Minimal to no lift with high weight capacity? Does it exist? What else to consider?

[JTdiRtyD]

I've been struggling to find that ideal suspension setup. For reference, I have a Rubi diesel.

I currently have AEV Dualsport RT with HD springs, and I'm sitting at roughly 3 inches of lift. I have around 500lbs of constant weight in the bed, a little more when loaded for trips, and occasionally tow a trailer that adds another 300-ish lbs tongue weight. So, at times, I'm right around that GVWR number. The AEV springs handle everything like a champ, but I can no longer fit in my garage, and living in MN I NEED to park in the garage in the winter. Currently on 35s and my RTT is about 1 inch too high to fit in the garage. I plan to upsize to 37s, so to be safe I need to lose about 3 inches of height to safely fit in the garage. I was originally going to shorten the height of my cap in order to clear the garage door, but then I lose interior storage height, and since I already have a half height cap and I'm already working with limited storage space I'd rather not take even more away.

So my thought is, if I can find high capacity springs that keep a stock Rubicon ride height, I can make up those 3 inches by not being lifted. I can then remove the fender trim to gain some of that fender to tire clearance back. Only thing is, I can't seem to find "HD" springs at a factory ride height, at least not at ratings like the AEV HD springs.

I'm also unsure if I'll run into other issues like suspension/tire clearance when off road. I don't chase after crazy obstacles to where I NEED a ton of travel, but we do aim for remote areas and you never truly know what condition the trails are in.

Do I have any options going this route? Is it even viable? Note I don't want to run helper bags.

If stock height high capacity springs aren't the best option, then I'll proceed with my original plan to keep the AEV springs/lift and reduce the height of my cap. Being lifted comes with other advantages (higher water crossings, better obstacle/trail view sitting up higher, etc.)

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[Bandit’s Lair]

Well for clearance you can run some high clearance fenders to get the articulation. That will do what you need for the 37” tires I think. I haven’t seen a high capacity spring for stock height though. Maybe reach out to some companies like Currie, Rock Jock to see if they have options or can come up with options for what you’re looking for.
Other than that I’d say get your garage door lifted. It is possible but cost comparison between a higher garage door/opening/labor and a new custom lift kit to meet your needs will be needed.

 

[JTdiRtyD]

Well for clearance you can run some high clearance fenders to get the articulation. That will do what you need for the 37” tires I think. I haven’t seen a high capacity spring for stock height though. Maybe reach out to some companies like Currie, Rock Jock to see if they have options or can come up with options for what you’re looking for.
Other than that I’d say get your garage door lifted. It is possible but cost comparison between a higher garage door/opening/labor and a new custom lift kit to meet your needs will be needed.

I have thought about a higher garage door. Not only would it benefit me, but could benefit future home owners if they have a full sized truck. It's a far more expensive option though.

 

[MPMB]

So fully loaded, what's your "lift" come out to? Or are you at 3" fully loaded?

I would go with a HD 2" or HD 2.5" rear spring setup first and see what that nets you. Rear springs are relatively inexpensive to test out. ICON has a 1.5" rear spring set for <$300.

For reference:
I have the ICON 2.5" Stage 3 kit that netted me about 3". When I had the bed rack and Tepui RTT on it, with gear in the bed, it rode very well. Now that the tent is on the trailer and I took the rack off (for doing truck stuff), the closer return to stock weight makes the JT ride more like a 3/4 ton truck.

Re: Garage door clearance - is it the door itself or the frame? Sometimes you can push the door up further and gain another inch or two of clearance from the actual door frame. I don't mean to brag, but that's what I love about our new house - the garage has almost 11' interior ceilings, 8' tall garage doors, and the 3rd bay garage door is 9' wide. And I came from a 19'x20' garage with a 16'x7' garage, so I'm beyond happy.

 

[JTdiRtyD]

So fully loaded, what's your "lift" come out to? Or are you at 3" fully loaded?

I would go with a HD 2" or HD 2.5" rear spring setup first and see what that nets you. Rear springs are relatively inexpensive to test out. ICON has a 1.5" rear spring set for <$300.

For reference:
I have the ICON 2.5" Stage 3 kit that netted me about 3". When I had the bed rack and Tepui RTT on it, with gear in the bed, it rode very well. Now that the tent is on the trailer and I took the rack off (for doing truck stuff), the closer return to stock weight makes the JT ride more like a 3/4 ton truck.

Re: Garage door clearance - is it the door itself or the frame? Sometimes you can push the door up further and gain another inch or two of clearance from the actual door frame. I don't mean to brag, but that's what I love about our new house - the garage has almost 11' interior ceilings, 8' tall garage doors, and the 3rd bay garage door is 9' wide. And I came from a 19'x20' garage with a 16'x7' garage, so I'm beyond happy.

I'm at 3 inches loaded. It's advertised as a 3.5in spring.

Also its the door frame. I do have the door set to go up higher than the frame. I have 9ft ceilings and a 7ft door right now, and an 8ft door with wall mounted opener should fit according to the manual. It honestly wouldn't be terribly difficult to install a larger door and could do it myself, but the door alone is 3 grand.

 

[MPMB]

And the new door opening header, which aren't cheap. A little trim and paint and you're ready for the new door. Gotta be less than $10k, right? You still have two kidneys?

If I had a nice $ windfall, I'd change up my 3rd bay to have a door that opens with a wall mount and the rails go up to the ceiling, instead of above the door opening. Then I could have a lift in that bay without issues. The only issue is my 3rd bay is 18' deep. Not much wiggle room for the JT in that bay.

 

[Stan H]

And the new door opening header, which aren't cheap. A little trim and paint and you're ready for the new door. Gotta be less than $10k, right? You still have two kidneys?

If I had a nice $ windfall, I'd change up my 3rd bay to have a door that opens with a wall mount and the rails go up to the ceiling, instead of above the door opening. Then I could have a lift in that bay without issues. The only issue is my 3rd bay is 18' deep. Not much wiggle room for the JT in that bay.

"If" I hit a windfall , I would tear the whole mess down and start over.
I always wanted 15 to 20 foot ceilings . That would give room for a lift and allow me plenty of space for wall storage .

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

You ain’t lying on the garage door price. Thought about upgrading my single door for a nice insulated one because it’s probably 20 yrs old and it’s time. Once I saw the prices I just put some foam insulation sheets in there taped it up and called it a day. Pic for age reference:

 

[Stan H]

Yeah I just have them manual door instead of powered . So the garage door opener on the gladiator has never been used . Probably wouldnt know what to don't I tried . Aint never had a powered garage door.

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