How to get 20mpg+ on 37’s/ECU basics 5/5 up @ 60-70mph with V6 3.6L

[joegrasse]

Id almost be curious to run my test loop with a pedal commander and compare.

I would be interested in your results with a pedal commander as well.

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[HarryM]

I appreciate all the comments on this thread. I have been researching this topic and seeing so much contradictory information. I have no technical expertise but this thread seems to be heading me in the right direction. I have a 2020 Gladiator Sport S. Living in Colorado, I mostly drive at altitude. The Gladiator is sluggish above 7500 feet and requires effort to maintain speed. Also, I would like to add weight with bumpers, etc. The only mod I have added is switching from tires from 245 to 285. Gearing is 3.73. Would this changes discussed help - high flow intake, exhaust and tuning? Should I look at 4.56? thanks

 

[KurtP]

I appreciate all the comments on this thread. I have been researching this topic and seeing so much contradictory information. I have no technical expertise but this thread seems to be heading me in the right direction. I have a 2020 Gladiator Sport S. Living in Colorado, I mostly drive at altitude. The Gladiator is sluggish above 7500 feet and requires effort to maintain speed. Also, I would like to add weight with bumpers, etc. The only mod I have added is switching from tires from 245 to 285. Gearing is 3.73. Would this changes discussed help - high flow intake, exhaust and tuning? Should I look at 4.56? thanks

While the gains of tuning are real; in your case (imo) you need gears first. 4.56 if youre staying 33” should be great.

If you can swing both, great, but id make gears my first priority in your case. Just be sure to pick the gears that fit the tires you want to end up with.

 

[HarryM]

Thanks. I was thinking 4.56 as I will get 35’s next and will stop there. I have the 285’s as Rubicon owners ditch them quickly after purchase so I got wheels and tires cheap. Make sense? Again I appreciate the help.

 

[KurtP]

Thanks. I was thinking 4.56 as I will get 35’s next and will stop there. I have the 285’s as Rubicon owners ditch them quickly after purchase so I got wheels and tires cheap. Make sense? Again I appreciate the help.

Yeah id say 4.56 at a minimum then. I dont think you could go wrong with 4.88 in your conditions though

 

[HarryM]

it is a daily driver and sees some long distance road trips. My off road skills are beginner so my off road travels are more fire roads and trails, no rock crawling. Does that impact my gearing choice?

 

[KurtP]

it is a daily driver and sees some long distance road trips. My off road skills are beginner so my off road travels are more fire roads and trails, no rock crawling. Does that impact my gearing choice?

Not in my opinion. 4.88 would be too deep for 33’s, but you’ll like them at high elevation when loaded with 35’s.

Ultimately, either would be fine, but living where you are I’d lean towards the 4.88. Im on 4.88/37’s, but im out east. If I lived where you did Id have gone 5.13

 

[HarryM]

Thanks for your advice.

 

[FR33DOM]

Not in my opinion. 4.88 would be too deep for 33’s, but you’ll like them at high elevation when loaded with 35’s.

Ultimately, either would be fine, but living where you are I’d lean towards the 4.88. Im on 4.88/37’s, but im out east. If I lived where you did Id have gone 5.13

I live in Colorado Springs and have 37” and got 5.13. If you know you are going to do 35” and no larger then I agree 4.88 is best. I sometimes wish I’d gone 5.38 (only 5% deeper) mostly because I will be towing a 4K trailer a lot starting this summer. Hoping to get a tuner setup like this pulsar then I’ll know. Also worst case is I can drop to 35” with a 2nd set of wheels and tires for when I tow but then I’m 1/2 way to getting a supercharger in cost! I have never seen anyone complain they’ve geared too deep but several wish they’d gone deeper.

