Do we need to occasionally run the Pentastar at wide open throttle for lubrication purposes?

[PuddleJumper]

You have to wring the shit out of a 3.6L for it to make anything resembling power anyway…

very true

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[TheOpa]

All you really have to do is flip it over and let the oil fill the valve covers every 5000 miles.
I wouldn't recommend frequent high rpm revs. These things are made by people who have a reputation for not tightening bolts.

Just to be crystal clear on this advice, you are recommending regular high speed flip overs, right? Will regearing be needed?

 

[firemedic2714]

I've subscribed to the saying, "a red line a day keeps carbon buildup away". I've been driving for almost 35 years. That along with buying fuel from only the big refiners (Phillips, BP, etc.), and 5k-7k oil changes with name-brand synthetic oil. So far, so good. ?

 

[Puch]

I t

This is from my Promaster chat group

”(This engine) has a 2-spd oil pump. Its 2nd gear kicks in around 3500 RPM. That isn't WOT, but 2X PSI still has to help with lubricati…”

and

”This engine needs occasional WOT runs if you want it to last. Granny cycling is bad for it. So bad for it we actually created a new granny cycle test during the cylinder #3 misfire issue. The highest wear is in the valve guides, because of tight valve stem seals (for emissions, reduce oil burn). They basically dry out. When you go WOT/high rpm/load you get some fresh oil in there and this keeps the wear down."

I generally push the engine any more than needed.

thoughts or guidance?

I think if you put it on 4lo and 1st gear, hold it to the floor for ten minutes on the highway, you should be good ?
?

 

[pbrevo64]

I agree. Though I do wonder one thing, maybe you or someone knows. My KL tended to exhaust water. Not a lot, just a bit. Likely just a way the ac or something engine related pushed out water. Would the occasional wot help kick out the water trapped in low points of the exhaust and help prevent rust?

Water vapor is a natural byproduct of combustion, and as the exhaust gas travels the length of the exhaust, it condenses and therefore causes the water you are seeing. High RPMs result in a greater volume of exhaust gas exiting, therefore helping to push that out, but in all reality, getting your vehicle up to operating temperature burns most of it off, and the low points have weep holes to prevent build ups of condensation. This is why you see a small puddle under the front of the bed after idling for a long period of time (not to be confused with the AC condensate dripping below the transmission).

As far as OP's post, my practice is to just drive it normally - merging onto the highway and passing covers me for high RPM driving, and I would imagine most others fall into this category as well.

 

[ChrisNLA]

Completely anecdotal note with no scientific basis to back it up, but -

I have never had any issue with an engine that I flog a little and keep up with regular scheduled oil changes that lean on shorter intervals rather than longer. Besides, the truck has no problem revving plenty when trying to move its own weight around at any speed let alone with urgency.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The highest wear is in the valve guides, because of tight valve stem seals (for emissions, reduce oil burn). They basically dry out.

Oil is drawn down past the valve stems by engine vacuum for the intake, and during the exhaust exit past the valves during exhaust stroke.
You have the up and down transfer of oil through the movement of the stems, but also have oil being drawn down by the normal running of the engine.

As far as OP's post, my practice is to just drive it normally - merging onto the highway and passing covers me for high RPM driving, and I would imagine most others fall into this category as well.

Exactly - no need to purposely "flog it" - that's post is mostly old-school shade-tree stuff with no basis in fact - and it comes from non-experienced mechanics. They are guessing because of some things they've seen. When I see things like that, I laugh and think to myself - the biggest problem is all of those who don't know better who will buy into that just plain crap.

What @ShadowsPapa said is correct. These engines are not prone to failure from driving any certain way, like any engine that is mass produced there is occasionally one that has mechanical issues. I have worked on hundreds, if not thousands, of Pentastar engines since they came out, and the early valve guide issues were solved almost ten years ago. Camshaft wear issues are also rare, although the Internet makes it seem like every Pentastar engine is on borrowed time. My recommendation: drive your Pentastar powered vehicle without worrying about things that MIGHT go wrong. If it does have a problem, then fix it.

Like you know - the PUG has a different head design and shorter valves. They run coolant past the exhaust guides and have taken measures to minimize wear.
There's just no problem that way with these.

