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Salmanilla

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Some people just can never be happy...

I installed the system and it works great... Love it... Fantastic...but...Is there any way to NOT have the windows close when you lock the doors? If I am leaving the dog in the car while at a pit stop/for fuel.. I would like to leave the windows open a bit so that she can get some fresh air.

Is this possible? I tried just locking the doors using the touch button on the doors and they still closed (without using the remote fob).

Any suggestions?
Jeep Gladiator JT 3Wliners window control module install. Luna_Meme
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Kevin_D

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Some people just can never be happy...

I installed the system and it works great... Love it... Fantastic...but...Is there any way to NOT have the windows close when you lock the doors? If I am leaving the dog in the car while at a pit stop/for fuel.. I would like to leave the windows open a bit so that she can get some fresh air.

Is this possible? I tried just locking the doors using the touch button on the doors and they still closed (without using the remote fob).

Any suggestions?
Luna_Meme.jpg
Iā€™ve noticed this, too. I want to leave the windows down a bit, but lock the doors (single press,) and when I return, the windows are up.
Perhaps lock the door manually?

Kevin
 

mike921921

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Iā€™ve noticed this, too. I want to leave the windows down a bit, but lock the doors (single press,) and when I return, the windows are up.
Perhaps lock the door manually?

Kevin
But, if you lock the doors manually the security system doesn't engage, correct?
 

Kevin_D

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But, if you lock the doors manually the security system doesn't engage, correct?
I donā€™t think soā€¦
Iā€™ll have to look in the manual, as the Jeepā€™s not here.

Update: verified with the manual. Using the interior manual lock lever or the outside key lock will not arm OR disarm the security system.
Now, whether itā€™ll trigger the windows will take some experimentation.

Kevin
 
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Some people just can never be happy...

I installed the system and it works great... Love it... Fantastic...but...Is there any way to NOT have the windows close when you lock the doors? If I am leaving the dog in the car while at a pit stop/for fuel.. I would like to leave the windows open a bit so that she can get some fresh air.

Is this possible? I tried just locking the doors using the touch button on the doors and they still closed (without using the remote fob).

Any suggestions?
Iā€™ve noticed this, too. I want to leave the windows down a bit, but lock the doors (single press,) and when I return, the windows are up.
Perhaps lock the door manually?

Kevin
If it takes 2 taps of the lock to put windows up, you should be able to 1 tap to just lock... you shouldnā€™t be walking away from the vehicle with your dog inside without rolling up all the windows first and then lowering your dogs window, or any other windows to ensure ventilation. Then 1 tap to lock.
 

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I've noticed that I only have to press lock once to get the windows to roll up also and thought that the command for the roll up was a double tap. Still loving it!
I love running thru the sequence as I approach. Double tap remote start. Unlock, lock, unlock to get the windows to ghost down.... Then double unlock to fully unlock..
 

Kevin_D

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If it takes 2 taps of the lock to put windows up, you should be able to 1 tap to just lock...
I know that's how it's supposed to work.
But if I leave the windows down, and lock the doors with a single tap on the remote or lock with the door switch (to set the alarm,) the windows are up when I return. It's happened several times.

Kevin
 

alextremo

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I know that's how it's supposed to work.
But if I leave the windows down, and lock the doors with a single tap on the remote or lock with the door switch (to set the alarm,) the windows are up when I return. It's happened several times.

Kevin
Same here.
 

Inigo Montoya

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Just a heads-up... I have the aux switch group and tried using the battery wire that is included at the passenger foot board and the unit generally worked until I used the remote to simultaneously close 4 windows ... this repeatably blew the 10a fuse for this circuit ... for those not wanting to go through the firewall, here is an alternative that turns the lighter from acc to battery and then taps that (I just placed my order so I haven't installed it yet

https://www.cooltechllc.com/wrangler-parts-accessories/111-jl-powerport-kit.html

and then use
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087T2W99F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Z.BZFb38KKVH1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
To tap into the lighter

I found this when looking at what people have done to power their cb radios ... and this changes the lighter to always on which I have been wanting anyway

Jeep Gladiator JT 3Wliners window control module install. Luna_Meme
Although the 12V cigarette lighter has a 20 Amp fuse in the Jeep fuse box, the wiring harness from Amazon only has an inline 10 Amp fuse. So this seems to be the same as tying into the 12V input on the Aux switches (also rated for 10 Amps).

So as it stands, this solution would not work either unless you replace the 10 Amp fuse with a higher rated fuse. This got me thinking...

The 3Wliners wire running to the battery isn't labeled but appears to be 18 AWG stranded wire. I determined this by measuring the diameter of an individual wire using calipers then counting the strands to calculate the circular mil area (0.008^2 * 27 = 0.001728). This means this wire can only carry ~ 6 Amps of continuous current, which is odd because they have a 25 Amp inline fuse on this line. So the reason the 10 Amp Aux fuses were being blown is likely the momentary inrush current that occurs when the motor is started or when it encounters a load (window fully closed).

Something else to add is the Amazon wire harness also uses 18 AWG wire, although it visually looks thicker, it's just thicker insulation. The wire is clearly marked.

The 3Wliners instructions say to connect the power to the main battery, hence the 25 Amp fuse. If we connect this instead to the 12V cigarette lighter, the voltage will go from the battery, through a 20 Amp fuse (in the fuse box), through a 10 Amp fuse (in the Amazon wire harness), then through a 25 Amp fuse (3Wliners inline fuse), and ultimately to the window motors.

If you decide to connect this way, it's probably safe to replace the 10 Amp fuse with a 20 Amp fuse, even though the Amazon wiring harness instructions explicitly say do not replace the fuse with a larger value. Just don't run anything else off this Amazon wire harness connection. Also be aware an issue could arise if you have something plugged into the cigarette lighter that pulls additional current. In that case, (depending on what's connected) the 20 Amp fuse in the fuse box could blow when you go to raise/lower your windows.

