tysongladiator
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Exactly?
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Jeep reliability - most common issues?
- Thread starter yankeehilldude
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ScottBeach
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Jeep quality has gone downhill since they started installing death wobble. Just factory order and ask to delete death wobble. You will never have a problem
Deleted member 52902
In 2008 I bought a Sahara Unlimited JK. My second JEEP, after having a 1966 Gladiator. The JK is still with me, 133,000 miles later. Low mileage I suppose but I love it. These days at 689 years old its gone from mild off roading on the farm, to less driving it on pavement. In its modest variety of use from tough to pavement use, its never failed to get me there. One door lock intermittent, replaced. One EGR valve stuck in closed position (no driving issue, just emissions go high) replaced. Aside from maintenance parts replacements like plugs, wires, belt, two rear shocks after one appeared leaky but still seemed to be doing its job, brakes, tires, etc; normal things you expect or should replace in time - zip, nada, zero, nothing else. Oh, three windshields but living near a rock quarry with their trucks on the road all the time, hello.
Now there has been some recalls but no more than my wifes SUBARU Forester or previous HONDA Pilot. I did have an itty bitty oil leak, apparently from the rear of the intake manifold. Local dealer took care of that under my factory lifetime powertrain warranty (which was a new JK promotional thing). And that is it. Maybe one of my doors needs new hinge pins as it is a bit "draggy" to open. Passenger seat belt doesn't want to fully retract but a little jiggle, and retracts fully. I do change the rear Trac-loc (limited slip) differential fluid more often than recommended as, I think the clutch plates dirty up the fluid visibly, faster than the front Dana. I am utterly impressed with this JEEP. Even don't mind the comparitive sluggo 3.8 liter engine vs the 2010-later Pentastar 3.6 l. Which I have in a RAM Promaster 3500EXT/WINNEBAGO Travato dealing with something about 8,500-ish pounds of weight.
That bugger actually does a decent job up and down 6% grades which amazes my wife and I both. And I might add, a flabberghasting ability to average above 17 mpg on every single long distance trip. Around town only, its a bit of a pig but you can imagine stop sign/light starts pulling that kind of weigth. Point being that engine never complains and is quite spry for this duty.
My wife and I can complain about high frontal or cross winds where the recirculating ball steering can wear on you mentally and physically if practicing keeping in your lane on a longer trip. Brick shape and not rack and pinion combine to make that a bit of work. But the type of steering hardware chosen for the Wrangler and Gladiator makes total sense for its off road basis. Frankly speaking; if your getting a Wrangler or Gladiator for looks but drive it mostly on pavement or maintained dirty/gravel roads, you don't need either one of these vehicles. You might pay even $10,000 less for a FORD Ranger, NISSAN Frontier or if your legs are on the shorter side, a TOYOTA Tacoma could be a comfortable buy. HONDA Ridgeline fits fundamental bed size but its priced about the same as a Gladiator. Road princess or truly want, or need off-road? Gladiator to me is the top of the list. Period. Because of my experience with the JK, I am about to buy a JL Gladiator; hence my joining this group a few months back. But why did I join this group before having a JL?
You have to understand my wife and I take a looong time to buy vehicles. Before and after we met and married. And we keep them a long time. A bit over a year before we took a check into our local RV dealer to buy the last vehicle, the RAM/WINNEBAGO (Travato). Dealer didn't accept our offer by the way. We have a thing where we thank them nicely while still standing, and exit not on a run but not slowly either. Plan B was another same-equipped unit about 500 miles away. Same check in hand; completed the acceptance. Then we sat down and processed paper. The point for this paragraph; we treat them nice even if the dealer folks lean toward, well, slimy. We don't do the back and forth thing. We don't buy ANY extras from the dealer, including extended warranties. You can get those in different channels, even after purchase completed within a short time. We already have worked out what Insurance will cost us. We already know what Title fees and local tax will be, all included in our check which is already funded. Your going to have to break your piggy bank and/or do part (or some might do all?) a loan anyway. You can usually do better with a bank or credit union rates, and pre-approval. How that plays out can make a difference in whether you can waltz into a dealer with a check in hand or not which believe me, really works but just having pre-approval for X amount really saves you sit-down time at a dealer. Just know that if you have credit checks taking place, each one can your current credit score number before you chose one to use. Put the ball in your court. But you have to maintain total nice-person at the dealer. Abstain from smirks, digs, frowns, concerned or unsure-of glancing at your wife or whomever came with you a lot; your losing control.
