Looking for Jeep pro to help convert my JT back to stock

[ShadowsPapa]

It’ll probably fit better. I see reports that winch wiring fits better on the new grille.

i'm wondering if the more open grill will make my ambient temperature issues even worse. With the Overland, driving with the plow on over about 25 mph or so, the plow causes a very low pressure area ahead of the grill.
Hot engine bay air is drawn FORWARD, heating the ambient temperature sensor and actually causing the engine temp to get into the 220s even when it's 0 degrees outside.
When the ambient outside temp reads 70 to 101 like it often does with the plow mounted driving on the highway, the HVAC shuts off all heat to the cabin - believing you need COOL air and it gets bloody cold inside that thing.
I have found I need to trigger JSCAN to run the engine fan on high speed to offset that low pressure area caused by the plow and actually pull air IN, back into the engine bay and across the radiator.
I'm sort of wondering if the larger grill area will cause more air to leave the engine bay..........

Wiring should be better - large cables go up between grill and bumper to the snow plow to operate the hydraulic motor, lighting and so on. I tuck the connectors back in behind the bumper to keep them out of the weather otherwise.

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[NULL POINTER]

By the way, good move on leaving the old RSE rock slider steps with the old vehicle., you would either have had to sell them or grind and fab some parts to make it fit on your new Mojave. The 2024+ has some slight changes compared to years before and you'll notice two part numbers on the RSE website, one fits 2020-2023 JTs, the other is for 2024+.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

By the way, good move on leaving the old RSE rock slider steps with the old vehicle., you would either have had to sell them or grind and fab some parts to make it fit on your new Mojave. The 2024+ has some slight changes compared to years before and you'll notice two part numbers on the RSE website, one fits 2020-2023 JTs, the other is for 2024+.

Seriously? Wow, thanks for that........... I will have to look!
I really wonder what changed?
You made me really glad I didn't jump into a deal I was sort of making last year - and moving the steps over, and my wife will see this as yet another reason to prove her thinking was correct. And frankly, she deserves it.
I'm going to take a look!

 

[Jaxmax]

Bill , I am actually ordering Mojave X springs for my Mojave some guys with winch’s on have and said much improvement. Looks like a friend here is setting me up with the Mopar performance off-road bumper I really like , so front up adding the winch to my plastic bumper was only 70 pounds added weight.
Congrats on the Mojito Glady it is my favorite color and was never a JT option.
As for the weight of the plow, start thinking about yourselve and just do your driveway , build a stand for it that you just drive up to connect it and back out, and take it off and don’t drive down the road with it. Mojave X will handle it for just doing the driveway, it’s the driving around bouncing up and down that is hard on a truck suspension…..Jack
PS: Still focus on getting your girl better!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Bill , I am actually ordering Mojave X springs for my Mojave some guys with winch’s on have and said much improvement. Looks like a friend here is setting me up with the Mopar performance off-road bumper I really like , so front up adding the winch to my plastic bumper was only 70 pounds added weight.
Congrats on the Mojito Glady it is my favorite color and was never a JT option.
As for the weight of the plow, start thinking about yourselve and just do your driveway , build a stand for it that you just drive up to connect it and back out, and take it off and don’t drive down the road with it. Mojave X will handle it for just doing the driveway, it’s the driving around bouncing up and down that is hard on a truck suspension…..Jack
PS: Still focus on getting your girl better!

There's a reason the Mojave X springs are different than Mojave springs - - a lot of weight difference.
The X has:
Power seats - much heavier
Front and rear steel bumpers with skid plate
Side rock rails or whatever they call them - much heavier
The X features add a lot of weight the non-X doesn't have. It drops the payload a lot for the X as well as requiring heavier springs to support the weight.
It's like people saying "I put Rubicon springs under my Sport" - which of the 3 Rubicon springs did you use? I bet it's even worse now with the Rubicon X - probably 4 different numbers now.
Having Mojave X springs under an X won't necessarily handle the weights (towing, plow, etc.) any better because they are already supporting a lot more weight. I'm going to have to see how it goes. It could end up dropping the back just as much as the Overland did when I hook up my trailer.


I only use the plow on my own driveway - and shop approach. (other factors - like insurance and stuff - i'd never consider doing any for hire)
the issue is putting it on and taking it off in the cold.. Even with the stand which these already have hydraulics settle and such that I often have to carry a hydraulic jack out to lift it to get it on.............. there's no "building a stand" to it.
It's supposed to be fast on, fast off, but with the hydraulics that settle over time, the fact the height of the truck isn't always exactly the same due to fuel, and other factors.....
Putting it on, taking it off, when it's 0 degrees, 30 mph winds and so on - no thanks. Sometimes I really need to drive it with the plow on the front.
Not often, but it does need to happen now and then.
With Iowa, we can have snow on Tuesday, then again on Friday and in between, it's extremely cold and windy. So it's going to stay on the truck until the snow is out of the forecast. I've mounted that thing when it was extremely cold and windy, which is normal here.
We've had only two real snows here this year (crazy drought winter!) and there was only a couple of days between them - wind and cold.

