Looking for advice on BUDGET and minimal geometry correction

[KKriss]

Hey all, I know this topic is discussed extensively, but I’ve searched this forum quite a bit and come up short on a few questions I need answered. Most of it in regards to geometry correction with my “Franken-lift”. A quick rundown on parts… for starters I have 2” synergy lift coils, in which I got roughly 2.75-3” of lift out of. Paired with that I have bilstein b8 5160 shocks for a 2-3” lift height. Along with those parts I have the factory mopar extended LCAs in the front. I love the way it rides, but I know it could be better. Currently my caster is sitting right at 6° IIRC, which seems well in spec for 3” of lift. It drives well and tracks (pretty) straight, certainly could be improved. I have plans of lifting the front another 1.5” to level it out, but this is where my questions rise.

Front driveshaft: at full droop currently my driveshaft is at an extreme angle, due to the synergy springs being a bit longer than most 2” coils, offering more suspension flex. Anything more and I’ll be facing some serious issues with the stock unit. Looking at the rough country driveshaft, is that a solid option? Does anyone have experience with it? Normally not a huge fan of rough country products, then again I’ve only heard the horror stories, never actually owned any products from them, but the front driveline seems to have good reviews.

Caster and pinion angle: I’m certain I’ll need adjustable control arms, but to keep it within budget, I don’t want to shell out a lot of cash for all 8 (not yet at least). Could I get away with front lowers and be within spec? What about the rear? Will a carrier bearing spacer provide proper pinion angle, or do I need control arms back there too?

Axle centering: still a bit hazy on adjustable track bars vs. relocation brackets. Currently the front axle is about 1” off center, and the rear about .75” off center. Relocation for the rear and adjustable for the front? Adjustable for both? Not quite sure what to go with here. The rear track bar isn’t at what I’d consider an extreme angle, then again it certainly isn’t level. Same to be said with the front.

A lot to unpack, I know, and I’ll apologize for that now. It should also be noted that this is my daily driver, as well as my first Jeep, and I typically stick to the trails here in Colorado rated a 6 and below, but definitely have plans on growing my off road skills. Any advice here is greatly appreciated, as I’m sort of at a loss on what to do next. Thank you all!

Sponsored

 

[Pilsner]

Caster can be prioritized in these because of the front axle disconnect as you usually aren't going fast in 4wd. I believe that there is only a 6 degree separation in these, like the JK (which is dumb, but not the point) which is split between caster and pinion angle. I think the stock config is close to 6 deg caster and ~0 degree pinion angle. I don't want more than 6 degrees because that will angle the pinion down and make the drive shaft issue worse. If you lift more with the same setup, you will decrease caster and would need longer lower control arms or shorter uppers to stay the same. In the rear the spacer will help for sure and should be fine, but you could also adjust lower control arms without the same issues as the front. An after market front driveshaft at or above 4" becomes needed...probably. I still have my stock at 4" of lift, but I wheel fairly hard, so it will need to be replaced at some point. You can gain a little help on the front driveshaft angle with both extending front upper and lower control arms to put the axle back forward where it goes and then adjust caster with uppers, but it really minimal. I prefer Adams or Tom Woods and have run both on my JK and don't trust RC for anything, but that's just me. I prefer adjustable track bars over relocation so I can get it just right. Also in the rear, some like Metalcloak can clear a 37 under the bed in the stock spare location.

 

[Stan H]

Oh so what year is this and mileage? Thats usually a good starting point ,Yes is the answer to the LCA's

 

[Pilsner]

Long story short, you can probably be fine with just lower control arms. I'd get the carrier spacer too because it is cheap and clears up most of the angle issue. I'd get adjustable track bars if budget allows. Next will probably be tie rod, drag link, and ball joints if you wheel. The rod ends and ball joints were all worn out on mine at about 35k miles so just FYI.

 

[JTGuy]

I had a JK that I lifted 4+ inches and fixed the pinion angle with JKS control arm brackets and adjustable control arms. Then I installed a Yukon manual hub kit , best thing ever. No vibes with great caster angle.

 

[KKriss]

Caster can be prioritized in these because of the front axle disconnect as you usually aren't going fast in 4wd. I believe that there is only a 6 degree separation in these, like the JK (which is dumb, but not the point) which is split between caster and pinion angle. I think the stock config is close to 6 deg caster and ~0 degree pinion angle. I don't want more than 6 degrees because that will angle the pinion down and make the drive shaft issue worse. If you lift more with the same setup, you will decrease caster and would need longer lower control arms or shorter uppers to stay the same. In the rear the spacer will help for sure and should be fine, but you could also adjust lower control arms without the same issues as the front. An after market front driveshaft at or above 4" becomes needed...probably. I still have my stock at 4" of lift, but I wheel fairly hard, so it will need to be replaced at some point. You can gain a little help on the front driveshaft angle with both extending front upper and lower control arms to put the axle back forward where it goes and then adjust caster with uppers, but it really minimal. I prefer Adams or Tom Woods and have run both on my JK and don't trust RC for anything, but that's just me. I prefer adjustable track bars over relocation so I can get it just right. Also in the rear, some like Metalcloak can clear a 37 under the bed in the stock spare location.

This is very helpful thank you. I was planning on rocking the stock driveline until failure. And like you mentioned I don’t really trust RC either, pretty skeptical on it, I was looking into the Adam’s or tom woods shafts also, or having one built locally, I think there’s a few places. The price tag on the RC is just very appealing, but you get what you pay for I suppose. I’ll look into uppers and lowers for the front and start there most likely.

 

[KKriss]

Oh so what year is this and mileage? Thats usually a good starting point ,Yes is the answer to the LCA's

It’s a 2022, just about to roll over 50k miles. I’m thinking LCAs will indeed be the starting point.

 

[KKriss]

Long story short, you can probably be fine with just lower control arms. I'd get the carrier spacer too because it is cheap and clears up most of the angle issue. I'd get adjustable track bars if budget allows. Next will probably be tie rod, drag link, and ball joints if you wheel. The rod ends and ball joints were all worn out on mine at about 35k miles so just FYI.

Yeah my alignment shop noted that my tie rod had a bit of play in it, steering is definitely on the to-do list. I also just did ball joints about a week ago. I put on the 37s and noticed a little slop, I went with the American Iron Off-road ball joints deletes, they’re solid as a rock now.

 

[Pilsner]

I had a JK that I lifted 4+ inches and fixed the pinion angle with JKS control arm brackets and adjustable control arms. Then I installed a Yukon manual hub kit , best thing ever. No vibes with great caster angle.

Went through that too. JK is a problem because there is no front disconnect. I'm at 4" or so on that one and used lowers to push forward a little past stock, then used uppers to set caster to 3.5 degrees. Might move that up a little, but I have a double cardon front shaft and it has issues if I go much more. Have been considering manual hubs for that exact reason. Easier than a cut and turn. Not sure why they set the separation so small.

Sponsored