Trade-ins. Your going to dealer jail if your going to let them work with a trade-in. Don't do that. Sell it yourself. Easier said than done for many. Having people visit you and drive your still-necessary ride may invade your life. Could even be risky. Work it out, don't do a trade-in. This presents a variable that cannot be used in the above. Regardless of your insistence of exactly X dollars for your used vehicle, i is probably going to get you hung up, in a sit down with the dealer person leaving the room a few times, coming back each time with a negotiation. Could be a shocking insult for your baby. That maybe has some fault(s) that you are not telling them? If so, isn't this looking a bit like ALFRED E NUEMAN's Spy vs Spy?
Yes... it can be a pain in the rear axle to self-sell your used vehicle. Sometimes can take weeks or months. What you want for your proud possession might have to be dropped a lot. Well gee; does it hurt less if you sell for what the dealer trade-in offer comes too? They can off-it to an auction or keep it on their lot, longer than you might want to sell it for on your own but in the end, if you trade-it in for instant gratification of that shiny new Gladiator, hours after you walked into the dealer, your already going to sell it to the dealer for less. What? You got what you wanted, if you think you could have sold it to Tom, Dick or Harry on your own? The price of that Gladiator will have been adjusted, or that extended maintenance contract will not get lowered as much as the dealer could, to make sure their profit margin makes for good commissions and end of year bonus checks. You do realize your money adds to the pockets of not just the sales person at the dealer, right? The salesperson that disappears part way through the sit-down in the wheel and deal stage, never to be seen again in that office or cubicle until signatures are completed.
Yes - Been there, done that myself with my first new car purchase, many , many years ago. Seemed fine. Dad did this every three-four years when he bought a new family car and always traded in the old ride. I still miss our cavornous 1959 CHEVROLET Kingswood station wagon to this day that he traded that in for a 1962 Corvair Monza.
So.... However you mull over getting a new or used vehicle, you will find all sorts of things people complain about. Even TOYOTA's which I think are still typically good but frankly mass production to feed the world puts a dent in their shiny armor too. To me, the Gladiator doesn't have more issues than the next ride, except maybe the diesel engine has had a bit more real-life trouble. Some guys (mostly guys I think) will complain the Pentastar isn't the right engine, isn't powerful enough to go fast or "right" for their type of off-road use. Still steers like a truck; gee because a JK, JL and JT are truck framed and recirculating ball steering trucks. And having the max tow package means the rear axle is a higher ratio that will get you less street mpg. And then add some 37 inch tires and higher ground clearance and weight and air flow limiting additions; its no longer as-original truckish smooth, turning radius, steering (cough) precise as it was when you bought the new-new, stock JT. Multi-purpose street and rock vehicle will have some pros and cons but for looks or real off road use, if it does want you want or need, just know it may have a few drawbacks in other situations. Driving back and forth to work 5 days a week might become less enchanting in the tricked out JT from the driving perspective. Stuck in stop and go traffic. Enjoying that JT model you wanted with the manual transmission every day in that stop and go traffic.
Finally; perfect timing re my experience last night at a dealer, test driving a nicely equipped Overland versus a Freedom. Overland had wider, leaning toward more toward fundamental off-road type factory wheels & tires. the Freedom had what I am after today; more street like tires and wheels. Both had utomatic transmissons. The Overland had 3.73 rear axle ratio, because it did not have the Max tow package. The Freedom had the Max tow package so that means it had the 4.10 ratio rear axle. Both of these rear axles had trac-lok (limited slip). How did they drive; street-wise? Honestly, not sure I could tell the difference in rear axle ratio vs acceleration and passive driving between these two JT's on the same exact path I drove both of them. same evening, thus same temp, wind (none perceived), foot and steering actions, etc.