A number of people have said "just drop it off and put it back when needed". At 68, Raynaud's, and the fact that you are doing it in extreme cold and wind, often having to carry a heavy hydraulic jack out to account for settling of things. I have to plan on leaving it on once in a while.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Can't forget to remove my "clear" front side markers.......... just looked at a picture showing my JT next to my wife's JLU and saw the difference.

 

[BlackRuby23]

However since I'm pretty danged PICKY, even "anal" about how things are done - I don't want the neighborhood kid or shade-tree uncle bubba involved. A person who knows Jeeps well and could actually do it all on their own without hesitation would be best

And you're not taking it to a licensed shop because?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

And you're not taking it to a licensed shop because?

What licensed shop? Here - Des Moines? (I'd almost laugh, but see you are west coast so likely it's pretty easy to get things done with perfectionist work)

If there was such a thing here - it would likely cost thousands. I'll pay a few hundred, even swap some parts for the work.

Not sure what you mean by licensed shop - will have to see if I can look that up. It's Iowa, not a lot of Jeep modding done here.

 

[BlackRuby23]

What licensed shop? Here - Des Moines? (I'd almost laugh, but see you are west coast so likely it's pretty easy to get things done with perfectionist work)

If there was such a thing here - it would likely cost thousands. I'll pay a few hundred, even swap some parts for the work.

Not sure what you mean by licensed shop - will have to see if I can look that up. It's Iowa, not a lot of Jeep modding done here.

A licensed shop is literally that - a shop which has a business license hanging on the wall (a requirement) and is beholden to the laws of the land, which means standing behind their work and offering a warranty.

But I see your angle now, you want professional, high quality work but don't want to pay for it. Good luck with that is all I can say. I wouldn't let a stranger touch my Jeep for any amount of money. I'd barely let a licensed shop do it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

A licensed shop is literally that - a shop which has a business license hanging on the wall (a requirement) and is beholden to the laws of the land, which means standing behind their work and offering a warranty.

But I see your angle now, you want professional, high quality work but don't want to pay for it. Good luck with that is all I can say. I wouldn't let a stranger touch my Jeep for any amount of money. I'd barely let a licensed shop do it.

Don't know where you got the idea I "wanted pro work but not pay for it".
This is to REMOVE PARTS - so why pay 2 grand when I could pay a couple hundred or so, or a front steel bumper and some cash.

Shops don't mean high quality work - the skill and caring of the PERSON makes it so. I'd trust an individual more than a shop where you have zero control.
There are people here who do work at least as good as any shop, very trustworthy, who don't charge $170/hour.

With a shop, you are paying for the insurance, building and facilities, unemployment taxes, social security/medicare, vacations, lighting, heating and other things with a "licensed shop".
Worse, here you are about a month or so out getting in. (already checked on that)

I have a shop and required tools. I'd pay the person the same or more than they'd make in a shop. If they make $40/hour doing the work, that's what they'd get.
This is to strip this one down.

There are some people here I would trust - I follow their posts, their builds, their work, and can tell. But again, this is to strip this one down.

I'll deal with getting things moved to or installed in the new one later.

I guess you haven't paid attention to where I live and my situation.

 

[Blade1668]

Bill, if I was near you I'd drop by to at least help you remove it the stuff for you.
I'm starting my list of things to accomplish for the year.
FYI: hit me a msg, depending. I could maybe make a road trip to test out a temporary axle under my travel trailer.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Don't know where you got the idea I "wanted pro work but not pay for it".
This is to REMOVE PARTS - so why pay 2 grand when I could pay a couple hundred or so, or a front steel bumper and some cash.

Shops don't mean high quality work - the skill and caring of the PERSON makes it so. I'd trust an individual more than a shop where you have zero control.
There are people here who do work at least as good as any shop, very trustworthy, who don't charge $170/hour.

With a shop, you are paying for the insurance, building and facilities, unemployment taxes, social security/medicare, vacations, lighting, heating and other things with a "licensed shop".
Worse, here you are about a month or so out getting in. (already checked on that)

I have a shop and required tools. I'd pay the person the same or more than they'd make in a shop. If they make $40/hour doing the work, that's what they'd get.
This is to strip this one down.

There are some people here I would trust - I follow their posts, their builds, their work, and can tell. But again, this is to strip this one down.

I'll deal with getting things moved to or installed in the new one later.

I guess you haven't paid attention to where I live and my situation.

