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HELP! Do you need to take intake plenum off to swap coil packs?

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steffen707

steffen707

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Swap fuel injector?

I chased a very intermittent misfire on my 2020 JT and swapped coils, plugs and fuel injector position to no avail. Never went any farther and traded it.
I'll leave the injector swapping to the dealer. If it's an injector or valvetrain issue I believe it's all covered under the powertrain warranty.

I'm not in a great place financially to trade it in. So I might go the opposite way and get an extended warranty so whatever goes wrong in 4.5 years will be covered.
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'm not in a great place financially to trade it in. So I might go the opposite way and get an extended warranty so whatever goes wrong in 4.5 years will be covered.
I could have worded my last reply better. Not suggesting you trade it. I did not trade because of the misfire I had as it was very intermittent like once in a blue moon and never set a permanent code, just pending that would clear next ignition cycle.
 
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I could have worded my last reply better. Not suggesting you trade it. I did not trade because of the misfire I had as it was very intermittent like once in a blue moon and never set a permanent code and just pending that would clear next ignition cycle.
Mine only happens if I Rev to 5000rpm,so I could just not Rev that high, but I'm sure it'll get worse, more worn or whatever.

These random misfires seem to happen often, I'm finding out.
 

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Mine only happens if I Rev to 5000rpm,so I could just not Rev that high, but I'm sure it'll get worse, more worn or whatever.

These random misfires seem to happen often, I'm finding out.
I would suggest an oil analysis. If you have internal cam and lifter wear, you will have iron wear numbers through the roof. An oil analysis report is not necessarily an item the dealership will take action on if you show them as they have their own process to follow, but it will give you more knowledge of what is going on internally.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/products/free-test-kits/
 
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can somebody tell me the proper way to disconnect the electrical connector on the coil pack?

I pushed that white tab thing away from the coil pack, but could not get the plug to come off, i tried pushing down on the white thing, the black thing in front of it, nothing.

So I used a flat screwdriver between the coil pack and the lower part of the connector and popped it loose (or so I thought. I think what actually happened was the little bump/nub on the coil pack snapped off, so now the connector won't "click" back onto the coil pack.

So now I have 2 coilpacks that need zipties to hold the electrical plug on tightly.........FML :swear:

I shouldn't wrench on my truck anymore, but funds have been tight so I didn't wanna pay $500 for them to swap a coil pack. Maybe next time i should just pay it, lol.




Jeep Gladiator HELP!  Do you need to take intake plenum off to swap coil packs? 1682699076067
 

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can somebody tell me the proper way to disconnect the electrical connector on the coil pack?

I pushed that white tab thing away from the coil pack, but could not get the plug to come off, i tried pushing down on the white thing, the black thing in front of it, nothing.

So I used a flat screwdriver between the coil pack and the lower part of the connector and popped it loose (or so I thought. I think what actually happened was the little bump/nub on the coil pack snapped off, so now the connector won't "click" back onto the coil pack.

So now I have 2 coilpacks that need zipties to hold the electrical plug on tightly.........FML :swear:

I shouldn't wrench on my truck anymore, but funds have been tight so I didn't wanna pay $500 for them to swap a coil pack. Maybe next time i should just pay it, lol.




Jeep Gladiator HELP!  Do you need to take intake plenum off to swap coil packs? 1682699076067
After pulling the white safety tab back, pushing on the exposed black square tab should have released it. The problem is the connector was probably heat cycled stuck. I have done the same thing on some Ford fuel injector connectors before being ham fisted. Once you get the feel of one breaking loose, you get the others relatively easy.
 
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Premature camshaft wear on the right side. They think it was a bad lifter, but I thought people were having variable valvetrain issues causing the wear, not from a lifter.

Either way they're ordering parts and will reschedule next week sometime.
 

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Premature camshaft wear on the right side. They think it was a bad lifter, but I thought people were having variable valvetrain issues causing the wear, not from a lifter.

Either way they're ordering parts and will reschedule next week sometime.
Issue fixed? I too have a misfire in cylinder 5 when accelerating above 5,000 RPM in fourth gear.
 

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Issue fixed? I too have a misfire in cylinder 5 when accelerating above 5,000 RPM in fourth gear.
Have you done a freeze frame capture to see if it's ignition?
Has anyone scoped anything?

High speed, high load/high pressure often leans toward ignition.
 

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Which means?
It takes more to fire a plug under high chamber pressures. A weak coil or a bad spark plug is more likely to fail under hard/heavy acceleration or under heavy engine load.
If it's a single cylinder misfire and it's happening under a heavy load, it's more likely ignition than other causes. If you can run at high RPM without a load or not under acceleration and it's not misfiring, then it's pointing more toward ignition causes - spark plug or coil.
A coil can fire fine under normal conditions but not under high chamber pressures.
We used to demonstrate that with a scope and a dyno for educational purposes.
Doesn't mean it's not something else - but that rises toward the top.
The reverse is true as well - on an older vehicle where you can easily scope all cylinders at one time and overlay the patterns - if you see one with a longer and/or lower spark line compared to the rest, check the compression of that cylinder. It's firing too easy.

But if there's a misfire, and you have something that can capture a freeze frame like AlfaOBD, it may tell if the misfire is ignition related.
 

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It takes more to fire a plug under high chamber pressures. A weak coil or a bad spark plug is more likely to fail under hard/heavy acceleration or under heavy engine load.
If it's a single cylinder misfire and it's happening under a heavy load, it's more likely ignition than other causes. If you can run at high RPM without a load or not under acceleration and it's not misfiring, then it's pointing more toward ignition causes - spark plug or coil.
A coil can fire fine under normal conditions but not under high chamber pressures.
We used to demonstrate that with a scope and a dyno for educational purposes.
Doesn't mean it's not something else - but that rises toward the top.
The reverse is true as well - on an older vehicle where you can easily scope all cylinders at one time and overlay the patterns - if you see one with a longer and/or lower spark line compared to the rest, check the compression of that cylinder. It's firing too easy.

But if there's a misfire, and you have something that can capture a freeze frame like AlfaOBD, it may tell if the misfire is ignition related.
It only happens in fourth gear near the rev limiter.
I don't have an AlfaOBD.
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