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Invoice price or below, post them here!

misanthrope

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Where are you finding this % under invoice information for locations? I'm in Wisconsin. Any info for around here?

Also, is invoice the same as MSRP?
Invoice is around 4.5% under MSRP on the vehicle itself, and around 11% under MSRP on any optional equipment. It is also commonly known as FWP, or Factory Wholesale Price, and is generally (and incorrectly) accepted as the price the dealer pays for the unit, and 1% below this number is where any negotiations should begin. Many Affiliate Rewards programs guarantee 1% below invoice pricing at participating dealers (which all the best dealers are), and getting an Affiliate Reward is easy by signing up for Tread Lightly.

The map of recommended dealers can be found at the JLWranglerforums sister site, which hundreds of threads regarding purchasing and ordering, including contact information for specific salesmen, which is usually the only way to secure these deals.

If I were west of the Mississippi, I would contact the dealers in the Nampa/Boise, Idaho area like Petersen's and Dillon's to order at around 8% below invoice (works out to around 12-13% below MSRP) and then plan an awesome road trip back home in my new Gladiator. There are some great deals to be had on the East Coast, so I'll be staying here. Around the middle of the country it gets a bit more sparse, with some good deals in Arkansas and Indiana, but no one can beat the deals in Idaho.
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steffen707

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Invoice is around 4.5% under MSRP on the vehicle itself, and around 11% under MSRP on any optional equipment. It is also commonly known as FWP, or Factory Wholesale Price, and is generally (and incorrectly) accepted as the price the dealer pays for the unit, and 1% below this number is where any negotiations should begin. Many Affiliate Rewards programs guarantee 1% below invoice pricing at participating dealers (which all the best dealers are), and getting an Affiliate Reward is easy by signing up for Tread Lightly.

The map of recommended dealers can be found at the JLWranglerforums sister site, which hundreds of threads regarding purchasing and ordering, including contact information for specific salesmen, which is usually the only way to secure these deals.

If I were west of the Mississippi, I would contact the dealers in the Nampa/Boise, Idaho area like Petersen's and Dillon's to order at around 8% below invoice (works out to around 12-13% below MSRP) and then plan an awesome road trip back home in my new Gladiator. There are some great deals to be had on the East Coast, so I'll be staying here. Around the middle of the country it gets a bit more sparse, with some good deals in Arkansas and Indiana, but no one can beat the deals in Idaho.
That may be the most useful post on on this forum, thank you so much. Pretty sure I got hosed buying our van recently. I paid like 1.5% under msrp, God.

Thanks again!
 

steffen707

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misanthrope

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That may be the most useful post on on this forum, thank you so much. Pretty sure I got hosed buying our van recently. I paid like 1.5% under msrp, God.

Thanks again!
S'O.K., I felt great about getting our Pilot at $500 over invoice last year, till I started surfing the Honda forums. Could have saved another $1500 easily. Live and learn.

With Tread Lightly, you can't just mention it. You have to actually print out an AR certificate, of which you are entitled to 2 per year. And you must be a Tread Lightly member for at least 30 days prior to delivery, and at the $100 level or higher.
 

steffen707

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S'O.K., I felt great about getting our Pilot at $500 over invoice last year, till I started surfing the Honda forums. Could have saved another $1500 easily. Live and learn.

With Tread Lightly, you can't just mention it. You have to actually print out an AR certificate, of which you are entitled to 2 per year. And you must be a Tread Lightly member for at least 30 days prior to delivery, and at the $100 level or higher.
So you donate $100, be a member for at least 100 days, print out the AR certificate, then you'll get about 1% below invoice at a participating dealer?

But if you poke around on the wrangler jl forum, you can find specific dealerships and salesman that will give even better pricing?

like for that 8% below invoice place in Idaho, do you have to be a Tread Lightly member, or work for an affiliate, or are they just giving that price to anybody that says they know about the good discount?

What makes Idaho have the best pricing in the Nation?
 

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misanthrope

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So you donate $100, be a member for at least 100 days, print out the AR certificate, then you'll get about 1% below invoice at a participating dealer?

But if you poke around on the wrangler jl forum, you can find specific dealerships and salesman that will give even better pricing?

like for that 8% below invoice place in Idaho, do you have to be a Tread Lightly member, or work for an affiliate, or are they just giving that price to anybody that says they know about the good discount?

What makes Idaho have the best pricing in the Nation?
The couple of dealers in Idaho just are the best deals. Dunno how or why they can do 8% below invoice, but that's as low as we've seen. They do require dealer financing which is rather high, but most people just refi as quickly as they can. As far as requiring Tread Lighlty or another AR code, I'm not sure, as I'm not buying from them (tempted to, just to drive home via Moab, but too far).
I believe the Tread Lightly requirement is only 30 day, btw, unless that has changed.
 

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So you donate $100, be a member for at least 100 days, print out the AR certificate, then you'll get about 1% below invoice at a participating dealer?

But if you poke around on the wrangler jl forum, you can find specific dealerships and salesman that will give even better pricing?

like for that 8% below invoice place in Idaho, do you have to be a Tread Lightly member, or work for an affiliate, or are they just giving that price to anybody that says they know about the good discount?

What makes Idaho have the best pricing in the Nation?

Some dealers have chosen to be high volume low margin. Being high volume also increase the kickbacks dealers get from FCA are larger. Low volume have to rely on larger margins to make a profit.
 

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I stoped at a Jeep dealer in a bigger city close to my little town. I told him I was looking for a dealer willing to go - 6% invoice on a JT. I explained that I know that he probably could not promise anything as of now because all the info on the JT was not yet released. I told him that many dealers where offering -6% invoice on the JL and that if he could do that for my wife we would also get a JL from him.

