Help!

[USMC-SSGT]

We’ve spitballed some ideas, but it’s time to put credit card to the phone and make the next step.

It’s an overland with the 2” AEV spacer kit WITH the Mopar longer LCAs. I wanted a spacer kit to maintain the stock suspension setup and because I wanted wheel clearance as I didn’t need suspension lift due to the fact I don’t wheel this jeep at all. I’m happy with the rear and would plan to leave it. These options below would end up being essentially a 2” lift in the rear and a 4” lift in the front. While that sounds odd, I believe that’s what most true “lifts” accomplish anyway

It did a great job lifting it, but it’s a solid 2+ inches low in the front. Trying to avoid doing something like a 3.5” lift because:
1: it comes with more things which need to be changed
2: more issues with steering/camber correction
3: a lot more money as I’d avoid the $499 kits with shocks etc

OPTIONS:
A: front rubi steel springs. I’d need your help here as I’d want to get the correct part numbers out of the half dozen they use. I’ve got some data, just would want to confirm. (340AC/343AC) I’d likely grab some fox takeoffs as well. This is a good setup that could utilize the AEV shock extensions and Jeep the setup stock with the 2” spacer. ISSSUE is that it may only add 3/4”

B: order a 2” lift spring for the front and put the AEV spacer on it. This WOULD likely level me. ISSUE is AEV doesn’t “recommend” mixing their stuff with aftermarket (the spacer should still seat in the spring.) Also, would this need a longer shock despite having the extension? My guess is you’d get away with doing this with rubi shocks because it’s only an inch higher and has extensions from the AEV.

C: get a FOUR inch front spring and ditch the spacer. This would also level, but would likely need new end links (longer than the AEV ones) and also longer shocks and possibly ditch the extensions.

before And after

measured off the top of the tire. Plus/minus for camera angle etc..but we get the idea.

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[jac04]

My vote is for Option A. I would address the front with Rubicon springs. It seems that your heavier steel front bumper is causing the front to sag. I ran into the same issue with my JK - I installed a 2" AEV spacer lift along with a winch mount and Warn Zeon 10s. I had to change the front springs when I did the spacer lift to keep the front from sagging too much.

 

[USMC-SSGT]

My vote is for Option A. I would address the front with Rubicon springs. It seems that your heavier steel front bumper is causing the front to sag. I ran into the same issue with my JK - I installed a 2" AEV spacer lift along with a winch mount and Warn Zeon 10s. I had to change the front springs when I did the spacer lift to keep the front from sagging too much.

That gave you an inch or so in the front? It’s a good option as if I can’t find any local takeoffs I can get them for like $120 on moparparts etc. could also use my existing shocks and AEV extensions while I track down some fox takeoffs (and use those with AEV extensions.)

This won’t get me level, but if I could guess correctly at the right spring numbers I should get an inch. I don’t mind the rake…just not
2-3” of it

 

[jac04]

Remember, my experience was on a JK, and I knew that I could gain back the 3/4" of sag by going up 2 spring numbers. I don't know enough about the JT springs to know what the different part number springs will do. Typically, the higher the spring part number, the more lift you will get from it.

The other question is how are you measuring your rake? Measuring at the fenders is deceiving. Try measuring under your sliders or frame rails to see what the true rake is.

 

[USMC-SSGT]

The other question is how are you measuring your rake? Measuring at the fenders is deceiving. Try measuring under your sliders or frame rails to see what the true rake is.

Good call. I could also put a 4 foot level on my bed rails and measure the difference to level. This could eliminate option C if I didn’t need a full 2” lift

 

[jac04]

Yeah, I don't think you actually have as much rake as you think you do. For example, my Mojave has basically the same tire to fender clearance on the front and rear, but remember that the Mojave has the raised front fenders. However, there is still about 1" of rake as measured at the chassis. I thought about adding a 1/2" spacer to the front springs to level it, but I'm worried that it will then look nose-high due to tire/fender clearance being larger in front.

Be careful taking level measurements, even in a garage. My garage floor has a significant slope to it for drainage. I can actually wash my vehicles in the garage and the water flows right out.