Nearly identical in every way. As I expected but there were two differences I could feel: The wider tread/different tread tires on the Overland did have a slight (very slight) higher turning grip feedback in the steering wheel. A difference that my mind and body adapted too very quickly but it was there; briefly. The second thing I noticed was interesting; Executing turns and even one full circle (not quite lock-to-lock) in the Freedom, presented a slight jump in the trac-loc clutches grabbing just a bit. OR... it could have to do with the Selec-trac transfer case that on this drive, I had left in 4WD Auto, vs the Command-Trac, part time, which was in 2WD. My first experience with Selec-trac, I probably should have done another test in 2WD instead of Auto. That would have made it samo-samo and then for sure I would have been comparing only the trac-loc clutches. End result is they both really performed pretty identical in this micro test. Which means no actual 4WD testing. I am very familier with 4-Hi and 4-Low operation with the Command-trac and trac-loc that I have now in the JK. A setup that I am perfectly happy with on the streets and highway on severe ice or deeper than desired snow on roads and my own acreage. Flipping in and out of 4-Hi when in motion, on the fly, works great. 55 mph or less. Its not meant to be engaged above 55 I think; never tried. And think anyone driving on ice or deep snow at high-high speeds would be crazy anyway. MPG? If your worried about MPG, then you buy something else. Green? Well its not that but its not the worst in the world either. It is very good that this is changing but still some kinks to work out in total EV land. Infrustructure more so than battery technology.
SIDEBAR: Snow rated tires DO provide lower stopping distances on ice. But M&S tires do a decent job, as far as one can go on ice which can always tricky with anything on wheels.
I think I might like Selec-trac. I know if my wife drove a JEEP in the Winter, she would be at-home with Selec-trac since her beloved Forester is an AWD and thus no need to flip anything in or out of 4WD like I do with Command-trac. Mostly here in N Idaho, Coeur d'Alene area, I drive winters in 2WD with occasions to row the lever into 4-Hi. Some winters mean I use 4-Hi more of the time, mentally remembering to take it out on moderate to tight turns. THAT makes Selec-trac a nicer option for street-driving so I think I will go with Selec-trac on the JT I/we purchase this go around.
I hope this long winded info helps. Real world reliability and absolutely a blast to drive, even in my older years of just street & highway driving nowadays, I truly love my JEEPS past and present driveability, super vision out of all the windows, and for me personally, my numerous changes to accessory wiring needs for various HF, VHF and UHF radio systems as a ham radio guy. The Wranglers and Gladiators lend themselves to tinkering. And a final nod to the Gladiator; it rides and steers WAY better than my JK. And a lot quieter at speed too. And here comes the blanket statement re what you want or need out of a roady, off-road specific or mixed use vehicle:
"Your mileage may vary"
Now there has been some recalls but no more than my wifes SUBARU Forester or previous HONDA Pilot. I did have an itty bitty oil leak, apparently from the rear of the intake manifold. Local dealer took care of that under my factory lifetime powertrain warranty (which was a new JK promotional thing). And that is it. Maybe one of my doors needs new hinge pins as it is a bit "draggy" to open. Passenger seat belt doesn't want to fully retract but a little jiggle, and retracts fully. I do change the rear Trac-loc (limited slip) differential fluid more often than recommended as, I think the clutch plates dirty up the fluid visibly, faster than the front Dana. I am utterly impressed with this JEEP. Even don't mind the comparitive sluggo 3.8 liter engine vs the 2010-later Pentastar 3.6 l. Which I have in a RAM Promaster 3500EXT/WINNEBAGO Travato dealing with something about 8,500-ish pounds of weight.
That bugger actually does a decent job up and down 6% grades which amazes my wife and I both. And I might add, a flabberghasting ability to average above 17 mpg on every single long distance trip. Around town only, its a bit of a pig but you can imagine stop sign/light starts pulling that kind of weigth. Point being that engine never complains and is quite spry for this duty.
