Metalcloak lift

[DeezJT]

Gotta represent MC/PS

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[techteacher]

Side by side of Mopar 2" Lift Rear Springs and the MC 3.5" True Dual Rate.

 

[DeezJT]

The MC 3.5 is on par with the Mopar 2” lift in terms of lift height.

 

[DeezJT]

@iSED8 probably in two to 3 weeks from now. Gonna stretch the legs at my local proving grounds. Deep ruts only but once I get sliders, I’ll play in the rocks.
-Sliders, MC tie rod, MC Tie Rod/Drag Link,
Fender cut/slim led, and perhaps MC under armor should be my next phase.

@techteacher my installer (RockBottomOffroad) preferred to have it staggered and not centered so when flexed, it will contact the bumpstops. He has the gamechanger setup.

 

[rowbarre]

How many bumpstop pucks are you guys running up front? I ripped a hole in the inside sidewall of my front passenger tire over the weekend. The sway bar end link got into the tire when it was fully stuffed and turned full lock to driver.


I'm thinking it's because I'm only running one puck up front. You can see where it has been rubbing and where the boot ripped when the tire blew in the pic below.

 

[DeezJT]

@rowbarre before I installed the bumpstops, I called Metalcloak and talked to Will. For my goals (37’s and future Rubi flares), he suggested 3 up front and 2 in the rear and that’s exactly what I did.

 

[rowbarre]

@rowbarre before I installed the bumpstops, I called Metalcloak and talked to Will. For my goals (37’s and future Rubi flares), he suggested 3 up front and 2 in the rear and that’s exactly what I did.

Good to know, thanks for the info. I barely had any rubbing on the fenders with the stock Rubicon suspension and 37x12.50r17 KO2s so I only went with an inch on both ends. Apparently that wasn't enough.

 

[DeezJT]

I noticed after scrolling through uconnect menus that my pitch is off 5 degrees and roll is 1 degree on leveled ground. Anyone know the fix for this?

 

[Reasons]

Is the driveshaft offered by Metalcloak with the 3.5 lift necessary?

 

[rowbarre]

Is the driveshaft offered by Metalcloak with the 3.5 lift necessary?

If you never go offroad you might get by with the stock driveshaft. I wouldn't recommend it though, the joint at the transfer case can't handle the amount of droop the Metalcloak kits have. I tore the boot on the stock driveshaft just installing the lift kit with the driveshaft still bolted up. I ordered the 1350 Adams driveshaft shortly after.

 

[Reasons]

If you never go offroad you might get by with the stock driveshaft. I wouldn't recommend it though, the joint at the transfer case can't handle the amount of droop the Metalcloak kits have. I tore the boot on the stock driveshaft just installing the lift kit with the driveshaft still bolted up. I ordered the 1350 Adams driveshaft shortly after.

Metalcloak has the 1310 driveshaft as an option. Will that suffice for 37s on a JTR? I'm sure it would since it is being offered with the kit. Just making sure before I pull the trigger.

Edit: ... and yes, I do offroad but no hard-core rock crawling (i.e. -Rubicon trail)

 

[rowbarre]

Metalcloak has the 1310 driveshaft as an option. Will that suffice for 37s on a JTR? I'm sure it would since it is being offered with the kit. Just making sure before I pull the trigger.

I asked and Metalcloak said 1310 and 37s would be okay. But one of their guys has a JTR on 38s and went 1350 so I decided to do the same.

 

[techteacher]

I asked and Metalcloak said 1310 and 37s would be okay. But one of their guys has a JTR on 38s and went 1350 so I decided to do the same.

The shop I am working with sent me this when I asked about 1350 vs 1310. FWIW.

"The 1350 is a true one ton u joint. The only limitation that it has is less flex and you feel more vibration from it since we can’t get the pinion angle perfectly straight. The 1310 is more forgiving in that regard. "

 

[rowbarre]

The shop I am working with sent me this when I asked about 1350 vs 1310. FWIW.

"The 1350 is a true one ton u joint. The only limitation that it has is less flex and you feel more vibration from it since we can’t get the pinion angle perfectly straight. The 1310 is more forgiving in that regard. "

That's a good point. I'm planning on keeping the CAD up front which makes the angles and vibrations less of a concern.

 

[Reasons]

The shop I am working with sent me this when I asked about 1350 vs 1310. FWIW.

"The 1350 is a true one ton u joint. The only limitation that it has is less flex and you feel more vibration from it since we can’t get the pinion angle perfectly straight. The 1310 is more forgiving in that regard. "

Thanks for the info. I think I will just stick with what Metal Cloak recommends and go with their optioned 1310 driveshaft. Just waiting on their Black Friday sale now.

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