He said to me who are these dealer lying to you about -6% invoice on the JL. I said I don't think you are the dealer that I am looking for Have a nice day.
 

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To me it boils down to something rather simple. At the end of the day any dealership has to make some profit on a car sale in order to pay the light bill and to make some money along the way. They have to pay for the dealership, sales salaries, parts salaries etc. Don’t know if everyone knows it but there is something called “holdback” that is listed on every dealers car invoice. At the bottom line of an invoice it may show you that they pay a total of $30,000.00 for a car. And look above that total on the itemized charges and you may see something like $600.0 hb. That’s their holdback. So it they tell you that they will sell it to you at cost plus $200.00 profit for them then they really make a total of $800.00 profit. Plus they will try to tack on door edge guards that you can’t even see and charge you $200 for that and another $300 for undercarriage protection that you also can’t see. They may also try to throw on a locking lug but on each wheel and charge 10 times what you could pay for it at any Auto Zone Store. And they may try to charge you for nitro, some gas(or possibly just air) pumped into the tires. And don’t forget their “admin” charge, just another way of saying additional profit.

Suggest that you tell them up front not to dare put anything on the truck when it gets onto their lot and try to negotiate the admin fee up front.

They will also try to make money on financing and will give you peanuts for your trade. Always best to try to sell your trade if you can before your truck gets in. Otherwise you will take a bath on the little amount of money they will give you for your trade. That’s one area where they can make a big profit at your expense.

And finally their service department will love to charge you as much as possible for anything they have to add to your truck. That cost will be added to the deal as well.

Always best to get all itemized charges listed down and agreed to up front, when you order your truck so you don’t have to do battle with them when your dream ride finally shows up after such a long wait.
 

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To me it boils down to something rather simple. At the end of the day any dealership has to make some profit on a car sale in order to pay the light bill and to make some money along the way. They have to pay for the dealership, sales salaries, parts salaries etc. Don’t know if everyone knows it but there is something called “holdback” that is listed on every dealers car invoice. At the bottom line of an invoice it may show you that they pay a total of $30,000.00 for a car. And look above that total on the itemized charges and you may see something like $600.0 hb. That’s their holdback. So it they tell you that they will sell it to you at cost plus $200.00 profit for them then they really make a total of $800.00 profit. Plus they will try to tack on door edge guards that you can’t even see and charge you $200 for that and another $300 for undercarriage protection that you also can’t see. They may also try to throw on a locking lug but on each wheel and charge 10 times what you could pay for it at any Auto Zone Store. And they may try to charge you for nitro, some gas(or possibly just air) pumped into the tires. And don’t forget their “admin” charge, just another way of saying additional profit.

Suggest that you tell them up front not to dare put anything on the truck when it gets onto their lot and try to negotiate the admin fee up front.

They will also try to make money on financing and will give you peanuts for your trade. Always best to try to sell your trade if you can before your truck gets in. Otherwise you will take a bath on the little amount of money they will give you for your trade. That’s one area where they can make a big profit at your expense.

And finally their service department will love to charge you as much as possible for anything they have to add to your truck. That cost will be added to the deal as well.

Always best to get all itemized charges listed down and agreed to up front, when you order your truck so you don’t have to do battle with them when your dream ride finally shows up after such a long wait.
I believe holdback is not added to customers orders only on dealer allotment.

The information that you can find on this forum makes it very easy to get the best deal on a JT. It won't be long before pricing and banks open up. With that we will get invoice pricing. Find a dealer that will get you the best price from that information and agree and order your JT with or without any of the dealer extras. Mine will be without. The rest of the info is irrelevant to my purchase.
 

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Great info - thank you!

One other thing about a trade is they are selling it on for kbb/retail but buying it wholesale ish. Margin can be thousands per unit. New car margin more like hundreds per unit. So the larger profit is in used market.

I'm guessing Idaho because map. As in, this is how they get on it. Boise is a nice town, smart business environment, so be for sure they are getting it right, and we benefit!
 

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I stoped at a Jeep dealer in a bigger city close to my little town. I told him I was looking for a dealer willing to go - 6% invoice on a JT. I explained that I know that he probably could not promise anything as of now because all the info on the JT was not yet released. I told him that many dealers where offering -6% invoice on the JL and that if he could do that for my wife we would also get a JL from him.

He said to me who are these dealer lying to you about -6% invoice on the JL. I said I don't think you are the dealer that I am looking for Have a nice day.
I think I would have shown him the map with all the dealers that are doing it and let him know that you can buy from or you can not.
 

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Hold back is a credit that the manufacturer gives to the dealership. I believe that it is given to them on every single car.
 

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For anyone near Idaho, I had a quick exchange with Kent at Peterson in Boise after asking for some details. His fees include a $299 doc fee, your state's title transfer fee, and a $9 dollar travel permit. There is no benefit to having FCA affiliate benefits or Tread Lightly, as they won't affect his pricing. Save your money if you're buying from him and don't already have Tread Lightly (unless you want it for other reasons, of course). I asked about financing a bit and he said they do require you to finance in house and ask that you keep the loan for 6 months. Loans are simple interest so you're welcome to make a big payment on the first month and reduce your overall interest cost. Seems like interest is their main source of profit on these kinds of deals, but it clearly still benefits the buyer to put up with that for a bit. I'll road trip home to Utah once my order comes in.
 

beelzebot

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Forgot to mention, his sources tell him ordering will open in February but as we've seen, info on availability should be taken with a grain of salt.
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