My wife and I can complain about high frontal or cross winds where the recirculating ball steering can wear on you mentally and physically if practicing keeping in your lane on a longer trip. Brick shape and not rack and pinion combine to make that a bit of work. But the type of steering hardware chosen for the Wrangler and Gladiator makes total sense for its off road basis. Frankly speaking; if your getting a Wrangler or Gladiator for looks but drive it mostly on pavement or maintained dirty/gravel roads, you don't need either one of these vehicles. You might pay even $10,000 less for a FORD Ranger, NISSAN Frontier or if your legs are on the shorter side, a TOYOTA Tacoma could be a comfortable buy. HONDA Ridgeline fits fundamental bed size but its priced about the same as a Gladiator. Road princess or truly want, or need off-road? Gladiator to me is the top of the list. Period. Because of my experience with the JK, I am about to buy a JL Gladiator; hence my joining this group a few months back. But why did I join this group before having a JL?
You have to understand my wife and I take a looong time to buy vehicles. Before and after we met and married. And we keep them a long time. A bit over a year before we took a check into our local RV dealer to buy the last vehicle, the RAM/WINNEBAGO (Travato). Dealer didn't accept our offer by the way. We have a thing where we thank them nicely while still standing, and exit not on a run but not slowly either. Plan B was another same-equipped unit about 500 miles away. Same check in hand; completed the acceptance. Then we sat down and processed paper. The point for this paragraph; we treat them nice even if the dealer folks lean toward, well, slimy. We don't do the back and forth thing. We don't buy ANY extras from the dealer, including extended warranties. You can get those in different channels, even after purchase completed within a short time. We already have worked out what Insurance will cost us. We already know what Title fees and local tax will be, all included in our check which is already funded. Your going to have to break your piggy bank and/or do part (or some might do all?) a loan anyway. You can usually do better with a bank or credit union rates, and pre-approval. How that plays out can make a difference in whether you can waltz into a dealer with a check in hand or not which believe me, really works but just having pre-approval for X amount really saves you sit-down time at a dealer. Just know that if you have credit checks taking place, each one can your current credit score number before you chose one to use. Put the ball in your court. But you have to maintain total nice-person at the dealer. Abstain from smirks, digs, frowns, concerned or unsure-of glancing at your wife or whomever came with you a lot; your losing control.
Trade-ins. Your going to dealer jail if your going to let them work with a trade-in. Don't do that. Sell it yourself. Easier said than done for many. Having people visit you and drive your still-necessary ride may invade your life. Could even be risky. Work it out, don't do a trade-in. This presents a variable that cannot be used in the above. Regardless of your insistence of exactly X dollars for your used vehicle, i is probably going to get you hung up, in a sit down with the dealer person leaving the room a few times, coming back each time with a negotiation. Could be a shocking insult for your baby. That maybe has some fault(s) that you are not telling them? If so, isn't this looking a bit like ALFRED E NUEMAN's Spy vs Spy?
Yes... it can be a pain in the rear axle to self-sell your used vehicle. Sometimes can take weeks or months. What you want for your proud possession might have to be dropped a lot. Well gee; does it hurt less if you sell for what the dealer trade-in offer comes too? They can off-it to an auction or keep it on their lot, longer than you might want to sell it for on your own but in the end, if you trade-it in for instant gratification of that shiny new Gladiator, hours after you walked into the dealer, your already going to sell it to the dealer for less. What? You got what you wanted, if you think you could have sold it to Tom, Dick or Harry on your own? The price of that Gladiator will have been adjusted, or that extended maintenance contract will not get lowered as much as the dealer could, to make sure their profit margin makes for good commissions and end of year bonus checks. You do realize your money adds to the pockets of not just the sales person at the dealer, right? The salesperson that disappears part way through the sit-down in the wheel and deal stage, never to be seen again in that office or cubicle until signatures are completed.
