My Lift Plan

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

KO2s are small, mine measures 36.5" at 20psi. It hit the trackbar when the suspension cycled.

Lol.
Can we all feel better about ourselves and just continue to major in the minors with things that have nothing to do with the op?

You do understand the difference between ordering an adjustable rear track bar just because, (OP's case) and ordering an adjustable rear track bar because it's the only one that'll accommodate a larger tire due to its shape, without the adjustability factor having anything to do with it, (possibly your case) right?

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[JT1]

Lol.
Can we all feel better about ourselves and just continue to major in the minors with things that have nothing to do with the op?

You do understand the difference between ordering an adjustable rear track bar just because, (OP's case) and ordering an adjustable rear track bar because it's the only one that'll accommodate a larger tire due to its shape, without the adjustability factor having anything to do with it, (possibly your case) right?

In this instance, the specifics of the OPs lift don't matter, but down the road including the minutiae may save another member the trouble.

The bracket DOES work, it is also a pain to install since you have to drill through a thick ass bracket (yes there are some pure bolt on ones, but thats a pain in the ass too) The handling benefits are there, but everyone's skill and access to tools isn't the same, so in some instances the aftermarket bar to center the axle is a viable alternative.

 

[Gizmo]

I did the Teraflex rear track bar bracket with stock track bar. One it was cheaper than a good adjustible TB and I have no intentions of going higher . Rear axle is centered and track bar is as flat as ever so I see no need for any more attention at the rear with with a MOPAR kit . Even with a 1/2" spacer on top of the front MOPAR coils I have 5.5 and 5.6 degrees of caster which is fine for 37's. This vehicles main objective is to drive and look good on the road. I still enjoy the TJ for off road fun and fishing.

 

[Grump Fish]

If I had made up my mind to buy a spacer lift I would just get the AEV kit. Its around $500 and includes everything you need to raise it up about 2". If you plan to do any off roading save up a bit and for about 2K you can get some nice lift kits that will get the job done. I have Teraflex/Clayton on my Wrangler. Full Clayton on the Gladiator and I just installed the AEV 2.5" lift on my sons Jeep. I really like the AEV kits. His was around 1800 and had everything he needed including shocks (they are bilstein 5100's).

Thanks for the perspective. Do you have any more info on the Bilstein 5100s? Ive been trying to figure out the length or preferably a part number for what's needed with a 2"-2.5" lift.

 

[Grump Fish]

Get the adjustable front track bar.
There is NEVER a need or benefit to an adjustable rear track bar.
Instead get a rear track bar relocation bracket. It will bring your track bar back to horizontal (or near) which will greatly improve ride quality.

A few other things I learned after installing a couple lifts on my JT while familiarizing with how it all works:
Correct bump stop spacing is important to prevent shocks from bottoming out, and to provide tire to frame/ body clearance.

Front sway bar link ends should restore sway bar "arm" angle to slightly inclined from front to back.
Rear links should put the arm in a slightly declined angle front to back.

If your steering/ ride quality feels prone to wandering as you drive on a straight, flat road, (and tires are properly inflated/ even wear) you need more caster in the front axle.

Money spent on high quality shock absorbers is money well spent. If you have a lift budget, allocate far more to shocks which have a much broader range of performance than chunks of metal like control arms, track bars, etc. even most coil springs, where variation from the highest $ to the lowest $ is negligible.

Everyone likes to brag about their favorite brands, but unless you're running the Baja 500, there's likely no functional difference between their individual components. It's more important to have in a kit, the necessary components which accommodate a complete and proper suspension alteration, and some of these kits have plenty of unnecessary components while omitting parts which help in restoring OE ride quality.



Did you measure them? Were they equal? It sounds more like either one of the parts or something on your frame or axle may be out of spec.

Good input! I really dont have a "Budget" per se, I just don't want to put a lot of money into a lift that she will never get full use from and may compromise the stock ride comfort too much. When I think of offroading, I think of what some of you guys do on the rocks and hills with massive articulation of the suspension. Here in Louisiana, we do have need for small lifts and better ground clearance, but it is mainly for crossing levees, slick, silted in boat ramps, and muddy, rutted logging roads. This is the most her truck will see, so I think a spacer lift with good shocks should be adequate. I do want to be sure the geometry is corrected for the lift though.

 

[Grump Fish]

Spring height isn’t just a taller spring. It’s also a different spring rate…possibly a dual or triple rate spring. When you mix match parts you are doing your own R&D, when it’s already been done for you by manufacturers offering complete kits. They’ve mixed and matched. They’ve ironed out possible ill affects to complete their kit.

Everyone’s needs may be different. Do you run with no added weight up front or in the bed. Do you run a plow? Do you carry tools 24/7? Rack? Tent?

Some manufacturers anticipate a steel bumper / winch combo with their base kits, but offer heavier duty rear springs in the rear for those carrying a bed shell or rack tent set up. @claytonoffroad for example has done this. Customer service seems to be spot on.

When you take these chores upon yourself you are driving blind and very well may either end up with a rig with components that don’t work well or not as well as they could. Take advantage of the R&D that your are paying for in each part as they’re meant to work like a system. Step outside of this and not only are you rolling the dice, but you’ll be left high and dry if issues arise…causing you to spend unneeded dollars to correct your errors. My $0.02.

Thanks, we will eventually put a steel front bumper on it rated for flat towing. This os one of the reasons we wanted the Gladiator.

 

[Grump Fish]

Stay thirsty my friend.

