I’m calling BULL

[Mrbizkitt]

I went with 35x12.5x17 Duratracs mounted on method 316’s. The Duratracs are 68lbs and the wheels are 24.7. I’m look at 93 lbs and the stock Mojave wheel weighed in at 90lbs. I only added roughly 3 more pounds on each corner and with the calibration from the Tazer I can honestly say I feel no difference from stock.

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[Orange01z28]

So what you're saying is... No MPG difference or? It will take a hit in MPG.
15-25%+ is quite a bit in my opinion, but that's why it's an opinion.

This is from personal experience w/ 35s and lift.

It definitely took an MPG hit, but I doubt I'd still be getting the stock 21-22mpg even with gears. I was saying that 1) The truck is not a dog and 2) the mpg is not "bad"

I'm consistently right around 19mpg with 3.73s and Toyo MTs in 35x12.5R17

 

[A 2]

Can I call “bull” on this thread? The sole result will be an argument. Hey, I’ve not tried something, and I want you to prove me wrong. Let’s go!
Physics is physics, so yeah, you’re right. Leave yours alone.

Haha! Yes, you certainly can. But I have tried something By putting those beefy 33s on my wife’s sport S. There is definitely a noticeable change. next up is 35s on the Gladiator.
Those that say there is no change are fooling themselves. Therefore I call Bull.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Most modern electronic control transmissions have a input (engine) and output (driveshaft) speed sensors that correlate the shift point data. Basic software programming will also factory in final gear drive ratio. Adding larger tires without telling the software messes up the final gear drive ratio and the data that is provided back to the transmission.

The electronic version of the governor on the output shaft and the throttle valve controlled by a modulator or linkage or cable to the throttle. Same things, different methods of sensing.

 

[Cripton805]

Maybe the two Jeeps I've owned are either broken, but I can't break 20mpg unless I'm going 55mph, cruise control, and flat land. I've owned both a Manual Sport JLU and a 8 speed Sport Willys JT.

My JT is a completely stock Willys and I don't drive it hard.
I just drive normal. I get 18mpg on the highway at 65/70 mph.

With 35x12s I get around 15mpg at sea level with the V6 around 65 / 70mph.
It was also considerably noticeable without being re-geared.

I'm not saying you're lying, but I don't know how you guys are getting over 20mpg on 35s.

 

[Kindafearless]

What wheels and tires did you go with? Do you know the weights?

Milestar Patagonia and Method 703s

~27.6 lbs and 72lbs

 

[dcmdon]

The electronic version of the governor on the output shaft and the throttle valve controlled by a modulator or linkage or cable to the throttle. Same things, different methods of sensing.

It all works out to the same thing. Manifold pressure and throttle position determine how much power you are asking the engine to make. If both are close to max and the transmission isn't in 1st gear already, it will drop a gear provided there is RPM overhead.

 

[AZCooWhip]

17+mpg on 37”s with a lift AND steel front and rear bumpers ... All day long. And it rides better and quieter than stock Rubi WITH STT Pros.

As far as install ....leverage is your friend. Have a pipe or something handy and lift ..

 

[Jeep Addict]

I’m running 38’s so can’t help with mpg’s but can help with lifting those tires. Best $159 you can spend, your back will thank you.

 

[FLGladiator]

If you have a Rubicon / Mojave, the 4.10 gears will help it.

The Sport will be a dog and bad on gas. You also have to recalibrate the trans shift points on the auto or it will constantly shift in and out of gears. If you have a manual, it feels even slower.

Or Max tow.

 

[stickshifter]

I screwed up with my first round of changes… bought great stuff, but it was too heavy and totally effected gas mileage, ride, everything.

Bit the bullet and swapped it all for aluminum, removed parts that weren’t doing anything, and went to lighter wheels and tires.

It’s a weight game, but you can be creative to get what you want. My 37s and 17s are 20lbs lighter than my previous 35s and you can feel the difference.

This ^^

Heavy tires/wheels will affect acceleration, braking, and cornering. They also place more wear on steering components. Regearing can bring the truck back into factory-designed ratios, but the mass is still there. But if it matters to you, you can find light wheels and light tires that really mitigate moving up in tire size.

Light Wheels: Volk wheels are crazy light (18-19 pounds), but also crazy expensive ($750-900 per wheel, depending on model). Not sure how durable they would be if you are wheeling hard; these are not a choice I would make. Method 313 wheels in 17x8.5 with +25 offset, weigh only 23.5 lbs. These are the same size, with same offset, as AEV wheels designed for Gladiators running 35s or 37s that are 12.5 wide, but they are 7-10 pounds lighter per wheel (depending on which AEV wheel you look at). I'm sure there are other light wheels out there.

Light Tires: Its hard to find light MTs, but some are definitely lighter than others. Nitto and Toyo make awesome tires, but they are usually the heaviest tires in their class. Buy these if you prioritize off-road ruggedness over weight. KO2s are a pretty rugged AT, and they are pretty light for an aggressive AT. Ford asked BFG to develop a lighter version of the KO2 in 37-inches specifically for the new high-end Raptor package. These are C-rated 37 x 12.5 tires, and will be available to the public soon. There are a gazillion other tires; this is the best site I know of for getting data on tires (size, weight, speed rating, load rating, etc): https://tiresize.com/tires/BFGoodrich/ (this link goes to the BFG page, but you will see links on the left for other major brands).

If you run the Method wheel with the new Raptor version of the KO2, you can have 37s for about the same weight as many 35-inch setups.

 

[A 2]

I’m running 38’s so can’t help with mpg’s but can help with lifting those tires. Best $159 you can spend, your back will thank you.

I could have used this over the weekend For 33s. I’m not a big guy, 35s are going to be a bear. Heck, I’m not sure if my 3ton jack is going to be high enough.

 

[Terminus33]

And I'm surprised no one has mentioned the fact that if you change tire diameter and don't calibrate the size of that tire with your truck then you are committing irreversible odometer fraud! OH NOES. Seriously though the longer you drive with the wrong size tires the more off the odo will be. If the odometer is reading wrong then so will your speed and MPG, even if you try to manually calculate it because you are using incorrect miles for that calculation.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

And I'm surprised no one has mentioned the fact that if you change tire diameter and don't calibrate the size of that tire with your truck then you are committing irreversible odometer fraud! OH NOES. Seriously though the longer you drive with the wrong size tires the more off the odo will be. If the odometer is reading wrong then so will your speed and MPG, even if you try to manually calculate it because you are using incorrect miles for that calculation.

Exactly. The odometer will be giving you false figures so even using a phone app will be a lie - it will be based on fake mile driven.

 

[Renegade]

I could have used this over the weekend For 33s. I’m not a big guy, 35s are going to be a bear. Heck, I’m not sure if my 3ton jack is going to be high enough.

Sit down on the floor with a foot on either side of the tire. Roll the tire up on one foot wile sticking the other under the tire while it’s on the one foot. Using both feet, raise the tire to the level of the hub, and use your hands to guide it onto the wheel studs. It takes a little practice, but one you figure it out it’s fairly easy.

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