Yes - Been there, done that myself with my first new car purchase, many , many years ago. Seemed fine. Dad did this every three-four years when he bought a new family car and always traded in the old ride. I still miss our cavornous 1959 CHEVROLET Kingswood station wagon to this day that he traded that in for a 1962 Corvair Monza.
So.... However you mull over getting a new or used vehicle, you will find all sorts of things people complain about. Even TOYOTA's which I think are still typically good but frankly mass production to feed the world puts a dent in their shiny armor too. To me, the Gladiator doesn't have more issues than the next ride, except maybe the diesel engine has had a bit more real-life trouble. Some guys (mostly guys I think) will complain the Pentastar isn't the right engine, isn't powerful enough to go fast or "right" for their type of off-road use. Still steers like a truck; gee because a JK, JL and JT are truck framed and recirculating ball steering trucks. And having the max tow package means the rear axle is a higher ratio that will get you less street mpg. And then add some 37 inch tires and higher ground clearance and weight and air flow limiting additions; its no longer as-original truckish smooth, turning radius, steering (cough) precise as it was when you bought the new-new, stock JT. Multi-purpose street and rock vehicle will have some pros and cons but for looks or real off road use, if it does want you want or need, just know it may have a few drawbacks in other situations. Driving back and forth to work 5 days a week might become less enchanting in the tricked out JT from the driving perspective. Stuck in stop and go traffic. Enjoying that JT model you wanted with the manual transmission every day in that stop and go traffic.
Finally; perfect timing re my experience last night at a dealer, test driving a nicely equipped Overland versus a Freedom. Overland had wider, leaning toward more toward fundamental off-road type factory wheels & tires. the Freedom had what I am after today; more street like tires and wheels. Both had utomatic transmissons. The Overland had 3.73 rear axle ratio, because it did not have the Max tow package. The Freedom had the Max tow package so that means it had the 4.10 ratio rear axle. Both of these rear axles had trac-lok (limited slip). How did they drive; street-wise? Honestly, not sure I could tell the difference in rear axle ratio vs acceleration and passive driving between these two JT's on the same exact path I drove both of them. same evening, thus same temp, wind (none perceived), foot and steering actions, etc.
Nearly identical in every way. As I expected but there were two differences I could feel: The wider tread/different tread tires on the Overland did have a slight (very slight) higher turning grip feedback in the steering wheel. A difference that my mind and body adapted too very quickly but it was there; briefly. The second thing I noticed was interesting; Executing turns and even one full circle (not quite lock-to-lock) in the Freedom, presented a slight jump in the trac-loc clutches grabbing just a bit. OR... it could have to do with the Selec-trac transfer case that on this drive, I had left in 4WD Auto, vs the Command-Trac, part time, which was in 2WD. My first experience with Selec-trac, I probably should have done another test in 2WD instead of Auto. That would have made it samo-samo and then for sure I would have been comparing only the trac-loc clutches. End result is they both really performed pretty identical in this micro test. Which means no actual 4WD testing. I am very familier with 4-Hi and 4-Low operation with the Command-trac and trac-loc that I have now in the JK. A setup that I am perfectly happy with on the streets and highway on severe ice or deeper than desired snow on roads and my own acreage. Flipping in and out of 4-Hi when in motion, on the fly, works great. 55 mph or less. Its not meant to be engaged above 55 I think; never tried. And think anyone driving on ice or deep snow at high-high speeds would be crazy anyway. MPG? If your worried about MPG, then you buy something else. Green? Well its not that but its not the worst in the world either. It is very good that this is changing but still some kinks to work out in total EV land. Infrustructure more so than battery technology.
SIDEBAR: Snow rated tires DO provide lower stopping distances on ice. But M&S tires do a decent job, as far as one can go on ice which can always tricky with anything on wheels.
I think I might like Selec-trac. I know if my wife drove a JEEP in the Winter, she would be at-home with Selec-trac since her beloved Forester is an AWD and thus no need to flip anything in or out of 4WD like I do with Command-trac. Mostly here in N Idaho, Coeur d'Alene area, I drive winters in 2WD with occasions to row the lever into 4-Hi. Some winters mean I use 4-Hi more of the time, mentally remembering to take it out on moderate to tight turns. THAT makes Selec-trac a nicer option for street-driving so I think I will go with Selec-trac on the JT I/we purchase this go around.
