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Lights on but engine doesn’t start/turn over - single click then restarts

GeneralMaximus

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I didn't know about the start stop page to be honest, because since I got car (used, one owner), I turned it off and it has remained off.
If you turned it off once and your Jeep hasn’t required you to push that disable button after every start, then that sounds like your Aux Battery has been weak since the get go. And now its finally killed your main battery.
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What would cause the battery to be trashed after only 2 1/2 years? 2021 with 32k miles, original OEM battery... thought they lasted around 5 years. Don't have any mods that would put strain on it either.
 
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If you turned it off once and your Jeep hasn’t required you to push that disable button after every start, then that sounds like your Aux Battery has been weak since the get go. And now its finally killed your main battery.
Yeah, since the day I left dealer (April) I turned it off and it never turned back on since - I was actually happy with it because I would need to disengage every single time, thought Jeep figured some people don't like it and can choose to keep on or off indefinitely..
 

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What would cause the battery to be trashed after only 2 1/2 years? 2021 with 32k miles, original OEM battery... thought they lasted around 5 years. Don't have any mods that would put strain on it either.
Answer: parasitic drain from the Aux battery. 2.5 years seems to be about par, for the scenario you’re in
 
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While I sit here waiting… do you guys recommend trying the relays just in case? Which ones?

Jeep Gladiator Lights on but engine doesn’t start/turn over - single click then restarts IMG_7542


Jeep Gladiator Lights on but engine doesn’t start/turn over - single click then restarts IMG_7545
 

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20min connected to donor car … voltage is lower.

Now it won’t let me lock it or turn off.. says it’s not on park but it is.. great!

Jeep Gladiator Lights on but engine doesn’t start/turn over - single click then restarts IMG_7547


 
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Lost1wing

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That is not looking good. Maybe a call for the tow truck. Isolating the batteries and checking fuses would be my next step. If you throw a main battery at it, and you have a bad aux battery, you could be in the same place you are now. If you have a volt meter, you can at least test for voltage of the aux and your fuses.
 

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What would cause the battery to be trashed after only 2 1/2 years? 2021 with 32k miles, original OEM battery... thought they lasted around 5 years. Don't have any mods that would put strain on it either.
The computers, alarm, and head unit have a constant parasitic drain. The life expectancy of batteries in the JT is about three years. If it is not driven enough to keep the batteries charged, or have a battery maintainer connected when not in use, they die sooner. The quality of the factory installed batteries is not the best, usually leading to a shorter life span.

The ESS not working was your warning sign that there was an electrical issue that needed investigation. Not knowing this, you ignored it (like many would do) and it left you in your current situation. Your story will get added to the pile of misinformation that people lean on to tell everyone else they need to remove the Aux battery.
 
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That is not looking good. Maybe a call for the tow truck. Isolating the batteries and checking fuses would be my next step. If you throw a main battery at it, and you have a bad aux battery, you could be in the same place you are now. If you have a volt meter, you can at least test for voltage of the aux and your fuses.
Thanks man, you’ve been great. Vehicle stuck in park now won’t turn off. I’m in a parking garage too, not much room for a tow truck and narrow gate getting out of garage, but we’ll see.

I see some people charge their aux by using the negative on main battery and positive directly to first post near fuse/relays. Worth a shot? Don’t have a volt meter handy right now, so not sure which is dead main or aux or both.
 

Lost1wing

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Thanks man, you’ve been great. Vehicle stuck in park now won’t turn off. I’m in a parking garage too, not much room for a tow truck and narrow gate getting out of garage, but we’ll see.

I see some people charge their aux by using the negative on main battery and positive directly to first post near fuse/relays. Worth a shot? Don’t have a volt meter handy right now, so not sure which is dead main or aux or both.
Both batteries should be connected in parallel unless you had another failure. When you have the jump cables connected to the main battery it should be connected to the aux as well. One of your main fuses f3 could be blown preventing the aux from receiving a charge. Hard to say without testing with a meter.

Edit... above I said f3. N3 is what I meant to say. If this is open for some reason it could prevent the Aux battery from being charged. Putting a trickle charger on N1 and ground would charge your aux in this situation. You would not want to jump start being connected to N1, other fuses will open.
 
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Both batteries should be connected in parallel unless you had another failure. When you have the jump cables connected to the main battery it should be connected to the aux as well. One of your main fuses f3 could be blown preventing the aux from receiving a charge. Hard to say without testing with a meter.

I’ll get a meter tomorrow. Are you suggesting I clamp to both f1 and the main? Or directly to f1 only?

Edit: I misread your message, parallel should be its current state, meaning it does both at once. Copy - eyes are burning from research.

Jeep Gladiator Lights on but engine doesn’t start/turn over - single click then restarts IMG_7551
 
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InvertedLogic

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Just deleted my aux battery this afternoon after it had similar symptoms and would not start Monday morning. Full light show and wipers going nuts and it claiming t wasn’t in park.

Having just done this, no need for a tow truck. Get a new main battery, remove and tape up the negative cable from the main battery that goes to the aux battery, pull fuse 42. That should allow the Jeep to start and drive fairly normally. From there you can decide to pull the aux out and replace it or leave it out.

Theoretically you could trickle charge the main with an agm charger (like I did all day today) and recover it. But the likelihood of a power outlet, a charger on hand, and 12hrs to charge it is low. Just grab a new interstate battery from Costco and be done with it.
 

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The aux battery is not something you would do in the AutoZone parking lot. Care must be taken when removing the battery cables so not to blow fuses. There are discussions on the direction to take replacing the aux battery. You have that option of the dealer under warranty that also comes with risks. The dealer will make it right eventually if something goes wrong. I feel pretty confident that you can get it started from a second vehicle. It may just take some time to build up enough charge especially with small gauge cables.
you could absolutely do this in the parking lot. I did this street parked in front of my house with the curb in the way. Just disconnect the negative terminal from the main battery before doing literally anything.

What would cause the battery to be trashed after only 2 1/2 years? 2021 with 32k miles, original OEM battery... thought they lasted around 5 years. Don't have any mods that would put strain on it either.
Seems like the aux batteries are kind of junk then kill the main. My aux is currently reading 4.2V….that is beyond dead and destroyed. Supposedly agm too, just a trash one subject to heat right by the cat converter.

Jeep Gladiator Lights on but engine doesn’t start/turn over - single click then restarts IMG_6017
 

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I’ll get a meter tomorrow. Are you suggesting I clamp to both f1 and the main? Or directly to f1 only?

Edit: I misread your message, parallel should be its current state, meaning it does both at once. Copy - eyes are burning from research.

IMG_7551.jpeg
You say there is nothing extra connected - what is that blue cable going to?
 

Lost1wing

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Looks like my photo. The OP was just using it to ask a question.
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