Max Tow vs Rubicon for Towing

[DadJokes]

It is rated slightly lower due to cooling. I wouldn't be towing near limits with either motor, so a reasonable trailer (what I'd say is around 5500-6k max) will be fine either way.

What’s the Rubicon weigh btw? I’m thinking if the max tow weight goes down to 6500, I’m thinking 4500 dry weight max for the trailer.

Sponsored

 

[SwampNut]

I don't think the tow rating for any particular model is critical, if you're staying well under the limit for the entire line. My logic is that the tow rating varies by just a few hundred pounds and if you're at 5500-6k, you're nicely under the limits for the line in general. Also I guess a lot depends on the weather and the terrain. Climbing huge mountains here in AZ in 110 degree heat is about as hard as you can be on a vehicle. Across some northerly flatlands...tow the limits.

 

[Batts65]

I am looking at campers in the 3000-3500lbs range, hoping to keep it under 4000-4500lbs loaded up just to be safe on the JTR. Just needs enough room for me and the wife.
More concerned about the trailer brake and getting that squared away. I watched plenty of videos of others installing and not comfortable doing it myself.

 

[SwampNut]

You'll be fine. Ours is around 3500 loaded and it's like it's barely there. Do get a weight distribution hitch though, that's critical. Mine came with the towing package so my brake controller was plug and play.

 

[cbl1]

I am looking at campers in the 3000-3500lbs range, hoping to keep it under 4000-4500lbs loaded up just to be safe on the JTR. Just needs enough room for me and the wife.
More concerned about the trailer brake and getting that squared away. I watched plenty of videos of others installing and not comfortable doing it myself.

Just get a Bluetooth brake controller and don't worry with wiring then

 

[SwampNut]

I love tech. I love wireless devices. I always think new tech is better than old tech. I think that thing is awful and I'd never buy it. I think it's super dumb because you still need to have the full 7-wire system to the back. The ONLY thing you save is having the box inside the cab, but have it outside. Stupid.

Running a wire from the controller in the cab versus wiring a power wire from the battery is no real difference.

 

[cbl1]

Running a power wire from the front to rear is pretty easy on the gladiator.

 

[SwampNut]

So is running a wire from the driver's dash area where you put a controller. Super easy. If you can do one, you can do both. It was very easy on my JK too, which I did, but even easier on the Gladiator.

 

[cbl1]

I can't say I know how the current plug in back is wired - I'm assuming from your comments some pins are not active on the factory plug. I was just going by the OP saying he was not comfortable wiring a brake controller.

 

[SwampNut]

If there is an existing 7-pin factory plug, then the controller is plug and play. There's nothing to wire. If there is NOT an existing 7-pin plug, but there is a 4-pin, then you need to add at least two power wires; one for charge power and one for brake power. The Curt controller would eliminate one of those two wires. The 7-pin normally also has a reverse light wire, obviously not critical. If you do NOT have a 4-pin either, then you need to also run tail, turn, and brake lights with a ground.

That Curt controller requires a 7-pin with a minimum of the tail, turn, brake, ground, and power wires. So it really saves nothing.

Edit: Don't mean to be crapping on your idea, really, just setting expectations.

 

[cbl1]

Don't all gladiators with factory tow option have factory 7-pin. That is what I was assuming with the Bluetooth brake controller then being plug and play (the OP was not comfortable doing wiring).

 

[SwampNut]

Well, so we are both confused. Let me try this:

If the Gladiator has a factory tow package, with factory 7-pin, there's no wiring to do. Plug and play. Buy a controller and the Chrysler plug-in, can't go wrong, period.

If it doesn't, then it needs full wiring, and the BT controller saves almost nothing.

 

[whiteglad]

I am more old school and suspicious. I want my brake controller hared wired into the Jeep. It is very easy. The gray plug is tucked to a wiring harness under the dash and hard to see until you get your wife's hand held mirror and hold it under the dash to look up there. If you didn't order the factory trailer package, IDK what wiring is included in the Jeep.

 

[SwampNut]

The BT controller is still hard wired into the Jeep. That's my point; it's not like some wireless magic. The BT features is just how you set the levels.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

I’ve said it before, and this thread has proven my point... If you get anywhere near the 7000 lbs weight rating of the JTR on ANY model, you won’t be having a fun time, and your JT will struggle. So that extra 650 lbs of towing that the Max Tow offers is really more of a sales gimmick, than a truly functional feature. These vehicles were truly not designed to pull that much weight continuously. Can they for short distances? Sure. Can it hurt it? Absolutely. I don’t think I’d be willing tow more than 5,000-5,500 lbs. max behind a JT of any model...Period.

For me, the Rubicon is worth it. If I need to tow something more than a small trailer with a side-by-side or yard work supplies, I’m firing up my Cummins.

And the diesel is probably 500 lbs lower rating because the diesel engine weighs more than the all-aluminum 3.6L V6 gas motor does. Just like the Rubicon is 650 lbs less than the Max Tow because of the added weight of the Rubicon features.

Sponsored