Help! How do I wire 6" bumper lights to high beam AND separate switch?

[19Delta]

Posting here to get the help of folks much smarter than me! (searched for a while, but couldn't find my answer)

I have the factory LED light package and the factory Aux switches.

I bought 2 - 6" KC halogen 100W apollo lights (8.3 amp each). I was planning using the wiring harness that came with them and using my aux switch 1 to be the "power" to the relay, and then tapping into the factory high beam wire as my switch. The result being high beams operate normally. Click aux 1 and KC's come on with high beam, then if a car pops over a hill, I just kill highbeams and the KC's go off as well. Does anyone see a problem with this? Does anyone know which wire is the highbeam and the best place to tap into it?

But before I wire this up, I started thinking maybe I would want the KC lights on without the high beams if it is snowing? I choose the "spread" pattern. Can anyone confirm if they prefer these on in the snow.

Could I wire the above, and add Aux 2 switch directly to the power wire to the lights as well? Then I could run them on lowbeam in snow. But I am not sure what would happen if someone turned both Aux 1 & 2 on?

Thanks a ton for any and all help!

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[ShadowsPapa]

But before I wire this up, I started thinking maybe I would want the KC lights on without the high beams if it is snowing? I choose the "spread" pattern. Can anyone confirm if they prefer these on in the snow.

Last thing you want is more bright lights shining into falling snow. If high beams are bad in snow, why would the KC lights be good or even better?
Best bet for snow is selective yellow fog lights mounted down low in the bumper.

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

I'd defer to anyone that is more knowledgeable or knows of a better option, but one way that comes to mind is by basically using two relays. Your description of using both the high beam (switched power) and the aux switch (again, switched power) is not unlike how a typical air compressor (or at least ARBs) work: you typically use a switch to send power to the pressure switch on the compressor, which in turn is wired to a relay to send switched power to the compressor itself - because once the compressor reaches its max holding pressure, the pressure switch till toggle off and the relay will open back up (hence compressor will turn off).

Anyways, for your use case, basically what you're attempting to do is power the lights by a relay that gets closed in one of two scenarios:
Aux 1 + High Beam (where both have to be on)
Aux 2 alone

With that in mind, you ultimately need a relay that gets fused power (30) independently of these conditions: in other words, directly from the battery or fuse panel. The output (87) would go directly to the lights, and the switch (86) would get its power from the above two scenarios. This way you're not getting "power" from both, but rather you're closing the relay in either of the scenarios or both (which doesn't matter since it's already closed). So for Aux 2 usage, you simply wire it directly to 86 on this relay. FWIW, this will ultimately override the Aux 1 + High Beam as it will close the relay regardless of Aux 1 + High Beam situation.

Now, for the Aux 1 + High Beam, you would need another relay. This time the fused power (30) comes from the Aux 1 (in theory, you could get power from the aux switch or high beams, but if you draw from the high beam you could blow that fuse and be out of highs). The output (87) on this would go to the 86 on the first relay (spliced in with Aux 2 wire). And the switch (86) would be from the high beams. Essentially, you're getting power from the Aux 1, so it will only work if Aux 1 is on, and it's switched by the high beams, so it will only work if those are on as well. If Aux 1 is not on, the relay has no power, and if high beams are off, the relay is open so it won't matter if Aux 1 is on or off. By wiring the output to the switch (86) on the first relay, you're controlling the lights by satisfying both conditions.

Admittedly it does seem a bit complicated, and hopefully someone can double check (or maybe I'm missing a stupidly simpler design), but it seems possible. Also, this assumes proper grounding/fusing/wiring ga of everything

 

[19Delta]

I'd defer to anyone that is more knowledgeable or knows of a better option, but one way that comes to mind is by basically using two relays. Your description of using both the high beam (switched power) and the aux switch (again, switched power) is not unlike how a typical air compressor (or at least ARBs) work: you typically use a switch to send power to the pressure switch on the compressor, which in turn is wired to a relay to send switched power to the compressor itself - because once the compressor reaches its max holding pressure, the pressure switch till toggle off and the relay will open back up (hence compressor will turn off).

Anyways, for your use case, basically what you're attempting to do is power the lights by a relay that gets closed in one of two scenarios:
Aux 1 + High Beam (where both have to be on)
Aux 2 alone

With that in mind, you ultimately need a relay that gets fused power (30) independently of these conditions: in other words, directly from the battery or fuse panel. The output (87) would go directly to the lights, and the switch (86) would get its power from the above two scenarios. This way you're not getting "power" from both, but rather you're closing the relay in either of the scenarios or both (which doesn't matter since it's already closed). So for Aux 2 usage, you simply wire it directly to 86 on this relay. FWIW, this will ultimately override the Aux 1 + High Beam as it will close the relay regardless of Aux 1 + High Beam situation.

