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Leveling Kit Install Anxiety

Vtur

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Unless you already have all the needed tools, let the shop do it for that reasonable cost.
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MudderNuker

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It is a simple job. You can go it with two jacks and two jackstands. One side at a time. Jack it, put a jackstand, wheel off (leave the other on), undo the sway bar link (it is hex keyed in the shaft), undo the lower shock bolt, break line brackets, diff harness and track bar bolt (I recommend an adjustable track bar). Push down on the axle until the spring pops out. The reverse the process after the leveling kit is installed. Really no need to get it aligned. You can center the axle only if you have an adjustable track bar. YouTube has plenty of how tos. Good luck. Save the money for tools.
 

Fabtech Motorsports

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I agree with this right here. Not a bad price for parts and labor.
I do like the DIY aspect though...


I don't think that is a bad price for parts & labor actually. I did a ton of wrenching on my cars over the years, but now that I'm old, its worth it to me to have everything done by my trusted mechanic. Plus, if there's any question or issues on the install, I can just bring it back for them to fix. Hell, I have the same trusted mechanic change my oil anymore. I just tell him which oil & filter and it's done for about $15 more than I could do it myself.

Of course, the key is a trusted mechanic.
 

Lukasz

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The big question that nobody has asked yet is: are you going to wheel it.
If you are going to wheel it, then do the work yourself and use that as an opportunity to learn about your vehicle. It will save you a lot more anxiety down the road when you go off the pavement.

If you weren't planning to wheel it, then sure, pay the shop. $700 is very reasonable.
 

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Stan H

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I am on the fence about installing the Tera Flex 1.5 inch leveling kit and Mopar extended LCAs vs having them professionally installed. I've installed a spacer kit on a Frontier Pro4X. I've replaced struts, rear ends, carbs, manifolds, rebuilt a salvaged Sportster, etc. While not a skilled mechanic, I'm not a novice either, but I am struggling to convince myself to DIY vs paying $699 (parts and labor) for a local shop install.

In part, my baseline anxiety is a result of a TBI 4 years ago, but I think unfamiliarity with Jeep might be sending me over the edge.

How difficult the installation for the average guy with a little wrenching experience? Any gotchas to look out for? Is $700 a bad deal for parts and labor?
The trick on the front is to use 2 Jacks on the front end jack it high enough that heavy jackstands can be placed under the frame behind the wheels then let the suspension down with the 2 jacks loosen the bolts and take the nuts off if you let all the way down the bolt won't slide out then jack it back up a smidgen at a time till bolt pulls right out. .. thats how I did it with my uncles help on the jacks .
 

Lochsa

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I just completed a 2 inch AEV spacer lift with geometry correction brackets, along with a Steer Smart sector shaft brace, and airlift 1000 bags. Also at the same time, I did Rock Hard front lower control arm skids (axle side) and rear lower control arm skids both frame and axle side. It is not technically difficult, but definitely physically demanding, especially if you are mid 60s. It was a solo job. Luckily for me, I am retired, have extra vehicles and can take my time. I also have lots of tools and have done several other lifts in my lifetime. The two tools I did buy prior to the install, was a brushless Ryobi impact. It was $179 at home depot. It offers more ugh ugh than my older model. I was able to get all nuts and bolt loosened with no problem. The other tool I bought was a 3/4 inch torque wrench at Harbor Freight for $89. The 3/4 inch torque wrench is necessary as lower control arm bolts have to be torqued to 190 ft/lbs.

On the rear, straight forward, just take off the brake calipers (4 18 mm bolts) so you get plenty of droop. You will need tall jack stands. The hardest part was putting the spacers in on top of the spring, making sure the nipples are lined up into the tower and the spring is clocked correctly. The bolts in the rear allowed plenty of room to swing my torque wrench with the axle on jack stands, with good body mechanics.

In the front, straight forward as well, easier to do the springs because they are right there. I did use a small jack on one side to jack at the axle to get clearance on the other. I had jacks stand on the frame and a floor jack on the pumpkin. I did the drop brackets with the tires on after the spacers were installed. I torqued bolts with the axle on jack stands and the full weight of the vehicle. The lower control arm bolts are a little tricker as they are harder to get 190 ft/lbs on. A couple of the bolts I finished torquing with a small jack on the end of the torque wrench.

One technique that helped me doing this solo was to use a jack stand to hold a wrench in place, while torquing on the other side of the fastener. At 190 ft/lbs it would be tough to hold a wrench on one side and use the torque wrench on the other.

I like to do this stuff myself as I really get to know the vehicle, plus I know it was done right. Also, I think my biceps are about one inch larger now.

[Banned Site] has some great lift install videos that if you review should help you decide whether or not you want to go at it.
 

MudderNuker

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I just completed a 2 inch AEV spacer lift with geometry correction brackets, along with a Steer Smart sector shaft brace, and airlift 1000 bags. Also at the same time, I did Rock Hard front lower control arm skids (axle side) and rear lower control arm skids both frame and axle side. It is not technically difficult, but definitely physically demanding, especially if you are mid 60s. It was a solo job. Luckily for me, I am retired, have extra vehicles and can take my time. I also have lots of tools and have done several other lifts in my lifetime. The two tools I did buy prior to the install, was a brushless Ryobi impact. It was $179 at home depot. It offers more ugh ugh than my older model. I was able to get all nuts and bolt loosened with no problem. The other tool I bought was a 3/4 inch torque wrench at Harbor Freight for $89. The 3/4 inch torque wrench is necessary as lower control arm bolts have to be torqued to 190 ft/lbs.

