GOING TO 37S WHAT SHOULD I BEEF UP

[Wolf Island Diver]

I sort of agree that you don’t need to beef up anything. I upgraded the steering stabilizer and noticed exactly zero change. I replaced the front track bar because the stock one was too short. The Synergy bar is stout but so was the stock bar. The steering components are pretty stout from the factory.

I installed a Helwig rear swaybar not because it’s more stout, although it is. I installed that because it counters sway on a loaded truck better. It’s not a requirement.

The thing you do need to beef up is your maintenance schedule. Particularly checking the tightness and checking for wear on everything especially after going off road. Ball joints, LCA bolts, etc. installing bigger tires means reducing by some factor the margins on all those suspension and axle components. The wear increases and the potential for breaking things increases.

Also, paradoxically, you need to drive with more finesse, not less. You’re putting more stress on weak points like the FAD. More stress on spring perches, control arm mounts, knuckles, ball joints, the tie rod, etc.

A lot of people lift a truck and then drive like it’s tougher when in fact it’s now more prone to breaking because of the additional weight and leverage of large tires, and greater angles on components.

I agree with @HooliganActual. Put together an upgrade fund or at least a plan for upgrading components as they wear out more quickly. I’m about to do ball joints at 36K miles.

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[spiveyracing]

I didn't re-gear my rubicon for 37s it pulls them just fine but mine is a diesel. I did install the Metalcloak Gamechanger and it was the best decision I made, it actually drives better. I don't pull a trailer much if I did I would re-gear.

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

I didn't re-gear my rubicon for 37s it pulls them just fine but mine is a diesel. I did install the Metalcloak Gamechanger and it was the best decision I made, it actually drives better. I don't pull a trailer much if I did I would re-gear.

Yeah the diesel doesn’t need a regear. I don’t have any issue getting into 8th consistently and I can chirp tires. That being said, those that did it said it was a good move. I’d consider it when and if I swap axles.

 

[spiveyracing]

Yeah the diesel doesn’t need a regear. I don’t have any issue getting into 8th consistently and I can chirp tires. That being said, those that did it said it was a good move. I’d consider it when and if I swap axles.

maybe one day but Im getting 23.5 MPG and its my daily so I would hate to hurt that. its been bullet proof for 80K miles with the exception of a self induced ground issue.

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

maybe one day but Im getting 23.5 MPG and its my daily so I would hate to hurt that. its been bullet proof for 80K miles with the exception of a self induced ground issue.

Avoiding a regear is one of the reasons I bought the diesel. It’s really a roll of the dice that whoever does the regear does it right. It’s pretty common for people to have issues after a regear that don’t necessarily manifest immediately and some axles are worse than others for this. I’ve been told not to regear a D44 by a few different people, Dave Harriton of AEV being one. Of course different generations of D44s aren’t the same, nor are D60s. But, I’d much rather just order new axles geared from the Dana/Spicer or Dynatrac factory than to have the local grimy handshake do it in between texting his girlfriend and scrolling TikTok.

 

[Mbryson]

I believe strongly in regearing back to stock final drive ratio + 5%ish over. I have not regeared my diesel on 37" tires but will be doing so soon. I've driven it a year and 20k miles without the regear. I'm in 8th gear a lot. At times I talk myself out of the regear. Other times it's like the next thing I'm going to do. I do think it will do things "better" (I live in Utah at 4300') with a return nearer the final drive ratio the factory spec'd it with. I've decided it's worth doing and will be doing so in the near future. If I stick with 37" tires, I'd like a 4.30 ratio. From what I've seen, those are not available for the JT axles? I don't think 4.10 is enough of a change to make it worth the $.

I've "overgeared" two vehicles before and haven't cared for that. I don't think being 4.56 with 37" tires would be bad but I'd be inclined to move up to 38" tires if the 4.56 is the only commonly available ratio for the JT axles. The "overgeared" were AWESOME off road and for towing but really sucked at Utah freeway speeds. I do know I'm splitting hairs a little with the gear ratio but it's a thing. The nature of regearing or setting up a vehicle to fit your purposes.

As @Wolf Island Diver alludes to, you definitely need to get a quality shop to do the gear work.

 

[BUZZHEAD]

I sort of agree that you don’t need to beef up anything. I upgraded the steering stabilizer and noticed exactly zero change. I replaced the front track bar because the stock one was too short. The Synergy bar is stout but so was the stock bar. The steering components are pretty stout from the factory.

I installed a Helwig rear swaybar not because it’s more stout, although it is. I installed that because it counters sway on a loaded truck better. It’s not a requirement.

The thing you do need to beef up is your maintenance schedule. Particularly checking the tightness and checking for wear on everything especially after going off road. Ball joints, LCA bolts, etc. installing bigger tires means reducing by some factor the margins on all those suspension and axle components. The wear increases and the potential for breaking things increases.

Also, paradoxically, you need to drive with more finesse, not less. You’re putting more stress on weak points like the FAD. More stress on spring perches, control arm mounts, knuckles, ball joints, the tie rod, etc.

A lot of people lift a truck and then drive like it’s tougher when in fact it’s now more prone to breaking because of the additional weight and leverage of large tires, and greater angles on components.

I agree with @HooliganActual. Put together an upgrade fund or at least a plan for upgrading components as they wear out more quickly. I’m about to do ball joints at 36K miles.

Thank you - did ball joints at 52 k was on 35s at the time -warranty .Well the harley fund turns into the jeep fund- sold the harley

 

[churro1513]

I wheeled mine hard on 37s and 4.10 gears for 3 years without upgrading a single steering component. The JT/JL tie rod and drag link are quite a bit stronger than prior generations. The only things I broke in the front repeatedly were axle u-joints. Those led to broken or bent axle shafts, and one experience of ball joints popping out of the knuckle. So, if it was me, I would upgrade the front axle shafts before doing any of that other stuff. When you lose a shaft in the front axle, the Jeep senses speed variances it doesn’t compute, and shuts off the 4WD module. This leaves you in 2WD. RCVs or alternative chromoly shafts with larger joints would be my recommendation. That said, ball joints with circle clips that hold them in would also be a solid investment if you’re doing hard core stuff. Otherwise, just enjoy your Jeep.

I'm curious, what were you doing to break the axle u-joints?

 

[Tstrausburg]

Looking at STEER SMARTS - front and rear track bar
yeti xd tie rod assembly
yeti xd drag link with xd atcuater
REGEAR -down the road

I have 37's on my Rubicon and the best thing I have done so far was to upgrade my steering. I went with Synergy draglink and tie rod. I already had a Yeti Track Bar but I may take it off and swap that to Synergy as well. I know this will bring some strong opinions on here....but I am not crazy about the yeti...has non rotating OEM bushings on the ends and way too thick for no real reason. The Yeti barely clears my diff cover at full flex. That and the damn cuff has to be positioned perfectly to not contact a flipped stabilizer. You can kind of see that in my picture. The bottom bolt came in contact a few times when I was wheeling. Yeti does "look cool" though.

Also snagged a free falcon top rod mounted adjustable stabilizer for a JK for free. They fit on the JTs and JLs if you get the right cuff size for the tie rod. Still need to re-gear though, then its on to a front drive shaft.

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