MC true dual rate 2.5 vs 3.5

[samw5]

So I just pulled the trigger on an MC True Dual Rate setup for my JTR.

Currently on 35s but I have a set of Fuel wheels (5" BS) going on with 37s Alturo XT as soon as I get time to get them mounted.

I didn't get the full kit since I already had front adjustable JKS links, rear teraflex trackbar nor the outboard shock mounts since I was told it would be an issue with the 5" backspacing.
I did however pick their tuned Fox 2.0 so hopefully the ride will still feel nice both on and offroad.

I did originally asked for the 3.5" springs but downgraded to the 2.5 (order still has to ship). I've been worried that the higher lift would be causing issues since I'm not running the full Game Changer parts, and also haven't changed the front driveshaft yet.

This is still my daily driver and only wheel it a few times a year so definitely didn't wanna go all in at first.

I'm confident that the MC parts are gonna be awesome, just not sure on the following:
- should I go with the 3.5 springs right of the bat, even though I may not upgrade all control arms and front driveshaft right away (I suppose driveshaft would be first on the list of next upgrades... just hope not to bust the stock one for the time being).
- I read that the 2.5/2.5 or 3.5/3.5 springs do level the rig... I would still like a tiny bit of rake for towing ideally (currently have 1.5 front 3/4 rear, was thinking about keeping the 3/4 rear spacer).
- I do have a set of rear airbags that I've been using to tighten up the rear springs and help in the event of towing (not normally towing but would like to just be able to in case). Would I still be able to reuse them with the MC springs?

Any input would be welcome.
Thanks,
Sam

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[69charged]

Will follow along as I have all the same questions!!

 

[hjdca]

I do not know about Metalcloak lift, but, having a Gladiator since late 2019, and having done a lot of 4wheeling including 5 badge of honor trails, I would hands down only go with the 3.5" lift with 37 inch tires. The Gladiator needs that lift with 37s on the tough trails. The Wranglers can get away with 2.5 inch lifts on the tough trails, but, because of the length, the Gladiator needs the 3.5 inch lift. Remember, if you are planning to add a winch or have gear in your bed, you will lose some height with any lift. The Gladiator's length and design are such that it can handle that lift and tires. Adjustments for Castor and pinion angle just need to be more precise. I did change the front drive shaft - because of the large diameter, the stock front drive shaft may rub the support at the transfer case connection during full articulation -- but, you can also change that later if you do not plan to do full articulation 4wheeling. There are plenty of guys out there that have a 3.5 inch lift and have not changed their front driveshaft yet. You also need to plan funds for new diff. gears for those 37 inch tires.... either 4:88s or 5:13s - depending whether you live on flat land, mountains, or tow.

Note: I have other Metalcloak parts on my rig, and I consider them a top notch company with great quality, so, you should be getting a quality kit from them. If you want, You can check my build link in my signature to see how I built my Rig during Covid.

 

[whysoserious]

I have:
'21 Mojave w/MC GC 3.5". Sprung weight includes the following add-ons: Rear Icon steel bumper, front Arcus bumper (looks like we have the same but mine is without the stinger/hoop), Warn 12k synthetic, Rock Slide Engineering steps. My wheels are 17x8 with +30mm offset. No outboard MC shock mounts with 37" MTs has no rubbing. It rides very well, at least as well as stock and I'm not bottoming out at speed on my jounce bumpers. I am also running stock shocks with MC extensions. I'll keep these shocks on until they crap out or Metal Cloak finds it in their hearts to comp me a set of RockSport Black resi shocks..

Lift went on about 2000 mile ago. Right after install, it sat at 4.25" at the highest point on the roof line. It has now settled to 4". I have about 1" rake which is perfect for me.

The stock front driveshaft will be very tight with the 3.5" springs. Mine was very close without flexing, but usable on-road. Any moderate drooping will definitely cause contact with the boot and eventual failure, IMO. Consider either the Teraflex high lift Rzeppa kit (no opinion on it) or save for a complete replacement.

By adjustable JKS links, do you mean control arms? If so, they should get you back in to spec, post lift.

I have no info to impart on airbags.

Shortly after lift...

 

[samw5]

control arms? If so, they should get you back in to spec, post lift.

sorry no just the end links... The order from MC just has the front uppers which I'm told should be enough to get caster corrected...
Driveshaft is definitely a bit of a worry but like I said would be first on the list.

Haven't been able to find too many 2.5 photos to compare unfortunately which is why I keep going back and forth.

Was gonna got for the Mopar lift and add a front trackbar but since MC was so close price-wise I figured I couldn't justify not spending a little more to get the ride base.

 

[whysoserious]

sorry no just the end links... The order from MC just has the front uppers which I'm told should be enough to get caster corrected...
Driveshaft is definitely a bit of a worry but like I said would be first on the list.

Haven't been able to find too many 2.5 photos to compare unfortunately which is why I keep going back and forth.

Was gonna got for the Mopar lift and add a front trackbar but since MC was so close price-wise I figured I couldn't justify not spending a little more to get the ride base.

Have you looked here for photos?

Jeep Gladiator | Custom Offsets (customwheeloffset.com)

 

[samw5]

Good side... I just checked it... there is 1!

https://www.customwheeloffset.com/w...sion-lift-25in-bfgoodrich-mud-terrain-t-a-km3

I suppose that would work. Still not 100% sure whether I should just eat it and go 3.5 without having the full GC control arm set.

