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More electrical gremlins.

ShadowsPapa

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I fold.
Mine is an antique 21.
Jeep Gladiator More electrical gremlins. 1752030940710-9g

The rest are Micronta of various ages (5 of those) - then the small oscilloscope and a larger engine scope from the 70s.
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ShadowsPapa

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For $60 or so bucks for a IBS sensor, I wonder if its worth the try to replace before heading to dealership? Looking it up on OEM Mopar parts and this is the part number they say

68289207AC

1752021341575-f7.jpg
That's the one. Matches the part number on mine.

Jeep Gladiator More electrical gremlins. 1752031145295-cl


Jeep Gladiator More electrical gremlins. 20220329_093924


Jeep Gladiator More electrical gremlins. 20220329_093938
 
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mtudb24

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That's the one. Matches the part number on mine.

1752031145295-cl.jpg


20220329_093924.jpg


20220329_093938.jpg
Thank you. Ordered one and will be here next week. This is such a frustrating gremlin to diagnose. Even after I had the electrical check test load of battery and test loading of alternator, the 20 minute drive home, the voltage never topped over 14.4V and was mainly in the 13.2V range and never set any DIC messages for any issues. In fact when I got home for shits and giggles, I hit the key fob to do a remote start, and it worked. That hasn't happened in the last 2 days. It always had the horn beep once and nothing. Nothing on the DIC said why remote start didn't function like low battery warning etc.
No codes no nothing.
 

Hootbro

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I fold.
Mine is an antique 21.
1752030940710-9g.jpg

The rest are Micronta of various ages (5 of those) - then the small oscilloscope and a larger engine scope from the 70s.
That series of FLUKE's were built like tanks. I had a FLUKE 23 green body one of the same series bought off the MATCO truck in 1992 that was my daily use for over 20+ years when I was a flight line Avionics Tech. Only multi-meter that I actually wore out. Even the Cal-Cert techs called me asking about it because they had never seen one that will used. Sad day when it would no longer hold calibration and was economically unfeasible to repair.
 
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mtudb24

mtudb24

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I Honestly quit. Time to start a new project.

Went out to the truck today, remote start worked, blower motor worked, headlights didn't flicker and the voltage never fell under 13.2V at idle to 14.2/3 while at 1000rpm or at 3000rpm and no warning lights on the dash. Its like nothing ever happened. WTF???? If your broke, stay broke so I can fix you vs trying to chase a Ghost.

For you Seinfeld fans, I'm just gonna drive it about 35 mins south to 8 mile and leave the keys in and walk away, so have at it!!!! At least you won't have the "Beast" smell to deal with 😎 :) 😎 :)

 

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Proximo

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From a tech document -

See the Open Circuit Voltage Table. This voltage reading will indicate the battery state of charge, but will not reveal its cranking capacity. If a battery has an open-circuit voltage reading of 12.4 volts or greater, it may be load tested to reveal its cranking capacity.

OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE TABLE
Open Circuit Voltage Charge Percentage
11.7 volts or less 0%
12.0 volts 25%
12.2 volts 50%
12.4 volts 75%
12.8 volts or more 100%
Thank you for the chart Bill. So, if my resting battery, with everything hooked to it and with the truck completely off, reads 12.75 on the posts, it's near 100% good???
 

ShadowsPapa

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Thank you for the chart Bill. So, if my resting battery, with everything hooked to it and with the truck completely off, reads 12.75 on the posts, it's near 100% good???
Yes - and keeping in mind that there's a small load on the batteries even with the truck off and your fob 10 miles away, if you read that, it's likely a bit higher with the cables disconnected.
I'd call that charged fully.
(12.6 volts might end up 12.65 or so with the cables disconnected due to the slight draw on the batteries, even off)
 

Proximo

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Yes - and keeping in mind that there's a small load on the batteries even with the truck off and your fob 10 miles away, if you read that, it's likely a bit higher with the cables disconnected.
I'd call that charged fully.
(12.6 volts might end up 12.65 or so with the cables disconnected due to the slight draw on the batteries, even off)
Thanks again. Tired of watching the dash board volts, while driving, bounce all over from 12.8 constant to 13.2 constant to 14.2 coasting to a stop. Guess I'm paranoid that replacing the green star bus didn't fix my problem. Waiting another week or so till I'm confident
 

RudeJeepin

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@ShadowsPapa
On the topic of electrical stuff, what do you use to clean electrical connections?
I noticed that my trailer plug is starting to show signs of corrosion. You know that greenish scuz on the terminals.
I used to have some stuff that was used to clean radiators before you soldered the brackets back on. Ran out and can't remember what it was, since I had put it in a smaller bottle with no label. That and the old timer at the parts store has retired. No one left knows what it was.
Being that you rebuild/recondition older electrical stuff, figured you were one to ask. Was going to DM you but figured others might benefit from the answer.
No pressure, haha.
Thanks
 

Blade1668

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I understand. ;)

20250708_203026.jpg
At least I don't feel so bad about all the grease guns I have now. :giggle:
I Honestly quit. Time to start a new project.