I hope this long winded info helps. Real world reliability and absolutely a blast to drive, even in my older years of just street & highway driving nowadays, I truly love my JEEPS past and present driveability, super vision out of all the windows, and for me personally, my numerous changes to accessory wiring needs for various HF, VHF and UHF radio systems as a ham radio guy. The Wranglers and Gladiators lend themselves to tinkering. And a final nod to the Gladiator; it rides and steers WAY better than my JK. And a lot quieter at speed too. And here comes the blanket statement re what you want or need out of a roady, off-road specific or mixed use vehicle:
"Your mileage may vary"
Gvsukids
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Great thread for a first post, especially after being a member since 2021.
ShadowsPapa
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Chaos Theory
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I will never private-sale a $30k+ value vehicle anymore, living in Washington. First is the additional sales tax you pay by not applying trade in value when you purchase the replacement. Sales tax is near 10% here. You would need to recoup $3-4k in additional sale price over trade in, and that's not as easy as you read on forums. I always get great trade offers, so why bother with the hassle?
The second is that I'm tired of getting calls having to explain every bump or knock that pops up over the next year and the implications that you hid it from them. Just not worth it. Yes, I make an "as is" document which they sign, but whether it's a motorcycle, RV or car, all it takes is one nutjob who wants some of their money back to kill any desire to dick with that again.
The second is that I'm tired of getting calls having to explain every bump or knock that pops up over the next year and the implications that you hid it from them. Just not worth it. Yes, I make an "as is" document which they sign, but whether it's a motorcycle, RV or car, all it takes is one nutjob who wants some of their money back to kill any desire to dick with that again.
ShadowsPapa
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Disagree - especially in some states.
So you think you can get more - perhaps so, but the extra you get is often eaten up by the extra tax on the new vehicle!
Plus selling yourself can be a pain in the ass and take a lot of your time. You deal with low-ballers, scammers, people wanting to take it for a day and have others look at it (opening you up to some big liability).
I've been both routes, as has my son - you have to deal with so many jerks and the lowest of society in many cases when trying to sell it yourself.
So you do what I did and spend days working to list and market it, then spend hours messing with people, taking calls, answering emails and you do get more - and do the math. You have just gained about 1 grand for your troubles because now you pay tax on the full price of your new vehicle.
Not all dealers do that back and forth bit.
When we traded my wife's 2021 Grand Cherokee for her 23 Wrangler, the sales guy went to the manager, the manager came out and made an offer - I told him my price and said "we don't HAVE to have that Wrangler - she's happy enough with the GC. If my price can't be met, I'll thank you for the time and head back home".
The response - ok, we'll do it.
Similar for when I traded my 2020 JT for my 2022 JT - I spent a lot of time checking out KBB, Carvana, Driveway and a couple of others. I checked all sorts of listings. I was getting low-balls from the online auto buyers. Carvana and KBB were particularly insulting. I laughed.
I went to the dealer and told him my goal. I said I have a goal for the DIFFERENCE. I don't care what the new one costs and I don't care what you offer for my trade - you must meet the price difference - what it will cost me to trade. Nothing else matters. If you discount the new one but then low-ball me on the trade, it won't work.
He actually discounted the new JT AND beat all other offers I had on my 2020 except for one - and that one wanted my truck THEN, right then, that week, leaving me truckless. The dealer said this is my offer no matter how long it takes to get a new truck. I'll guarantee this price, even if it takes 3 months - you keep your trade until the new one arrives. He didn't care if I used it as long as I could keep the miles down to the typical average miles per month. No problem.
I sold my 2011 Chevy Silverado for more than I got offered in trade, but in the end, I had to pay full tax on the new vehicle, wiping out most of the increase I got for selling it myself. In short, I did a lot of work for nothing and could have made more money spending my time elsewhere instead of the hassle of asses wanting me to take the truck 60 minutes away so they could look at it. Are you kidding me? Forget it.
