Lights on but engine doesn’t start/turn over - single click then restarts

[KQL]

Here’s one I saved that shows the mini-jumper cable to expedite jump starting. Haven’t had a need to use it yet, just saved the photo

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[Lost1wing]

I’ll get a meter tomorrow. Are you suggesting I clamp to both f1 and the main? Or directly to f1 only?

Edit: I misread your message, parallel should be its current state, meaning it does both at once. Copy - eyes are burning from research.

A meter will be very helpful. Check N1, N2 and N3. They should all be the same. If not, you have an open fuse or open pcr. If you put the positive jumper cable on N1, you can put a charge on the Aux, but don't try to start the engine. Too much current will be going the wrong way.



In a parking garage without tools is a tough spot.

 

[OverBrass]

Thanks everyone... ended up having MOPAR send a tow, requested flat tow since in garage and flat bed probably wouldn't work with 8ft clearance. They should be here in an hour or so, hope they actually bring flat tow capable... going to pull the red string and get it on neutral. It's pouring out today, should I worry? Dealer is 17 miles away.

It's under warranty, so best to get it fully checked out in case the N3 is blown as well.

When it got stuck on run, I locked it and left it (wasn't sure if i could remove battery at that point safely).. came back an hour or so later, and the light show was going off and wipers going wild. Unplugged the windshield wiper relay (was clicking inside fuse box).

At that point, it was down to under 4V.

 

[Old Young Man]

If it doesn’t start when jumping from a running vehicle or show good voltage I would be checking battery terminal connection at main battery.

 

[OverBrass]

You say there is nothing extra connected - what is that blue cable going to?

I honestly don’t know, I would need to get under it to see where it leads. Maybe the winch with fog lights? Bought it used, only one owner.

I was under the impression the fog lights on the front bumper were powered by the winch, could be wrong.

 

[kb5zcr]

Well, one thing is sure. You will need to learn more about how all this works (its not really very hard) once you get it back running and sorted out.

I thought you said it didn't have any electrical mods, but now we see it has a winch and aftermarket fog lamps. Sometimes, electrical mods can cause issues it not installed correctly.

Once you get new batteries in it, and its running fine again, take some time to learn the basics of how your jeep operates. It will really be a big help in the long run.

Please keep us in the loop on how this turns out.

Thanks

 

[GrubbyBaja]

It's going to be interesting to see how this "warranty" plays out with the aftermarket winch and lights. My bet is replacing both batteries will solve the issue; just not sure how the aftermarket electrical items will affect the warranty. OverBrass, recommend you go ahead and pull your warranty paperwork to see how it is written and what is covered. Probably too late now, but as discussed in other threads, it is best to disconnect any aftermarket electrical items before returning to dealer for electrical warranty work. Hope it all works out OK.

 

[Lost1wing]

It's going to be interesting to see how this "warranty" plays out with the aftermarket winch and lights. My bet is replacing both batteries will solve the issue; just not sure how the aftermarket electrical items will affect the warranty. OverBrass, recommend you go ahead and pull your warranty paperwork to see how it is written and what is covered. Probably too late now, but as discussed in other threads, it is best to disconnect any aftermarket electrical items before returning to dealer for electrical warranty work. Hope it all works out OK.

That circuit is being used I believe is de-energized when off. Noted it doesn't look like a piggyback fuse holder. More like a wire stuffed into the socket.

 

[OverBrass]

Well, one thing is sure. You will need to learn more about how all this works (its not really very hard) once you get it back running and sorted out.

I thought you said it didn't have any electrical mods, but now we see it has a winch and aftermarket fog lamps. Sometimes, electrical mods can cause issues it not installed correctly.

Once you get new batteries in it, and its running fine again, take some time to learn the basics of how your jeep operates. It will really be a big help in the long run.

Please keep us in the loop on how this turns out.

Thanks

Thanks, that’s why I try to read up on the forum and other sites as much as possible. I didn’t think the winch would have any effect on the batteries since it has its on power unit sitting on top.