 

[Okie Gladiator]

I went 3.5 MC Dual Rate and I can tell you this thing is dialed in perfectly. Metalcloak has their stuff together for sure. I went from crawling with sway disconnected, axles locked, tires aired down - to running 80 mph on the Turnpike 10 minutes later. It ran better at 80 mph than it did stock from the factory at 80 mph. In regards to offroad performance it was awesome stock but there really is no comparison now. I had to work hard to even get into the next rate of those coils and it takes everything I throw at it off road, rocks, mud, sand, doesn't matter. Be sure to get re-torque after a few hundred miles following install - I suggest a check at least even if everything is still feeling/sounding pretty good.

So dual rate comes with everything you need to get it dialed in good. I struggled with the exact same question about 2.5 or 3.5 and decided to just go 3.5...its worth not wondering and wishing you had. I did get their front drive shaft with it only because I knew I was going to be flexing it pretty good and didn't want to chance the break on the trail but I have seen folks talk about getting away with not changing that for a while if you don't really plan to offroad it/flex it real hard.

You will maintain some of the rake in the truck. It does not level the truck. How you gear up and outfit the truck may change that look some but the lift will maintain rake.

I did do rocksport reds - cause why not at that price and how long they travel. They are great on the road, awesome when crawling, and I found them to be fine on cobblestone cause I ain't running high speed on that anyways. I did their steering stabilizer as well. I'm running 35's at the moment. Still about 3 inches clearance with garage door. I'll try and post some pics. Hope this is helpful.

 

[samw5]

Glad to hear that might actually work with stock CAs (outside of the front uppers that would get replaced).

Now looking at your photos which are awesome BTW, 35s look puny... Not sure 37s would look that much bigger
I'm sure functionality is top notch just not sure I need that much clearance.

Wouldn't the droop be the same technically with the 2.5? 3.5 would just provide an extra inch of ground clearance?

 

[JT1]

I went 3.5 MC Dual Rate and I can tell you this thing is dialed in perfectly. Metalcloak has their stuff together for sure. I went from crawling with sway disconnected, axles locked, tires aired down - to running 80 mph on the Turnpike 10 minutes later. It ran better at 80 mph than it did stock from the factory at 80 mph. In regards to offroad performance it was awesome stock but there really is no comparison now. I had to work hard to even get into the next rate of those coils and it takes everything I throw at it off road, rocks, mud, sand, doesn't matter. Be sure to get re-torque after a few hundred miles following install - I suggest a check at least even if everything is still feeling/sounding pretty good.

So dual rate comes with everything you need to get it dialed in good. I struggled with the exact same question about 2.5 or 3.5 and decided to just go 3.5...its worth not wondering and wishing you had. I did get their front drive shaft with it only because I knew I was going to be flexing it pretty good and didn't want to chance the break on the trail but I have seen folks talk about getting away with not changing that for a while if you don't really plan to offroad it/flex it real hard.

You will maintain some of the rake in the truck. It does not level the truck. How you gear up and outfit the truck may change that look some but the lift will maintain rake.

I did do rocksport reds - cause why not at that price and how long they travel. They are great on the road, awesome when crawling, and I found them to be fine on cobblestone cause I ain't running high speed on that anyways. I did their steering stabilizer as well. I'm running 35's at the moment. Still about 3 inches clearance with garage door. I'll try and post some pics. Hope this is helpful.

Disney? Spent quite a few sweltering afternoons out there in the trees.

 

[DailyMoparGuy]

I worry about going with the 3.5” over the 2.5” as well. I only see myself going up to 37s for the foreseeable future, and I’m scared they’ll look small. Pictures online sometimes look awesome with 37s and sometimes meh, too much wheel gap.

That being said, I’m leaning 3.5” springs

 

[outdoor.adventures]

I initially did a Clayton 3.5" lift, which is actually 4.5" in the front. That's more than the MC 3.5" in the front, although I don't know the true measurement of the MC. Either way, my point will remain the same:

The angle of the stock front driveshaft was fairly steep after installing the lift. I ran some pretty tough trails over 8 months before the rubber driveshaft joint cover split and was no longer functional, at which point I replaced the driveshaft with a 1350 Adams.

I am actually quite pleased that the OEM driveshaft lasted that long and I'd take the same route again - delay buying a replacement until I need it. I recommend the same for you if you choose to go back to the 3.5".

I also echo that 3.5" is better on the Gladiator.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Glad to hear that might actually work with stock CAs (outside of the front uppers that would get replaced).

Now looking at your photos which are awesome BTW, 35s look puny... Not sure 37s would look that much bigger
I'm sure functionality is top notch just not sure I need that much clearance.

Wouldn't the droop be the same technically with the 2.5? 3.5 would just provide an extra inch of ground clearance?

You should get a little more droop out of the 3.5" due to the longer free length of the coils and the ability to run longer shocks with the taller coils.

 

[samw5]

Right but the shocks are the same between the 2 setup which is why I figured it wouldn't really make that much of a difference.

I think either way I should be OK and got the answers that I wanted to hear (that it's essentially gonna work ok either way).

I also think I know the next steps...
Driveshaft, gear then the remaining CAs....

Probably will need a MORE step on my side (wife already has one) as it might be a stretch getting in

 

[Okie Gladiator]

Glad to hear that might actually work with stock CAs (outside of the front uppers that would get replaced).

Now looking at your photos which are awesome BTW, 35s look puny... Not sure 37s would look that much bigger
I'm sure functionality is top notch just not sure I need that much clearance.

Wouldn't the droop be the same technically with the 2.5? 3.5 would just provide an extra inch of ground clearance?

The 3.5 will let you run 40’s if ya wanted. If you are never going over 37’s you’ll be fine with the 2.5 and you’ll probably have all you need when you wheel it.

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