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New winch and new front bumper, best way to counter balance.

The Yeti

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Haha I won't be havin no shop reseat nothing haha, I have plenty of tools. If I have a proper isolator positioning the coil better there will be a big difference in height and distance between the bumpstop and spacer you mean? @Freems
The coil is positioned all the way to the correct position in the stock isolator. Spring looks to be seated correctly in the lower "insulator" anyway but from what I've read there is some from Rock Krawler brand parts or somthing that fix that issue. Although can't seem to find them anywhere locally (I'm in Canada). That seems to be the least of my issues at the moment though. The spring bow is known and noticed when I took a look at things recently but not a big issue compared to the rest. That bump stop looks awfully close to the spacer. I also need a drag link (thinking ill go with Apex) but that's not the question at hand.
Being I have a 2.5" coil spacer on top and 2.5" bump stop (from my best guess when using my Stanley fatmax tape measure), bought it the way it is I'm thinking there should be a hell of a lot more space than what I have. @ShadowsPapa pic shows a massive difference than what I have. So figured he might have a thought on the situation from his experience after reading this thread. BUT, I am open to any and all's thoughts...
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Freems

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Yes, that's another reason I went with springs - lost travel. And that was noted when I hit a pavement dip and for the first time on that spot, I could feel it. Normally my truck just floated through that intersection.

1" was a fairly big deal for me as it made my rake just that much worse.
And losing that much spring travel wasn't a nice thing, knowing springs and suspension.

If a person simply wants to take rake out with no added weight at all, spacers are fine, but recovering lost height due to weight - springs are the way.

I can take rough roads and dips without bottoming or binding coils.
Just curious, does the truck with the new springs still just float through that intersection with your plow on now? You tow a Javelin if I’m remembering correctly with that Overland, how did that change towing with the new coils on and no plow on? I tow with my sport and used the Teraflex 1 1/2” spacers up front (added a 70lbs metal bumper and a 60lbs winch). I went with the spacers because I wanted the rake for towing.
 

Freems

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Haha I won't be havin no shop reseat nothing haha, I have plenty of tools. If I have a proper isolator positioning the coil better there will be a big difference in height and distance between the bumpstop and spacer you mean?
The coil is positioned all the way to the correct position in the stock isolator. Spring looks to be seated correctly in the lower "insulator" anyway but from what I've read there is some from Rock Krawler brand parts or somthing that fix that issue. Although can't seem to find them anywhere locally (I'm in Canada). That seems to be the least of my issues at the moment though. The spring bow is known and noticed when I took a look at things recently but not a big issue compared to the rest. That bump stop looks awfully close to the spacer. I also need a drag link (thinking ill go with Apex) but that's not the question at hand.
Being I have a 2.5" coil spacer on top and 2.5" bump stop (from my best guess when using my Stanley fatmax tape measure), bought it the way it is I'm thinking there should be a hell of a lot more space than what I have. @ShadowsPapa pic shows a massive difference than what I have. So figured he might have a thought on the situation from his experience after reading this thread. BUT, I am open to any and all's thoughts...
Wow, you don’t have hardly any space left for travel, someone put way too many stops in there…PapaShadow is the man, he’ll get you straight.
 

The Yeti

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Yup, that's what I was sayin. There's only 1 stop spacer. Like I said in the posts above, a 2.5" coil spacer and a 2.5" bump stop spacer. At least that's what the tape measure says. Hoping for some insight and yeah since I joined and been reading on the forum so fsr Shadowpapa might be the guy ti help clarify my situation for sure
 

whiteglad

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In another thread I detailed how I minimized the weight gain by selecting a bumper closer to stock weight, synthetic winch rope, and lighter weight hawse, rope terminus, etc. I brought the weight gain down from over 100 lb to about 70 lb, and the sag to about 3/8".
 

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I am purchasing a winch and bumper but concerned with the sag it will create. I would like to counter balance the sag but limit changes to suspension as much as possible.

Was thinking 1”2” spacers , depending on how much sag is created, hoping it’s the least impactful.


thoughts?
i did 3/4 spacer from daystar all the way around and ran two 5 gal NATO jerry cans in the bed. Got me to stock ride height and rake. I did lighten my winch up tho. I went to a ZXR12 aluminum body vs my old steel winch.
 

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Trust me, you are gonna want to do springs. It is the same amount of work as spacers. I know a lot of people like their spacer setup but most people if they could drive a vehicle side by side with one having spacers and the other a spring lift, the spring lift is going to get picked more times than not.
depends on trim level. I went a full synergy 1in lift spring swap all the way around, and tried a IM4x4 2in spring as well. My Mojave just didn't feel right. Stock springs and a 3/4 spacer feels just like stock. The only springs I've seen most Mojave owners happy with outside of stock are JLUXR springs. Granted this issue may be exclusive to Mojave because of thier shock package. The shocks are tuned for a specific spring rate. So any drastic changes and its absolute ass, unless you revalve. But even then its setup for high speed cycling, heavy weight springs don't do that very well. SO u gotta be picky with what spring options are available. My rubicon on the other hand, I 100% agree with you. keep it all spring.
 

Zachanadandy

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Easiest way to think about this...if you lost height due to adding weight, how did you lose it? That's right, the spring compressed. Adding a spacer won't give you that travel you just lost back. It'll give you the height back, but the spring will stay just as compressed as it was before the spacer.

Now, 1" is not a huge deal and most people will be happy with the spacer, but if you're looking for the "best" way, it's with a new spring.
Your bump stops and shocks will still be limiting the travel not the spring? Even with a 2" spacer you won't get into coil bind at full bump. Your spacer didn't change the amount of travel. Technically it would increase potential downtravel before you had a coil drop out but you'd have to be running a very long shock for that to be a concern. The spacer will in fact gain back the usable uptravel from ride height to bump stop if that's what you were referring to.
 

Capt.

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I put Synergy 1" springs under my Overland and it brought it back up to stock height after a winch and bumper install. In fact, that's what those springs are made for.
Otherwise, spacers would do. You won't need much to bring it back to stock height up front. 1" would do it.
Are there any issues with steering on the freeway given the minor lift?
 

Capt.

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Your bump stops and shocks will still be limiting the travel not the spring? Even with a 2" spacer you won't get into coil bind at full bump. Your spacer didn't change the amount of travel. Technically it would increase potential downtravel before you had a coil drop out but you'd have to be running a very long shock for that to be a concern. The spacer will in fact gain back the usable uptravel from ride height to bump stop if that's what you were referring to.
Thanks for that great observation! Good to keep in mind.
 

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My front end heighth was reduced .250" when I added a badlands apex 12k winch and plate to the factory steel bumper on factory rubicon suspension. I have not done anything to it as Iam thinking mopar 2 inch lift in the future and I like the factory rake.
 
 







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