Kill switch without the kill.

[James H]

Electronics has never been my strong suit, but I know several of you on here are really knowledgeable.

I wanted to wire in a kill switch, so I searched here first for some advice. Started off purchasing this switch:
Joinfworld 12V 20 Amp Heavy Duty Latching Push Button Switch Waterproof ON Off Switch 16MM Pushbutton Switch 12 Volt Blue Led with Pre-Wired for Marine Boat Truck Car Motorcycle: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Then, tapped into the red wire leading to the start/stop button and routed it through this hidden switch.

The vehicle still starts with the switch in either position, so I think it must be connected incorrectly at the switch. Here is the diagram of the switch:

I used the left and right connections in the diagram, and taped off the other 2. Appreciate any help from y'all on this.

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[Terminus33]

So only mostly killed?

I don't dig into many deep wiring things. Only stuff like lights and similar.

 

[Vtur]

Electronics has never been my strong suit, but I know several of you on here are really knowledgeable.

I wanted to wire in a kill switch, so I searched here first for some advice. Started off purchasing this switch:
Joinfworld 12V 20 Amp Heavy Duty Latching Push Button Switch Waterproof ON Off Switch 16MM Pushbutton Switch 12 Volt Blue Led with Pre-Wired for Marine Boat Truck Car Motorcycle: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Then, tapped into the red wire leading to the start/stop button and routed it through this hidden switch.

The vehicle still starts with the switch in either position, so I think it must be connected incorrectly at the switch. Here is the diagram of the switch:

I used the left and right connections in the diagram, and taped off the other 2. Appreciate any help from y'all on this.

Connect the end from the harness to the left post and bottom or top post toward the starter button.

What you have is a DPST switch. It can be setup as On-Off or On-On.

Edit: depending wether top or bottom post used that will determine push to open or release to open the circuit.

 

[Vtur]

I'm using a capacitive touch switch in mine and hidden behind plastic panel.

 

[XraytecH]

Try this...

 

[Alpine Warthog]

Try this...

Will remote start still work with this method?

 

[XraytecH]

Will remote start still work with this method?

Remote Start will work.

 

[XraytecH]

I'm using a capacitive touch switch in mine and hidden behind plastic panel.

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How thick is the plastic panel?

 

[Vtur]

?

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How thick is the plastic panel?

I prefer not to post picture of where my switch are located in a public forum. But switch below is what i used. Just an interior trim panel, about less than 1/8" thick.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09FHCWV3H?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

[XraytecH]

I prefer not to post picture of where my switch are located in a public forum. But switch below is what i used. Just an interior trim panel, about less than 1/8" thick.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09FHCWV3H?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

What adhesive did you use to mount the switch?

 

[Vtur]

What adhesive did you use to mount the switch?

Double-sided tape

 

[Vtur]

What adhesive did you use to mount the switch?

I also used these project box for protection.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07285JL9H?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

[dayusmc]

Just a thought on the Kill switch. Just putting it out there incase you didn't realize it.
From the things I have seen, this will not stop a professional car theif familiar with Chrysler products. A lit of times they grab the start wire in a different spot.
If I was putting in a kill switch I would grab those ignition switch wires closer to the module. That way if they they grab the switch wires a little downstream from the switch you are still protected. I would also rewrap anywhere you went into the harness with Tesa tap (basically the factory tape) so no one can tell you were in there.
An alternative is a CAN Bus immobilizer like a AMPIRE WS-4000 or a Ghost II (same product, I believe AMPIRE makes the Ghost)
https://www.ampire.de/WFS400-PRO.htm?shop=ampire_en&SessionId=&a=article&ProdNr=WFS400-PRO&p=59260
This is a simple 4 wire hook up in a Jeep. I put one in my friends Gladiator. It will work with the factory Remote Start, but not an aftermarket Remote Start
If you already have a Tazer mini you can do the same as the above buy making a relocation harness for it. That is what I did for both my Gladiator and also my wife's JLU. Both the factory remote start and aftermarket remote start will work with this method. I had a thread on this, but I should make a dedicated thread on it. Basically you just need to buy a SGW extension harness to cut up to do this. And if you don't want to tap into any can bus wires, you just need to buy one other harness to cut up for the CAN bus connectors.
If you have a Tazer Already, this is between $30 and $80 and easy to do.
Advantages over a kill switch is you can hide the Tazer anywhere you want...
JUst food for thought.

 

[Vtur]

Just a thought on the Kill switch. Just putting it out there incase you didn't realize it.
From the things I have seen, this will not stop a professional car theif familiar with Chrysler products. A lit of times they grab the start wire in a different spot.
If I was putting in a kill switch I would grab those ignition switch wires closer to the module. That way if they they grab the switch wires a little downstream from the switch you are still protected. I would also rewrap anywhere you went into the harness with Tesa tap (basically the factory tape) so no one can tell you were in there.
An alternative is a CAN Bus immobilizer like a AMPIRE WS-4000 or a Ghost II (same product, I believe AMPIRE makes the Ghost)
https://www.ampire.de/WFS400-PRO.htm?shop=ampire_en&SessionId=&a=article&ProdNr=WFS400-PRO&p=59260
This is a simple 4 wire hook up in a Jeep. I put one in my friends Gladiator. It will work with the factory Remote Start, but not an aftermarket Remote Start
If you already have a Tazer mini you can do the same as the above buy making a relocation harness for it. That is what I did for both my Gladiator and also my wife's JLU. Both the factory remote start and aftermarket remote start will work with this method. I had a thread on this, but I should make a dedicated thread on it. Basically you just need to buy a SGW extension harness to cut up to do this. And if you don't want to tap into any can bus wires, you just need to buy one other harness to cut up for the CAN bus connectors.
If you have a Tazer Already, this is between $30 and $80 and easy to do.
Advantages over a kill switch is you can hide the Tazer anywhere you want...
JUst food for thought.

So this unit can be bypass by disconnect and reconnecting the factory SGW connector right?

 

[dayusmc]

So this unit can be bypass by disconnect and reconnecting the factory SGW connector right?

No.
I just did a dedicated thread on it.
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...an-bus-immobilizers-information-thread.77376/

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