And those talking about carbon are again thinking shade-tree old time stuff - these, if you keep using good quality oil, change it, and don't do short drives, won't have carbon issues. It's not a matter of "flogging" it - it's a matter of heating the engine up (and then we get into that crap about "cooler is better, 200 is too hot!")
Short runs kill engines. Doesn't matter if you flog it in a short drive - won't help, because now you are running high RPM in a cold engine - which won't burn the moisture and byproducts of combustion off.

People will believe what they want, even if MOPAR techs say otherwise, or people who actually build engines (and have had hundreds open over the decades).

For me, the whole first post is just plain bull crap, and the tells are the bits about how valve stems are lubricated and they say the oil pump is a two speed......
That should tell folks all the rest is made up - they don't even know how these work so how can they claim to say how to take care of them?

 

[AmishMike]

I t

I think if you put it on 4lo and 1st gear, hold it to the floor for ten minutes on the highway, you should be good ?
?

You have to lock the diffs too, unless you have an angry grille- then the above position of the blue truck is the preferred method.

 

[Puch]

You have to lock the diffs too, unless you have an angry grille- then the above position of the blue truck is the preferred method.

Good catch! Can’t believe I left that important step out?

 

[starrskream]

Water vapor is a natural byproduct of combustion, and as the exhaust gas travels the length of the exhaust, it condenses and therefore causes the water you are seeing. High RPMs result in a greater volume of exhaust gas exiting, therefore helping to push that out, but in all reality, getting your vehicle up to operating temperature burns most of it off, and the low points have weep holes to prevent build ups of condensation. This is why you see a small puddle under the front of the bed after idling for a long period of time (not to be confused with the AC condensate dripping below the transmission).

As far as OP's post, my practice is to just drive it normally - merging onto the highway and passing covers me for high RPM driving, and I would imagine most others fall into this category as well.

I kind of figured that was where the water came from. I more meant pound the gas now and then to help push what may get collected in the muffler or tight spots to help prevent it rotting out in those spots.

as for me, I haven’t hit 300 miles yet, so I’m just driving it normally. Oil changes at 500,1000,3000 then going with the about 5000 every time after.

 

[JTGuy]

Just start it with it WOT so the oil gets there fast,,,LOL.
I don't do WOT. More like 4K max. Mine has learned to make max torque at lower RPMs,,,LOL.

 

[starrskream]

Just start it with it WOT so the oil gets there fast,,,LOL.
I don't do WOT. More like 4K max. Mine has learned to make max torque at lower RPMs,,,LOL.

I keep a brick on my pedal so I can remote start at WOT, sadly it’s capped at 3k. Can’t wait to install the borla atak twin side outs for the neighbors enjoyment! ????

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I keep a brick on my pedal so I can remote start at WOT, sadly it’s capped at 3k. Can’t wait to install the borla atak twin side outs for the neighbors enjoyment! ????

Before some changes, my 73 would set off car alarms in the parking lot at work when I started it.
It was funny for a while, then I realized - maybe it's not so funny....... and started parking with my car facing a different direction.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Would the occasional wot help kick out the water trapped in low points of the exhaust and help prevent rust?

Running the engine long enough under enough load to heat up the exhaust is the trick - WOT won't necessarily heat it.

Interesting note that at times the 4xe will insist on running the ICE even when you have plenty of battery for electric power. I looked into it and a tech said it's to get the exhaust up to temperature, heat the cats and burn out moisture. It started the ICE and if I recall, loaded it with the generator to heat up the exhaust.
If you don't run things long enough or hot enough, it will force it on you for the good of the engine and exhaust/cats.

 

[Charles 236]

Running the engine long enough under enough load to heat up the exhaust is the trick - WOT won't necessarily heat it.

Interesting note that at times the 4xe will insist on running the ICE even when you have plenty of battery for electric power. I looked into it and a tech said it's to get the exhaust up to temperature, heat the cats and burn out moisture. It started the ICE and if I recall, loaded it with the generator to heat up the exhaust.
If you don't run things long enough or hot enough, it will force it on you for the good of the engine and exhaust/cats.

The 4xe uses this to burn off stale fuel and cut down on condensation in the oil. It is called FORM, I can't remember what the acronym actually stands for, but it is necessary for the ICEs fuel and oil systems continued proper functioning. Getting the exhaust up to temperature is a side benefit. You might be surprised by how often people think that their is s problem with their 4xe when it goes into FORM mode.

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