Leveling kits and body lift kits

[Jeeperjamie]

The stabilizer was the TSB 'fix' for death wobble.

https://www.motor1.com/news/364948/jeep-wrangler-death-wobble-fix/

I'm not even reading that article, a Stabilizer has never been a cause of Death Wobble or a fix.

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[j.o.y.ride]

I'm not even reading that article, a Stabilizer has never been a cause of Death Wobble or a fix.

Not saying the stabilizer was the cause of the wobble as in it induced it. It was indeed the solution Jeep came up with whether you want to believe it or not.

https://www.freep.com/story/money/cars/chrysler/2019/08/10/jeep-death-wobble-fix/1969368001/

They're simply trying to dampen the wobble enough to kill it. That's the point.

Which also means the root cause is still there. My point is merely that since the cause is still there and being controlled by the stabilizer I would not go messing with geometry. People do and are fine, but I just wouldn't. That is all.

 

[Diaster]

FYI a 1.5 to 2” lift will shift the front front axle back slightly and rear axle forward slightly, adjustable control arms will bring that back, but it is so small as not to be an issue. it will change the driveshaft to axle angle but again, within tolerances. The Loft will also shift the front axle to the left slightly, approx 1/4 inch, if that bothers you there is an adjustable bar for that as well. In any case you may have to realign your steering wheel a tad. Logic will show that moving an axle forward should not cause a “death wobble” neither should sideways. I believe the biggest contributor to death wobble is worn components due to oversized tires, ball joints etc. not to be confused with the “wandering about” common with straight axles. That sensation is increased with “floatation tires.” The steering stabilizer is important as a dampener when hitting rocks curbs etc. it reduces some of the “shock” of that impact To protect your steering unit And as a byproduct may “tighten up” your steering control/feel somewhat. Only a fool would remove that stabilizer unless they are 100% mallcrawler and know they will never hit a curb over 3 mph. ShOrt version, slap a teraflex or similar 1.5 level kit on, have the alignment checked and don’t sweat it. Oh and just because you under there anyway, screw the shock extensions, put some falcon shocks on It. You will like the ride better that way. All this my too sense and based on in depth research.

 

[Diaster]

Oh and just in case anyone is curious, 33X12.50 x 18 with 4.5 backspaced Fuel wheels will fit just fine on stock, nonRubicon Gladiator. Never rubs or hits.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

FYI a 1.5 to 2” lift will shift the front front axle back slightly and rear axle forward slightly, adjustable control arms will bring that back, but it is so small as not to be an issue. it will change the driveshaft to axle angle but again, within tolerances. The Loft will also shift the front axle to the left slightly, approx 1/4 inch, if that bothers you there is an adjustable bar for that as well. In any case you may have to realign your steering wheel a tad. Logic will show that moving an axle forward should not cause a “death wobble” neither should sideways. I believe the biggest contributor to death wobble is worn components due to oversized tires, ball joints etc. not to be confused with the “wandering about” common with straight axles. That sensation is increased with “floatation tires.” The steering stabilizer is important as a dampener when hitting rocks curbs etc. it reduces some of the “shock” of that impact To protect your steering unit And as a byproduct may “tighten up” your steering control/feel somewhat. Only a fool would remove that stabilizer unless they are 100% mallcrawler and know they will never hit a curb over 3 mph. ShOrt version, slap a teraflex or similar 1.5 level kit on, have the alignment checked and don’t sweat it. Oh and just because you under there anyway, screw the shock extensions, put some falcon shocks on It. You will like the ride better that way. All this my too sense and based on in depth research.

Or if your suspension is dialed in you can remove and ride without a steering stabilizer. I rode for 3 days without mine and hit plenty of bumps along the way, some at more than 70 mph on I-85. I'm not saying ride forever without it, but if your suspension is dialed in then you can survive without it. Also not saying it doesn't make a difference having one on because it does tighten up the steering, but I'll promise you a busted steering stabilizer has never been a cause of Death Wobble but will aid in masking another components failure that is causing the DW.

 

[Diaster]

Or if your suspension is dialed in you can remove and ride without a steering stabilizer. I rode for 3 days without mine and hit plenty of bumps along the way, some at more than 70 mph on I-85. I'm not saying ride forever without it, but if your suspension is dialed in then you can survive without it. Also not saying it doesn't make a difference having one on because it does tighten up the steering, but I'll promise you a busted steering stabilizer has never been a cause of Death Wobble but will aid in masking another components failure that is causing the DW.

i agree with you ccomplelty. True story, Ran my lifted 77 Chevy 3/4 ton for years on 38s and never an issue.the one day ?I smacked a rock, hard, cracked the frame right at the steering box mount. Ouch. Welded and gussetted and bought a stabilizer lol

 

[TXJTMAXMUS]

I did the Rough Country 2.5” leveling kit but for me it didn’t look right. I never really liked it (just my opinion). I’ve now installed a 1-1/2” leveling kit in the back and it looks almost perfectly aligned. So I would say the 1-1/2” front will get you as level as she will sit. I can’t believe this but I don’t have a side on view photo... this is the best I have that shows the alignment.

what is your tire offset there? What size tire?

 

[willemlock]

what is your tire offset there? What size tire?

The rims come with a -18 offset and those were 35's (35x12.50R17). I now run 37x13.50R17 on the same rims but with the 3" RockKrawler springs in the back.

 

[ofalcon]

I did the Rough Country 2.5” leveling kit but for me it didn’t look right. I never really liked it (just my opinion). I’ve now installed a 1-1/2” leveling kit in the back and it looks almost perfectly aligned. So I would say the 1-1/2” front will get you as level as she will sit. I can’t believe this but I don’t have a side on view photo... this is the best I have that shows the alignment.

Hi Willemlock. thanks for your comment! Could you please provide the info of the back 1-1/2” leveling kit you bought? I'm planning to do the same.

 

[willemlock]

Hi Willemlock. thanks for your comment! Could you please provide the info of the back 1-1/2” leveling kit you bought? I'm planning to do the same.

Yep I got mine from Rusty’s Offroad. Back then they were the only ones who made it. They do still make it and very cost effective.

 

[AZJT]

I put in the Rubicon Express JT7134E kit and it looks pretty darn level to me - I say this because depending where I park, sometimes the front looks slightly higher, sometimes the back, so it evens out (at least mentally). In all seriousness, I was recently in a Target parking lot that looked pretty level, and my JT looked as level as could be from what I could see.

First pic is with the kit installed and OEM tires; second is with Nitto Ridge Grapplers (285/75/18) installed.

 

[awraynor]

On my Sport S (with JL Rubi wheels/tires), a 1.5” was all I would want. A 2.5” would be nose high for sure.

Did you install the lift yourself or have it done?

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