Don't get me wrong - some dealers play that back and forth game and Dewey in Ankeny is among them - We bought our last 4 Jeeps from different dealers.
Don't want a hassle on trade? Then contact SPENCER, Motor Inn, Spirit Lake, Iowa.
The man will PROVE his offer showing real sales figures, real numbers. No games, no messing around.
He's got a spot on this forum and he doesn't mess around and won't low-ball you on trade.
ShadowsPapa
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EXACTLY why I hate selling vehicle here.
I sold a really nice 2004 WJ 3 years ago and the pain in the butts that came by, multiple visits, I want my son to drive it but he's not available until next week can you hold it until then, oh, I want my mechanic to look at it, he's an hour away, can I take it home and have him look at it tomorrow, or, I can't get away right now, can you bring your truck over to Pella so I can look it over? (Pella is an hour away!).
The bull crap you have to put up with. UGH!
Tire kickers, low-ballers, scammers (I'll have a friend come look at it for me, he'll bring a check)
You echo why I hate selling stuff like that.
Sold a camper years ago - oh, the complaints...... or someone lets their kid drive the car and he fries the transmission now you've got some moron blaming you.
Sorry, so what if I could get 3 grand more. It's just not worth it - and the tax thing, yeah, been down that road.
Jeeperjamie
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Jeeps are just as reliable as anything else made. They all have problems and you only here about them on the good old internet and especially in forums like this. I've owned numerous Jeeps some good, some bad, none that made me not buy another one. There is about a 92% chance you will get a good one based on my experience. Hope that helps.
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ShadowsPapa
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- First Name
- Bill
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2019
- Threads
- 247
- Messages
- 40,440
- Reaction score
- 53,853
- Location
- Runnells, Iowa
- Vehicle(s)
- '25 JTMX, '23 JLU 4xe, '82 SX4, '73 Javelin
- Occupation
- Retired auto mechanic, frmr gov't ntwrk security admin
- Vehicle Showcase
- 3
LOL - I did laugh when I saw that - ok, so it wasn't a fuel system problem? HAHA.Tesla: "Electrical system"
CJ99x
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- James
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2022
- Threads
- 3
- Messages
- 56
- Reaction score
- 78
- Location
- West Virginia
- Vehicle(s)
- 2023 JT Mojave
- Occupation
- Technology Field
438 K on my XJ (looking for an exhaust manifold, mine is beyond welding) and I had around 200 on my TJ before getting the JK which my nephew is driving everyday with over 200K so I think I will cross whatever bridge with confidence. Jeeps aren't for everyone but they will serve everybody.
ShadowsPapa
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Bill
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2019
- Threads
- 247
- Messages
- 40,440
- Reaction score
- 53,853
- Location
- Runnells, Iowa
- Vehicle(s)
- '25 JTMX, '23 JLU 4xe, '82 SX4, '73 Javelin
- Occupation
- Retired auto mechanic, frmr gov't ntwrk security admin
- Vehicle Showcase
- 3
What's the year of your XJ - and the engine?
Possibly can help, depending on year and engine.
DBravo
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Dean
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2020
- Threads
- 2
- Messages
- 461
- Reaction score
- 643
- Location
- Boston, MA
- Vehicle(s)
- 2020 Jeep Gladiator Overland, 2021 Jeep JL Sahara
2020 Gladiator Overland purchased new. Still bone stock except for minor add-ons (Shorty antenna, Best top Sunrider, Mesh Sunshade). 61k miles no issues. My 2 cents: don't install anything (lift kit, oversize anything or items that affect ride geometry or put undue strain on stock parts) unless you -really- know what you are doing or use a quality installer with a good reputation. Keep up with all routine maintenance.
When i leave for a 1200 mile roundtrip, I'm still very confident that nothing major will happen on the mechanical side.
HopSlammer
Well-Known Member
This is the last Jeep I’ll ever own.
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