Mopar Halogen Fog Lights to Mopar LED Fog Lights

[Blkout50]

Can anyone confirm if turning the LED’s on prior to programming (still set to halogen) can fry the LED’s??

DO NOT PLUG IN LED FOG LIGHTS PRIOR TO PROGRAMMING CHANGES!!!

I can confirm, mine are burned out. Lesson learned!!

I plugged mine into my buddies Gladiator with factory LED’s, his work, mine do not.

I bought some brackets and installed my original halogen fog lights.

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[pizzapirate]

DO NOT PLUG IN LED FOG LIGHTS PRIOR TO PROGRAMMING CHANGES!!!

I can confirm, mine are burned out. Lesson learned!!

I plugged mine into my buddies Gladiator with factory LED’s, his work, mine do not.

I bought some brackets and installed my original halogen fog lights.

BINGO - I ordered some Diode Dynamics SS3 Led Fog-lights for my Gladiator and they both fired right up. The Mopar LED Fogs would not power on after swapping them around etc. I cannot see an actual burn spot on the Mopar LED diode - but I'm 99% sure this is what happened.

IF UPGRADING TO LED FOG-LIGHTS, BE SURE TO SWITCH GLADIATOR COMPUTER TO LED FOGS. THE HALOGEN SETTING WILL CAUSE THE MOPAR LED'S TO BURN OUT.

This would be a good warning to put in the instructions lol.

 

[CJXJJT]

Same song here, the parts guy told me up front.
"Oh yea I switched to led's, they worked with no problems"
So I mounted up the bumper, and winch. Turned on the fogs, they flickered twice and haven't worked since. Jscan and the works.
Later the parts guy fessed up to using a Tazer....
Kind of pisses me off.
What other options do we have that fit the Mopar bumper??

 

[ImThe0ne]

BINGO - I ordered some Diode Dynamics SS3 Led Fog-lights for my Gladiator and they both fired right up. The Mopar LED Fogs would not power on after swapping them around etc. I cannot see an actual burn spot on the Mopar LED diode - but I'm 99% sure this is what happened.

IF UPGRADING TO LED FOG-LIGHTS, BE SURE TO SWITCH GLADIATOR COMPUTER TO LED FOGS. THE HALOGEN SETTING WILL CAUSE THE MOPAR LED'S TO BURN OUT.

This would be a good warning to put in the instructions lol.

Good to know, I have had Mopar LEDS w/ JScan that i hadn't been able to get to work either, but also plugged them in prior to programming. RIP.

I ended up going with Oracle Performance fogs anyways, worked perfectly from the beginning. Love the OE Leds, but its way too damn complicated at this point.

 

[SigArmorer]

Ok so I ordered a new Mopar LED for the right front. Programmed for LED with a Tazer; and it appears the lights are now working. I’m not sure why only one fog light would have burned out; maybe the right front was defective from factory. The new light (mopar 6830 4048 AF-001) is slightly different from the one that it replaced. The original fog lamp had a blue attachment on the rear labeled “NITTO DENKO”; and I’m not certain what that is; the replacement does not have this. Can anyone illuminate me (pun intended)?

 

[TimC]

Moisture vent?

 

[mdyucca]

I recently purchased the Mopar Rubicon Steel Bumper to replace the plastic bumper on my 2020 Gladiator Rubicon. It did not originally come with LED package - but I have since upgraded the Headlights, DRL, and Taillights to Mopar LED. Previously I had the dealer flash my Gladiator for $145 to get all of the lights working properly. Here I am a year later switching to the Mopar Steel Bumper and the included Mopar LED Fog lights are not working...

Rather than feel like a sucker and pay another $145 to the dealer to activate my Mopar LED Fog lights... I tried using the OBD JScan App, + VEEPEAK OBD2 Scan Tool, + OBD2 Cable Adaptor to change the Fog Light Settings myself on the JScan app. Unfortunately, I am not having any success with this method. I have also tried flashing all computer settings and turning the Fog Lights from Halogen to LED several times with no success. I have also checked the physical connections to the lights as well as the fuses.

As much as I don't want to tuck my tail and go back to the dealer for another $145 (money better invested on a nice steak dinner and bottle of wine) - does anybody have any ideas? Am I overlooking something?

My theory is the JScan app isn't working. The LED Fogs initially turned on and flickered - prior to flashing the computer. Now I am getting nothing. Please help!

Do the Mopar LED fogs use the same connector as the original halogens?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Please explain how 12v halogen power will burn out 12v LED lights..........
Both are 12 volt lights, are they not?
12 volts to the halogen lights - 12 volts to the LED lights - how do they burn out?

 

[Living the dream]

I recently purchased the Mopar Rubicon Steel Bumper to replace the plastic bumper on my 2020 Gladiator Rubicon. It did not originally come with LED package - but I have since upgraded the Headlights, DRL, and Taillights to Mopar LED. Previously I had the dealer flash my Gladiator for $145 to get all of the lights working properly. Here I am a year later switching to the Mopar Steel Bumper and the included Mopar LED Fog lights are not working...

Rather than feel like a sucker and pay another $145 to the dealer to activate my Mopar LED Fog lights... I tried using the OBD JScan App, + VEEPEAK OBD2 Scan Tool, + OBD2 Cable Adaptor to change the Fog Light Settings myself on the JScan app. Unfortunately, I am not having any success with this method. I have also tried flashing all computer settings and turning the Fog Lights from Halogen to LED several times with no success. I have also checked the physical connections to the lights as well as the fuses.

As much as I don't want to tuck my tail and go back to the dealer for another $145 (money better invested on a nice steak dinner and bottle of wine) - does anybody have any ideas? Am I overlooking something?

