Loctite and suspension components??

[elPollero]

Would like to hear what the forums thinks on Loctite on suspension parts.

Got my 2” AEV spacer lift ready to install along with Rancho geometry brackets.
Anyone using Loctite when installing lifts or strongly advise not to .
I have a reliable torque wrench and will torque as recommended.
Blue Loctite seems like a possible added insurance but want to hear from those who have installed components themselves.

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[Camaroboi13]

I haven’t done it yet but I’ve considered it. After 2500 miles on my lift I lost a rear sway bar link bolt completely, and both sides of my track bar have loosened up. I put red loctite on my Falcon stabilizer bracket because it came with some and required it. Other than that, I’m not sure if it’s a good idea so I’m interested in this one as well.

 

[tysongladiator]

Some of the bolts and nuts require loctite and are actually on factory components.

 

[Camaroboi13]

The only factory loctite I came across was on the transmission cross member. Control arms, end links, shocks, and track bars had no loctite on them.

 

[mx5red]

There is a reduced torque value for bolts with lubrication vs dry ones (because it lubricates the nut/bolt), so when people put loctite on I wonder if you use the same torque values, or less?
I’ve never seen anybody say that for loctite but it would make sense.. or maybe it doesn’t matter.

 

[Vtur]

Threadlock aren't needed on any factory prevail lock nuts. Just ensure that it's torque to specs.

Edit: place the torque wrench on either side of bolts or nuts that has the cup washer to obtain an accurate torque, and it also prevent scratching up the paint and rust.

 

[elPollero]

I understand that it’s not required. It would seem that it would add an extra layer of assurance that proper torque gives. There is a lot a lot of vibration and stress on suspension components .
I am leaning toward using at least blue Loctite when installing for my on peace of mind.
I have seen different part manufacturers that require loctite ( like with wheel spacers) instruct to torque with Loctite on assembly then check torque value at 10-20lbs less toque force to assure proper torque without breaking the bond.
Can anyone give a reason this would not be ok?

 

[Duece McCracken]

I understand that it’s not required. It would seem that it would add an extra layer of assurance that proper torque gives. There is a lot a lot of vibration and stress on suspension components .
I am leaning toward using at least blue Loctite when installing for my on peace of mind.
I have seen different part manufacturers that require loctite ( like with wheel spacers) instruct to torque with Loctite on assembly then check torque value at 10-20lbs less toque force to assure proper torque without breaking the bond.
Can anyone give a reason this would not be ok?

Depending on the fastener, what it's doing, and if there isn't a spec for it to be dry, I always apply either antiseize or various loctites depending on the application/corrosion factor.

I wouldnt sweat using blue loctite on fasteners at all. Red requires thought due to heat required to remove them. I slather antiseize all over the place all willy nilly on contact surfaces, shoulders of bolts, behind washers, really I may have a problem, lol

As far as adjusting torque, technically you should for really critical components, but for suspension, I wouldn't sit down and do math. It's just my preference not to. They are heavy duty hardware, so a little extra torque is normally still within the tolerances of the fasteners.

Or you can get the torque specs, hardware size and grade, and do the simple math to get a wet torque value if you want.

 

[Lunentucker]

Blue isn't going to hurt anything on things like control arms, drag link, stabilizer, trackbar, swaybar link bolts, steering box bolts, and any add-ons like geometry correction brackets or driveline spacers.
Red on the Ptiman arm nut.
Clean bolts is as important, and some bolts are spec'd to not be reused but replaced when factor ones are broken free.

 

[Vtur]

I understand that it’s not required. It would seem that it would add an extra layer of assurance that proper torque gives. There is a lot a lot of vibration and stress on suspension components .
I am leaning toward using at least blue Loctite when installing for my on peace of mind.
I have seen different part manufacturers that require loctite ( like with wheel spacers) instruct to torque with Loctite on assembly then check torque value at 10-20lbs less toque force to assure proper torque without breaking the bond.
Can anyone give a reason this would not be ok?

Usually, when threadlock is required are when the the applications aren't using lock nuts, cupped flange bolt or washers (axles to pinion flanges, ring gears etc). Most Gladi suspension used prevail lock nut and a cup washer. The springing cup washers on the bolts replaced the split & flat washers combo.

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