Went out to the truck today, remote start worked, blower motor worked, headlights didn't flicker and the voltage never fell under 13.2V at idle to 14.2/3 while at 1000rpm or at 3000rpm and no warning lights on the dash. Its like nothing ever happened. WTF???? If your broke, stay broke so I can fix you vs trying to chase a Ghost.

For you Seinfeld fans, I'm just gonna drive it about 35 mins south to 8 mile and leave the keys in and walk away, so have at it!!!! At least you won't have the "Beast" smell to deal with 😎 :) 😎 :)
Todd best of luck with this one
 

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Lost1wing

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I understand. ;)

20250708_203026.jpg
I have a couple 87's and a 77. They all collect dust and I pulled the batteries. I was too scared to loan them out when asked to borrow a meter. I purchased a handful of cheap Fluke 101's. Passed them out to all the kids and son-in-law a couple of Halloweens ago. So no matter where I am, there is a meter close. If I ever need an 87 or 77, I'm working to hard.

Nice tool collection.
 

Hootbro

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I have a couple 87's and a 77. They all collect dust and I pulled the batteries. I was too scared to loan them out when asked to borrow a meter. I purchased a handful of cheap Fluke 101's. Passed them out to all the kids and son-in-law a couple of Halloweens ago. So no matter where I am, there is a meter close. If I ever need an 87 or 77, I'm working to hard.

Nice tool collection.
The FLUKE 87 is my primary. The 112 & 113 I picked up at the flea market dirt cheap. The 27 I bought out of nostalgia as that what was issued to me when I was in the Army.

The FLIR stuff mainly came about because I had a niche need for a remote meter with Bluetooth function.

Desk jockey now at work mainly so all of them see little use unless for home stuff. I do have a calendar reminder set for every 5 years to swap the batteries out though. :)

Funny you mention a FLUKE 101, that is my desk meter at work. I probably have another 4 or 5 cheapie meters scattered about.

I may have a meter hoarding problem.
 

ShadowsPapa

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@ShadowsPapa
On the topic of electrical stuff, what do you use to clean electrical connections?
I noticed that my trailer plug is starting to show signs of corrosion. You know that greenish scuz on the terminals.
I used to have some stuff that was used to clean radiators before you soldered the brackets back on. Ran out and can't remember what it was, since I had put it in a smaller bottle with no label. That and the old timer at the parts store has retired. No one left knows what it was.
Being that you rebuild/recondition older electrical stuff, figured you were one to ask. Was going to DM you but figured others might benefit from the answer.
No pressure, haha.
Thanks
Electric contact cleaner on light stuff, vinegar and.water mix on some others with "growth", or a brass brush on a Dremel, just rinse well as vinegar is an acid. I dry and use dielectric grease. In fact, I use that stuff on almost everything that is in weather or damp. I buy big tubes as it's used a lot on the snow plow connectors, and I use it on all trailer connectors.
 

Lost1wing

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The FLUKE 87 is my primary. The 112 & 113 I picked up at the flea market dirt cheap. The 27 I bought out of nostalgia as that what was issued to me when I was in the Army.

The FLIR stuff mainly came about because I had a niche need for a remote meter with Bluetooth function.

Desk jockey now at work mainly so all of them see little use unless for home stuff. I do have a calendar reminder set for every 5 years to swap the batteries out though. :)

Funny you mention a FLUKE 101, that is my desk meter at work. I probably have another 4 or 5 cheapie meters scattered about.

I may have a meter hoarding problem.
What do you use for an analog meter (load meter)? I had an old Simpson, now I only have an old Sears Craftsman anolog meter.
 

Hootbro

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What do you use for an analog meter (load meter)? I had an old Simpson, now I only have an old Sears Craftsman anolog meter.
Used a Simpson 260. Currently broke a knob off it and need to get it fixed. Also have a cheapie Micronta (Radio Shack) analog meter.
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