Now, for the Aux 1 + High Beam, you would need another relay. This time the fused power (30) comes from the Aux 1 (in theory, you could get power from the aux switch or high beams, but if you draw from the high beam you could blow that fuse and be out of highs). The output (87) on this would go to the 86 on the first relay (spliced in with Aux 2 wire). And the switch (86) would be from the high beams. Essentially, you're getting power from the Aux 1, so it will only work if Aux 1 is on, and it's switched by the high beams, so it will only work if those are on as well. If Aux 1 is not on, the relay has no power, and if high beams are off, the relay is open so it won't matter if Aux 1 is on or off. By wiring the output to the switch (86) on the first relay, you're controlling the lights by satisfying both conditions.

Admittedly it does seem a bit complicated, and hopefully someone can double check (or maybe I'm missing a stupidly simpler design), but it seems possible. Also, this assumes proper grounding/fusing/wiring ga of everything

WOW! I am impressed! Thank you for taking the time to think thru this, type it out and explain it. I consider myself decent at wiring "regular" lights, stereo's, etc. After reading this twice, I understand it, but I may be in over my head. As usual, I think I have done too much thinking. Maybe I need to heed @ShadowsPapa wisdom.

Can anyone think of a good reason to have the KC's on without the high beams? I live in snowy northern Indiana, but have not had the snow build up on my LED headlights yet. However, I got my jeep just after Christmas, and only have 3,000 miles on her so far.

 

[dcmdon]

This is interesting. I need to let this marinate. I also want to do something like this. I was thinking I'd need some kind of diode to keep from back feeding the high beams if I turn on the lights with a separate switch. But that other relay seems to solve it.

 

[DougM55]

You need an On-Off-On switch. I think it’s a single pole double throw SPDT switch. One wire come from headlights to the first On pole of the switch. Then a hit wire straight from the battery or hot only with ignition on goes to the second On pole of the switch.

Then the output wire of the switch goes to the trigger input of a 12v relay (86?). Wire the aux light to the relay and battery.

This will allow you to have the aux light come on with the high beam when the switch is flipped to On #1. Or come on whenever you want when set to On #2. Or Off completely.

 

[DougM55]

I should mention OTRTTW is a great source for Contura rocker switches and custom rockers.

 

[Kevin_D]

You need an On-Off-On switch. I think it’s a single pole double throw SPDT switch. One wire come from headlights to the first On pole of the switch. Then a hit wire straight from the battery or hot only with ignition on goes to the second On pole of the switch.

Then the output wire of the switch goes to the trigger input of a 12v relay (86?). Wire the aux light to the relay and battery.

This will allow you to have the aux light come on with the high beam when the switch is flipped to On #1. Or come on whenever you want when set to On #2. Or Off completely.

He wants to use his Aux. switches.

Since I think better in schematics:

This is how I'd do it, since my aftermarket aux. switches are just contact closures.
I'm not sure if the OEM switches work like this, but I think they provide switched +12V. If so, then you'd need a second relay in place of the, "Aux Sw. #1," with that relay being controlled by, "Aux Sw. #1."
The diode is to prevent, "Aux Sw. #2," from powering the Hi beam headlights if you forget to turn off, "Aux Sw. #1."

This is essentially what ryanlsmith is proposing.

So now are you totally confused?

Kevin

 

[cmb396]

I am finishing my BD LP6 today. I wanted to do the same as you, sorda, with the amber backlight on the LP6, and tie them into my headlights so they are powered anytime it's dark. I am running my low/high to Aux 1 and 2.
I was advised NOT to tie anything into the factory lighting due to "possible" amp pull which could potentially shut the entire system down, ie, you lose your headlights all together by the ecm.
I am very circuit challenged when it comes to this, so I am basically wasting aux 3 for the amber backlight.

 

[Edub]

Maybe this will help. I just did something similar with some rock lights on a aux switch that I also wanted powered by the courtesy light. It let's you use two separate power sources without back feed.

Amazon.com: Roadmaster 790 Heavy Duty Hy-Power Diode - Single Pack : Automotive

 

[Alans17]

I was planning using the wiring harness that came with them and using my aux switch 1 to be the "power" to the relay, and then tapping into the factory high beam wire as my switch. The result being high beams operate normally. Click aux 1 and KC's come on with high beam, then if a car pops over a hill, I just kill highbeams and the KC's go off as well.

This is exactly the scenario I'm considering for myself and this approach is basically how I also figured I'd do it.

 

[19Delta]

This is exactly the scenario I'm considering for myself and this approach is basically how I also figured I'd do it.

I really like it!

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