate at the main negative and pull the connector off of the IBS to do this. Hopefully you won't see any more issues. Disconnecting the battery may have made the codes go away. Unfortunately reconnecting the batteries the way you disconnected them could set different codes unrelated to your situation.

hhm maybe the weather I didnt drive it for 1 day, the battery are new as in like 3 weeks old. I live in VT, outside temps in singles but inside garage is around 40-45. yeah like you said I just knew it wasnt dead I think it was 12.6 to be precise. The dash say 14.4 now.

But now that you are saying this about the intelligent sensor maybe worth troublshooting the aux battery more.

How do you think it would generate additional codes? I screwed N1 back then connected the main.

 

[Lost1wing]

hhm maybe the weather I didnt drive it for 1 day, the battery are new as in like 3 weeks old. I live in VT, outside temps in singles but inside garage is around 40-45. yeah like you said I just knew it wasnt dead I think it was 12.6 to be precise. The dash say 14.4 now.

But now that you are saying this about the intelligent sensor maybe worth troublshooting the aux battery more.

How do you think it would generate additional codes? I screwed N1 back then connected the main.

Removing N1 did nothing for you. N1 goes to your Aux plus. Your aux and main were still connected together. You did remove power to the radio frequency hub. If the radio frequency hub was the issue you possibly could have started the Jeep with the fob end pushing on the start switch button. See owners manual on dead fob battery. The ground cables are the way to disconnect and reconnect the batteries.

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