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Overland vs Rubicon

rocky4by

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Are the frames and axles the same between these 2 models? also are there any other differences that make it better to go with the Rubicon?
I don't really need the low range of the Rubicon, I was all set to go with the Mojave but the no diesel changed that choice as an option. We race a class 10 car in the Baja 1000 and other desert races and will be using our Jeep for supply and tow needs while down in Baja. We live in Oregon and also get out into the mountains where we live, but we really don't do a whole lot of slow crawling, I am just trying to figure out which model would be best to go with. The photo is our 10 car at the finish of the 2017 Baja 1000, cant wait to go back, I think the Jeep is really going to be nice to have down in Baja:beer:
Thanks for any information.
Jeep Gladiator Overland vs Rubicon 20171117_230144
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ShadowsPapa

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Rubicon axles are a total of 1.5" wider side to side, Rubicon has a differential gear ratio of 4.10 while Overland is 3.73. Otherwise one is just as "tough" as the other. The Rubicon isn't stronger or tougher than the others, just aimed at off-road folks so more capable that way with electric front sway bar disconnect (but you can add on manual disconnects later on the Overland), lower gear ratios, etc.
 

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The other difference with the Rubicon that wasn't mentioned is the front and rear lockers. Not sure if they would be of value to you but for many use cases the disconnects, lockers, 4.10s, 4:1 TC and wider axles are very helpful. As said all can be added some may cost more than others to add.
 

Artsifrtsi

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As said, the bulk of the differences is axles and transfer case. The Rubi also has a 3/4 lift over the O'rland.
 

ShadowsPapa

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The other difference with the Rubicon that wasn't mentioned is the front and rear lockers. Not sure if they would be of value to you but for many use cases the disconnects, lockers, 4.10s, 4:1 TC and wider axles are very helpful. As said all can be added some may cost more than others to add.
Right - I forgot about the electric lockers.

As said, the bulk of the differences is axles and transfer case. The Rubi also has a 3/4 lift over the O'rland.
The "lift" is in the way of the springs holding it higher - stiffer.
Otherwise all other suspension parts are the same - sway bar links, track bar, control arms, all the same. It's the springs. (and the Rubicon Fox shocks are good - I put Rubicon Fox shock take-offs on my Overland to give it more road feel, stiffen it up a bit for my uses)
The Rubicon front springs I put under the front of my Overland raised the front by almost 7/8". (Overland being a touch lighter, with the stiffer Rubicon springs.

And the Overland has a softer ride, it's great for travel long distances!
 

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eaglerugby04

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For tow purposes the Rubicon would be better, or honestly depending on your needs a sport S with max tow.
 

Artsifrtsi

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And the Overland has a softer ride, it's great for travel long distances!
I'm not really looking forward to how the ride will change when I do lift. I think I'll be going with the Mopar 2" or the Rubicon Express 3.5/2.5 lift.
 

NC_Overland

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You said a diesel, so it would have the same 3.73 gearing IIRC. You'd be missing the wider track axles and obviously the sway bar disco and F/R lockers. The Rubicon shocks are considerably better and the springs are stiffer and longer. You could do what I did and purchase a complete Rubicon take off suspension. I paid $150, just the shocks alone cost a lot more than that. It was a crazy good deal, but they are common if you search. It drives way better after the Rubicon shocks and larger A/T tires.

I have an Overland and I bought it because the discounts were so much bigger on the overland and I don't need the capability of a Rubicon anymore since I moved from CO to NC. I'm very happy with mine after the tires, shocks, and blacking out my emblems and a stubby antenna to replace the whip. I came out several thousand cheaper and I'm very happy.

The only thing I wish I had from the Rubicon is 4.10 gears. With the diesels all having 3.73s its a moot point.
 
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Thanks everyone for the reply's, My wife and son and I did stop at our dealer today and drove a 2020 Gladiator Rubicon with the 3.6 gasser, and a Diesel wrangler sport edition. We all liked the Rubicon Gladiator better except for the gas engine which we all thought it was such a dog and down on power. We test drove both on a curvy Rd and some good up hills sections, and about 5 miles of hwy. The diesel is power house, my foot was barely on the gas and the jeep didn't shift near as much as the gasser.

Depending on ones terrain and how the Jeep would be used the gas engine might be ok, but for our needs we better stick with the diesel. So now all we have to do order one up how we want it built:like: and pay for it:facepalm:
 

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rocky4by

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We raced all the way to La Paz from Ensenada and chased with our 1997 Dodge Cummins in 2017, we found diesel when we needed it. Its just what they have at the pump, seemed to run fine:whew: We always take as much fuel with us as we can get away with at the boarder crossing. Also went down and raced this past 2019 Baja 1000 and chased with our 2018 Ram Cummins, but it was a loop race, and we just needed fuel one time and that was bought in Ensenada.
 

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You also get a cooler looking hood with the Rubi
 

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Thanks everyone for the reply's, My wife and son and I did stop at our dealer today and drove a 2020 Gladiator Rubicon with the 3.6 gasser, and a Diesel wrangler sport edition. We all liked the Rubicon Gladiator better except for the gas engine which we all thought it was such a dog and down on power. We test drove both on a curvy Rd and some good up hills sections, and about 5 miles of hwy. The diesel is power house, my foot was barely on the gas and the jeep didn't shift near as much as the gasser.

Depending on ones terrain and how the Jeep would be used the gas engine might be ok, but for our needs we better stick with the diesel. So now all we have to do order one up how we want it built:like: and pay for it:facepalm:
You can squeeze more power out of the 3.6L with a Superchips Flashpaq but it will require 93 octane for the highest tune output: 29 HP and 37 ft-lbs of torque. Corsa intake (+5 HP and 8 ft-lbs of torque) and an exhaust (+5 to 15 HP and ? ft-lbs of torque) will also bump you up. So for ~$1600, that’s an increase of 39+ HP and 45+ ft-lbs of torque.

Also, numerous supercharger options for about $7k that add 40 - 45% HP.

Or $35k for a 6.4L Hemi.

Or $60k for a 6.2L blown Hellcat Hemi.

In conclusion, $$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Thanks for attending my TED talk
 

WXman

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For a chase vehicle I assume you're interested in hauling and possibly towing? That would disclude the Overland for me. It has the worst payload of the batch.

I'd go Sport S and then load it up with the options you want. You can virtually get everything on the Sport now except leather seats, and the 35% bump in payload makes a much more useful truck.
 

ShadowsPapa

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You can squeeze more power out of the 3.6L with a Superchips Flashpaq but it will require 93 octane for the highest tune output: 29 HP and 37 ft-lbs of torque. Corsa intake (+5 HP and 8 ft-lbs of torque) and an exhaust (+5 to 15 HP and ? ft-lbs of torque) will also bump you up. So for ~$1600, that’s an increase of 39+ HP and 45+ ft-lbs of torque.

Also, numerous supercharger options for about $7k that add 40 - 45% HP.

Or $35k for a 6.4L Hemi.

Or $60k for a 6.2L blown Hellcat Hemi.

In conclusion, $$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Thanks for attending my TED talk
It's not going to be additive like that. If it was then I'd have a 450 HP engine in my car. When you change one thing you then impact the difference the next change makes. Improve exhaust and you get better flow out - which can also impact flow in so the intake may not make as much difference. On the other hand, improving exhaust and gaining say 10 on an otherwise stock engine then improve fuel going in and you could get more out of the intake side than if you hadn't done the exhaust.
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