Jack points front and rear

[Hootbro]

Here is the OEM info for the four point hoist. Pretty much if you use common sense, any accessible point on the frame can be used for the most part.

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[Ar4130]

5 hours of research, setup and figuring it all out, removing the rear tires. Only to get under the Jeep and realize you can’t loosen the FUCKING CONTROL ARM BOLTS ? ?

They are torqued to 190 ft lbs. You will need a decent impact (I used the Milwaukee m18 mid torque) or a long breaker bar And some muscle if you don’t have one. You will also need a torque wrench capable of 190 ft lbs to re-torque them, when you get her done and back on the ground. Definitely the hardest part.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Yep. Suspension parts are nasty tight. My torque wrench will do 250ft lbs, but it’s a back breaker.

 

[dcmdon]

Is this what you guys due to rotate the tires too?

I've been paying to get tires rotated because I don't have the right jackstands for a vehicle this high. Changing a single tire is a different story

You don't need jack stands to rotate tires. A jack is fine. You aren't under the truck, so no big deal.

 

[JTR178]

5 hours of research, setup and figuring it all out, removing the rear tires. Only to get under the Jeep and realize you can’t loosen the FUCKING CONTROL ARM BOLTS ? ?

Wait until it's time to torque them back. It's not a fun time.

 

[Hootbro]

Wait until it's time to torque them back. It's not a fun time.

Yeah, on the ground and on ones back, it is a pisser to properly torque it to spec.

I have gotten to the point of where ever my Milwaukee impact is on high setting and give it the beans, is good enough for me.

 

[Challenger85]

Why not? Do you have an impact?

I have my Milwaukee fuel impact driver but it wasn’t breaking anything loose. But that’s more of a drill than a traditional impact. I put it up and had the tires off and couldn’t not get them loose. I dropped it and put the tires back on and was ready to go to Home Depot when my neighbor came by and offered be a breaker bar. That did the trick but was just the beginning of the nightmare lol.

 

[Challenger85]

Wait until it's time to torque them back. It's not a fun time.

Oh I know lol, I am beyond sore today..

 

[Challenger85]

They are torqued to 190 ft lbs. You will need a decent impact (I used the Milwaukee m18 mid torque) or a long breaker bar And some muscle if you don’t have one. You will also need a torque wrench capable of 190 ft lbs to re-torque them, when you get her done and back on the ground. Definitely the hardest part.

The rear is 190? I got them loose with a breaker bar my neighbor gave me. But the AEV instructions called for 111ft-lbs and 60-95 degrees for the rear. The front is 190 I saw.

 

[OHJeeper]

The rear is 190? I got them loose with a breaker bar my neighbor gave me. But the AEV instructions called for 111ft-lbs and 60-95 degrees for the rear. The front is 190 I saw.

Those have got to be wrong... This is from the MOPAR kit:

 

[Challenger85]

Well after raising it, lowering it and putting it back together me neighbor gave me the bar and that worked. Got everything torn apart and had a hell of a time putting the springs in by myself. I couldn’t get the end links loose, it was spinning and I was getting nowhere. I cut the first one but cut in the wrong place.. Hacked at it forever until I got it loose enough that I could hacksaw the bolt, gigantic waste of time. Neighbor had smaller vice grips than I did so I was able to hold the second one in the middle and get the not loose. Got one end link back in and the other didn’t want to go, at all. The instructions made no sense because the orientation doesn’t seem correct either. The instructions show this

But that’s backwards of how the OEM were installed. The bolt went through on the inside and this photos on the outside. But it’s not even close to going together like that. I really question this now. I had to force one sway bar to get the top bolt started and it just didn’t feel like it should have been that hard and made me nervous. Drilled everything and got the bracket put on. I tightened best I could with my torque wrench and Allen wrench socket but it’s it’s slightly too small. So I have metric or they are metric, but I have to go back and make sure it’s torqued correctly. They’re tight but not to spec, likewise with the bump stop spacers. They’re in and have the nuts on them but I need the correct Allen wrench to crank on them. I had to have my wife help me tighten the control arms because holding the nut and torquing 111ft-lbs from your back is not fun. 10 hours and all I did was get the rear done, I’m tired and sore AF.

Now I’m questioning if I messed up the control arms too.. I was just thinking about how I had the axle being held up by the jack and I didn’t let off the pressure or lift of it once I got the end end links and shocks installed. I was wondering if you could torque it down at an incorrect angle?

 

[Challenger85]

Those have got to be wrong... This is from the MOPAR kit:

sweet Jesus 111 was bad enough.

 

[Ar4130]

The rear is 190? I got them loose with a breaker bar my neighbor gave me. But the AEV instructions called for 111ft-lbs and 60-95 degrees for the rear. The front is 190 I saw.

111 plus 60-95 degrees of additional rotation will put you at approx 190 ft lbs. Looks like even the mopar specs call for similar numbers at 185 ft lbs. Actually says 200 for uca to frame. Lol thats tough. Need a nice long torque wrench for that lol.

End links use an allen key in the center of the stud. Hold in place with the allen key and use an open end wrench, ideally a ratcheting one to remove the bolt.

 

[Challenger85]

111 plus 60-95 degrees of additional rotation will put you at approx 190 ft lbs. Looks like even the mopar specs call for similar numbers at 185 ft lbs. Actually says 200 for uca to frame. Lol thats tough. Need a nice long torque wrench for that lol.

End links use an allen key in the center of the stud. Hold in place with the allen key and use an open end wrench, ideally a ratcheting one to remove the bolt.

Well if that’s the case why not just set the wrench to 200? ??‍ Are they assuming people don’t have torque wrench’s that go that high?

 

[Orange01z28]

You don't need jack stands to rotate tires. A jack is fine. You aren't under the truck, so no big deal.

You don't need jack stands to rotate tires. A jack is fine. You aren't under the truck, so no big deal.

That only works if you’re doing a five tire rotation. I have the stock spare wheel with a matching tire for emergencies, but the offsite is different so I can’t use it every day. And there’s the aesthetics of it all

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