In my case, one would have to remove the heat shield between the spare tire location and the tailpipe before encountering interference with a spare tire and the track bar.

But for the OP's discussion, and general suspension lift geometry and practicality, my assessment is correct:
One will NEVER NEED an ADJUSTABLE rear track bar.

In my opinion and experience, overemphasis on an adjustable rear track bar has overshadowed the much greater practical benefit of installing a rear track bar relocation bracket which is perfectly accommodating to the factory track bar.

Does the relocation bracket allow some amount of movement to recenter the rear axle? I am not familiar with these, though I did see that Teraflex offers them.

 

[Gizmo]

It raises the axle mounted end of the track bar back up to were it was before ya lifted it so it puts the differential back in the original position

 

[Dougstdig]

It's your money. My adjustable rear track bar with "spare tire bend" has sat in my garage as long as my fully inflated 37" KO2 spare has sat in the spare tire well with the factory track bar and has more clearance than the heat shield. Ntm, at about 3+inches of lift the rear axle was still centered before the relocation bracket went in, so what is the purpose of an adjustable rear track bar?

37” BFG tires are a bit of an oddity since they run small/short. I can see getting by without the bend. Go with the more true-to-sized offerings from Cooper, Nitto, Yoko, Toyo, Mickey and even Falken and you bet get into a bind as the suspension works.

 

[Grump Fish]

Ended up going with a little less lift so we could keep most everything stock and not compromise the stock ride.

1-1/2" Teraflex Level Kit
Mopar Extended Lower Control Arms
Milestar Patagonia 315 70 17 D8 Tires

We flexed it a little in my friend's yard and around the road ditch to make sure it doesn't rub. Definitely as much or more than she'll be doing.

Wife is very happy!

 

[Shopshirt]

Thanks for the perspective. Do you have any more info on the Bilstein 5100s? Ive been trying to figure out the length or preferably a part number for what's needed with a 2"-2.5" lift.

These are what I was advised to purchase when shopping for Bilstein 5100 for a 2-2.5 Inch Lift.

Bilstein B8 5100 2-3″ Front, 1.5-2.5″ Rear Shocks For 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023 Jeep Gladiator
Part: 2×33-305219_2x33-305288
Bilstein B8 5100 shock absorbers are designed as a direct fit solution for lifted trucks and SUV’s. These shock absorbers feature a monotube design which provides consistent fade free performance. B8 5100 shock absorbers utilize a unique, velocity sensitive, digressive piston which reacts to changing road conditions. All B8 5100 shock absorbers are tuned for each specific application to assure optimal performance is achieved. B8 5100 shock absorbers offer a significant improvement in ride quality, handling, and comfort.

Front Shocks:

• Collapsed Length (IN): 17.07
• Extended Length (IN): 26.88
• Collapsed Length (MM): 433.5
• Extended Length (MM): 682.7
• Finish: Zinc Plated
• Reservoir: No
• Body Design: Smooth Body (Non-Coilover)
• Body Diameter: 46mm

Rear Shocks:

• Collapsed Length (IN): 17.91
• Extended Length (IN): 28.41
• Collapsed Length (MM): 455.0
• Extended Length (MM): 721.7
• Finish: Zinc Plated
• Reservoir: No
• Body Design: Smooth Body (Non-Coilover)
• Body Diameter: 46mm
• Notes: Requires appropriate bump stop extensions

 

[Grump Fish]

These are what I was advised to purchase when shopping for Bilstein 5100 for a 2-2.5 Inch Lift.

Bilstein B8 5100 2-3″ Front, 1.5-2.5″ Rear Shocks For 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023 Jeep Gladiator
Part: 2×33-305219_2x33-305288
Bilstein B8 5100 shock absorbers are designed as a direct fit solution for lifted trucks and SUV’s. These shock absorbers feature a monotube design which provides consistent fade free performance. B8 5100 shock absorbers utilize a unique, velocity sensitive, digressive piston which reacts to changing road conditions. All B8 5100 shock absorbers are tuned for each specific application to assure optimal performance is achieved. B8 5100 shock absorbers offer a significant improvement in ride quality, handling, and comfort.

Front Shocks:

• Collapsed Length (IN): 17.07
• Extended Length (IN): 26.88
• Collapsed Length (MM): 433.5
• Extended Length (MM): 682.7
• Finish: Zinc Plated
• Reservoir: No
• Body Design: Smooth Body (Non-Coilover)
• Body Diameter: 46mm

Rear Shocks:

• Collapsed Length (IN): 17.91
• Extended Length (IN): 28.41
• Collapsed Length (MM): 455.0
• Extended Length (MM): 721.7
• Finish: Zinc Plated
• Reservoir: No
• Body Design: Smooth Body (Non-Coilover)
• Body Diameter: 46mm
• Notes: Requires appropriate bump stop extensions

Thanks, Kevin. Good data to have. I think we are going to stick with the EOM shocks for now since I ended up only leveling it 1-1/2" in the front.

 

[ChrisNLA]

Ended up going with a little less lift so we could keep most everything stock and not compromise the stock ride.

1-1/2" Teraflex Level Kit
Mopar Extended Lower Control Arms
Milestar Patagonia 315 70 17 D8 Tires

We flexed it a little in my friend's yard and around the road ditch to make sure it doesn't rub. Definitely as much or more than she'll be doing.

Wife is very happy!

Looks great! I have the same leveling kit. Now I have an idea of what 35s would look like on mine as well. I've been thinking about hunting down some black Mojave wheels first.

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