oil filter housing breakage

[Gizmo]

oil filter assembly any different ?
EDIT: I stand corrected the oil filter assembly are different part numbers

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[ZoMojave]

If no one shops there, inflation comes down, right?? There’s no other way to lower the price.

Yup. Much like the lack of JT sales these days now generating 12-15k off msrp to clear them off the lots. Unheard of not too long ago.

 

[salvino]

Dropped my '21 off at the local shop that normally does my oil changes only to get a call from them telling me they wont be liable if the oil filter housing breaks.

Apparently this is a common issue on 3.6 liter and they've broken a couple recently and the cost replace is over a thousand dollars.

I called around to 3 dealers in the area and all 3 deny this is an issue and they've never heard of it. A quick google search says otherwise. It's a seemingly well known issue with the engine across every platform its used in due to the part being plastic and getting brittle over time.

Is anyone failure with this issue and have a suggestion on a fix?

44k miles on my JT. Always dealer serviced. The thing is fine. If the shop that told you that has broken three, I’d take my rig elsewhere. They clearly don’t understand torque.

 

[Florida Mojave]

I saw this awhile back - love the idea but have not seen enough feedback.
Not sure if the Pro's justify the cost...
Anyone running this??
@ShadowsPapa - what's your view on this?

https://www.baxterperformanceusa.com/spin-on-oil-filter-adapter-1.html

 

[Hootbro]

But not THIS 3.6.........the upgrade engine. Wrangler didn't get this one until the JL.

But it is pretty much the same oil filter and cooler housing design for the most part minus some changes for the current oil filter design going from 2014 and forward.

I think part of the problem is they use some type of PA66 Nylon reinforced plastic or similar material for both the housing and the filter cap. Using threaded parts of that material gives crappy feedback when hand torquing something down and it is easy to over gauge "snug" vs. a all metal design.

 

[Renegade]

I’ve had 5 Pentastars, with as many as 144k miles. Never had a cracked oil filter housing. It’s either luck that I haven’t had a problem, or the crack is a symptom of over tightening. I believe it’s the latter.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

But it is pretty much the same oil filter and cooler housing design for the most part minus some changes for the current oil filter design going from 2014 and forward.

I think part of the problem is they use some type of PA66 Nylon reinforced plastic or similar material for both the housing and the filter cap. Using threaded parts of that material gives crappy feedback when hand torquing something down and it is easy to over gauge "snug" vs. a all metal design.

Question - don't take this wrong, please- are the part numbers the same 2014 to 2020, for example?

I see a couple of members had mentioned a different o-ring


Just in general, not pointed at/aimed at anyone -
I'm just going to toss stuff out, food for thought or totally ignore it, or take it as the raving rantings of a loony madman, whatever...........

I see mentions of plastic - there are many many types of plastics, some are not prone to some of the issues mentioned like age and heat after 4 years. Some types of plastics have been used on engines for years without problems, of course some have been failures.
So "plastic" in itself covers anything that isn't a metal that can be shaped or molded and so on. We call nylon plastic, AMC was in the business of making "plastic parts" for Ford as interior parts. There was also a very unique "plastic" (can't recall the name) used on the bumper ends of Eagles, and the plastics used on fender flares.
I've seen people who are still running the original "plastic" valve cover on their 1982 258. the problem with those wasn't that they were plastic - but because people kept tightening things down any time there was a leak or seepage instead of taking things apart and sealing correctly. The plastic valve cover on my own car was only bad because some dope in the past tightened the 2 nuts securing it trying to fix a leak and - CRACKED it after distorting it badly. That's a plastic valve cover that survived a couple of decades, 150,000 miles.

How many of us have had to use a punch to knock a hole in a spin-on oil filter to get it off, ripping it to shreds to remove it? Most of the time that's because the fool who installed it did not oil the seal and/or used a wrench to install the filter. If you install a spin-on filter correctly - you oil the seal, and install it by hand. And next time you do an oil change, you may need a simple filter wrench, but it will come off pretty easily. Lube that seal. I even lube threads on such parts. I lube threaded PVC pipes as well and they'll go together better and seal better and if you need them apart you don't destroy them.
I suspect some of that fits with the idea that much of this is about people not thinking things through when doing a filter change.

