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Mopar lift regrets

Desert Outlaw

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Sidewall will only show Max PSI which is always too high.
On the Patagonias - as a 'crown' tire, your street pressure is actually the oem psi, surprisingly. Otherwise, you would set your tire pressure in accordance to the tire chalk test. Larger tires adjusting psi per 'Boyles law'. Look it up.
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redrider

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On the Patagonias - as a 'crown' tire, your street pressure is actually the oem psi, surprisingly. Otherwise, you would set your tire pressure in accordance to the tire chalk test. Larger tires adjusting psi per 'Boyles law'. Look it up.
Now there you go, blinding them with science.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Now there you go, blinding them with science.


On the Patagonias - as a 'crown' tire, your street pressure is actually the oem psi, surprisingly. Otherwise, you would set your tire pressure in accordance to the tire chalk test. Larger tires adjusting psi per 'Boyles law'. Look it up.
here's the lowdown:
Your truck is supported by AIR PRESSURE, not the tires.
PSI - Pounds/Square Inch (pounds per square inch - it's a formula)

That pressure is working on the tire's footprint to hold your truck up.
If you have 32 square inches of tire on the pavement AT EACH CORNER and 38 psi, you have 32 x 38 = 1216 - pressure in PSI working on an area measured in square inches.

Since there are 32 square inches against the pavement on each corner that's 1216 pounds each tire is supporting - times 4 tires means your truck must weigh about 4800 pounds.
(you can actually weigh your truck this way)

If you put wider tires on the same truck, there's more square inches on the pavement, you need less pressure to support the truck. That air pressure will be using more square inches to hold the truck up.
The more footprint, the more rubber sitting flat on the road, the less pressure it takes to support that truck.

With my stock Overland tires I was running 38 psi and that was just about perfect for the weight of my truck. But with the Rubicon A/T tires on it, since they are wider tires, I run a reduced pressure to support the same truck.
It's pretty much hydraulics, really. Force working on an area. More area needs less force to do the same work. (not scientifically accurately said - but it fits)
 

AEsco48

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Can some one provide a link to this youtube review please?
 

Dan_Ballard_Offroad

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So I had the Mopar kit (+3/4 spacers) for quite a while before going to the Clayton 3.5 premium with the Falcon SP2 3.3s. So of course not a fair comparison at all and way more expensive, but I hated the Mopar kit. We are off road literally all the time (normally every other day) and could not live with it. I felt like I had to hold on and just slowly ease over bigger bumps to not get thrown around. The new kit is a different world.

I would seriously consider going with a basic Clayton, Metalcloak, RK (or whatever) kit or just pieces, and start building it up as you can. It cost me a lot more getting the Mopar and then having to change it up so fast.

You will be fine with the stock front driveshaft with a 2.5 Clayton overland or MC 3.5 I think.. Mine was fine with Mopar kit and spacers. With the Clayton and spacers it melted through the rubber boot and was rubbing pretty bad. But tons of flex on the premium 3.5 kit and the Falcons have a lot of extension... Went Adams 1350 front and rear and no issues now.
 

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warmck

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I impulsively pulled the trigger and. Bought the lift kit. Well not exactly impulsively I researched the heck out of it. Still am hence regrets. What I am seeing is that the kit is too stiff shock wise the control arms seem pretty flimsy. And no adjustable trac bar. Whic I was prepared to add. So I am thinking of not having the dealer install it. My goal is. What full kits are out there that are <2000 and complete. And 2.5 inches or less. I do not want to replace the front drive shaft or drill holes etc

So this kit. Ideally would be. 2 to 2.5 inches. Have single rate springs. Reasonably soft or adjustable shocks. Not a cheap alternative Contain front and rear adjustable trac bars and. Adjustable lower control arms.?
I bought mine with a dealer had a cutom shop install a Mopar lift and Falcon shocks among other mods. I was really not impressed. with most of the work the custom shop had done. The control arms were under such tension when we released them that it was probably a dangerous setup. I kept the Falcon shocks and replaced everything else with a EVO Mfg Jeep JT Gladiator 2.5" Enforcer Stage 2 PLUS kit. Adjustable stabilizers are a great add! I'm now a happy camper.
 