The bottom line is the wire they're using can't even support 10 Amps continuous current (much less 25 Amps), so the fuses are intended simply to guard against transient currents.

If anyone sees something that looks off, please let me know.

Of course, all this could be avoided if you just run the 3Wliners power wire directly to the battery as instructed. šŸ¤·ā€ā™‚ļø

*** As with anything: if you do decide to go with a higher fuse rating, do so at your own risk. ***
 

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Although the 12V cigarette lighter has a 20 Amp fuse in the Jeep fuse box, the wiring harness from Amazon only has an inline 10 Amp fuse. So this seems to be the same as tying into the 12V input on the Aux switches (also rated for 10 Amps).

So as it stands, this solution would not work either unless you replace the 10 Amp fuse with a higher rated fuse. This got me thinking...

The 3Wliners wire running to the battery isn't labeled but appears to be 18 AWG stranded wire. I determined this by measuring the diameter of an individual wire using calipers then counting the strands to calculate the circular mil area (0.008^2 * 27 = 0.001728). This means this wire can only carry ~ 6 Amps of continuous current, which is odd because they have a 25 Amp inline fuse on this line. So the reason the 10 Amp Aux fuses were being blown is likely the momentary inrush current that occurs when the motor is started or when it encounters a load (window fully closed).

Something else to add is the Amazon wire harness also uses 18 AWG wire, although it visually looks thicker, it's just thicker insulation. The wire is clearly marked.

The 3Wliners instructions say to connect the power to the main battery, hence the 25 Amp fuse. If we connect this instead to the 12V cigarette lighter, the voltage will go from the battery, through a 20 Amp fuse (in the fuse box), through a 10 Amp fuse (in the Amazon wire harness), then through a 25 Amp fuse (3Wliners inline fuse), and ultimately to the window motors.

If you decide to connect this way, it's probably safe to replace the 10 Amp fuse with a 20 Amp fuse, even though the Amazon wiring harness instructions explicitly say do not replace the fuse with a larger value. Just don't run anything else off this Amazon wire harness connection. Also be aware an issue could arise if you have something plugged into the cigarette lighter that pulls additional current. In that case, (depending on what's connected) the 20 Amp fuse in the fuse box could blow when you go to raise/lower your windows.

The bottom line is the wire they're using can't even support 10 Amps continuous current (much less 25 Amps), so the fuses are intended simply to guard against transient currents.

If anyone sees something that looks off, please let me know.

Of course, all this could be avoided if you just run the 3Wliners power wire directly to the battery as instructed. šŸ¤·ā€ā™‚ļø

*** As with anything: if you do decide to go with a higher fuse rating, do so at your own risk. ***
A few quick points to expand on your observations
1)3Wliners and the Amazon harness are the same gauge (but the 3wliner is significantly longer if you run it to the battery so will have higher resistance and a lower current rating) ... thus the amazon harness should be the lower resistance option
2) I completely agree that the risk is a high draw from the lighter at the same time as the windows are actuated ... for a single data point, I have yet to blow mine since using this install with a dual high rate phone charger continually connected with 2 phones often being there
3) I completely agree with using caution when adjusting fuse ratings. One other point to consider is that a well designed automotive circuit should have its fuse as near to the battery as possible
 

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Salmanilla

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I know that's how it's supposed to work.
But if I leave the windows down, and lock the doors with a single tap on the remote or lock with the door switch (to set the alarm,) the windows are up when I return. It's happened several times.

Kevin
Same here. One tap on Fob to lock the Jeep also closes the windows. Same thing happens if I lock the door by pressing the "lock" button on below the exterior door handle. One tap and it closes all the windows.

Any Suggestions?
 

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Same here. One tap on Fob to lock the Jeep also closes the windows. Same thing happens if I lock the door by pressing the "lock" button on below the exterior door handle. One tap and it closes all the windows.

Any Suggestions?
Just had the same thing happen. Was at the beach, shut the doors with the windows open. I had stashed the key in a faraday pouch so I could hide them in the car under the dash. Hit the door lock once to lock the tailgate.
Came back from the beach, all windows were up. Luckily I had the freedom panels off or I would have been locked out.
 

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Could always put a switch on the door lock wire thats taped and turn it on and off depending on the situation. That's what I'm planning on doing if I ever get around to it.
 

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Unless Iā€™m missing something the easiest thing is just to not tap into the door harness wiring if you donā€™t want that functionality. The auto up/down through the window switches will work with out it. Tapping the door harness just gives you the ability to roll up/down windows with the fob.
 

Kevin_D

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Unless Iā€™m missing something the easiest thing is just to not tap into the door harness wiring if you donā€™t want that functionality. The auto up/down through the window switches will work with out it. Tapping the door harness just gives you the ability to roll up/down windows with the fob.
Which is at least 50% of why I bought the module in the first place.
It'd be nice if the seller either fixed the problem, maybe with an update, or at least changed the operation description on his sales page.

Edit: Looks like he's already changed the description:
"Window Closer Control Module Function:

1. Lock the car and raise the window: After the car is powered off, press the remote control to lock the car and automatically raise the four windows."

It then states:
"2. Remote control window descending: After the car is powered off and locked, press unlock-lock-unlock, the four windows will descend at the same time, which is convenient for heat dissipation.

3. window ascending: After dissipating heat, press the lock button twice to raise the window again."

Now, I don't remember if this was the description all along, but it looks like it'll only take a double-tap on the lock button after you've lowered the windows with the remote.
Looks like I need to experiment a bit tomorrow.

Kevin
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