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ShadowsPapa

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Made an appointment (finally, should never had put this off) for my JT (Overland) to go in for the front shocks that are leaking and to ask them to check the rears since it is now starting to bounce a bit much, and a lot more than it used to.
Can't get in until August 21st. That's bad enough but the service advisor emailed me and says - uh, not sure we can even get shocks by then, they are backordered.
About 20 minutes later I got another email thanking me for my appointment for my JT December 28th, 2023. i emailed the service advisor - hey, there's been some mistake?
He said ignore it - he put that in the system to see if he could get shocks even by then - maybe not. He said we'll keep the appointment since I have a clunk when the frame and body flexes and they need to check that out, but he can't promise they'll have shocks by then. Really? Standard cheap OEM/factory OVERLAND shocks - the level that likely sells the least and they can't get shocks.

Of course, I want it done for free so I guess I wait. If it was out of warranty I'd say never mind, I'll buy shocks and in short order have them swapped out. But this should be fixed on Jeep's dime.

And another thing swimming around in my mind.......
Front end is lifted 1.5"
Rear end is lifted a whopping 0.75" with spacers.
Any foreseen issues there?

I've been unable to find the collapsed and extended specs for JTO shocks (or most other full factory shocks for that matter) - so I can't say if my whopping, tall as a skyscraper, Superman can't even leap over it, monster lift of 1.5" and 0.75" matters a hoot with stock shocks. No specs, nothing to compare to.

Anyway, warning for those wanting shocks replaced under warranty - if it's an Overland - good luck.
They aren't even electronic and they can't get them.
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rharr

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just slap on those crappy ruby shocks you have at least they don't leak and probably drive about as good as the failing OL shocks...
 
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ShadowsPapa

ShadowsPapa

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just slap on those crappy ruby shocks you have at least they don't leak and probably drive about as good as the failing OL shocks...
I had thought of that - it would be going from leaking shocks to weak non-leaking shocks.
And then we all know how good leaking shocks eventually get - not working at all.

The Rubicon rears are about a wash - I didn't put those back on the 2022 because they were worse than the JTO shocks were new. Now it's about the same.

Too bad Rubicons don't come with good shocks. That would be problem solved.

I need to pull a stock shock, compress it and measure, let it extend and measure, and compare to the Rubicon shocks - I'm really curious as to length comparison.
 

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This is what Teraflex said when I asked about changing shocks and mopar lift LCA’s with their leveling kit.

Jeep Gladiator No shocks IMG_4466
 

rharr

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I had thought of that - it would be going from leaking shocks to weak non-leaking shocks.
And then we all know how good leaking shocks eventually get - not working at all.

The Rubicon rears are about a wash - I didn't put those back on the 2022 because they were worse than the JTO shocks were new. Now it's about the same.

Too bad Rubicons don't come with good shocks. That would be problem solved.

I need to pull a stock shock, compress it and measure, let it extend and measure, and compare to the Rubicon shocks - I'm really curious as to length comparison.
If you have a mill you can mill an flat spot on the ruby shocks and the drill a hole for a Schrader charge port, which then allows you to "rebuild" and recharge the shocks. You could get crazy and drain the old oil and add some 10 weight shock oil to see if that slows this down over whole operation range. most shocks run 5wt

If i was retired and had time to burn, would be a fun waste of time.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...ing-their-own-shock-tuning.53421/post-1046714
 
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ShadowsPapa

ShadowsPapa

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This is what Teraflex said when I asked about changing shocks and mopar lift LCA’s with their leveling kit.

IMG_4466.jpeg
My Synergy 2" springs gave me almost 2" to start with and things settled to 1.5"
Right now it sits at 23" center of wheel to ridge on fender flare trim. Stock was 21.5" so I've gained 1.5" in the end.
That's the same as their 1.5" leveling kit, isn't it?
I am running MOPAR lift kit type lower arms
So they are saying stock shocks are fine. Wish I knew the comparison, etc. but no worries about stock apparently.


If you have a mill you can mill an flat spot on the ruby shocks and the drill a hole for a Schrader charge port, which then allows you to "rebuild" and recharge the shocks. You could get crazy and drain the old oil and add some 10 weight shock oil to see if that slows this down over whole operation range. most shocks run 5wt
Wish I had the time - still not keeping up with restorations for others.
I have a cheapy mill - one of those early ShopTask things, lathe and mill. Limited travel of course as it's a compact all-in-one unit.
 
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ShadowsPapa

ShadowsPapa

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Given your snow plow setup, I would say forget getting the OEM's replaced and look for a better pair of aftermarket shocks.
I've thought about that, but money is going out left and right for some other stuff. But it's been a thought.
My thing is wanting to keep the fantastic ride and handling it has now.
But I had given it thought before posting.

The plow is only on for hours at a time - due to the air flow issues likely won't drive much with it on.

But I do tow - and there's extra weight on it, and the different front springs.

I looked into the Bilstein shock info - but digressive shocks - not sure I want that harder ride. Right now it actually rides better than the Grand Cherokee we last had.
 
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ShadowsPapa

ShadowsPapa

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No problem with this dealer - they are well aware of the truck, the changes and equipment on it. They've worked on it since all of the changes.
For 1.5" I don't need "long travel".
(Teraflex confirmed that based on the posts above)
Anyway, these guys aren't your typical "you change a bolt, no warranty!" types.

It's just too bad they can't even say they can get replacement shocks for it.
It's a "we'll try but can't promise" thing.
 

Charles 236

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I've noticed that my Overland has been floating a bit over some road irregularities. Haven't bothered to look under it yet, but I will do it next oil change. I like the ride better than the way my '16 Challenger R/T ride, it kinda reminds me of driving the old family sedan when I was a teenager.
 

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ShadowsPapa

ShadowsPapa

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I've noticed that my Overland has been floating a bit over some road irregularities. Haven't bothered to look under it yet, but I will do it next oil change. I like the ride better than the way my '16 Challenger R/T ride, it kinda reminds me of driving the old family sedan when I was a teenager.

Jeep Gladiator No shocks PXL_20230504_223723445

Jeep Gladiator No shocks PXL_20230504_223324523
 

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The ride on my Overland reminds me of the '73 Buick I drove when much younger. I have new shocks to go on it, just need some time and cooler weather.
 
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ShadowsPapa

ShadowsPapa

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The ride on my Overland reminds me of the '73 Buick I drove when much younger. I have new shocks to go on it, just need some time and cooler weather.
Mine isn't mushy - fronts are leaky. The rear does bounce a bit more than it used to - about like when I had the Rubicon shocks on my 2020 - that type of bounce. But not bouncy on the highway or road.
It's a nice firm road hugging ride and it's stable as heck at 95, stable around curves, etc.
But it's not harsh across tracks like our GCs used to be.
 

dmwphoto

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took the stock shocks off of my 22 Overland at 4000 miles and threw them away. Replaced with Tereflex Falcons. Much improved ride in every way. I understand you have money flowing in different directions right now, but if you want this fixed right you can do MUCH better than the factory replacements.
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