The fog lamps I overlooked, figured it was wired together with winch, silly assumption.

I just dropped it off at dealer. Tow came in, guy didn’t speak much English so had to work with my limited Spanish. I requested it from MOPAR at 9:30 am for 12pm pick up and they didn’t show up until 4:45pm, after several updates saying they were arriving. I specifically requested flat tow capable several times, they assured me that was the case being it’s coming from MOPAR order. Tow said he couldn’t flat tow and tires were too big. I said no dolly tow and flat bed couldn’t fit in the garage with 7’8 clearance I assume.

He jumped the main which read 4.2V and then it started. For first time, it gave me the start/stop warning light and said not available. Never had that before (probably because it’s been off since I bought it). But once it turned on, it stayed at 13.7-8V entire drive. When I turned it off at dealer, was at 12.4V steady while off.

I’m guessing aux is dead and drained main as everyone’s said. Just don’t know why when I tried jumping it from donor vehicle, Mazda CX-5 (20 mins plugged in) it didn’t work.

I hope the mods don’t affect warranty… I know that mods can void warranty, but didn’t think battery replacement would be voided since I didn’t know of any specific electrical mods/mods tied to it… we’ll see what they say tomorrow. Will let y’all know.

 

[kb5zcr]

Thanks for the update. By the way, your winch is powered by your vehicle battery. That box on top of the winch is just the control box for the winch, it is tied into your vehicle battery.

 

[OverBrass]

Thanks for the update. By the way, your winch is powered by your vehicle battery. That box on top of the winch is just the control box for the winch, it is tied into your vehicle battery.

Oh interesting... well then, it must be connected to the aux which has been dead, because neither the fog or winch work. I hope this all doesn't yield a call from dealer saying warranty is voided and I need to pay for battery and labor... doubt there's any way to push back on it too... I would think they would call me prior to doing replace and labor to let me know that's the case?

 

[djthumper]

If it came with OEM fogs then it would run from the panel switch. The winch probably has a relay to energize for it to work from the main battery. If it is connected to the aux battery you wouldn't be able to pull yourself out of a parking space.

As already stated, when you get it back you may want to learn how things are wired and operate.

 

[OverBrass]

If it came with OEM fogs then it would run from the panel switch. The winch probably has a relay to energize for it to work from the main battery. If it is connected to the aux battery you wouldn't be able to pull yourself out of a parking space.

As already stated, when you get it back you may want to learn how things are wired and operate.

Will read up on all of it when I get it back... still there, got a video message of the tech saying he recommends front/rear diff service and transfer case service. Since it was bought used at 31k miles, I'm not sure if it has been done or if it needs it. Based on what I'm reading, I could probably ride it out a bit longer on both of those given the mileage and age. Plus, havent had any issues with traction or gears.

 

[cranbiz]

At 32K you do not need differential or transfer case service. This is a money grab by the dealer.

Inspect the differentials and transfer case fluid yes, Change is at 120K per the owners manual unless you are towing or severe duty use.

 

[OverBrass]

Update time folks... picked her up from the dealer. They swapped both main and aux, covered under warranty. Runs just like she did before. ESS now works as normal, 14V while driving then 12.4V when stopped. If I do disengage ESS every time I get in the car, will that cause issues again with aux battery?

Funny enough... fog lamps on aftermarket bumpers work now... also, I had noticed the lock button on the driver door would sometimes require 1-2-3 pushes for it to actually work. Now, it's picking up normal one touch and go (not sure if related though).

I asked for a diagnosis of the vehicle, but they said they need to bill Jeep for the service then will email me the information ... wonder if I am home free or if they still have time to argue the mods vs warranty... though, it's just couple batteries, nothing major or expensive.

Cranbiz, copy thank you - did not do either of them.

For all others, thanks for taking the time to explain things to this jeep noob... will definitely be reading up on how things work and how things are interconnected. Winch still doesn't seem to work though, that's the next fix. Remote for it seems to be charged up, lights on it work, but the switch on winch doesnt seem to active it and when I click buttons on remote, nothing happens.

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