Power Distribution and Cabling Management

[3oi]

Adding lighting and accessories is fun, but what is everyone using for power distribution and cabling management? Wanting to keep the cabling install clean and tight plus maximize the Aux switch utilization and add multiple options to a single switch. Thinking along the lines of:

Aux 1: 40A - heavy duty accessory, if/when winch is installed
Aux 2: 40A - Light bar + ....
Aux 3: 10A - Supplemental lighting/accessories
Aux 4: 10A - Amber Running LEDs

Looking to go better/cleaner than a basic terminal block. Any recommendations?

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[Puch]

Adding lighting and accessories is fun, but what is everyone using for power distribution and cabling management? Wanting to keep the cabling install clean and tight plus maximize the Aux switch utilization and add multiple options to a single switch. Thinking along the lines of:

Aux 1: 40A - heavy duty accessory, if/when winch is installed
Aux 2: 40A - Light bar + ....
Aux 3: 10A - Supplemental lighting/accessories
Aux 4: 10A - Amber Running LEDs

Looking to go better/cleaner than a basic terminal block. Any recommendations?

If you don’t want to run wires through the firewall, take a look at the trigger 6 shooter. It’s wireless from the switches to the controller. I installed one on my JT. I’m only using it for the locker right now, but plan on adding lights soon. Not sure about the 40amps? It might max out at 30amps.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Winch should go on one of the 15amp switches. The 40amp isn’t enough to actually power the winch by hundreds of amps. The 15amp is more than plenty to power the solenoid that will disconnect battery power from the winch when not in use. I’m also using a 15amp for low power rear bumper aux lights that use less than 5 amps. I use one of my 40amp switches for front bumper lights that draw around 25.

no need to run through firewall for any aux switch hookup. They’re all tucked between the battery and body under The hood.

 

[3oi]

If you don’t want to run wires through the firewall, take a look at the trigger 6 shooter. It’s wireless from the switches to the controller. I installed one on my JT. I’m only using it for the locker right now, but plan on adding lights soon. Not sure about the 40amps? It might max out at 30amps.

Thanks. That's a really cool product that may make me want to add more stuff just because of the extra capacity! Ha!

Winch should go on one of the 15amp switches. The 40amp isn’t enough to actually power the winch by hundreds of amps. The 15amp is more than plenty to power the solenoid that will disconnect battery power from the winch when not in use. I’m also using a 15amp for low power rear bumper aux lights that use less than 5 amps. I use one of my 40amp switches for front bumper lights that draw around 25.

no need to run through firewall for any aux switch hookup. They’re all tucked between the battery and body under The hood.

Not sure I follow on the winch to 15A. While I haven't chosen a model or fully decided on a winch yet, the 40A would be more than enough if winch draw is <=15A.

I am currently using the the Aux wires for a grill function and my Pre-Runner lights and was thinking a common distribution terminal would clean up the way the wires currently sit free in the engine compartment.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Thanks. That's a really cool product that may make me want to add more stuff just because of the extra capacity! Ha!



Not sure I follow on the winch to 15A. While I haven't chosen a model or fully decided on a winch yet, the 40A would be more than enough if winch draw is <=15A.

I am currently using the the Aux wires for a grill function and my Pre-Runner lights and was thinking a common distribution terminal would clean up the way the wires currently sit free in the engine compartment.

The winch depending on size will draw 400-500 amps. The best and safest wiring setup will include a power disconnect solenoid, but when it’s activated, power to the winch comes directly from the battery. 40amp is a waste or overkill for that solenoid as it will use almost no power. The 15amp switches 3 and 4 are more than enough. Save the 40amp switches for higher power draw.

 

[3oi]

The winch depending on size will draw 400-500 amps. The best and safest wiring setup will include a power disconnect solenoid, but when it’s activated, power to the winch comes directly from the battery. 40amp is a waste or overkill for that solenoid as it will use almost no power. The 15amp switches 3 and 4 are more than enough. Save the 40amp switches for higher power draw.

Got it! Makes much more sense. I did not realize the winches drew that much current!

 

[nas4a]

I installed a BadgeGlow SimpleAux block yesterday. Highly recommend. It doesn't allow you to do anything that direct-wiring won't let you do, but the simplicity of it helps a lot. If you decide you want to move something to another switch, or combine things, it's super simple to move them.

I did add a winch solenoid to Aux4. With the SimpleAux Block, it took 5 minutes to wire up the solenoid. I just need to actually install the winch now, but everything is ready!

 

[3oi]

I installed a BadgeGlow SimpleAux block yesterday. Highly recommend. It doesn't allow you to do anything that direct-wiring won't let you do, but the simplicity of it helps a lot. If you decide you want to move something to another switch, or combine things, it's super simple to move them.

I did add a winch solenoid to Aux4. With the SimpleAux Block, it took 5 minutes to wire up the solenoid. I just need to actually install the winch now, but everything is ready!

That's a super simple setup, but looks like a very usable management system.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Got it! Makes much more sense. I did not realize the winches drew that much current!

I also program that aux switch to then only work on Ignition. Easy to kill the battery very fast. The solenoid is technically optional, but I consider it a requirement. I don’t like live high amp power at the bumper when not in use. Fire risk with front impact.

 

[Rockabillyroy]

I've got the trigger six shooter. For the most part, it works well.

The batteries for the remote. I lost a battery in my center console, cause those things are real jumpy.

The windshield mount works well, but leaves a small gap where it hooks in the front. If you have OCD, gonna be a sticking point. But still looks both utilitarian and OEM.

The engine bay mounting tray doesn't fit well at all if your hood has a liner. I ended up putting the controller on top of the fuse box with some velcro alfa lock.

I wish the unused preinstalled connectors were removable while not in use. They're big and take up a good bit of space. I'm only using 2 at the moment. But at least you don't have to run a separate ground. I like to be able to just unplug my accessories at a single connection point.

Currently using then to power driving lights on bumper and compressor power switch. Hot powered to a AAL drl harness.

 

[Sportsbiz]

What’s working for me:

• Badge Glow Aux board for your existing under hood aux wires. This will allow you to easier install accessories and reassign when you need/want.
• A PowerTray where I’ve mounted a distribution terminal and common busbar. This allows me to wire my other accessories that aren’t using the Aux switches like my fridge, mobile ham, and WeBoost. Ground goes to the factory ground on the driver side then only one power cable goes to the battery. The PowerTray site has accessory bundles, or you can piece it together. Note that while the PowerTray was designed with a Switch Pros system in mind, that doesn’t need to be the case. I use mine for the aforementioned items and an MPPT solar controller where the Switch Pro was meant to reside.

 

[3oi]

Like the PowerTray. That's the layout and clean install look I'm after. Wonder if there are options with more environmental sealing, but that one may work well. Thanks!

 

[Eventyr_JT]

Did something like the power tray with an Eight13 Fabrication Under Hood Compressor Mount.
I have my bed power connected, working on the compressor power next, and still have room for an auxiliary switch system and winch to mount up.

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

On mine, 1 and 3 were the 40A fuses, 2 and 4 were the 15A ones. Just a small note.

 

[WILDHOBO]

On mine, 1 and 3 were the 40A fuses, 2 and 4 were the 15A ones. Just a small note.

Interesting. That’s the first time I’ve heard of that yet. Did 1 and 3 have larger wire sizes than 2 and 4? My 1 and 2 are I believe 10awg. 3 and 4 look like closer to 14awg. What year is yours? Mine is a 21.

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