I saw this awhile back - love the idea but have not seen enough feedback.
Not sure if the Pro's justify the cost...
Anyone running this??
@ShadowsPapa - what's your view on this?

https://www.baxterperformanceusa.com/spin-on-oil-filter-adapter-1.html

I see no real need for it.
I believe it's more of a "feel good" thing than necessity.
Look at the millions of Pentastar 3.6 engines out there.

 

[Hootbro]

Question - don't take this wrong, please- are the part numbers the same 2014 to 2020, for example?

For the oil filter housing and oil cooler assembly, they changed part numbers when the PUG engines came online in 2017. Only technical difference is with the oil cooler assembly.

 

[Florida Mojave]

Question - don't take this wrong, please- are the part numbers the same 2014 to 2020, for example?

I see a couple of members had mentioned a different o-ring


Just in general, not pointed at/aimed at anyone -
I'm just going to toss stuff out, food for thought or totally ignore it, or take it as the raving rantings of a loony madman, whatever...........

I see mentions of plastic - there are many many types of plastics, some are not prone to some of the issues mentioned like age and heat after 4 years. Some types of plastics have been used on engines for years without problems, of course some have been failures.
So "plastic" in itself covers anything that isn't a metal that can be shaped or molded and so on. We call nylon plastic, AMC was in the business of making "plastic parts" for Ford as interior parts. There was also a very unique "plastic" (can't recall the name) used on the bumper ends of Eagles, and the plastics used on fender flares.
I've seen people who are still running the original "plastic" valve cover on their 1982 258. the problem with those wasn't that they were plastic - but because people kept tightening things down any time there was a leak or seepage instead of taking things apart and sealing correctly. The plastic valve cover on my own car was only bad because some dope in the past tightened the 2 nuts securing it trying to fix a leak and - CRACKED it after distorting it badly. That's a plastic valve cover that survived a couple of decades, 150,000 miles.

How many of us have had to use a punch to knock a hole in a spin-on oil filter to get it off, ripping it to shreds to remove it? Most of the time that's because the fool who installed it did not oil the seal and/or used a wrench to install the filter. If you install a spin-on filter correctly - you oil the seal, and install it by hand. And next time you do an oil change, you may need a simple filter wrench, but it will come off pretty easily. Lube that seal. I even lube threads on such parts. I lube threaded PVC pipes as well and they'll go together better and seal better and if you need them apart you don't destroy them.
I suspect some of that fits with the idea that much of this is about people not thinking things through when doing a filter change.

I see no real need for it.
I believe it's more of a "feel good" thing than necessity.
Look at the millions of Pentastar 3.6 engines out there.

I was thinking along those lines as well - track record for standard filter is pretty damn good. Don't see how this is justified - I have not seen/heard of many issues where you need to have an anti-drainback valve.
The part covers the 3.2 and the 3.6 motors I guess that's why the years are mixed together.
I also do all my own work, one of the first things I was taught and I also taught my son was to oil the gasket and threads - old school.
Thanks for your input!!

 

[Blade1668]

This is only a problem if overtightened. I keep a spare filter housing (the plastic part) just in case of breakage. I think it was like $20, no way costing a grand.

Yeah, I bought one for a spare after first oil change.

 

[SargeDiesel]

Dropped my '21 off at the local shop that normally does my oil changes only to get a call from them telling me they wont be liable if the oil filter housing breaks.

Apparently this is a common issue on 3.6 liter and they've broken a couple recently and the cost replace is over a thousand dollars.

I called around to 3 dealers in the area and all 3 deny this is an issue and they've never heard of it. A quick google search says otherwise. It's a seemingly well known issue with the engine across every platform its used in due to the part being plastic and getting brittle over time.

Is anyone failure with this issue and have a suggestion on a fix?

Ist , I would suggest doing it yourself and if you can not, take it to the dealership and have it done(as long as they take responsibility for their actions)... which it sounds like they would based on the answer they gave you.

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