A "PS" to this - I don't even have to think twice on this and I know my wife agrees and supports this - I will pay cash and/or some parts I have.
For example - the new JTMX comes with a steel front bumper. That means I'd have to store my "knock-off" bumper somewhere. It's been powder coated, and I've started converting some of the fasteners to stainless steel.
I'd supply more stainless clips and such - I'd consider that going as partial payment if someone was interested. I took it fully apart and had each piece power coated to match Jeep bumper finish. (I don't think I have the front closeout piece where the winch rope comes through, but will look)
I likely have some other parts for trade like rear tow hooks (a pair) and the bezel for the right side tow hook. Never got it put into my Overland, and now I'm glad I didn't get that far.
I'm not looking for free but know there are very skilled people here who actually enjoy working on these things. I'd rather pay them than pay twice as much leaving it at a shop and be hopeful.
I'm picky as heck, but this is to strip this one - so as long as it goes back to "good"......... I don't want to take it to Scott at the dealership with missing parts or stuff falling off. He trusts me.

I don't have a ton of spare Jeep stuff - but there is that powder coated steel front bumper and other odds and ends perhaps. (Rubicon spring set, max tow rear springs, that sort of thing)
Cash or parts and cash.

Bill, if I was near you I'd drop by to at least help you remove it the stuff for you.
I'm starting my list of things to accomplish for the year.
FYI: hit me a msg, depending. I could maybe make a road trip to test out a temporary axle under my travel trailer.

My wife keeps saying - all of her friends are a close drive -30 minutes tops, and they get together at least 3 times a month if not more.
Me, it's the other way - 99% live hours away, several states away.

Got the VON today so it's a verified order. sounds like maybe 6 weeks is sort of the thing for some people here who ordered this year.
(they submitted the order about 5:30 on the 12th so no surprise it didn't come through as confirmed until the next day. I made Scott stay 90 minutes past his normal time)

 

[RudeJeepin]

Congrats, that's gonna be one sharp looking ride.
If only they had a motor to match...

 

[KevinC]

A number of people have said "just drop it off and put it back when needed". At 68, Raynaud's, and the fact that you are doing it in extreme cold and wind, often having to carry a heavy hydraulic jack out to account for settling of things. I have to plan on leaving it on once in a while.

As someone who somehow "contracted" Raynaud's in Iraq in 2004 (the coldest night I've ever experienced) I feel your pain, literally. Working outside in the cold becomes time sensitive and recovery can take hours. I live in Florida and can have an episode in 60 degree weather.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

As someone who somehow "contracted" Raynaud's in Iraq in 2004 (the coldest night I've ever experienced) I feel your pain, literally. Working outside in the cold becomes time sensitive and recovery can take hours. I live in Florida and can have an episode in 60 degree weather.

You know for sure. Mine isn't quite that bad, but a 40 degree day can trigger tingling in the fingers and more. It can be extremely painful.
The main reason I spent the bucks on a real snow plow was to avoid spending 90 minutes on an open lawn tractor with a 52" blade moving snow in the winter.
I can sit in the JT, already running for a couple of minutes to warm up the steering wheel (man, my Raynaud's fingers love that heated wheel!)


Anyway, generically speaking -

Jeep mods to remove:

* Snow plow wiring relays and lighting control box - involves removing fender liners, grill, headlights, parts of dash to access wiring
* Snow plow brackets
* Remove steel bumper, put stock bumper with fog lights back. (it will be extra laying around)
* Winch and winch plate - and all wiring/cables, solenoid
* 2" front receiver - will go on new truck
* Airlift airbags - may leave in place and order new for new truck??
* Front Synergy springs. Put stock Overland springs back under it (especially if there's interest in the 2" springs)
* 12v outlet and USB charging port in bed (put back blank plate)
* Rear bumper mounted backup lights, diode behind right tail light
* 12v outlet under hood
* Aux switch terminal block
* Spiderweb shade - will require lifting roof off (wife says get a green one so the blue one may stay with the truck)
* Mopar trailer brake controller - may leave in place and use Redarc controller I have in new?? opinions...........
* Remove dash 12v outlet extension wiring behind center of dash
* Phone mount on dash - will get installed on new
* Dead pedal - will get installed on new
* Suma side mirrors - will go to new JT
* Bed rails along sides (metric screws) - will get installed on new
* Tailgate ladder (metric screws) - will get installed on new
* IF someone is interested in them, I'd take off the Eibach rear shocks (I think good up to 2" lift?) and put the stock rear shocks back on. Dealer doesn't care.

Cash and/or trade for some parts I may have........
I had to order a new fuel pump for my 73 Javelin so I can get it running, and move it out. I'll have the JT in my shop - fairly well lit, tools close-by, and climate controlled.
It will involve moving some things around in my shop as the Javelin is a bit smaller, but most things like the lathe, tool box and other stuff is on wheels. So it may be a week before I'm actually ready - but that's ok since the new one isn't even built yet.

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