WaterDR

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It’s a great lift kit that includes everything anyone should really need who is not planning on daily trips to the Rubicon Trail. It’s also a great way to spend $2300 or so and ensure you are covered under warranty. It’s a mild, factory application that jeep SHOULD include as a factory option.

However, there are much better options .
 

ShadowsPapa

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It’s a great lift kit that includes everything anyone should really need who is not planning on daily trips to the Rubicon Trail. It’s also a great way to spend $2300 or so and ensure you are covered under warranty. It’s a mild, factory application that jeep SHOULD include as a factory option.

However, there are much better options .
You are rightfully suggesting "it depends" - on your frequency of off-road use, your type of off-road use, and the ruggedness of the trails you take.
Some, if not many, will be happy with one while the most abusive of 'em will not be.
Does that sound about right? ;-)
 

Caraholic

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Of interest to you maybe this guy-
He did have a gladiator and sold it went back to wrangler but he does offer interesting commentary and tested several modifications side to side on multiple Jeep simultaneously...
Edit : these were solely lift kits being compared
 

j.o.y.ride

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re: tire pressures. All depends on your tire. The chalk test on my 35's really liked 27 but that was a bit too soft for daily driving, so I aim for a warm temp of 28-29. The pita days are when it's cold in the AM, like 45, and then I drive someplace that's 90+. Then by the time the pressure is at 31-32 it's overinflated and feels like it's on skates.
 

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Strider62

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I had the dealer install the Mopar lift on my Overland (along with 37s) before I ever saw the truck - ordered it all at the same time. I’ll admit two important factors in that decision:
1) I was new to the whole Jeep off-road thing and totally ignorant about lift kits, and
2) The dealer told me that a Mopar lift wouldn’t void my warranty

I’ve had the truck for over a year now (27,600 miles), and while I don’t do a lot of off-roading I do enjoy hitting the trails. In addition to a few Jeep Badge of Honor trails in VA and PA, my wife and I drove it from VA to CO, through the Alpine Loop (Engineer Pass, Imogene Pass, Ophir Pass) and all the way up into ND before heading back to VA. True, none of that was particularly technical, but there hasn’t been a single time where I felt the truck wasn’t going to be able to do what I was contemplating asking it to.

I don’t have any previous experience with other lifted suspensions to compare against, but I can say my wife and I have both remarked on how comfortable the ride is - both on the trail and on the highway. The only time it becomes a problem is when the dealership pumps my tires up to 40 psi when I get an oil change and tire rotationand it feels like the truck is wearing toe-shoes instead of M/Ts. (I did the “chalk test” and my tires are correct at about 31 psi)

The only “complaint” I have is that the suspension creaks a bit when I let off the brake and press the accelerator. I’m guessing that might be wear in the bushings...

All in all, and from a novice point of view, I have no problem whatsoever with the Mopar lift. Works great for my skill level and the places I have been so far with my truck.

I’ll probably never be a hard core rock crawler (at least not with a $60k truck!), but I probably will eventually upgrade my suspension now that my warranty has expired ... just because I can!
 

hobbsserv

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I went with the Tera Flex Alpine CT2 with shocks was $2000 ++. But I am really happy that I spent a little extra and got everything in one kit to make it complete
 

Gnarly

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Basically over sprung under damped very rough ride. Thin walled control arms. He cut them in half. Showed a .09 wall thickness. And dented. Arms. Pretty disappointed
Having owned it for a year, I agree with the rough ride. It’s teeth chattering off road, even with 37’s on 17” wheels inflated to only 28lbs. Have to drop air to the teens to drI’ve on washboard. I regret buying it. Shocks are also weak, lots of roll with rear rockjocks. Spending the coin on Teraflex 3.5” and their falcon shocks. Hoping to be dialed in after that.
 

WaterDR

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You are rightfully suggesting "it depends" - on your frequency of off-road use, your type of off-road use, and the ruggedness of the trails you take.
Some, if not many, will be happy with one while the most abusive of 'em will not be.
Does that sound about right? ;-)
I would more honestly say this...

Stock Jeeps are very capable. But billions is spent on modifying them so owners can mostly “look” like they drive it on Mars.

the Mopar lift is a great way for an owner to look the part and yet keep their factory warranty while at the same time adding some additional trail capability.

But most of these lifts will never see a trail and 99% of the miles driven will be on pavement which means no matter what, road manners matter.
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