On the rear, straight forward, just take off the brake calipers (4 18 mm bolts) so you get plenty of droop. You will need tall jack stands. The hardest part was putting the spacers in on top of the spring, making sure the nipples are lined up into the tower and the spring is clocked correctly. The bolts in the rear allowed plenty of room to swing my torque wrench with the axle on jack stands, with good body mechanics.

In the front, straight forward as well, easier to do the springs because they are right there. I did use a small jack on one side to jack at the axle to get clearance on the other. I had jacks stand on the frame and a floor jack on the pumpkin. I did the drop brackets with the tires on after the spacers were installed. I torqued bolts with the axle on jack stands and the full weight of the vehicle. The lower control arm bolts are a little tricker as they are harder to get 190 ft/lbs on. A couple of the bolts I finished torquing with a small jack on the end of the torque wrench.

One technique that helped me doing this solo was to use a jack stand to hold a wrench in place, while torquing on the other side of the fastener. At 190 ft/lbs it would be tough to hold a wrench on one side and use the torque wrench on the other.

I like to do this stuff myself as I really get to know the vehicle, plus I know it was done right. Also, I think my biceps are about one inch larger now.

[Banned Site] has some great lift install videos that if you review should help you decide whether or not you want to go at it.
I did a TF 1.5" leveling stacked with another .5" spacer for 2", adjustable track bar, longer sway bar links and shock extensions. I re-centered the axle using a big rachet strap. I got it to within a 16th of an inch from side to side. In the rear I installed 3/4 inch spacers and airlift 100 bags. It was a solo job for me too. I have tools and a shop to work in but it would have been easier to do with the car lift I want to buy. I ended using the money for other projects and now the lift will have to wait until next year (wife orders). I still haven't gotten to install the geo brackets. I tried with a DeWalt 1/2 inch high torque impact wrench but the 24mm nut wouldn't budge. At the time I didn't have a 24mm wrench, I do now but I haven't had the chance to try again. The exhaust loop won't allow me to use a breaker bar.
 

Lochsa

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I did a TF 1.5" leveling stacked with another .5" spacer for 2", adjustable track bar, longer sway bar links and shock extensions. I re-centered the axle using a big rachet strap. I got it to within a 16th of an inch from side to side. In the rear I installed 3/4 inch spacers and airlift 100 bags. It was a solo job for me too. I have tools and a shop to work in but it would have been easier to do with the car lift I want to buy. I ended using the money for other projects and now the lift will have to wait until next year (wife orders). I still haven't gotten to install the geo brackets. I tried with a DeWalt 1/2 inch high torque impact wrench but the 24mm nut wouldn't budge. At the time I didn't have a 24mm wrench, I do now but I haven't had the chance to try again. The exhaust loop won't allow me to use a breaker bar.
Yes, a lift would be nice, just cant justify the expense. I didn't have to go to the gym while doing the install. I also installed a Yet trackbar on the front. Increased the length 1/2 inch from stock. Looks centered, but need to find a good place to measure from. I have fender extensions (spatz) so difficult to line up with a 4 foot level. Easy way to get the track bolt back in on the axle side is to turn the steering wheel back and forth with wheels on the ground. On the left frame side lower control arm bolt, I used an open box wrench on the exhaust side, held by a jack stand approximately level and loosened on the bolt head side. That Ryobi impact was the best $179 I have spent in a while.
 

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I am on the fence about installing the Tera Flex 1.5 inch leveling kit and Mopar extended LCAs vs having them professionally installed. I've installed a spacer kit on a Frontier Pro4X. I've replaced struts, rear ends, carbs, manifolds, rebuilt a salvaged Sportster, etc. While not a skilled mechanic, I'm not a novice either, but I am struggling to convince myself to DIY vs paying $699 (parts and labor) for a local shop install.

In part, my baseline anxiety is a result of a TBI 4 years ago, but I think unfamiliarity with Jeep might be sending me over the edge.

How difficult the installation for the average guy with a little wrenching experience? Any gotchas to look out for? Is $700 a bad deal for parts and labor?

I did mine in about 2 hours, it was a pretty straight forward job. Just know AHEAD OF TIME, what you need to do it... tools etc.. especially if you have just one vehicle. Once you drop the whole axle, you kinda cant drive it. Lol
 

wchevron

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I had no auto wrenching experience when I bought my Gladiator. It really isn't that hard to do. You can get it done in a few hours. Takes a bit longer than you would think because I found I had to keep re-watching the youtube video as I progressed. That probably took more time than the actual install.
 
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Mad Jasper

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Thanks all for the advise and support. There is a lot of helpful information in this thread and I really appreciate it.

I am still on the fence, but I did order the spacers and extended LCAs. My wife is going out of town next week, but leaving her car so that would be a perfect time to install the spacers. I have all of the tools needed to get the job done, including two powerful impact wrenches. My torque wrench is busted so I'd have to pick up another one.

If I choose to have it installed, the shop said they would just charge labor for install and alignment. So either way I am covered.
 
 







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