 

[USMC-SSGT]

My garage does too so that’s a valid point. The only thing worse than too much rake, is nose high. That would be a total failure!
Actually, I’d just buy a heavy ass winch

 

[Renegade]

For what its worth in comparison, I'm running Synergy 2" springs and a 1" spacer in the front, with a 1.5" spacer in the rear (it's pretty level). I was running the 2" springs alone in the front with shock spacers, then with 28.5" long Fox 2.0 shocks, before adding the 1" spacer. I would suggest being picky about the front springs if you go that route. Mixing and matching can be a little tricky due to the variation of spring rates, and how different companies market their lift heights. Good luck.

 

[USMC-SSGT]

For what its worth in comparison, I'm running Synergy 2" springs and a 1" spacer in the front, with a 1.5" spacer in the rear (it's pretty level). I was running the 2" springs alone in the front with shock spacers, then with 28.5" long Fox 2.0 shocks, before adding the 1" spacer. I would suggest being picky about the front springs if you go that route. Mixing and matching can be a little tricky due to the variation of spring rates, and how different companies market their lift heights. Good luck.

I’ll have to look into that. Are you saying be picky about the rubicon shocks or an aftermarket like the synergy?

 

[tommyp]

Why not clayton 2.5" front springs. That should bring you up where you want to be without having to do driveshafts.

 

[USMC-SSGT]

Why not clayton 2.5" front springs. That should bring you up where you want to be without having to do driveshafts.

Definitely avoiding driveshafts or any other large necessary corrections brought on by a bigger lift. A bigger lift like that has a place, whether it’s the hundreds of members here who crush trails, or just those who love the look. That isn’t me at this point.

Why I was leaning rubicon springs with the AEV spacer since it’s the same spacer kit for all gladiators except the Mojave. Are you saying just the 2.5” Clayton springs or the 2.5 and the 2” AEV spacer? Curious if 2.5” plus the 2” may be too much? I need to get a better measurement to see where it really is. Appears to be 2 inches anyway. Also assume if I did the 2.5” Clayton plus a spacer with 4.5” lift I’d need different shocks as well.

 

[tommyp]

Definitely avoiding driveshafts or any other large necessary corrections brought on by a bigger lift. A bigger lift like that has a place, whether it’s the hundreds of members here who crush trails, or just those who love the look. That isn’t me at this point.

Why I was leaning rubicon springs with the AEV spacer since it’s the same spacer kit for all gladiators except the Mojave. Are you saying just the 2.5” Clayton springs or the 2.5 and the 2” AEV spacer? Curious if 2.5” plus the 2” may be too much? I need to get a better measurement to see where it really is. Appears to be 2 inches anyway. Also assume if I did the 2.5” Clayton plus a spacer with 4.5” lift I’d need different shocks as well.

Just the 2.5" clayton. It is 2.5ish over the rubicon so should put you close to where you want to be. Do you have shock extenders? Shocks are cheap enough and if you are going up 4" you are going to probably need a track bar.

It really doesn't matter if you don't wheel it there are just things that need to happen when you lift it. Longer control arms which you have. An adjustable track bar because your axles start moving sideways and longer shocks or extenders. The rear you may need extended brake lines and a trackbar if you go high. Again has nothing to do with wheeling. Just getting the truck right with the added lift.

 

[USMC-SSGT]

Just the 2.5" clayton. It is 2.5ish over the rubicon so should put you close to where you want to be. Do you have shock extenders?

That makes sense. I do have shock extenders with my factory overland shocks from the AEV kit.
This may be a good option as the rubicon is maybe an inch taller than the overland. This would put it about 3.5” taller than stock where I am now at 2”.

 

[Boostnu]

Have you thought about going a different direction by adjusting the rear instead of the front? You could drop the rear by going to a 1inch or 3/4in spacer. If you want it perfectly level you could take the rear spacer out all together. The biggest thing about doing what your wanting with the front is getting to the point of needing a new driveshaft along with shocks. What size tires are you running?

 

[tommyp]

That makes sense. I do have shock extenders with my factory overland shocks from the AEV kit.
This may be a good option as the rubicon is maybe an inch taller than the overland. This would put it about 3.5” taller than stock where I am now at 2”.

Yeah just make sure that its the right height. I put the clayton leveling springs on mine and it brought it up 2.5" they were supposed to be 1.5" I think but its 1.5" over the rubicons which are an inch taller than the sports. The 2.5's should get you 3.5" in the front when it settles. Which would be I think in the ball park for what you want. Any higher though and front driveshaft becomes an issue.

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