Installing Maximus-3 Tow Loops

[Dan in Pasadena]

Finally installed the Maximus-3 tow loops that have been sitting on my bench for months. I plan on towing it behind our RV a couple times next month.

It should be a fairly easy job, but it's not with pretty poor instructions and poor black & white pictures. This isn't a true "How To" thread, rather a warning that it CAN be done but expect to be frustrated doing it.

You've got to remove the entire bumper including front crash pan. - It's nearly 1/4" plate and you have to translate millimeters to inches to locate 1-1/2" holes, then slot w/cutting wheel so the 3/4" plate loops will protrude from below - Yes, they give the dimensions partly in millimeters and partly in inches. Also, there are bolts that are supposed to protrude outward from factory holes and it is an absolute pain in the 'nards to get the bolts in using tiny factory access holes without dropping them into a dead hole multiple times like I did. But putting nuts in there would be worse.

Anyway, I broke the pilot drill bit on the hole saw, accidentally cut wires as I punched through the first hole and had to repair that. Filed the slot edges and painted to avoid rust. Tomorrow I'll finish as the "no-see-um" gnats were biting the hell out of my ankles. I'll slot the crash pan a little, reconnect the electrical, then test fit & test tow tomorrow. These loops are in place of a base plate which would be more visible as it is on my current toad, a 2012 Fiat 500.

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[Kevin_D]

They're a lot easier to install on the plastic bumper.
And if you were worried about visibility, why'd you go with the red ones?
Did you consider the Maximus-3 Tie Rod as well?

Kevin

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Good to know about the plastic bumper but I'm glad to have the metal one overall.

I don't mind the red because it matches the factory recovery hooks on the Rubicon.

Yes, I have the tie rod, just haven't installed it yet. My RV is in the shop getting the heater repaired so I am HOPING I get it back tomorrow to test this install.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Finished notching the belly pan on the Jeep to complete the tow loops install this morning. Fits pretty well after filing and painting. I'm pretty pleased.

But I FAILED in my (accidental) attempt to cut off the tip of my index finger. It's the same finger tip I cut with a cut off wheel when I removed a plate that was welded over the bed wood in my then-derelict '55 Chevy truck. I never regained all the feeling in that finger tip so now I'll probably have no feeling in it at all - though I had enough feeling that it HURT LIKE HELL to do this!

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Following up on this thread:

I'll be flat towing the Gladiator behind my 26 ft. Class C 26 RV for the first time starting next week. Previously we towed a little Fiat 500; which we still, have but I've wanted to make the Gladiator flat towable for (what we hope is) a couple months long trip to Canada and back sometime in the next year. We'll see how the RV does on this test tow. Yes, I have a brake controller. I installed Maximus-3 recovery loops on the Gladiator rather than a frame mounted baseplate based on info I found on this site. Anyone with experience doing this PLEASE add comment.

Bit of a pain in the neck because the "things" - whatever is their proper name - on the end of the Falcon 2 tow bar had to be changed to interface with the loops instead of the baseplate on the Fiat. Plus, I added the cross tie bar but the supplied bolts were not long enough. Had to get longer Grade 8 bolts & washers and all was good. PLEASE let me know if you see anything you question.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Hey you guys: I attempted to hookup my truck to the RV this morning to take a short "test tow." All was well UNTIL I tried to attach the safety cables to the Maximus loops. The loops are 3/4" steel and the cable hooks don't open wide enough to go through. I have a couple large shackles (correct term?) and they wouldn't open wide enough either.

Home Depot's largest were the same as these so I bought the biggest/strongest threaded loops rated at 3300 lbs each. They would have worked great but don't open enough to get them through the loops either.

What are you guys with Maximus-3 loops doing to attach safety cables or chains?

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

EDIT: just found a video on Youtube that shows a guy using these Maximus tow loops on his Wrangler. Caught a screen shot (sorry for the lousy focus) so apparently my attempt was a good one, I just need a larger D ring shackle.

 

[sarguy1941]

Try tractor supply. I got some "threaded chain links" there for mine that slide over the plates and thread tight.

Something like this -

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/national-hardware-3150bc-1-2-quick-link-zinc

 

[KVJ]

Try an anchor shackle
https://www.uscargocontrol.com/products/Crosby-Anchor-Shackle-Screw-Pin-5-8-G-209A-5-Ton

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

URGENT QUESTION - Leaving truck switch on "ACC"

Can I leave the truck in "ACC" position while I tow it?

The brake controller needs a constant hot and the 12v/Cig lighter isn't hot if the truck is Off. There is no 2nd 12v/Cig lighter outlet like on JK in center console!

Will it hurt anything to leave it on for several hours while I tow the truck?

EDIT: Did a quick Google search. Opinions varied from it won't hurt anything to leave it on ACC for 2 hours to several days. First stop tomorrow will be about a 2+ hour drive. I THINK I'll be fine.

There's a Youtube video for JL's saying if you move a fuse from one position to another in the fuse block the auxiliary 12v outlet in the rear goes from switched to constant hot! No such info about our JT's and of course there is no 2nd 12v outlet in the truck anyway - no, my Rubicon doesn't have one in the bed.

 

[Blade1668]

Dan does your JT have AUX switches? If so one wire in the bundle is "constant hot" you could use for power. Red/White 10 amp on 20 JT.
Mine shuts off ACC after certain length of time.

On the finger "I know" your pain of sorts... especially when weather changes or cold. Peeled twisted inside Kevlar glove some how when, getting out of way of copper jacketed greetings. *photo is when healing up.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

UGH on the finger. I'm getting more injury prone as I get older. Which really translates to just, "I'm getting old". DAMN. Wish it were otherwise but probably isn't.

No, my truck does not have Aux switches, wish it did. I bought it used through Carmax in 2021 when it was about a year old with 15,000 miles on it.

When I get home after this trip I'm going to have to search for a constant hot. I put the switch on ACC when we left. After 2 hours and 100 miles when we arrived I went to turn it off but it was ALREADY "OFF". Not sure how that happened? Maybe Jeep engineers made it so it'll revert to off if you happen to leave it on ACC so it won't drain battery?

This means the auxiliary brake system wasn't functioning during the drive at some point - though I never noticed. Good thing I didn't have to panic stop or even brake hard.

 

[Kevin_D]

I used these for the safety cables:

CURT 81288 Snap Hook Trailer Safety Chain Hook Carabiner Clip, 9/16-Inch Diameter, 5,000 lbs https://a.co/d/bCBeco8

As for the brake controller, I use a Brake Buddy. I tried rewiring the the 12V socket for constant power, but the Brake Buddy would drop out with, “Low Voltage.” I ended up running a dedicated feed from the battery with a 30A fuse.

I tow with a 36’ Class A, and most of the time I can’t even tell the Jeep is back there.

Kevin

 

[Snapper692]

What wiring harness did you use with your setup?

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Quick FYI for anyone doing a search on the Maximus loops. Towed my Gladiator to Ventura and now to north of Santa Barbara. They tow the truck fine. Tows straight, doesn't seem to be a particular heavy load on my F350 RV with Triton V10.

BUT, connecting/disconnecting the loops is a pain in the ass compared to when I towed my Fiat 500 with RoadMaster baseplate and it's cross bar. The short reason is the large 1" pins that go through the loops won't come out unless driven out with a large punch and hammer. I use a small single jack. There is just enough play between loop and pin that they bind unless you happen to come to a stop with the toad PRECISELY straight behind you - not usual in campgrounds.

Also, the thickness of the loops - as mentioned above - require you to use huge D style shackles to attach safety cables. All this works fine but just a hassle compared to the RoadMaster stuff in my opinion.

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