 

[KurtP]

I live in Colorado Springs and have 37” and got 5.13. If you know you are going to do 35” and no larger then I agree 4.88 is best. I sometimes wish I’d gone 5.38 (only 5% deeper) mostly because I will be towing a 4K trailer a lot starting this summer. Hoping to get a tuner setup like this pulsar then I’ll know. Also worst case is I can drop to 35” with a 2nd set of wheels and tires for when I tow but then I’m 1/2 way to getting a supercharger in cost! I have never seen anyone complain they’ve geared too deep but several wish they’d gone deeper.

Agreed. Im on 37/4.88 and its fine for my purposes. It commutes great and I dont have issues even when loaded; but i was nervous about not getting 5.13. I really wanted to run 35’s but did 37’s, shamelessly, for the look. But there are alot of countries that wont allow a 37” tire, and if i had to step down to 35’s with 5.13 i dunno how i would have felt about it.

If i lived out west id no question go two ranges deeper than stock

 

[Mac Attack]

Agreed. Im on 37/4.88 and its fine for my purposes. It commutes great and I dont have issues even when loaded; but i was nervous about not getting 5.13. I really wanted to run 35’s but did 37’s, shamelessly, for the look. But there are alot of countries that wont allow a 37” tire, and if i had to step down to 35’s with 5.13 i dunno how i would have felt about it.

If i lived out west id no question go two ranges deeper than stock

OK, KurtP, I have designated you as a Subject Matter Expert (SME) for "electronic" increasing fuel mileage/range for Jeep JT's both gas and diesel. As such, your name has been entered in the "Jeeping Book of Honor"...much better than being in the "black" book. (btw, Jeeping Book of Honor is a figment of my imagination...so, don't get a big head, Bubba). This great award bestows upon you the distinct honor of receiving more and more questions of increasingly technical difficulties from the masses of Jeepers that just want to enjoy the benefits of jeeping without the nerdy stuff; with which you deal. As an SME, you are expected (as has been displayed in your previous statements) to be honest devoid of vendor influences, your own preconcieved notions, and feelings of the masses. This honor brings great credit upon you, your Jeep (s) and Jeep Nation. Congrats!

 

[KurtP]

OK, KurtP, I have designated you as a Subject Matter Expert (SME) for "electronic" increasing fuel mileage/range for Jeep JT's both gas and diesel. As such, your name has been entered in the "Jeeping Book of Honor"...much better than being in the "black" book. (btw, Jeeping Book of Honor is a figment of my imagination...so, don't get a big head, Bubba). This great award bestows upon you the distinct honor of receiving more and more questions of increasingly technical difficulties from the masses of Jeepers that just want to enjoy the benefits of jeeping without the nerdy stuff; with which you deal. As an SME, you are expected (as has been displayed in your previous statements) to be honest devoid of vendor influences, your own preconcieved notions, and feelings of the masses. This honor brings great credit upon you, your Jeep (s) and Jeep Nation. Congrats!

Way better than being an Instagram or onlyfans model!! Hahahaha

 

[RavensEyeOffroad]

Been thinking more about this.
So in theory you make x power at y pedal location (transmission gear aside for the moment), if you can increase the power at y throttle position you'll get further distance per engine revolution.
If you can get rid of pedal dead spots the above is further magnified, if you can get a better fuel trim for the computer to refer back to you'll enhance it even further.
Basically. Lol

 

[KurtP]

Been thinking more about this.
So in theory you make x power at y pedal location (transmission gear aside for the moment), if you can increase the power at y throttle position you'll get further distance per engine revolution.
If you can get rid of pedal dead spots the above is further magnified, if you can get a better fuel trim for the computer to refer back to you'll enhance it even further.
Basically. Lol

Sort of. Pedal delay and fuel trim dont correlate in that sense. Yes, trims are stored in the fueling table at throttle angles; but what we really want to do with a pedal corrector is stop the push nothing push nothing push more WOOMP go. We want push a little go a little. So if a small throttle angle/low load request is sufficient; we get it.

 

[KurtP]

I think the extra air drag from the lift impacted more than i would have thought. Weather conditions today arent for a perfect run; but Id guess its a 1.5-2mpg drop. Also currently have 400lb of cargo and in rolling hills.

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