My theory is the JScan app isn't working. The LED Fogs initially turned on and flickered - prior to flashing the computer. Now I am getting nothing. Please help!

What are the part numbers and pricing for MOPAR LED headlight upgrades? Thank you

 

[SigArmorer]

Do the Mopar LED fogs use the same connector as the original halogens?

Yes.

 

[ecidiego]

Please explain how 12v halogen power will burn out 12v LED lights..........
Both are 12 volt lights, are they not?
12 volts to the halogen lights - 12 volts to the LED lights - how do they burn out?

I am thinking perhaps when you make the change to LED, the controller increases the resistance of the circuit in the BCM which would lower the current? Perhaps the halogens require a higher current.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I am thinking perhaps when you make the change to LED, the controller increases the resistance of the circuit in the BCM which would lower the current? Perhaps the halogens require a higher current.

Current is determined by the bulb. They could supply 100 amps, the LEDs will only pass what they will pass based on the voltage and resistance of the LED itself.
I can connect a LED fog lamp directly to a fully charged battery........... the LED is fine because the current flow is determined by the LED. In fact I tested my new fog lamps by doing exactly that - connecting them directly to a battery in my shop (which had a charger on it at the time so was actually running about 14 volts or so)
"Current draw" is determined by the resistance of the item in the circuit (assuming a constant voltage) If a halogen requires more current, it will draw or flow more current. The LED requiring less will pull less without any outside help.

 

[cj8scrambler]

Current is determined by the bulb. They could supply 100 amps, the LEDs will only pass what they will pass based on the voltage and resistance of the LED itself.
I can connect a LED fog lamp directly to a fully charged battery........... the LED is fine because the current flow is determined by the LED. In fact I tested my new fog lamps by doing exactly that - connecting them directly to a battery in my shop (which had a charger on it at the time so was actually running about 14 volts or so)
"Current draw" is determined by the resistance of the item in the circuit (assuming a constant voltage) If a halogen requires more current, it will draw or flow more current. The LED requiring less will pull less without any outside help.

I agree that a halogen will consume only consume the current it needs (it's a resistive device), but that's not true for a LED by itself. It's a diode whose ideal model is 0 ohms internal resistance. By itself it will always try to consume infinite current and burn up in the process. An LED always requires a current limiting device to control its currnt/brigthness. The light assembly may contain a series resistor to set the current limit. If that's the case and the resistor was calculated for a 12V supply, then applying any 12V source is safe. However if the light assembly does not have a series resistor and assumes that the power source is current limited, then only a current limited 12V supply is safe to connect.

Does anyone know why the LED type has to be set on the ECU? It's obviously doing something. I thought maybe it was to change the active pins on the connector. But if the pinout is the same between halogen and LED lights, then it may be setting a current limit in LED mode. If that's the case then you definitely would need to set the lights to LED mode before connecting them.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I agree that a halogen will consume only consume the current it needs (it's a resistive device), but that's not true for a LED by itself. It's a diode whose ideal model is 0 ohms internal resistance. By itself it will always try to consume infinite current and burn up in the process. An LED always requires a current limiting device to control its currnt/brigthness. The light assembly may contain a series resistor to set the current limit. If that's the case and the resistor was calculated for a 12V supply, then applying any 12V source is safe. However if the light assembly does not have a series resistor and assumes that the power source is current limited, then only a current limited 12V supply is safe to connect.

Does anyone know why the LED type has to be set on the ECU? It's obviously doing something. I thought maybe it was to change the active pins on the connector. But if the pinout is the same between halogen and LED lights, then it may be setting a current limit in LED mode. If that's the case then you definitely would need to set the lights to LED mode before connecting them.

Yes for bare-bones diodes and LEDs but I would hope that anyone selling lights for conversion have something built in. I've converted a number of other vehicles to LED - markers, tail/brake/turn and so on, and they all have the circuits in them to power the LED based on raw "12 volt" (which is almost always 13+ when running).
I checked the LED fogs I have on a battery - no problem.

It would indeed be nice to know for sure - for a fact - just what that setting does aside from setting things up for detection of a bad/faulty bulb in a given location.
Does it limit current?

Further - do the FOG lights sold as after-market replacements or conversion not have the components inside to limit current?? IMO it's rather silly if not as they have to assume people will simply plug them in! Grab a pair of LED fog lights off the shelf, or order a pair, install, plug in - how many honestly would go in and change any setting or even know to? (unless there's a big fat warning on the box?! WARNING, do not use these to replace HALOGEN lights without programming first!)

 

[cj8scrambler]

Yes for bare-bones diodes and LEDs but I would hope that anyone selling lights for conversion have something built in. I've converted a number of other vehicles to LED - markers, tail/brake/turn and so on, and they all have the circuits in them to power the LED based on raw "12 volt" (which is almost always 13+ when running).
I checked the LED fogs I have on a battery - no problem.

It would indeed be nice to know for sure - for a fact - just what that setting does aside from setting things up for detection of a bad/faulty bulb in a given location.
Does it limit current?

Further - do the FOG lights sold as after-market replacements or conversion not have the components inside to limit current?? IMO it's rather silly if not as they have to assume people will simply plug them in! Grab a pair of LED fog lights off the shelf, or order a pair, install, plug in - how many honestly would go in and change any setting or even know to? (unless there's a big fat warning on the box?! WARNING, do not use these to replace HALOGEN lights without programming first!)

Yea I agree. I would have assumed any LED based assembly would have the controller inside and would behave just like a traditional bulb. But this thread has made me question that.

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