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Max Payloads?

uplandgunner

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1100lbs of feed in the bed. Still rake to the truck. Drove like a dream. Put the weight on the axle and forward I think you could put 1500lbs in there. Just have to remember braking distance
Jeep Gladiator Max Payloads? 1100 lbs
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basicGlad

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Online I have see Max Payload of the Overland being 1,120.

The door jam says 1,045 if I am reading it right.
I've researched this extensively as I had a lot of confusion with the Sport S and Base Sport's payload, and wanted to make sure I got a configuration with max payload. When I get my Manual Sport S no tow package I will be posting a photo of the door card to show off my 6250 GVWR and 1600 lbs of payload.

the difference between 1200 and 1600 is not a 400lb//10% accounting for trailer tongue weight. The max payload configurations actually have different springs.

Basically, only Automatic Sport S and Base Sport with Max Tow and Manual Sport S with no tow package get max payload.

I'm guessing you bought an automatic. Your payload will start at 1,100 and the rating on your door card will drop from 1,100 depending on how much equiptment the factory sips with it. Payload is everything in your bed, equiptment you bolt on and passengers in the truck.
Jeep Gladiator Max Payloads? Screenshot_20190816-170240_Chrom

if you're unsure posta photo of your door card and I can confirm where on this table you are. Also do you have auto or manual?
 

lrtexasman

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Do you have the max-tow package?

Does the max-tow package change the amount of weight you can put in the bed?

With the max-tow package does this change the amount of weight you can put in the bed while pulling a trailer?



Can you put one round bail of hail in the bed, about 1,200 pounds. With no trailer & be ok ??

He has an Overland with the tow package, he does not have the "Max Tow package." Some confusion with that on the forums.
 
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Vismich

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10% - 15%. Better stability wise to be a bit heavier than to be too light.
Thanks. Curious.... I’ve always towed with an SUV.... is it normal to get pulled and pushed around when passing a tractor trailer when towing with a pick up? I initially was thinking maybe because the back is so light?
 

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Thanks. Curious.... I’ve always towed with an SUV.... is it normal to get pulled and pushed around when passing a tractor trailer when towing with a pick up? I initially was thinking maybe because the back is so light?
I have had that happen when pulling a tall enclosed trailer. I think the semi can suck the flat side of the trailer towards it (higher velocity air flow creates a low pressure zone). I don't think it matters what kind of vehicle is doing the towing as I've had that happen in an SUV and full size van as well. In general I've found that the longer the wheelbase the more stable it will feel. The best tow vehicle I've ever driven (other then a semi) was a full size van with 155" wheelbase and not much overhang behind the rear axle.

Note that I don't have much experience towing with a mid size truck. I haven't had to tow much since I got my Colorado so I'm extrapolating from prior experience with full size trucks, full size vans, SUVs, and small cars. I assume things won't be drastically different, though.
 

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WXman

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What hitch do you have? If you could send me your set up I’d appreciate it. I’m going to try to tighten the weight distribution and go up one chain link to see if that helps.

I usually travel with my wife and two kids. One is a teenager. I figure we are roughly 500 lbs together.

Figure tongue weight is likely around 350 - 400 lbs.

That gets me to 900 lbs pretty quick before putting anything in the bed or camper. I thought about upgrading to a Rubicon... but doesn’t look like it’ll get me much more weight.
That's exactly the issue. People act like 800 lbs. is a lot, but it really isn't. Put a family in the truck and you can eat that up fast. When you then add 10-15% tongue weight, it doesn't leave you hardly any trailer at all that you can pull legally. Hence, why I always suggest against the Overland model. As you noted, Rubicon isn't much better...but it is slightly better.
 

OL1970

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Okay I’m probably going to get shot here but I hauled out my 5,000lb MasterCraft XStar on it’s 2,000lb trailer and dropped it off at the dealer for winter storage. I have the LE, yes I completely understand this is at the outer limits of its capacity, but never had to drive faster than 45Mph on the 25 mile trip. Honestly it did great for what it is, I was extremely cautious the first time towing with this truck and it exceeded my expectations. I am not naive enough to think though I would would want to pull this load at 65 mph for a couple hundred miles. I’ll rent a F350 for the weekend if that’s ever a necessity. G damn I love this rig!

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I have had that happen when pulling a tall enclosed trailer. I think the semi can suck the flat side of the trailer towards it (higher velocity air flow creates a low pressure zone). I don't think it matters what kind of vehicle is doing the towing as I've had that happen in an SUV and full size van as well. In general I've found that the longer the wheelbase the more stable it will feel. The best tow vehicle I've ever driven (other then a semi) was a full size van with 155" wheelbase and not much overhang behind the rear axle.

Note that I don't have much experience towing with a mid size truck. I haven't had to tow much since I got my Colorado so I'm extrapolating from prior experience with full size trucks, full size vans, SUVs, and small cars. I assume things won't be drastically different, though.
When I road motorcycles (a 1961 BMW w/ sidecar and a 64 R27 single cylinder with shaft drive like everyother BMW) I could really feel the push and pulls. When I was young and crazy I used to draft the semi's because I could see my rpm drop when I got the right place behind a trailer, it was though a little closer than the 2 second rule. With my '84 R80RT full fairing and all, there where times a semi would suck me from the right side to the left side of a lane.
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